[Kaceyjames]

Car shaking upon starting - right after I start my car once in awhile more often lately the car shakes like as if it was going to stall. I've read tons of posts claiming this is somewhat normal behavior, however mine doesn't really do it when's it's cold. For instance this morning after sitting all night roughly 45 degrees. No issues. Then after. 35 minute drive to work , car sat for about an hour and half started the car up to run out and it shook pretty bad. It use to do this when I first bought the car but then stopped for months. Now it's back - I usually use shell gas but because of this switched to mobile a few times. But no difference maybe worse

Any input ideas - I also saw that there's some recalls for fuel pump possibly however the cars been into bmw a few time and they never mentioned it to me.

Also on top of that don't know if it's normal or related but between all the cars I've Owned.

The Rpms at idle after start up seem torqued up high,
when I put the car in drive with my foot on the brake the rear goes down into a dig and wants to move pretty fast once I remove the brake...

Thanks

[COKen]

This could be many things. Your best approach would be to pull the codes to find out what is going on. Many auto parts stores will pull them for free.

[Kaceyjames]

Originally Posted by COKen

This could be many things. Your best approach would be to pull the codes to find out what is going on. Many auto parts stores will pull them for free.

Can you pull codes with bootmod3? ( just flashed stage 1 yesterday) nothing to do with shake but can I use there program ?

[Zanity]

I know you can pull all codes with BimmerLink, that's what I do

[Kaceyjames]

Originally Posted by Zanity

I know you can pull all codes with BimmerLink, that's what I do

Here's the codes - probably some around from my flash yesterday

[COKen]

Does the tool you are using have a table of codes that will give you more information? BMW codes I have seen usually come up starting with a "P". I tried to Google your codes and nothing came up.

One thing you can do to narrow it down is to clear the codes and then see which one comes back.

[pshovest]

Leaky fuel injector(s)

[Kaceyjames]

Originally Posted by pshovest

Leaky fuel injector(s)

Wouldn't that be apparent mostly on cold start especially after sitting over night.

I'm under warranty but I'm not sure what steps to take as I have a deductible and bmw will want diag fees there's no codes now either after clearing them

[perryo91]

Mines doing that a little bit too, I've kinda chocked it up to normal behavior until I get a code, It's weird behavior because it runs perfectly smooth throughout the drive, it's only cold starts for me. I also have cold start disabled.

[donkey]

Check your battery

[jcordier]

Originally Posted by Kaceyjames

Can you pull codes with bootmod3? ( just flashed stage 1 yesterday) nothing to do with shake but can I use there program ?

I just flashed my 13' n55 yesterday with bootmod3 with the mppk tune because I haven't replaced the charge pipe yet. I noticed today that I drove a little bit, and about an hour later when I started the vehicle. It idled rough also. I wonder if this has to do with us flashing our cars, and it'll go back to normal. Maybe it's just not used to extra boost. So it's calibrating itself or something. I'll keep you posted with what my car ends up doing within the next few days.

[pshovest]

^ This. 2 codes suggest a battery charge problem. Put a 10 amp AGM charger on your battery overnight. You are correct, leaky fuel injectors usually show up on cold starts not hot starts.

[Kaceyjames]

Originally Posted by pshovest

^ This. 2 codes suggest a battery charge problem. Put a 10 amp AGM charger on your battery overnight. You are correct, leaky fuel injectors usually show up on cold starts not hot starts.

It's done this intermittently since I bought the car - I didn't have a battery charger hooked up during flash (highly recommended) and that can cause battery codes to come up -
I also use a owl car cam which draws power 24/7 unless u let it sit for more then 48-72 hours it has a self shut off aswell. Again Could have somthing to do with battery

I will leave the charger on tonight for the hell of it


Re scan the car today after clearing those codes after a normal day of driving the codes that returned were 3 of the 5 original

Cd0487 (gateway fem_gw)
Synchronization failed

Climate control (ihka3)
801237
Reduction of heat output to rear window

Transmission control (egs)
Cf1541 no description avail.


Thanks again for the help and reply's

[Kaceyjames]

Originally Posted by jcordier

I just flashed my 13' n55 yesterday with bootmod3 with the mppk tune because I haven't replaced the charge pipe yet. I noticed today that I drove a little bit, and about an hour later when I started the vehicle. It idled rough also. I wonder if this has to do with us flashing our cars, and it'll go back to normal. Maybe it's just not used to extra boost. So it's calibrating itself or something. I'll keep you posted with what my car ends up doing within the next few days.

Could be in your case, hopefully.

However mine was doing this when I first bought the car 10k miles ago And stopped for months and has now returned (previous to flash)

The bm3 flash however I must say makes the car feel incredibly smooth feels better than before I couldn't be happier with it
I flashed staged 1 due to the same reason but will be installing charge pipe and intercooler ASAP.

[perryo91]

So how would we find out if it was leaky injectors or the battery? Doubt it's battery as the length of my cranks are extremely short.

[Kaceyjames]

Originally Posted by perryo91

So how would we find out if it was leaky injectors or the battery? Doubt it's battery as the length of my cranks are extremely short.

I've heard bad gas, vacuum leaks, fuel pumps leaky injectors trying to a fuel system cleaner wouldn't hurt such as BG 44.


It's actually getting to be embarrassing because my car is so loud that you actually hear it the "pulsing" for about 5 seconds then its completely smooth ( va voom, va voom, va voom, then stops lol- best way I can describe it via text.

but i actually don't think it's making the rpms fluctuate if I watch the needle although it definitely sounds like the needle would be going up and down :

[perryo91]

Exactly, mine makes the same sound and since I'm decatted, no resonator, and MPE... it's pretty noticeable. Same with the tachy... doesn't look like it's moving but I can sure hear it. I think I might try a fuel system cleaner too I'll just get a Lucas Oil one I think I've used that in other cars.

Originally Posted by Kaceyjames

I've heard bad gas, vacuum leaks, fuel pumps leaky injectors trying to a fuel system cleaner wouldn't hurt such as BG 44.


It's actually getting to be embarrassing because my car is so loud that you actually hear it the "pulsing" for about 5 seconds then its completely smooth ( va voom, va voom, va voom, then stops lol- best way I can describe it via text.

but i actually don't think it's making the rpms fluctuate if I watch the needle although it definitely sounds like the needle would be going up and down :

[jimbobiggens]

https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

This is the typical format of OBD trouble codes.

[Kaceyjames]

Originally Posted by jimbobiggens

https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

This is the typical format of OBD trouble codes.

Strange I mean BM3 is pretty popular. I'll download bimmercode I guess

[bdragon46]

Could also try cleaning the MAF sensor

[Logicoeur]

Use Torque pro or the logging in BM3 to monitor the afr, fuel trim, etc to see if anything weird is occurring when it happens.

[COKen]

Originally Posted by bdragon46

Could also try cleaning the MAF sensor

Most recommendations I see indicate that it is not a good idea to clean the MAF. They say it usually creates more issues than it fixes.