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      05-20-2020, 01:57 PM   #1
Willson1010
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340i tune

Hey guys I'm new to this whole forum thing but was hoping you guys could help me out. I'm just trying to decide on whether to tune my 2016 340i xdrive. I have about 62k on it and was wondering if that might be a little high. I don't want a bunch of stuff to start breaking on the car but I would like to make it a little faster. Thanks!
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      05-20-2020, 02:01 PM   #2
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hey dude,

if youre car is running fine and you keep up with your maintenance go ahead and tune it. i waited for my f30’s warranty to run out and tuned it with MHD and am loving it.
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      05-20-2020, 02:06 PM   #3
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Do it. Just get BM3 from a vendor that bundles a cable and flash stage 1 with the appropriate octane and drive away. It's the bees knees. No need to change hardware on a B58. If you haven't already, read the FAQ on the PTF website and check out the DIY wireless box if you don't have a laptop. Cost you ~$50 to build it yourself or there's usually some on the engine parts for sale section if you don't want to mess with it.

*edit*
Actually, looks like they're getting the install size down a lot lower and could potentially eliminate the need for the OBD agent device altogether: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1721488
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Last edited by BeerHerder; 05-20-2020 at 02:20 PM..
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      05-20-2020, 03:09 PM   #4
Willson1010
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Originally Posted by BeerHerder View Post
Do it. Just get BM3 from a vendor that bundles a cable and flash stage 1 with the appropriate octane and drive away. It's the bees knees. No need to change hardware on a B58. If you haven't already, read the FAQ on the PTF website and check out the DIY wireless box if you don't have a laptop. Cost you ~$50 to build it yourself or there's usually some on the engine parts for sale section if you don't want to mess with it.

*edit*
Actually, looks like they're getting the install size down a lot lower and could potentially eliminate the need for the OBD agent device altogether: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1721488
Bm3 is bootmod3, correct?? I'll have to start looking into it. If I do that should I be upgrading anything else to ease the burden? Like intake, exhaust, etc? It does have the M sport exhaust already. Sorry I'm pretty new to this lol
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      05-20-2020, 03:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willson1010 View Post
Bm3 is bootmod3, correct?? I'll have to start looking into it. If I do that should I be upgrading anything else to ease the burden? Like intake, exhaust, etc? It does have the M sport exhaust already. Sorry I'm pretty new to this lol
If you want the absolute max power then go stage 2 which includes downpipes, intake, front mount intercooler, and chargepipe. For stage 1 i'm pretty sure you can go on it safely without modding anything else. (someone correct me if the B58 chargepipe is a shitbox like the N55)
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      05-20-2020, 05:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
If you want the absolute max power then go stage 2 which includes downpipes, intake, front mount intercooler, and chargepipe. For stage 1 i'm pretty sure you can go on it safely without modding anything else. (someone correct me if the B58 chargepipe is a shitbox like the N55)
All you need is a catless (or high flow) downpipe for stage 2 on a B58
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      05-20-2020, 05:30 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by pauli18c View Post
All you need is a catless (or high flow) downpipe for stage 2 on a B58
I mean technically yeah, but idk if B58 has a bad issue with heat soaking. If OP is in a hot climate during the summer i'd probably do FMIC + downpipe atleast
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      05-20-2020, 05:34 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
I mean technically yeah, but idk if B58 has a bad issue with heat soaking. If OP is in a hot climate during the summer i'd probably do FMIC + downpipe atleast
they dont have a FMIC... They have an air to water heat exchanger. The intercooler is located under the intake
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      05-20-2020, 05:49 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by pauli18c View Post
they dont have a FMIC... They have an air to water heat exchanger. The intercooler is located under the intake
Guess that shows you the extent of my knowledge on the B58. Thanks for the tips lol. Is that air to water heat exchanger sufficient? Or is it a part that typically gets the job done even under stage 2.
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      05-20-2020, 07:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
Guess that shows you the extent of my knowledge on the B58. Thanks for the tips lol. Is that air to water heat exchanger sufficient? Or is it a part that typically gets the job done even under stage 2.
They look be plenty efficient for stage 2.
When you start running E85 on a upgraded HPFP and 500whp+ it looks like there's potentially some gains to be had.

Some guys doing some testing on it currently in this thread if you're interested.
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1717248
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      05-20-2020, 07:10 PM   #11
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Agree with getting a BM3. I have a 2016 340i also and never used a tune before and was very nervous, but after flashing to stage 1 I couldn't be happier. No other mods needed with a stage 1, just try that out first as you can always do more down the road if you want to or you may be satisfied as is like I am.
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      05-20-2020, 08:23 PM   #12
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Tune it for sure! These B58s are reliable so long as you maintain it. I've been tuned for about 20k miles and no regret. Stage 2 with DP and tuned by Mission Performance but switching to MHD. I would also couple the XHP transmission tune for the ZF and do a transmission fluid change now.

More than happy to help in anyway as I have a 340i XD as well.
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      05-21-2020, 03:43 PM   #13
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I appreciate all the info guys! Going to order ASAP. Can't wait to try it out!
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      05-21-2020, 07:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willson1010 View Post
I appreciate all the info guys! Going to order ASAP. Can't wait to try it out!
You're 100% not going to regret it. Enjoy and start saving for that downpipe you'll put on in a couple months so you can flash stage 2
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      05-21-2020, 09:28 PM   #15
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Will do bro!
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      05-21-2020, 10:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willson1010 View Post
Will do bro!
You already got some good advice to go with a BootMod3 Stage1 tune. That's pretty much a no brainer. Nothing else needed.

FYI- With 62k miles you are do for a bunch of maintenance items. Spark plugs. Fluid changes for automatic transmission (get ZF Kit with new pan & filter too) and rear differential. If you have an xDrive, also front differential and transfer case.

I found a great local BMW independent mechanic on BimmerShops website and saved a fortune doing them all at once.
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      05-26-2020, 01:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willson1010 View Post
Will do bro!
You already got some good advice to go with a BootMod3 Stage1 tune. That's pretty much a no brainer. Nothing else needed.

FYI- With 62k miles you are do for a bunch of maintenance items. Spark plugs. Fluid changes for automatic transmission (get ZF Kit with new pan & filter too) and rear differential. If you have an xDrive, also front differential and transfer case.

I found a great local BMW independent mechanic on BimmerShops website and saved a fortune doing them all at once.
Okay awesome! I will start looking into all of that now. I already have it going in for a brake fluid flush tomorrow. I wanna try to keep this thing as mint as possible. Hoping to squeeze a lot of miles out of her
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      05-26-2020, 01:52 PM   #18
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So long as you've been doing your routine maintenance you should be in a good place to look into tuning your vehicle. You could have the condition of your engine looked at if you want some peace of mind by companies like Blackstone labs to decide how you'd like to proceed. Having being one of many that have ran BM3 for quite some time, I would advocate for you to eventually getting a downpipe and at least running an OTS map but the condition of your vehicle prior to tuning matters more in my opinion at least.

On the topic of the ZF8 tranny fluid flush, I've brought the topic up to my indy shop that I get my car serviced (Motorcepts if curious) and on a few different occasions I did mention how FCP Euro has been selling the the fluid flush kit for ~$180 and asked sitting at 68k miles if I should just pick it up and have them do the the change and he mentioned that only if I were having issues with shifting should I consider it because at most, he would change a little bit of the fluid as putting in all new fluid could cause a shock to the transmission. Haven't had him crack the drain plug to see the condition but I might do so as I find myself having to do tranny adaptation resets often here and there and just curious on the condition of the oil sitting inside but figured I'd still relay that info.

For reference, I had my car FBO since 40k still within warranty at the time because BMW of Habberstad wasn't picky about service unless it was something related to the parts that I touched on myself.

The car won't break unless you've been hammering on it before
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      05-26-2020, 03:31 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imperfectluck View Post
So long as you've been doing your routine maintenance you should be in a good place to look into tuning your vehicle. You could have the condition of your engine looked at if you want some peace of mind by companies like Blackstone labs to decide how you'd like to proceed. Having being one of many that have ran BM3 for quite some time, I would advocate for you to eventually getting a downpipe and at least running an OTS map but the condition of your vehicle prior to tuning matters more in my opinion at least.

On the topic of the ZF8 tranny fluid flush, I've brought the topic up to my indy shop that I get my car serviced (Motorcepts if curious) and on a few different occasions I did mention how FCP Euro has been selling the the fluid flush kit for ~$180 and asked sitting at 68k miles if I should just pick it up and have them do the the change and he mentioned that only if I were having issues with shifting should I consider it because at most, he would change a little bit of the fluid as putting in all new fluid could cause a shock to the transmission. Haven't had him crack the drain plug to see the condition but I might do so as I find myself having to do tranny adaptation resets often here and there and just curious on the condition of the oil sitting inside but figured I'd still relay that info.

For reference, I had my car FBO since 40k still within warranty at the time because BMW of Habberstad wasn't picky about service unless it was something related to the parts that I touched on myself.

The car won't break unless you've been hammering on it before
Okay awesome that's some good info. Makes sense because I always hear people saying once you pass a certain mileage, don't flush the tranny because it can make it a lot worse. You think that's the same case with the diff fluid?
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      05-26-2020, 03:36 PM   #20
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@Willson1010 sadly I can't speak to the diff as I'm just RWD and I had my open diff dropped for an LSD when they were on a close out sale so it's still relatively new well under 15k miles on it.
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      05-26-2020, 03:39 PM   #21
Willson1010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imperfectluck View Post
@Willson1010 sadly I can't speak to the diff as I'm just RWD and I had my open diff dropped for an LSD when they were on a close out sale so it's still relatively new well under 15k miles on it.
Ahhh gotcha. Well thanks for the info brother I really appreciate it. Huge help!
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      05-26-2020, 04:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willson1010 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by imperfectluck View Post
@Willson1010 sadly I can't speak to the diff as I'm just RWD and I had my open diff dropped for an LSD when they were on a close out sale so it's still relatively new well under 15k miles on it.
Ahhh gotcha. Well thanks for the info brother I really appreciate it. Huge help!
It's a good idea to drain/suction differential fluid and replace. Don't "flush" any of these bmw components. Forcing pressurized Fluid into them can be damaging.

Automatic transmission is a special case. If it doesn't get serviced by 100k then just run it off nail it dies. The thick fluid that builds up keeps tranny working better than draining and filling with brand new thin fluid. It's a risk/reward issue. You will always get longer life out of tranny by servicing it- until you get to 100k miles. If you haven't serviced it at all by then, just leave it be.
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