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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > E93 roof problem please help



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      02-27-2020, 04:22 PM   #1
JanMc
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E93 roof problem please help

Hi

I am hoping someone here might be able to help.

Two days ago my trunk locks would not engage unless the trunk lid was firmly pushed down.

But the trunk is not the only problem.

Since then my roof does not work at all.
The roof activation button does nothing. No lights/ movement or sound that indicates I activated it.


Hardtop controller has failed! Also pops up on screen or sometimes hardtop is not latched.

I will try to upload screen grabs of the error and obd data.


If anyone can shed some light it will be greatly appreciated....
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      02-27-2020, 04:54 PM   #2
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I would read the codes with ista or inpa to verify and see what else is thrown. If everything points to the controller, replace it.
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      02-27-2020, 05:12 PM   #3
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What is the controller?

The ctm module? If so any idea Where is it located?

I dont have ista or inpa cable... will order one .
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      02-27-2020, 05:20 PM   #4
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First thing on these cars is to check the battery and alternator voltages.
Low voltages do not make for happy electronics or electric motors.
Low voltages will cause a plethora of phantom problems.
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      02-27-2020, 05:42 PM   #5
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I second the battery, with the codes telling you this "under voltage-yes".
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      02-27-2020, 05:46 PM   #6
JanMc
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Cheers guys but with the car started does the battery voltage matter.
I will check tomorrow and report back.
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      02-28-2020, 10:17 AM   #7
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Hi so just checked the voltage and its reading 11.96v car off and 14.51v with car started.
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      02-28-2020, 10:53 AM   #8
ctuna
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Anything under 12 is real bad 12.2 is marginal.
The convertibles require and extra strong battery to power the
roof. Try putting a long slow charge on it clearing the codes
and scanning again. Try monitoring the voltage when the roof trys
to close it will drop way lower (with the engine off that is)
Alternator voltage is good.

Also with a strong battery the car will usually start fairly instantaneously
where with a weak one it will turn over a few times or more before
starting.

There is an education on the Convert Roof in the following links
Water Drains
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...hlight=battery
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...hlight=battery
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1566005
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1566005
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...hlight=battery

Last edited by ctuna; 02-28-2020 at 10:59 AM..
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      02-28-2020, 01:10 PM   #9
JanMc
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Cheers

I have checked the boot/trunk for water and it seems to be ok.
Battery is nice and dry from what I can tell.

I live in the uk and dont have a garage so will have to be sunday till I can trickle charge the battery. Weather permitting.

However I went on a 150 mile round two days ago. Should that should have charged it sufficiently? I did try the roof when I got home but nothing happened.
No green or red light on the roof operating switch and no noises to suggest anything was activated.

Can someone tell me where the controller is located. I can get one cheaply from the local breakers. I would like to try changing that too as well as the battery charge/regeneration.

Thanks for your help this far guys ... really appreciate it.
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      02-29-2020, 08:20 AM   #10
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The top module is behind the right side (drivers side in your case) rear seat back corner area, behind the piece that is the corner between but back of the seat and the side of the car. If you swap with a used one it will most likely need coded to the car. I have had a situation many years ago where just unplugging it for a bit and plugging it back in helped, pulling negative on battery would accomplish the same thing I would guess.

Here is the smarttop install manual, it hooks into the top controller so shows you were it is and how to get things apart to get to it.

Good Luck!

http://www.mods4cars.com/sms/db/smar...stall_3/en.php
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      02-29-2020, 02:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JanMc View Post
Cheers

I have checked the boot/trunk for water and it seems to be ok.
Battery is nice and dry from what I can tell.

I live in the uk and dont have a garage so will have to be sunday till I can trickle charge the battery. Weather permitting.

However I went on a 150 mile round two days ago. Should that should have charged it sufficiently? I did try the roof when I got home but nothing happened.
No green or red light on the roof operating switch and no noises to suggest anything was activated.

Can someone tell me where the controller is located. I can get one cheaply from the local breakers. I would like to try changing that too as well as the battery charge/regeneration.

Thanks for your help this far guys ... really appreciate it.
If your battery was at 11.9v, after a 150 mile trip your battery isn't near 12.5v. The alt provides power to the car and maintains, the trickle that charges the battery, you'll have to drive to the moon to get filled. After the road trip all you had to do is take a meter reading to verify that. When the weather permits, put it on a charger. You don't want to continue starting the car at 11.9v, it reduces battery life and makes the starter work harder.
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      03-01-2020, 07:42 AM   #12
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SO why don't you hook up a battery to the terminals under the engine hood that go back to the battery? That way you have full voltage and the trunk should open. Am I missing why this won't work?
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      03-01-2020, 08:11 AM   #13
JanMc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmaster View Post
SO why don't you hook up a battery to the terminals under the engine hood that go back to the battery? That way you have full voltage and the trunk should open. Am I missing why this won't work?
I dont know why but it's not working.

However the battery is detected as agm on my bosch charger and its charged fully.

To clarify

Originally I took the negative terminal off the battery for 5 mins and slid it back on without tightening the screw to keep it attached.

I closed the boot and went to start the car but the screen went off and the car lost all power

I jump started it with a battery pack and it started up and subsequently everything worked bar the tail gate and original problem which was the roof.

I originally thought the negative side cable must have slid off but I dont think that's the case.

I think the problem with the boot and roof mechanism might be the same cause.


The scanner I have does not pick up a ctm problem but an instrument cluster error code.
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      03-01-2020, 08:14 AM   #14
JanMc
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Anyone know where I can get ista please?
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      03-01-2020, 09:10 AM   #15
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https://www.bimmergeeks.net/
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      03-01-2020, 03:09 PM   #16
ctuna
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Battery charge points are under the Hood

Battery charge points are under the Hood
in the Engine Bay.
At least they are here.
Don't charge at the battery as per board and manual.
No reason to mess with battery connections unless you are
changing the battery or think there is something wrong with the
connections.

Last edited by ctuna; 03-01-2020 at 09:48 PM..
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      03-01-2020, 04:58 PM   #17
JanMc
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Thanks ricx just waiting on a cable and then hopefully I can run the diagnostics.


Yeah I'm regretting disconnecting the battery now cuna... i dont understand why it would effect the trunk. I reconnected the negative but didn't tighten it down. Could it have slipped off.

Car starts without jumping and all central locking works. Just the trunk does not work.

Key fob and trunk release wont open it. Applying charger to the +tive and grounding the -tive won't release either.
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      03-01-2020, 05:08 PM   #18
ricx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JanMc View Post
Thanks ricx just waiting on a cable and then hopefully I can run the diagnostics.


Yeah I'm regretting disconnecting the battery now cuna... i dont understand why it would effect the trunk. I reconnected the negative but didn't tighten it down. Could it have slipped off.

Car starts without jumping and all central locking works. Just the trunk does not work.

Key fob and trunk release wont open it. Applying charger to the +tive and grounding the -tive won't release either.
What model do you have, the early models have a manual key latch.
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      03-01-2020, 08:31 PM   #19
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Yes my 2008 E93 has a lock for key access in the license plate area. I don't remember seeing what model he has here.
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      03-01-2020, 09:55 PM   #20
ctuna
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The clamp on the battery is finicky . You must keep the entire lug
pushed down while tightening the lug or you won't get good contact.
I scared myself taking it off to do a stereo install. Make sure it feels
tight and measure the voltage to the two battery posts to see if it agrees with
the wire end to the battery cables. Also be sure none of the other connections on top of the battery distribution block have not come disconnected.
If you are disconnecting the battery its better to do the negative side
as not as much junk is connected to it.

https://www.nathansbmwworkshop.com/b...or-dean-videos
Diagnostic Manuals Inpa/Ista D
https://bimmerprofs.com/diagnostics-inpa-part-1/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...7x8H3pN8h1fMuF
https://carmod.ru/files/icom/istad_en.pdf
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-P-actually-do
primary links
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573

Last edited by ctuna; 03-01-2020 at 10:01 PM..
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      03-02-2020, 01:45 PM   #21
JanMc
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It's a 2009 e93 and has no keyhole for the trunk unfortunately...
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      03-02-2020, 02:25 PM   #22
ctuna
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Have no idea how a convert trunk locks but
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=986670
don't know if the same trick works.
Or if there is something else you can jump to release.
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