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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Brake Guard Loose?
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03-22-2020, 08:03 AM | #1 |
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Brake Guard Loose?
Hello, in that picture that guard or cover thing. Not really sure what it's called but it Is loose and making a horrible rattling noise. Is there any way to tighten it without taking everything apart? Thanks
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03-22-2020, 09:02 AM | #3 |
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Is that amount of rust bad I'm the 3rd owner of this car and I know it's spent all of its life in New Jersey and Michigan which have horrible salty roads in the winter. I'm trying my best to keep the underside clean, spraying it down when it gets salty and snowy out .
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03-22-2020, 09:06 AM | #4 |
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Over time it rattles loose, from corrosion or wear and tear the thin aluminum or whatever material it is doesn't stand up too well.
That looks like the rear from the picture. As far as I remember you cannot replace it without removing the wheel hub assembly. If it gets bad I would just cut it off until you can replace it properly. GL |
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03-22-2020, 04:55 PM | #6 | |
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nasty scaley rust is a problem. you need to wire wheel all that shit off/out and then smear some grease all over those bits to keep it from rusting further. you still can't remove the dust shield. but that is how you get at it with a death wheel to make it go away |
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03-22-2020, 08:20 PM | #7 |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
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You can cut them off with a dremmel or maybe a Sawzall.
The only way to cleanly remove them is to do a wheel bearing diy of sorts. During this DIY, enough of the hub etc. will be removed that you can remove the dust shields. You can buy new ones. Keep that in mind |
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03-23-2020, 10:30 AM | #9 |
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03-23-2020, 11:27 AM | #10 |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
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Well, I for one am not looking forward to that day. 173,000 miles on original front & rear wheel bearings. All on Michigan roads. Keep in mind, we use salt on the roads in the winter.
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03-23-2020, 11:31 AM | #11 |
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The salt really does a number on these cars. Mine has been in New Jersey it's whole life and for the past two years it's been in Michigan. Both horrible states for corrosion and rust.
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03-23-2020, 11:55 AM | #12 |
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All you need to is : take the caliper and the rotor off, like doing a new rotor replacement. That piece has 5 or 6 bolts if I remember correctly. Take the bolts off and it comes right off. I did mine when I change my front disks, sanded and painted with silver brake caliper paint.
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03-23-2020, 03:02 PM | #14 | |
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The front is set up differently then the back. |
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03-23-2020, 03:32 PM | #15 |
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I think, going from memory when it did my rear bearings, with all the brake components removed, you can remove the small bolts attaching the dust shield to the hub and use fender washers under the bolts to get better purchase of the sheet metal of the dust shield.
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03-23-2020, 03:34 PM | #16 | |
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03-23-2020, 04:44 PM | #17 |
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The axle nut is fused to the axle shaft I'd bet. And the axle is probably fused inside the hub flange. I did my bearings DIY, but I have a full shop with air and a lift, and it still wasn't an easy task of disassembly. I'd leave it to a professional shop. Expect to need new axle shafts and hub flanges at a minimum. Worst will be a new hub carrier added to the parts list. Might be best to unbolt the hub carrier from the suspension links and unbolt the axle from the diff and throw new parts in. The cost of the extra labor to fuk with it is more than the cost of the new parts, or used ones off a car not strapped to the Titanic.
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03-23-2020, 05:45 PM | #19 | |
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03-23-2020, 09:05 PM | #20 | ||
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It would probably cost you $350 to $500, if you took it to a specialty shop that only deals with suspensions and the like. |
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