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      01-27-2020, 09:26 AM   #1
kevinrx8
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Seized Engine N52

What's up everyone. I have a E90 330i with about 168k miles. Babied since I bought it with 41k miles. I haven't driven the car very much recently but this weekend I went for a drive to address some fault codes that came up and heard a grinding noise coming from the bottom (Like around the flywheel) and the car dies. I get it towed to the Indy shop I always go to. I get the call the next morning telling me the engine is seized. Dead! He tried to turn it over manually and nothing. Oil level was where it was suppose to be so he thinks that is strange. I searched around and found some possibilities. The car when I would start it would smell a bit like fuel. Not sure if it was from sitting most of the time or what. I did have some check engine lights recently which I was going to address the day I took the car out. Here are the codes that came up. Is it possible that I spun a rod? Is it worth fixing or should I just part it out and have some peace of mind. I need to start driving it more now to pick up my kid and don't need something like this happening. Let me know. I love this car. It was so perfect.
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      01-27-2020, 05:30 PM   #2
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Something was making some noise with all those knock sensors. Sadly, the underlying cause likely won’t matter much.
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      01-27-2020, 05:33 PM   #3
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Thats super weird. I've seen stuff like this be a stuck ac compressor or alternator and such but idk if the shop checked that. A used n52 is fairly cheap so i would consider a swap and try to haggle for a bit of a break in labor.
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      01-28-2020, 03:06 AM   #4
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Quote:
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Thats super weird. I've seen stuff like this be a stuck ac compressor or alternator and such but idk if the shop checked that. A used n52 is fairly cheap so i would consider a swap and try to haggle for a bit of a break in labor.
Indeed... picked up one on eBay for 700 bucks (before shipping) on a 64k Mile engine
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      01-28-2020, 07:01 AM   #5
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I checked car-part.com but they were pretty high on the mileage. Did not even think about eBay to be honest. I am going to check have the mechanic to check the oil as well to see if there are any shavings. At least for some explanation. If there are no shavings, is the engine even really seized?

Thanks for the responses so far.
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      01-28-2020, 07:14 AM   #6
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Is this an auto or manual? If there was grinding from the flywheel area, I would make sure it isn't the transmission that caused the problem. I've seen this happen where the transmission fails catastrophically and locks up which won't allow the engine to turn.
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      01-28-2020, 07:25 AM   #7
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It's a manual.

When looking for an engine, does the engine have to be from a manual car as well?
Also, I know the N52 found in the none 330i isnt as strong as the one in the 330i, will swapping out the intake manifold from my car be enough? Or does the replacement engine have to be tuned for the different manifold? Sorry if this doesnt make sense.
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      01-28-2020, 08:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinrx8 View Post
It's a manual.

When looking for an engine, does the engine have to be from a manual car as well?
Also, I know the N52 found in the none 330i isnt as strong as the one in the 330i, will swapping out the intake manifold from my car be enough? Or does the replacement engine have to be tuned for the different manifold? Sorry if this doesnt make sense.
Any N52 will work for your 330i. Even an 06 E90 325i motor is the same long block with a different intake. For later motors just swap valve cover and intake. The ECU is external of the motor and not swapped with the motor.

But don't give up on the old motor yet. Checking the oil filter for metal is a good idea. You can pull the starter to inspect the clutch and bell housing area. A nasty clutch failure could lock the clutch/flywheel to the bell housing but that is rare. Putting the car in 6th gear and rocking it forward and back could make some noise that would help troubleshoot.

Last edited by smass; 01-28-2020 at 01:53 PM..
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      01-28-2020, 01:04 PM   #9
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I am going to try that this weekend and see what I see/hear.

Shop told me the swap would be $1300-$1500 for the labor alone. Not sure if that is a lot or not. So I just have that figure on the back of my mind.

If anyone else has any input, please share.
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      01-28-2020, 02:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinrx8 View Post
I am going to try that this weekend and see what I see/hear.

Shop told me the swap would be $1300-$1500 for the labor alone. Not sure if that is a lot or not. So I just have that figure on the back of my mind.

If anyone else has any input, please share.
Does not seem high at all but I have never paid for labor on a engine swap
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      01-28-2020, 07:51 PM   #11
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I have had a seized alternator stop an engine at idle and then prevent the starter from turning it.
remove the drive belt and see if it turns.

if it does come to replacement motors I would try and stay post 09 for the not ticky lifters.
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      01-29-2020, 10:40 AM   #12
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Went to the shop last night and he showed me how the engine was not cranking. Looked at the oil and no metal shavings. He said he was going to pull the transmission back a bit and check the clutch and flywheel to see anything. I will have him check the belt as well and try that.
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      01-29-2020, 11:30 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
I have had a seized alternator stop an engine at idle and then prevent the starter from turning it.
remove the drive belt and see if it turns.

if it does come to replacement motors I would try and stay post 09 for the not ticky lifters.
Some 2008 also got the revised parts, so no ticky lifters.

The ''swap'' itself is about a 10-15 hours job when you got the right tools, and a helper for some critical steps.

1300-1500$ labour seems right,
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      01-29-2020, 11:57 AM   #14
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Hope they can save your current motor. If not, I'd do the swap for sure
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      01-29-2020, 12:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE. View Post
Some 2008 also got the revised parts, so no ticky lifters.

The ''swap'' itself is about a 10-15 hours job when you got the right tools, and a helper for some critical steps.

1300-1500$ labour seems right,
The cylinder head revision was 11/08 I believe.
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      01-29-2020, 03:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE. View Post
Some 2008 also got the revised parts, so no ticky lifters.

The ''swap'' itself is about a 10-15 hours job when you got the right tools, and a helper for some critical steps.

1300-1500$ labour seems right,
yeah, but some wrecker just knows it came from a MY whatever.

they're not checking build dates at the scrapyard.
I'd imagine that if it comes from a post 09 MY car it probably has the updated head.
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      01-29-2020, 04:30 PM   #17
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I have an EARLY production 330i. The swap has proven to be problematic with how some wiring has changed between then and the modern n52 3ers. Just make sure you do your research before jumping into this. My DME module won't hook up directly to the wiring harness from the newer n52 I got from a z4 3.0si. In turn, I have to use my old metal valve cover and the older crankcase ventilation system and not utilize the newer VC for that reason. I think they said 6 plugs on the engine itself and a plethora more stemming from the chassis. :

I want the newer stuff in the mix so I'm down for the wait time. I am unsure of your stance on time...
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      01-30-2020, 02:10 PM   #18
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So it turns out that the flywheel shattered which caused the clutch to shatter as well. With the two shattering some of the debris got caught in a gear which caused to lock the motor. Motor is good as far as we know. We will be replacing the clutch, the flywheel, and even the starter. Seems like that caused damage to the starter.

I replaced the starter in the summer time by myself, and hoping I didn't make a mistake.

I will keep you guys updated. Still need to address those codes. Thanks everyone for helping so far.
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      01-30-2020, 02:32 PM   #19
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Glad you figured it out. You may want to check your heater hoses under the air filter box. They can get weak from oil leaks. And also consider changing the crankcase breather hose that goes from the back of the valve cover to the oil separator. If original, it is probably broken inside the foam covering. All of this is much easier to change with the cowl and intake out of the way.
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      01-30-2020, 10:19 PM   #20
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Might behoove you to address the CCV if you haven't already. Since you're under the car anyway..
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      01-31-2020, 07:09 AM   #21
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Awesome on the issue not being the engine.
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      01-31-2020, 08:52 AM   #22
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Awesome on the issue not being the engine.
CTinline-six for the win! You called it correctly my man.
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