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      04-29-2019, 01:07 PM   #1
XxThe_RemedyXx
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VRSF Charge Pipe

Hey guys -

While doing some work on my car over the weekend I noticed something off about my charge pipe. In all the videos I've seen the throttle body end of the charge pipe is usually installed with raised nub of the C clip facing up. Mine seems to be rotated facing the cabin. It also looks like the pipe isn't snugged up to the throttle body.

My car has been making this weird high pitched squeal under WOT and I'm wondering if this is the source and possibly a boost leak. What do you guys think?
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      04-29-2019, 01:31 PM   #2
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mine looks exactly like that (the slight gap) and my c-clip is in the notch on the throttle body holding it in place. I've tried to push the CP on further but then the c-clip would not align with the groove in the TB.

i would think a boost leak would throw a code though, no?
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      04-29-2019, 01:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdeerfield View Post
mine looks exactly like that (the slight gap) and my c-clip is in the notch on the throttle body holding it in place. I've tried to push the CP on further but then the c-clip would not align with the groove in the TB.

i would think a boost leak would throw a code though, no?
Thanks bud. I don't think a boost leak would throw a code honestly but I may be wrong. At the moment I have no codes, only the noise at WOT. You can hear it in this clip...

https://soundcloud.com/user-183363342/n55sound/s-1C1Bk
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      04-29-2019, 01:37 PM   #4
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Mine looks exactly like this too, I found that at first it was incredibly hard to get the CP to get near the TB lip or even on the throttle body. I removed and reinstalled it by moving the upper section further into the silicon coupler. This allowed the CP to have less of a kink towards the cabin and fit pretty close to flush. I doubt the noise would come from that part, it usually seems to be the directional O ring at the TB to IC connection being the wrong way (ask me how I know) or the coupler isn't tight enough.
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      04-29-2019, 01:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khj24 View Post
Mine looks exactly like this too, I found that at first it was incredibly hard to get the CP to get near the TB lip or even on the throttle body. I removed and reinstalled it by moving the upper section further into the silicon coupler. This allowed the CP to have less of a kink towards the cabin and fit pretty close to flush. I doubt the noise would come from that part, it usually seems to be the directional O ring at the TB to IC connection being the wrong way (ask me how I know) or the coupler isn't tight enough.
Does the sound I linked sound similar to the sound you've heard? Really dreading taking this thing apart
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      04-29-2019, 01:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx View Post
Does the sound I linked sound similar to the sound you've heard? Really dreading taking this thing apart
Not quite, this is more consistent and a much different pitch. Mine was more of an increasing whoosh noise with a very audible flutter after letting off from WOT that included a noticeable loss of power. I'm thinking yours might be that silicon coupler isn't tight enough, since its high pitched it makes me think its a very small leak under high pressure. I'm sure others can chime in with their experiences of a leak in that area as I do recall seeing a few instances around here. The good thing with that one is you shouldn't have to remove anything other than the undertray.
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      04-29-2019, 01:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khj24 View Post
Not quite, this is more consistent and a much different pitch. Mine was more of an increasing whoosh noise with a very audible flutter after letting off from WOT that included a noticeable loss of power. I'm thinking yours might be that silicon coupler isn't tight enough, since its high pitched it makes me think its a very small leak under high pressure. I'm sure others can chime in with their experiences of a leak in that area as I do recall seeing a few instances around here. The good thing with that one is you shouldn't have to remove anything other than the undertray.
I took a look under the car after removing the under tray and it looks like I have a brace running along where the access area to the charge pipe is. I'm xDrive but I can't even see the damn coupler to attempt to tighten/reorient it.
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      04-29-2019, 02:28 PM   #8
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the sound that a boost leak

double check the clamps connecting the 2 pc of the chargepipe( it may have loosened up)
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      04-29-2019, 02:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx View Post
I took a look under the car after removing the under tray and it looks like I have a brace running along where the access area to the charge pipe is. I'm xDrive but I can't even see the damn coupler to attempt to tighten/reorient it.
Completely glossed over that, xDrive is a major PITA for clearance. I see that you're on BM3, you can run a log to see how bad your boost leak is if you have some baselines.
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      04-29-2019, 02:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khj24 View Post
Completely glossed over that, xDrive is a major PITA for clearance. I see that you're on BM3, you can run a log to see how bad your boost leak is if you have some baselines.
Here is my latest 3rd gear pull... The car seems to pull strong.

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5ca741a2c090c637a0ba2140
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      04-29-2019, 02:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khj24 View Post
Completely glossed over that, xDrive is a major PITA for clearance. I see that you're on BM3, you can run a log to see how bad your boost leak is if you have some baselines.
Yep... I think I have to drop my IC to get a look at the damn thing.
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      04-29-2019, 03:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx View Post
Here is my latest 3rd gear pull... The car seems to pull strong.

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5ca741a2c090c637a0ba2140
*not a log expert* But its probably just the smallest of leaks, your actual is close to your target and I am not sure any stage 2 N55's are much above 16 PSI.

I know people also have issues with the meth bung, but again that's usually a large leak and I don't think those symptoms are represented here.

Can you reach the top hose clamp from engine bay? If that one is easier it might be worth just trying that one first. FYI when I was first tracking my boost leak I tightened my clamps down to a point where they wont tighten anymore.
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      04-29-2019, 03:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khj24 View Post
*not a log expert* But its probably just the smallest of leaks, your actual is close to your target and I am not sure any stage 2 N55's are much above 16 PSI.

I know people also have issues with the meth bung, but again that's usually a large leak and I don't think those symptoms are represented here.

Can you reach the top hose clamp from engine bay? If that one is easier it might be worth just trying that one first. FYI when I was first tracking my boost leak I tightened my clamps down to a point where they wont tighten anymore.
I'll try tonight but from the way it was installed I can't even see the coupler or clamps from the top... I made sure the bung was tight since it was easier to reach. Thanks for the tips bud.
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      04-29-2019, 07:08 PM   #14
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your best bet is to go under remove the underpanel, and would be right there by the axle
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      04-29-2019, 09:29 PM   #15
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If you pull the top away from the engine, like you're trying to separate it, does it budge?
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      04-29-2019, 11:43 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx View Post
Here is my latest 3rd gear pull... The car seems to pull strong.

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5ca741a2c090c637a0ba2140
Can't comment on the sound, but I have the same charge pipe and it's positioned identically to the photos you uploaded.

I also will tell you I HIGHLY doubt you have a boost leak. You car is having no trouble hitting/holding boost, at least in that one log. Slight variations +/- 1-2 psi are totally normal.
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      04-29-2019, 11:58 PM   #17
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I had a whistling noise similar that ended up being a boost leak...

The culprit was not actually the TB to CP connection, but actually one of the CP to rubber coupler connections. The worm gear had worked itself loose and had come off the rubber onto the metal (no longer sealing).

Was probably never tight to begin with but didnt become a problem for thousands of miles.

Just a thought.
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