[NCSUPack24]

Alright, I need your help with my 2007 328i Sedan w/146k miles.

Back in January I noticed the car was idling rough on start (not immediately however. It'll start, level at 1k for a bit, and then start bouncing on the tach), with vibration coming through the cabin. Pulled codes, got 29E1 (Mixture Control 2) and 2A99 (Crankshaft - Exhaust Camshaft Reference). Did a little searching on here and saw 2A99 was VANOS related. So, I cleaned and swapped them, reset the codes and waited. No codes came back, but the rough idle/cabin noise remained.

At this point I'm treating it as a vacuum leak. I take the MAF/TB/Intake Manifold out, looking for cracked hoses or fittings. Don't see anything. I cleaned everything, replaced the intake manifold gaskets, and put the intake back in. Same thing, no difference.

Dug further on here, and people were suggesting engine mounts could cause the vibration. My car is getting up there in age/miles, so I figured I'd give it a shot, as it probably needed them anyhow. No change.

Few weeks later I scan and get 29E0 and 29E1, so now I'm supposedly running lean in both banks? I pull the plugs, check them out and the gaps are correct (and even across all 6), and they look like they're a little lean. (See attachement)

I use my wifi borescope to check the heads, and they actually look pretty clean, except for cylinder 1. I attached a photo of a clean head, and then one of cyl 1. I know it's not as good of a picture, but the cylinder was too far up during the picture. See how it's darker? Is that carbon or a leaky injector?

I replaced the two VANOS check valves while I was at it since they're cheap and someone mentioned it solved this issue for them. No luck.

Tl;dr, here's everything I have done
1) Replaced VANOS check valves; Cleaned/swapped solenoids
2) Changed oil (Castrol Euro-spec 0w-40)
3) Replaced engine mounts
4) Replaced intake manifold gaskets
5) Cleaned throttle body
6) Cleaned MAF
7) Checked vacuum lines
8) Cleaned/reinstalled crankshaft position sensor

I just ordered a set of coils and plugs (I planned on doing them for this mileage anyhow).

At this point, I can only assume it's a fuel starvation issue, so I'll probably tackle injectors or the fuel pump/filter next. Anyone have some insight? I'll take anything. Thanks.

[Moisture]

What about your ignition coils?

Fuel system/injectors is probably your best bet.

[JessiV909]

Had a similar problem when I turned on my car it would have a rough idle. I changed the Crankshaft Sensor and fixed the problem

[schriss]

Camshaft sensors would be next to replace, but what about injectors? Check what index are they, if old then it could be them going bad. In my case ALL my Index 9 injectors were bad. You can test them in INPA Rough Run menu, you might see 1 or more going into negative values often and the other ones compensating by going on positive side a lot.
On direct injected engine you might also test for leaks since spark plug is directly next to injector tip: wait 1-2 hours after driving then remove each spark plug and see if it's wet and smells fuel. But this is only one of many ways Injectors fail, so no fuel on sparkplugs does not mean they produce nice mist (they might be squirting like a syringe - bad) or that they do not lag with opening/closing when operating.

[TunafishE93]

You didn't mention battery.. That's number one for these cars and make sure you know the difference between AGM and traditional batteries, two different beast.

[gT-BMW]

look how black that sparkplug is. it looks border line fouled out as if it was getting to much fuel.

[marvinstockman]

Use your right foot and the throttle to smooth the idle for the first 20 seconds or so, and you'll be fine.

Otherwise, you can spend thousands searching for 'smoke'.