[mazlal]

Hi, I'm new to this site so not sure if i'm asking in the right category , please let me know if I'm doing something wrong, thanks.

So here goes, my 2010 328i (e93) had been stolen and when I got it back it doesn't engage into D from P, its like as if its in N. However if I shift from R to D it will drive,

It was recovered in a city 100 miles away, I drove it back.

More info:

1. it's jerks when I shift into gear but drives

2. making a clicking sound from what appears to be the bottom of the car

3. has yellow foot on the brake symbol on dash

4. slows down going uphill

5. OBD2 reader can't read any codes and says lost connection, it only reads U0100


I decided to check the transmission fluid and it drained 4 quarts, I opened the pan to have a look around and there were no metal shavings anywhere. The bottom of the pan and the filter had a thick film of dirt on them both.

I would really appreciate any advice you guys have as I'm new around here and don't know many people , I will gladly answer any questions you may have. Thank you and hope to hear from you guys soon.

[gamesfrager]

What did you use to read fault codes?
If it's one of those $10 bluetooth adapters and the torque app, then you need a proper setup to read fault codes.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Sometimes you just gotta shove her in the R before she takes the D.

[e90yyc]

Insurance?

Worth pulling the codes nonetheless...

[mazlal]

no insurance , got someone coming to pull the codes later , ill put the pics up of what I did or checked

it was a Bosch obd2 reader $115 from orileys and $50 from harbor frieght both couldn't read them, I had a carly but it was on the car when it got stolen


and its not looking to good "welcome to nba jam" she got me bent over at the moment.

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by mazlal

no insurance , got someone coming to pull the codes later , ill put the pics up of what I did or checked

it was a Bosch obd2 reader $115 from orileys and $50 from harbor frieght both couldn't read them, I had a carly but it was on the car when it got stolen


and its not looking to good "welcome to nba jam" she got me bent over at the moment.

Don't actually go digging in the transmission yet but I suspect it might be one or more of the mechatronic solenoids. For about $200 you get a whole set for all the gears. Installation isn't too hard but you do need to pull the pan and refill with oil.

[mazlal]

Im changing the filter... right now , another thing.. I'm pretty sure the revs needle wasn't working when I drove it back...

[delmarco]

These are all symptoms (with the exception of #5) of the Torque Clutch Converter either going bad or slipping.

I had this on my 2001 330i - but the only difference is it set of the silly check engine lamp as well.

not sure what the thieves did to disable your OBD port.
What was the situation surrounding the finding of the car? Did you have LoJack or filed a police report and they found it?

Also how was the car stolen? BMWs are pretty much disabled for driving without a key so for them to start and drive it off without a key would already mean when you find your car most of the electronics would be fried or damaged.

Originally Posted by mazlal

b

1. it's jerks when I shift into gear but drives

2. making a clicking sound from what appears to be the bottom of the car

3. has yellow foot on the brake symbol on dash

4. slows down going uphill

5. OBD2 reader can't read any codes and says lost connection, it only reads U0100

[delmarco]

Originally Posted by mazlal

Im changing the filter... right now , another thing.. I'm pretty sure the revs needle wasn't working when I drove it back...

Yeah if your car was successfully stolen and driven off a 100 miles away without the key (to start and drive it) then whatever your thieves used to make the car mobile probably fried the electronics.

Why do you think it was stolen and driven 100 miles away? was it for parts? or do you think they were trying to sell the entire car and ship it to Africa or Eastern Europe? or was it taken for a simple joyride?

[mazlal]

I had dropped the key, somebody found it so that's how it was stolen. Nothing changed with the filter, oil refill and topping up with new oil. The oil had red tint and no burnt smell or no metal shavings. managed to get some codes not all were working.

Heres the codes it did read:

- CF1C gear selector switch

- 2FA3 no coding

- 2FA4 no data recovery

- 2DE4 left fuel sensor

- 2DE5 right fuel sensor

- 2DDO no message

-00,01,57,8e not sure

-00,01 CE. D4 not found

So if it is the torque converter, is there a temporary fix like Lucas oil treatment or something else? Also how big of a job is it. Finally how much we looking at for a torque converter
I really appreciate the help n guidance

[gbalthrop]

If you have Comprehensive Coverage (NOT Collision) on your Auto Insurance Policy, that should cover any damage to vehicle resulting from theft, and your negligence in "dropping the key" is NOT an issue in the claim. ANYONE who owns a vehicle worth > $10K should have comprehensive, as you can't control whether it gets stolen, a tree falls on it, etc. It is much cheaper than Collision Coverage (you CAN control how you drive ;-)

Given that your report of this issue is your FIRST post on this forum, I have to say the question of "stealor" vs. "stealee" occurs to me, and I'm NOT really into "aiding & abetting" (no offense IF you are the latter, which I presume you ARE).

Based upon your description of the performance fault, and the fault codes you posted, you do NOT have a torque converter fault or anything else that suggests throwing parts at it. ALL of the Fault Codes you list (Except 578E described below) are COMMUNICATION FAULTS, or faults with DME communication with other modules. Those include DME communication with: EKP (CED4), Transmission (CF1C), Instrument Cluster (2DD0), and Fuel Level Sensor signals, L&R (2DE4 & 2DE5).

You also have Faults for "No Coding" & "Incorrect Data Record" (2FA3 & 2FA4), which could mean most anything. WHO read those codes, and with WHAT software or scan tool?

I would advise having a shop with INPA or ISTA test connection with the DME (Engine Control Module), EKP (Fuel Pump Module), KOMBI (Instrument Cluster) and EGS (Transmission), and try to diagnose the cause of the Communication Faults between those modules. NO ONE who understands the BUS system that connects those modules and allows communication between them would try to GUESS what was causing the problem. Also, IF there IS in fact a "Coding" or "Data Record" issue in the DME, it would require someone above my pay-grade to correctly identify the cause of those two codes.

I would ALSO look for any clues that someone tampered with or disassembled anything around the (1) OBD II Socket, (2) Remote Key Insert Compartment, (3) E-box under the hood where the DME is located, (4) Anything unusual about the way the Shift Lever Lock works/does NOT work, or (5) Anything else in the Dash area. The cause of the issue could be something as simple as a loose wire or connector, but trying to identify such a cause requires knowledge of BMW test software and how to find/read circuit diagrams in TIS.

The ONLY other type of Fault Code you list (578E) is for Transmission Oil Wear Fault, and that suggests your car has more than 100,000 miles on the GM6 transmission. Also if you only drained 4 quarts of fluid from the transmission, including what was in the pan when you removed it, then it was quite low (2 quarts or more). If that "4 quart" figure does NOT include pan contents, then probably OK. I trust you followed the TIS procedure for Transmission Fluid Level (top-up) by running the engine to fill last quart or 2, and inserted fill plug with engine still running?

Please let us know what you find,
George

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by mazlal

...is there a temporary fix like Lucas oil treatment or something else?

Don’t do it.

Once you’re certain what the issue is, it might be possible to find a temp fix that won’t cause you more grief down the line. Best of luck.