[Doesha]

so recently I was getting the better icon indicating my battery was going. Also I scan my car frequently with INPA to get codes. only comes I get are 2DED for a battery drain of 1000ma or more, and my airbag icons. Here and there it would pop up. Then Christmas morning, my OFHG took and leaked oil everywhere when I went to go start it. I mean all under the intake manifold. Replaced the gasket, put new oil and filter worked just fine. cleaned dit a up ran good.

I wake up this morning drove maybe 10 miles and put gas halfway there. parked it for a good 5 to 6 hours and came out to leave and it wouldn't start. Battery icon came on after 3 or 4 tries. So was like ok went and got an amg duralast 70ah gel and not the acid. Put it in, hooked up the computer and went through INPA and registered battery. almost identical battery I pulled out spec wise. what was in it was an inter state. Still won't turn on.

I tried a few times and boom I get the yellow steering wheel lock for 5seconds and then it's gone. I put key back in turns accessories on everything works good, but won't start. Brake pedal is really hard but I can push it a little.

so I hooked inpa up, no codes but airbags. so I clear codes. I went into ncs expert and coded FRM and CAS to default and tried to start again nope. so I know it's nothing to do with coding. no codes are thrown, battery replaced. I can move my tires with the wheel, I hear the wheel disengage. I turn it over, hear one or 2 clicks but no start

[dwashy]

Open the hood, look at the serpentine belt, and see if it is bound around the crankshaft not allowing it to start. happened to me after oil leaked out of oil filter seal, not the housing itself. This happens to some people and the belt is sucked entirely into the crank seal..

[nsjames]

sound like the starter failed.

check for voltage at the jump start points.

[Doesha]

Originally Posted by dwashy

Open the hood, look at the serpentine belt, and see if it is bound around the crankshaft not allowing it to start. happened to me after oil leaked out of oil filter seal, not the housing itself. This happens to some people and the belt is sucked entirely into the crank seal..

that checked out fine. started checking voltages.

[Doesha]

Originally Posted by nsjames

sound like the starter failed.

check for voltage at the jump start points.

I pull the 30g relay car acts funny windshield wipers etc. doesn't get too hot. that is what I am checking next. I was thinking starter also

[Doesha]

So I haven't touched the car for about 6 days. I've been busy, and I go to unlock the car and no power period. Brand new battery and it is completely dead. Something is drawing power and I don't know what it is. I have no aftermarket electronics installed, not even a us charger. I'm just curious what is causing the power drain.

Going to take battery back and have them recharge it or replace it, then start checking voltages. I'm thinking the car is not going to sleep, but I'm not sure what would prevent that as the key was litterally 100+ feet away for the 6 days. So that proved my theory wrong about sleeping in my apartment right above where I park my car.

[Doesha]

Took a further look at everything since there is light out. The power distribution box checks out after I took the cover off. I'm waiting on the battery to get recharged so I can test voltage again.

Dropped the glovebox completely and pulled 90 percent of the fuses and they all look good. The main positive that goes to the fuse box looks good. No melted plastic or anything. when I pulled the KI 30g or terminal 30g relay the car went haywire previously. windshield wipers lights flashing etc. when I put it back, everything is normal again. so that leads me to believe that relay is good.

I downloaded and installed Rheingold ISTA+ last night and will try to realign CAS with DME to see if there is an issue with that. I know CAS FRM etc are all working, because I was able to communicate with INPA and default code with NCS.

when I get battery I will check positive under hood for correct voltage and see what I get.

Stll leaning towards starter at this point.

Anything else I am missing? Any input would be great.

[Doesha]

Originally Posted by neilj35

Have you checked if there is power to the starter solenoid activation wire when trying to crank the engine? You will need somebody to try and start it while you put a test probe on the starter solenoid activation terminal

The only thing have not done. Like litterally. So the first battery i bought was a defective one and switched it out through warranty.
I have done the following:

New Battery
Registered Battery with ISTA and set correct ah using NCS Expert.
Checked all fuses behind GloveBox
Tested voltage past BST
Tested voltage under hood on
Reset CAS with ISTA
Reset ELV Counter using Tool32 (Didn't really need to do this)
Coded FRM and CAS to Default with NCS Expert
Re-Aligned DME with CAS in ISTA
Cleared Fault Errors and Error Memory
Tested Start/Stop Function in ISTA which was good but Teriminal 50

And after all that she still wont start. When I push the button I hear a spinning noise for about 5 seconds or so then stops. Really thinking the starter gave out randomly. Only way to know is to pull starter and test. Which I dont want to really do as I am not looking forward to removing the intake manifold, then finding out if my big Disa is flapping around, then find out that I accident cracked a PCV hose. Just another can of worms.

These are the main codes I'm getting even after r
clearing them, they will pop right back up.
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[Doesha]

Got a few things cleared up and it is definitely the Starter. now just to eliminate these other things.

[Doesha]

Finally completed everything. I didn't pull the intake out completely. It is already a pain with all the lines and hoses. Took me about 4 hour in total and I ended up finishing it in the pouring rain (I was soaked). 30 to 45 minutes of it was cleaning the block underneath the manifold from a previous OFHG leak. I initially wanted to pull the whole manifold and replace the CCV hoses and separator, but when I got fully into it, the hoses looked almost brand new and had no signs of oil leaking etc from them or the separator. I am a bigger guy 6' and 245 lbs so it was a bit tougher to get to the rear bolt on the starter but was not impossible. I was worried about breaking those CCV hoses, from everything everyone said but didn't break any of those. I did manage to break the break booster vacuum like under the manifold which is palstic. Luckily BMW wasn't too far away and had it in stock for about $6.00 more than online.

After all as done, she fired right up. it's been about 2 weeks since she was running, and I did clear everything including adaptions and reset CAS, so idle was pretty rough the entire 10 mins or so she idled. I recoded FRM and CAS and cleared codes in INPA again. after that I reset the throttle with the gas pedal option and drove. Check Engine Light came on for intake air sensor and MAF. I tried to clear again in INPA but they wouldn't go. So I tried ISTA and that worked like a charm. She still idles slightly rough, but no errors have popped up. I only drove 15 miles or so, but I know that's not enough. it's been pouring rain so not really trying to drive more until it stops.

Too me this was about a 6 out of 10 on difficulty. it is more time consuming then anything. radiator and hoses took me longer to do then the starter. The only things that is randomly not working is my radio. I have logic 7 and am getting three codes for it. FFF2, 0195, and 0063. Most people are going to say the Amp is bad, but I really dont think so. I. haven't checked yet, but I did switch a fuse the other day from one area to another and don't know if that's my issue