[Tschultz31]

so ive been having a recurring issue with my 335i randomly my abs and traction control will disable and the car will go into limp mode so I replaced the battery and it kept happening so I then replaced the alternator because when I looked at it it was visably fried but I didn't know I was supposed to code the battery about 4 days later when I learned I was supposed to is it possible either putting the battery in with a bad alt killed the battery and then when I put the new alternator in and didn't code it also killed the alt or is it possibly something im just super stumped and wonder if any one else has ran into this also when it happens and I read the codes they are usually different

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Tschultz31

so ive been having a recurring issue with my 335i randomly my abs and traction control will disable and the car will go into limp mode so I replaced the battery and it kept happening so I then replaced the alternator because when I looked at it it was visably fried but I didn't know I was supposed to code the battery about 4 days later when I learned I was supposed to is it possible either putting the battery in with a bad alt killed the battery and then when I put the new alternator in and didn't code it also killed the alt or is it possibly something im just super stumped and wonder if any one else has ran into this also when it happens and I read the codes they are usually different

Coding the battery is not mandatory. The car will function normally without a coded battery. However, the battery will not last as long because it won't be optimally charged over the years.

[ricx]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Coding the battery is not mandatory. The car will function normally without a coded battery. However, the battery will not last as long because it won't be optimally charged over the years.

Not coding could be an issue if you went from la to agm vise versal.

[ctuna]

Did you put in the same capacity and type of battery?
It's not likely the battery would be having trouble in
that short a time due to not registering it.
Changing battery type and capacity does mean reprogramming
but putting one in that is the same requires registration
but is not as big an issue.

If you had voltage issues what were the voltages?

I don't see how your original symptoms would be a battery
problem. Unless other problems like slow start and loosing
the time of day settings in the car came with it.

Did you do any measurements before swapping stuff out?

[Andystobbs]

You have ABS issue so replaced the battery?
Have you researched the symptom of ABS pump motor brushes swelling in their housings?

[nsjames]

ok. Let's clarify some things firstly.

coding and registering a battery are not the same.
coding is telling the car what you installed. Registering is telling the car you installed a new one.

and you should be checking codes not chucking parts at it.
it could possibly just have a bad wheel speed sender and you've thrown $400 worth of battery and alternator at it already.

get codes.
preferably freeze frame data as well.

come back.

[Tschultz31]

Originally Posted by nsjames

ok. Let's clarify some things firstly.

coding and registering a battery are not the same.
coding is telling the car what you installed. Registering is telling the car you installed a new one.

and you should be checking codes not chucking parts at it.
it could possibly just have a bad wheel speed sender and you've thrown $400 worth of battery and alternator at it already.

get codes.
preferably freeze frame data as well.

come back.

I did read the codes before I started putting anything into the wheel speed sensors were one of he first things I checked they are all functioning properly the reason I replaced the battery and alternator is because my buddy that owns a 535i told me he had the same issue and it was because of the alternator but i know for a fact all my whell speed sensors are not he problem

[Tschultz31]

Originally Posted by Andystobbs

You have ABS issue so replaced the battery?
Have you researched the symptom of ABS pump motor brushes swelling in their housings?

No I haven’t actually that’s why I’m asking a forum to see if there’s anything else it could be you could just enlighten me instead of being like that about it the reason I thought it was the battery or alternator was because my buddy who has a 535i said the same thing happened to his car and it was the voltage regulator so he replaced his alternator and it fixed it

[Tschultz31]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Did you put in the same capacity and type of battery?
It's not likely the battery would be having trouble in
that short a time due to not registering it.
Changing battery type and capacity does mean reprogramming
but putting one in that is the same requires registration
but is not as big an issue.

If you had voltage issues what were the voltages?

I don't see how your original symptoms would be a battery
problem. Unless other problems like slow start and loosing
the time of day settings in the car came with it.

Did you do any measurements before swapping stuff out?

So I tested the battery with a tester first the very first time it happened and it was at like 220cca and my alternator voltage was at like 16.2 v that’s why I thought those were the issues also because of my buddy I mentioned in my other replies as well as the wheel speed sensors working properly

[Tschultz31]

Originally Posted by Tschultz31

so ive been having a recurring issue with my 335i randomly my abs and traction control will disable and the car will go into limp mode so I replaced the battery and it kept happening so I then replaced the alternator because when I looked at it it was visably fried but I didn't know I was supposed to code the battery about 4 days later when I learned I was supposed to is it possible either putting the battery in with a bad alt killed the battery and then when I put the new alternator in and didn't code it also killed the alt or is it possibly something im just super stumped and wonder if any one else has ran into this also when it happens and I read the codes they are usually different

Also I didn’t mention in the post a little bit ago it died completely on my way home and I needed to get it towed I don’t think that would be completely because of an abs issue

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by Tschultz31

I did read the codes before I started putting anything into the wheel speed sensors were one of he first things I checked they are all functioning properly the reason I replaced the battery and alternator is because my buddy that owns a 535i told me he had the same issue and it was because of the alternator but i know for a fact all my whell speed sensors are not he problem

What codes did you find? What codes are there now?

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by Tschultz31

I did read the codes before I started putting anything into the wheel speed sensors were one of he first things I checked they are all functioning properly the reason I replaced the battery and alternator is because my buddy that owns a 535i told me he had the same issue and it was because of the alternator but i know for a fact all my whell speed sensors are not he problem

well you should have led with those codes.


when you start declaring things as facts during a diagnostic process you're already going down the wrong path.

You don't know what's wrong, so you can't unequivocally say that parts are good.



good luck.

[ctuna]

Alternator voltage should never be higher than 14.5.
At least the at the output of the regulator.
It could fry some of the electronics.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Tschultz31

so ive been having a recurring issue with my 335i randomly my abs and traction control will disable and the car will go into limp mode so I replaced the battery and it kept happening so I then replaced the alternator because when I looked at it it was visably fried but I didn't know I was supposed to code the battery about 4 days later when I learned I was supposed to is it possible either putting the battery in with a bad alt killed the battery and then when I put the new alternator in and didn't code it also killed the alt or is it possibly something im just super stumped and wonder if any one else has ran into this also when it happens and I read the codes they are usually different

Originally Posted by Tschultz31

...[NO Fault Code Numbers, Definitions, etc; NO Test Data; NO punctuation ]...

Originally Posted by Tschultz31

...[NO Fault Code Numbers, Definitions, etc; NO Test Data; NO punctuation ]...

Originally Posted by Tschultz31

So I tested the battery with a tester first the very first time it happened and it was at like 220cca [Irrelevant -- WHAT was voltage measured at Jumpstart Terminals??] and my alternator voltage was at like 16.2 v [THAT is "Over-Voltage" and can cause Warning Lights on Instrument Cluster, and other types of Electronic Module malfunction or damage] that’s why I thought those were the issues... as well as the wheel speed sensors working properly [WHAT tests were done to determine "wheel speed sensors working properly"?]

Originally Posted by Tschultz31

Also I didn’t mention in the post a little bit ago it died completely on my way home and I needed to get it towed I don’t think that would be completely because of an abs issue

Originally Posted by nsjames

well you should have led with those codes.
when you start declaring things as facts during a diagnostic process you're already going down the wrong path.
You don't know what's wrong, so you can't unequivocally say that parts are good.
good luck. [AMEN BRO' ]

"T", I'm NOT trying to give you a hard time, but simply trying to point out two things:

1) Punctuation and Paragraph breaks make reading a post MUCH easier. Lack of same suggests inattention to detail & disregard for others, neither of which are conducive to getting the desired help (assuming you ACTUALLY wanted "help!!!" as opposed to simply "venting" .

2) Providing ACTUAL Data allows Forum Members to ACTUALLY HELP!!!: Fault Codes, Fault DEFINITIONS, Tests Conducted and the Values read/observed in those tests, etc.

You seem to have a reasonable understanding of the issue, as you appear to realize that "Over-Voltage" can cause the "light-show" you apparently observed on the dash, for the reasons identified above, but the way you presented the issue in this thread did NOT allow anyone to ACTUALLY HELP!!!

Suggestions for future posts:

1) BEFORE surgery/throwing parts, post symptoms and DATA on Forum and get "Second Opinion."

2) Go HEAVY on the FACTS, and EASY on the OPINION/CONCLUSIONS, particularly when the BASIS (Scan/ Test Results) for those Conclusions is/are NOT provided.

There are a lot of (at least "quite a few" ;-) people on this Forum who KNOW and/or are LEARNING how to diagnose issues in a "scientific manner", but they can ONLY help if given the necessary facts. You seem to understand the basic FACTS needed to be conveyed, so that's why the "epistle" reminding you of WHY to convey them.

George

[Tschultz31]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

"T", I'm NOT trying to give you a hard time, but simply trying to point out two things:

1) Punctuation and Paragraph breaks make reading a post MUCH easier. Lack of same suggests inattention to detail & disregard for others, neither of which are conducive to getting the desired help (assuming you ACTUALLY wanted "help!!!" as opposed to simply "venting" .

2) Providing ACTUAL Data allows Forum Members to ACTUALLY HELP!!!: Fault Codes, Fault DEFINITIONS, Tests Conducted and the Values read/observed in those tests, etc.

You seem to have a reasonable understanding of the issue, as you appear to realize that "Over-Voltage" can cause the "light-show" you apparently observed on the dash, for the reasons identified above, but the way you presented the issue in this thread did NOT allow anyone to ACTUALLY HELP!!!

Suggestions for future posts:

1) BEFORE surgery/throwing parts, post symptoms and DATA on Forum and get "Second Opinion."

2) Go HEAVY on the FACTS, and EASY on the OPINION/CONCLUSIONS, particularly when the BASIS (Scan/ Test Results) for those Conclusions is/are NOT provided.

There are a lot of (at least "quite a few" ;-) people on this Forum who KNOW and/or are LEARNING how to diagnose issues in a "scientific manner", but they can ONLY help if given the necessary facts. You seem to understand the basic FACTS needed to be conveyed, so that's why the "epistle" reminding you of WHY to convey them.

George

I was trying to do this all on my phone while I was at an airport because I had more time than I normally do. I apologize for the lack of communication I have pictures of the codes from a couple of the occurrences but I haven’t been able to post them because my phone is trash.

I tested the wheel speed sensors by doing a data stream with a triton d8 scan tool. They were all reading properly so that’s why i am trying to figure out if me not coding/registering the battery (which I did with the same scan tool) caused it to make my parts fail and that’s why it could still be over voltage or killed the battery.

Or if it something related to the abs because I’ve also seen on another that it could possibly be a steering wheel angle sensor but I don’t even know why that would cause that.



The most recent codes from when it died and I needed it towed were
3100
Boost pressure control deactivation
2e98
Generator communication
2e83
Electric coolant pump power reduced operation
2deb
Power management vehicle electrical system
2aaf
Fuel pump plausibility
2dec
Power management battery
29e0
Mixture control
29e1
Mixture control 2
28f1
Fuel pressure plausibility

Thank you for the advice I apologize for the lack of communication

[nsjames]

the steering angle sensor feeds data into the DSC about the desired direction of travel.
the yaw sensor compares the steering wheel's position with the current yaw of the car. If they don't match then the DSC calculates the slip angle and what it needs to do to bring the car back to the desired input using the ABS/throttle.

it can cause the trifecta of ABS/DSC/4x4 lights on the dash, but I've never had it cause limp mode. Mine freaks out anytime the battery is disconnected.

generator communication is BSD bus related.
as is the water pump and the battery management.
It's possible you have a BSD device that's failing and taking down the bus causing some of those errors.

but I don't believe they are causing your limp mode. You've got a bunch of mixture control and fuel system related things there, and I'd strongly suspect that you have a fuel pump on it's way out.
it's very similar to the issues that my brother had on both of his n54 powered cars, and both ended up with new HPFPs.

what year and drivetrain is your car? n54? n55?

and I have ran an unregistered battery for a bit with no issues.
even an improperly coded battery would not cause 16 volts.

I will say that I do see 15.2-4 ish on a cold day when the car is attempting to bulk charge.
and that's within the normal charge rate for a flooded battery depending on temp.

[Tschultz31]

Originally Posted by nsjames

the steering angle sensor feeds data into the DSC about the desired direction of travel.
the yaw sensor compares the steering wheel's position with the current yaw of the car. If they don't match then the DSC calculates the slip angle and what it needs to do to bring the car back to the desired input using the ABS/throttle.

it can cause the trifecta of ABS/DSC/4x4 lights on the dash, but I've never had it cause limp mode. Mine freaks out anytime the battery is disconnected.

generator communication is BSD bus related.
as is the water pump and the battery management.
It's possible you have a BSD device that's failing and taking down the bus causing some of those errors.

but I don't believe they are causing your limp mode. You've got a bunch of mixture control and fuel system related things there, and I'd strongly suspect that you have a fuel pump on it's way out.
it's very similar to the issues that my brother had on both of his n54 powered cars, and both ended up with new HPFPs.

what year and drivetrain is your car? n54? n55?

and I have ran an unregistered battery for a bit with no issues.
even an improperly coded battery would not cause 16 volts.

I will say that I do see 15.2-4 ish on a cold day when the car is attempting to bulk charge.
and that's within the normal charge rate for a flooded battery depending on temp.

It’s a 2009 335i n54 with 104,000 miles and I just realized I messed up a bit when it tested 16 v that was after I replaced the battery but before I replaced the alternator but I haven’t been able to do anything with it since it died because I don’t have that scan tool anymore and the car is completely dead now so I don’t know what the voltage so I guess I’m kind of a dumbass for just assuming that’s what it was

[nsjames]

then it is possible you had a failed voltage regulator.

completely dead how?
doesn't start?
no lights in the interior?
Do you own a multimeter?

[e90yyc]

Voltage regulator can be replaced separately, if indeed yours is bad. I kind of doubt it though, as you said you’ve just replaced your alternator, no?

What did you replace it with? OE? I believe it’s Bosch in your car, but for some reason I remember Valeo being the OEM for some E90’s (could be wrong...).

It sounds like you don’t have a charger, but that’ll need to change. I’m not sure if any other practical way to continue troubleshooting this if you’ve got a dead battery. You don’t want to be jump-starting it and running it with those electrical issues.

Best of luck!

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Alternator voltage should never be higher than 14.5.
At least the at the output of the regulator.
It could fry some of the electronics.

Originally Posted by e90yyc

Voltage regulator can be replaced separately, if indeed yours is bad. I kind of doubt it though, as you said you’ve just replaced your alternator, no?

What did you replace it with? OE? I believe it’s Bosch in your car, but for some reason I remember Valeo being the OEM for some E90’s (could be wrong...).

It sounds like you don’t have a charger, but that’ll need to change. I’m not sure if any other practical way to continue troubleshooting this if you’ve got a dead battery. You don’t want to be jump-starting it and running it with those electrical issues.

Best of luck!

I don't believe he's read any codes or checked the voltage since alternator replacement.

[Tschultz31]

Originally Posted by nsjames

then it is possible you had a failed voltage regulator.

completely dead how?
doesn't start?
no lights in the interior?
Do you own a multimeter?

Won’t start or display any interior light I can’t even open my trunk. I borrowed a multimeter but I need to have it towed to my work where it will be easier for me to use a scan tool, charger, and the multimeter

[Tschultz31]

Originally Posted by nsjames

I don't believe he's read any codes or checked the voltage since alternator replacement.

I checked the voltage before it died completely but after I replaced the alt and it was reading 15.1-15.2 area but it was pretty early and cold plus it was already in limp mode when I tested it. But I thought that was just because I didn’t register/code the battery but I guess I was completely wrong. And the codes I posted wer after the alt was replaced too when it died and wouldn’t start it still had some power and I had the scan tool from my work with me I read the codes when I was waiting for the tow truck.