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      02-06-2020, 05:00 PM   #1
Peter5498
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Serpentine Belt Tensioner T60

Story is that I’m on a military installation and the place where we can work on our cars doesn’t have a T60, but they have a T55 for the tensioner. I’ve asked a few buddies if they have one but I’m trying to make good use of my time. AutoZone is a possibility, but a little bit out there. Any alternatives of the T60 just to take that belt off? Would the T55 socket work? Not denying that this is a dumb thread, but again I’m trying to get this done ASAP so I can drive.

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      02-06-2020, 05:21 PM   #2
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The T55 is probably fine, it's not a tremendous amount of torque.
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      02-06-2020, 05:22 PM   #3
gbalthrop
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T-55 SHOULD work if you do NOT have the "correct" T-60. If you're careful, and on the lookout for any sign of "stripping" the tensioner opening the T-55, though a bit loose, should be able to safely turn it.

If you are changing the Serpentine belt on a 2007 N54, I can't help but ask:
1) Why?
2) Are you aware of the Left Motor Mount issue that causes pulley to contact frame?
3) Has the Tensioner ever been changed (along with Alternator idler)?

Please let us know what you find,
George
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      02-06-2020, 06:20 PM   #4
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For $13, you can get the whole Torx set:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The T60 is also 1/2" drive.

I use a 2' breaker bar, and it isn't easy to relieve tension on the tensioner. I'd use the correct Torx, as I think the tensioner is aluminum, which will strip.

Anyway, once you get the T60, think how popular you will be with the girls!
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      02-06-2020, 06:28 PM   #5
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I’m replacing it because of my OFHG leaked onto it a bit and I was advised to change it ASAP. The belt also looks and sounds shakey. My main goal is to change the belt though, and pulleys just because I’ll already have the belt off.
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      02-06-2020, 07:15 PM   #6
nsjames
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sound reasoning.

personally I'd go get the appropriate bit.
it's how long to make it to autozone? 30 minutes maybe?
compare that to how long a time it will be if you strip out the tensioner.
and it's not just the belt tensioner, the bolts that hold it in are also torx. IIRC t45? so make sure the auto shop has those too.
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      02-06-2020, 07:52 PM   #7
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I'd get a quality Torx and reverse torx set. OTC makes a really nice set.

The torx fitting on the belt tensioner is made of aluminum. So, not having the right size on that piece would not be a good idea. You should have an 18" power bar to push the pulley back.

ESC Tuning & FCP make a pulley, belt & tensioner set.
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      02-06-2020, 07:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter5498 View Post
I’m replacing it because of my OFHG leaked onto it a bit and I was advised to change it ASAP. The belt also looks and sounds shakey. My main goal is to change the belt though, and pulleys just because I’ll already have the belt off.
Agree with others, I would not chance rounding-out the aluminum bolt head.

Are you replacing the source problem OFHG?
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      02-06-2020, 08:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
2) Are you aware of the Left Motor Mount issue that causes pulley to contact frame?
Please tell us more - do you have a thread link? Do you mean driver's side (left) or passenger side (right)?

I just replaced my motor mounts and noticed two things:

1 - the right motor mount bushing was fried.
2 - the right side of the subframe below the motor mount appeared warped and/or out of alignment.
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      02-06-2020, 08:29 PM   #10
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I would get the correct tool. homedepo has a good selection also. You don't want to strip that torq
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      02-06-2020, 10:22 PM   #11
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Thanks for the replies guys.

They actually ended up having a T60 so I didn’t take a few parts out for no reason(the fan was a pain). It would’ve been stupid to even try the T55 in the T60. The difference is far. Hope this thread benefits a few in the future.

T20
T25
T27
T50
T60

Also George, any elaboration on the motor mount issue?

Edit: To my surprise, I found plenty of fraying across my belt that could’ve easily turned into a shredded belt in my engine if I had no care. Ain’t no joke. Take care of that OFHG and serp belt ASAP.

Last edited by Peter5498; 02-06-2020 at 10:52 PM..
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      02-06-2020, 11:43 PM   #12
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter5498 View Post
...
Also George, any elaboration on the motor mount issue?
Known issue with early N54 335i built PRIOR to 4/2008, per Bentley, 003-6, pdf page 15, copy attached.
Also attached is pdf "E9x References" with links to TIS, Bentley pdf, and more.

George
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Last edited by gbalthrop; 02-06-2020 at 11:48 PM..
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      03-02-2020, 07:56 PM   #13
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Since there is a live discussion of replacing the serpentine belt, I have a question for the group. I have a 2006 325i (N52) and I plan to replace the serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley. (BTW, the car is still running the original belt at 14 years old (although it only has 72,000 miles)). My question relates to parts -- specifically whether to use Genuine BMW, or whether "OE quality" parts are acceptable. FCP Euro has a kit for $90 (with free shipping) (SKU: KIT-11287628650KT). The kit includes the belt, tensioner, and idler pulley. The belt is made by Contitech, while the tensioner and idler pulley are made by INA. The same parts (as Geniune BMW) from getbmwparts.com total out to $235 with shipping to my location. The cost difference is obviously significant enough to consider the FCP Euro kit. Does anyone here have experience with the FCP Euro kit? Can I have confidence in the quality? Thanks in advance for the help. Jim
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      03-02-2020, 07:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subframe View Post
Since there is a live discussion of replacing the serpentine belt, I have a question for the group. I have a 2006 325i (N52) and I plan to replace the serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley. (BTW, the car is still running the original belt at 14 years old (although it only has 72,000 miles)). My question relates to parts -- specifically whether to use Genuine BMW, or whether "OE quality" parts are acceptable. FCP Euro has a kit for $90 (with free shipping) (SKU: KIT-11287628650KT). The kit includes the belt, tensioner, and idler pulley. The belt is made by Contitech, while the tensioner and idler pulley are made by INA. The same parts (as Geniune BMW) from getbmwparts.com total out to $235 with shipping to my location. The cost difference is obviously significant enough to consider the FCP Euro kit. Does anyone here have experience with the FCP Euro kit? Can I have confidence in the quality? Thanks in advance for the help. Jim
That kit is fine. Those suppliers are OE suppliers for BMW.
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      03-02-2020, 08:35 PM   #15
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56K miles on my contitech kit.
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