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      07-09-2018, 01:14 PM   #1
Fegelein
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"Break-in" period

Age old debate, across all makes and models.
In anticipation of taking delivery "hopefully" on Friday, I intend to immediately rip her out to the Hamptons for the weekend, about a 200mile run. So can you "dive her like you stole it" or does it truly need a break in and what's manual recommend? I know the basics for tires and brakes, but what does the power train really require mileage wise, in anything..
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      07-09-2018, 01:31 PM   #2
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I was told 1,200 miles and during that time keep it "under" 5500rpm and 100mph. After which, you need to bring in for the break-in service which is a fluid swap out. There's a service reminder that's constantly on in iDrive to remind you about it.
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      07-09-2018, 03:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fegelein View Post
Age old debate, across all makes and models.
In anticipation of taking delivery "hopefully" on Friday, I intend to immediately rip her out to the Hamptons for the weekend, about a 200mile run. So can you "dive her like you stole it" or does it truly need a break in and what's manual recommend? I know the basics for tires and brakes, but what does the power train really require mileage wise, in anything..
The clutch packs in the trans, center, and rear diffs need break-in. With the fluids warm, it won't hurt (and I actually suggest) to ring it out by rolling into the throttle gently, then easing back off. I wouldn't romp on it from a dead stop though.

If you have CCB, definitely take it easy on them until 1200mi.
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      07-09-2018, 05:24 PM   #4
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I have 400 miles on the car, took it to Upstate. Had an ability to get some nice stretches. Open her up to 6K rpms and it felt GREAT! I certainly give her time to warm up but I dont wait for the break in. Again thats me
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      07-09-2018, 05:44 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by tiger4366 View Post
I was told 1,200 miles and during that time keep it "under" 5500rpm and 100mph. After which, you need to bring in for the break-in service which is a fluid swap out. There's a service reminder that's constantly on in iDrive to remind you about it.
Break in "service"?! I've never heard or experienced that before, on any make or model. That something new to this M5??
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      07-09-2018, 05:46 PM   #6
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I have 400 miles on the car, took it to Upstate. Had an ability to get some nice stretches. Open her up to 6K rpms and it felt GREAT! I certainly give her time to warm up but I dont wait for the break in. Again thats me
Where about are you in metro area and where'd you go upstate? I have some great runs laid out, since I am now based in Westchester. Great runs up to Bear Mountain, Katonah to Ridgefiled Ct., etc.
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      07-09-2018, 09:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
The clutch packs in the trans, center, and rear diffs need break-in. With the fluids warm, it won't hurt (and I actually suggest) to ring it out by rolling into the throttle gently, then easing back off. I wouldn't romp on it from a dead stop though.

If you have CCB, definitely take it easy on them until 1200mi.
Can you further explain taking it easy on the CCB? I have not heard this before.
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      07-09-2018, 09:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demon Barber View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
The clutch packs in the trans, center, and rear diffs need break-in. With the fluids warm, it won't hurt (and I actually suggest) to ring it out by rolling into the throttle gently, then easing back off. I wouldn't romp on it from a dead stop though.

If you have CCB, definitely take it easy on them until 1200mi.
Can you further explain taking it easy on the CCB? I have not heard this before.
Each disc has its own unique surface grain pattern and the pads need to be seated (bedded in) to provide consistent and uniform contact. With MCCB it's the opposite of iron. Gentle for the first 600mi and try to avoid ABS activation and from 600-1200mi, gradually increase braking force. This will significantly reduce the chances of excessive squeal and abnormal wear/operation.
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      07-09-2018, 09:59 PM   #9
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Good to know. Thank you.
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      07-09-2018, 10:11 PM   #10
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I got mine recently with euro delivery. I kept to the suggested limits. 100 mph is still faster than most US driving. Needed to do some passing on 2 lane roads. I may have gone over the rpm limit but the acceleration is phenomenal. Pressed into seat!
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      07-09-2018, 10:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Demon Barber View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
The clutch packs in the trans, center, and rear diffs need break-in. With the fluids warm, it won't hurt (and I actually suggest) to ring it out by rolling into the throttle gently, then easing back off. I wouldn't romp on it from a dead stop though.

If you have CCB, definitely take it easy on them until 1200mi.
Can you further explain taking it easy on the CCB? I have not heard this before.
Each disc has its own unique surface grain pattern and the pads need to be seated (bedded in) to provide consistent and uniform contact. With MCCB it's the opposite of iron. Gentle for the first 600mi and try to avoid ABS activation and from 600-1200mi, gradually increase braking force. This will significantly reduce the chances of excessive squeal and abnormal wear/operation.
Too late for me, I broke it in like it's iron but luckily I have no squeal.
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      07-09-2018, 10:36 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatcat View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Demon Barber View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
The clutch packs in the trans, center, and rear diffs need break-in. With the fluids warm, it won't hurt (and I actually suggest) to ring it out by rolling into the throttle gently, then easing back off. I wouldn't romp on it from a dead stop though.

If you have CCB, definitely take it easy on them until 1200mi.
Can you further explain taking it easy on the CCB? I have not heard this before.
Each disc has its own unique surface grain pattern and the pads need to be seated (bedded in) to provide consistent and uniform contact. With MCCB it's the opposite of iron. Gentle for the first 600mi and try to avoid ABS activation and from 600-1200mi, gradually increase braking force. This will significantly reduce the chances of excessive squeal and abnormal wear/operation.
Too late for me, I broke it in like it's iron but luckily I have no squeal.
Only time will tell. Speaking of time, I'm ready to collect on those bets.
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      07-10-2018, 02:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatcat View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Demon Barber View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
The clutch packs in the trans, center, and rear diffs need break-in. With the fluids warm, it won't hurt (and I actually suggest) to ring it out by rolling into the throttle gently, then easing back off. I wouldn't romp on it from a dead stop though.

If you have CCB, definitely take it easy on them until 1200mi.
Can you further explain taking it easy on the CCB? I have not heard this before.
Each disc has its own unique surface grain pattern and the pads need to be seated (bedded in) to provide consistent and uniform contact. With MCCB it's the opposite of iron. Gentle for the first 600mi and try to avoid ABS activation and from 600-1200mi, gradually increase braking force. This will significantly reduce the chances of excessive squeal and abnormal wear/operation.
Too late for me, I broke it in like it's iron but luckily I have no squeal.
Only time will tell. Speaking of time, I'm ready to collect on those bets.
Which one.
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      07-10-2018, 04:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fegelein View Post
Where about are you in metro area and where'd you go upstate? I have some great runs laid out, since I am now based in Westchester. Great runs up to Bear Mountain, Katonah to Ridgefiled Ct., etc.
I live in Staten Island. In regards to upstate , we travel to Monticello NY
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      07-10-2018, 07:24 AM   #15
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I live in Staten Island. In regards to upstate , we travel to Monticello NY
Wow, that's a haul! Tough going up there on 17, troopers are brutal!!
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      07-10-2018, 07:40 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
Each disc has its own unique surface grain pattern and the pads need to be seated (bedded in) to provide consistent and uniform contact. With MCCB it's the opposite of iron. Gentle for the first 600mi and try to avoid ABS activation and from 600-1200mi, gradually increase braking force. This will significantly reduce the chances of excessive squeal and abnormal wear/operation.
I’ve used the Hawk method and a couple of others in the past to burnish steels. What’s your favorite method for steels to transfer some pad material to the rotor ?
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      07-10-2018, 08:01 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onfireX5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
Each disc has its own unique surface grain pattern and the pads need to be seated (bedded in) to provide consistent and uniform contact. With MCCB it's the opposite of iron. Gentle for the first 600mi and try to avoid ABS activation and from 600-1200mi, gradually increase braking force. This will significantly reduce the chances of excessive squeal and abnormal wear/operation.
I've used the Hawk method and a couple of others in the past to burnish steels. What's your favorite method for steels to transfer some pad material to the rotor ?
I'll typically start with a moderate pressure 120 - 40 to burn off any pad contamination and pad deposits, do 3 - 5 mins of cooling at 30 - 40, followed by 3 threshold 150 - 20 with 1 min between, followed by 10 mins of cooling at 30 - 40.

Obviously this needs to be conducted in a controlled location.
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      07-10-2018, 08:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
I'll typically start with a moderate pressure 120 - 40 to burn off any pad contamination and pad deposits, do 3 - 5 mins of cooling at 30 - 40, followed by 3 threshold 150 - 20 with 1 min between, followed by 10 mins of cooling at 30 - 40.

Obviously this needs to be conducted in a controlled location.
Sounds good. Thanks.
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      07-10-2018, 10:27 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onfireX5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
I'll typically start with a moderate pressure 120 - 40 to burn off any pad contamination and pad deposits, do 3 - 5 mins of cooling at 30 - 40, followed by 3 threshold 150 - 20 with 1 min between, followed by 10 mins of cooling at 30 - 40.

Obviously this needs to be conducted in a controlled location.
Sounds good. Thanks.
And if you want to have consistently for the last 3, use the parking brake switch. Hold it in the up position and the car will threshold brake until released.
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      07-10-2018, 11:25 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
And if you want to have consistently for the last 3, use the parking brake switch. Hold it in the up position and the car will threshold brake until released.
Wow I never knew that... You're saying that little parking brake switch can be lifted up while driving and it will apply maximum braking pressure until it's released? I've always been too chicken to pull it while moving (in a controlled environment of course).
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      07-10-2018, 11:41 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by windtendo View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemetier View Post
And if you want to have consistently for the last 3, use the parking brake switch. Hold it in the up position and the car will threshold brake until released.
Wow I never knew that... You're saying that little parking brake switch can be lifted up while driving and it will apply maximum braking pressure until it's released? I've always been too chicken to pull it while moving (in a controlled environment of course).
That's correct, as long as the speed doesn't dip below 5mph.

I want to add a caveat warning now since this thread will inevitably be resurrected in the future.

*When Active Driving Assistant Plus is replaced by or supplemented with Active Driving Assistant Pro, pulling the parking brake while driving activates Emergency Stop Assist. This Autonomous Driving Aid activates the Emergency Flashers and all interior lights, then will either stop the car within its lane, steer the car to a clearer lane closer to the shoulder and come to a stop, or if conditions allow, steer the car onto the shoulder clear of traffic and stop. The eCall system will then automatically initiate a call once the car has come to a stop.
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      07-19-2018, 09:05 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felixleasing View Post
I have 400 miles on the car, took it to Upstate. Had an ability to get some nice stretches. Open her up to 6K rpms and it felt GREAT! I certainly give her time to warm up but I dont wait for the break in. Again thats me
I did same! lol Took her up the Taconic, through all the twisties as well (through that park section) and absolutely was floored by the performance!! I put over 100 miles on her the first day and this weekend ripping her out to the Hamptons vacation home. That will put another 400miles on her and next weekend in Pocono for NASCAR. I think within 2 weeks, i'll have 1k on the clock. lol I'm going to drive the wheels off this car, it's such an incredible experience. Worth every cent of the lease!
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