Battery Registration And Bad Battery

slattrick · 08-03-2020, 01:34 PM

A month or two ago I replaced my 2008 328i starter and battery, the battery did not need to be replaced but I was wishing it was the easy way out if my car didn't need a new starter (which it did). I did not register the battery and now my car won't cold start unless I get it jumped. This has been happening for about 2 days now. I don't know what to do, do yall think I could just register the battery now and if so, how do I do that without bringing it to a bmw mechanic to charge me 150$.

gbalthrop · 08-03-2020, 03:14 PM

Failure to "Register" a battery will NOT cause a "No-Crank" condition in a month or two after Replacement Battery installation. "Battery Registration" is one of the most MISUNDERSTOOD technical terms in the BMW Mythology. The ACTUAL FACTS related to "Battery Registration" are discussed below, but FIRST, some suggestions on what you should do to determine WHY your car won't start NOW.

Questions/Tests:
1) WHAT is the type of the Replacement Battery you installed (FLA vs. AGM)?
2) What is the Capacity Rating of the new battery in Ah, or in RC (Reserve Capacity)?
3) What size is the case of the new battery: H7, H8, etc.? If you don't know how to tell, just take a photo or two of the new battery.
4) What Type, Capacity & Size was the OLD battery you removed & replaced?
5) Do you have a DMM (Digital Multimeter)? If so, what is the battery Voltage measured at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood? Any questions about any of these terms, just ask: It's NOT rocket science (or expensive), just some basic concepts.

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter
6) Start the engine, even if you have to Jumpstart it (after measuring & recording battery voltage), and measure the Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals AGAIN, this time with engine running and Alternator hopefully charging, and record System Voltage with engine running.
7) Shut down engine, and measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals ~ 15 minutes AFTER shutdown, and record Voltage reading.
8) Four (4) to Eight (8) hours later, measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals, and record reading, along with Hours elapsed.
9) Report back with data and we can suggest next steps.
10) When you say: "my car won't cold start unless I get it jumped" do you mean the Starter will NOT crank the engine at all if the car has sat for 4-6-8 hours?
11) Do you mean if you try to start engine within an hour or two after shutdown the Starter WILL crank the engine?
12) If the Starter does NOT crank the engine when START button is pressed with foot on Brake/Clutch, what sounds are heard and WHERE do they come from? Is there a "Ratchet-like click" of ~ 5 clicks per second, such as the Starter Solenoid makes when battery voltage is too low?
13) HOW Long does the car have to sit with engine off before the Starter just clicks?

If my understanding of your description, as reflected by questions 10 & 11, is correct, then you PROBABLY have "parasitic draw" or an electrical consumer drawing excessive current (Amps) after the car should have entered "Sleep Mode" which should occur 15 to 30 minutes after you turn Ignition OFF and exit the vehicle. The Voltage measurement tests suggested above will aid in determining "Next Steps" in diagnosing the issue. If my interpretation of your situation is NOT correct, then please provide Detailed Facts describing the situation.

Battery Registration & Changing Battery Type/Capacity "Code/Option":
"Batterietausch Registrieren" as the German words appear in INPA (Factory-Level BMW Diagnostic Software) is NOTHING more than pushing a button and causing the Odometer Reading existing at the moment the button is pushed to be entered in a text field in the "NON-Volatile" Memory of the DME. That type of memory retains information even if the battery is disconnected. It's SOLE purpose is to inform a future Tech servicing the vehicle of the battery replacement history, mileage/km at which the button was pushed, up to 4 prior battery replacements (or pushes of the button by someone experimenting with INPA ;-).

https://translate.google.com/#view=h...20Registrieren

What IS important for maximum battery life is selecting the proper "Code" or "Option" for (1) the Replacement Battery TYPE (FLA vs. AGM) and (2) Battery Capacity, expressed in Ah (Amp hours). That requires a different tool than INPA. The "Tool" in BMW Standard Tools that is used to "Code" the DME, or select a different Battery Capacity OPTION, is NCS.

IF you replace a battery, for which the Correct Code/Option had been previously selected, with one of the SAME Type & Capacity, then NOTHING/ NADA/ ZILCH is needed for proper charging and performance of the new battery. So if you replaced a "Standard" FLA (Flooded Lead Acid) battery with 90 Ah capacity with ANOTHER FLA-type battery with 90 Ah Capacity, NO "Registration", "Coding", or anything else is needed. Just make sure you reconnected everything associated with the battery and IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) correctly, and you should have NO issues.

George

slattrick · 08-11-2020, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Failure to "Register" a battery will NOT cause a "No-Crank" condition in a month or two after Replacement Battery installation. "Battery Registration" is one of the most MISUNDERSTOOD technical terms in the BMW Mythology. The ACTUAL FACTS related to "Battery Registration" are discussed below, but FIRST, some suggestions on what you should do to determine WHY your car won't start NOW.

Questions/Tests:
1) WHAT is the type of the Replacement Battery you installed (FLA vs. AGM)?
2) What is the Capacity Rating of the new battery in Ah, or in RC (Reserve Capacity)?
3) What size is the case of the new battery: H7, H8, etc.? If you don't know how to tell, just take a photo or two of the new battery.
4) What Type, Capacity & Size was the OLD battery you removed & replaced?
5) Do you have a DMM (Digital Multimeter)? If so, what is the battery Voltage measured at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood? Any questions about any of these terms, just ask: It's NOT rocket science (or expensive), just some basic concepts.

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter
6) Start the engine, even if you have to Jumpstart it (after measuring & recording battery voltage), and measure the Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals AGAIN, this time with engine running and Alternator hopefully charging, and record System Voltage with engine running.
7) Shut down engine, and measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals ~ 15 minutes AFTER shutdown, and record Voltage reading.
8) Four (4) to Eight (8) hours later, measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals, and record reading, along with Hours elapsed.
9) Report back with data and we can suggest next steps.
10) When you say: "my car won't cold start unless I get it jumped" do you mean the Starter will NOT crank the engine at all if the car has sat for 4-6-8 hours?
11) Do you mean if you try to start engine within an hour or two after shutdown the Starter WILL crank the engine?
12) If the Starter does NOT crank the engine when START button is pressed with foot on Brake/Clutch, what sounds are heard and WHERE do they come from? Is there a "Ratchet-like click" of ~ 5 clicks per second, such as the Starter Solenoid makes when battery voltage is too low?
13) HOW Long does the car have to sit with engine off before the Starter just clicks?

If my understanding of your description, as reflected by questions 10 & 11, is correct, then you PROBABLY have "parasitic draw" or an electrical consumer drawing excessive current (Amps) after the car should have entered "Sleep Mode" which should occur 15 to 30 minutes after you turn Ignition OFF and exit the vehicle. The Voltage measurement tests suggested above will aid in determining "Next Steps" in diagnosing the issue. If my interpretation of your situation is NOT correct, then please provide Detailed Facts describing the situation.

Battery Registration & Changing Battery Type/Capacity "Code/Option":
"Batterietausch Registrieren" as the German words appear in INPA (Factory-Level BMW Diagnostic Software) is NOTHING more than pushing a button and causing the Odometer Reading existing at the moment the button is pushed to be entered in a text field in the "NON-Volatile" Memory of the DME. That type of memory retains information even if the battery is disconnected. It's SOLE purpose is to inform a future Tech servicing the vehicle of the battery replacement history, mileage/km at which the button was pushed, up to 4 prior battery replacements (or pushes of the button by someone experimenting with INPA ;-).

https://translate.google.com/#view=h...20Registrieren

What IS important for maximum battery life is selecting the proper "Code" or "Option" for (1) the Replacement Battery TYPE (FLA vs. AGM) and (2) Battery Capacity, expressed in Ah (Amp hours). That requires a different tool than INPA. The "Tool" in BMW Standard Tools that is used to "Code" the DME, or select a different Battery Capacity OPTION, is NCS.

IF you replace a battery, for which the Correct Code/Option had been previously selected, with one of the SAME Type & Capacity, then NOTHING/ NADA/ ZILCH is needed for proper charging and performance of the new battery. So if you replaced a "Standard" FLA (Flooded Lead Acid) battery with 90 Ah capacity with ANOTHER FLA-type battery with 90 Ah Capacity, NO "Registration", "Coding", or anything else is needed. Just make sure you reconnected everything associated with the battery and IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) correctly, and you should have NO issues.

George

Sorry for this late response, busy week and I just got the multimeter.
1) It is a "wet battery" so Flood Acid I am assuming
2) I looked it up on pep boys (where I got it) and it said "Reserve Capacity (minutes) 150" (It is a "Campion Battery")
3) H8
4) I do not remember sadly but I know it was an OEM BMW branded battery. So I am assuming the one that came with the car
5/6/7/8) I got the multimeter, I tested the voltage after the car sat overnight (so about 12 hours) after a long drive from the beach (74-mile drive) and it was no more than 6.5 volts, then I jumped it and it was above 14 volts, then I shut it off and it read 12 volts right after so I tried to start it again but it did not start so I am assuming the volts dipped down after only a few moments.
9+) And in response to your other questions it really does vary, it did not start after an hour + drive (I turned it off and tried to turn it back on when I got home, and it did not start after 12 hours sitting, it also did not start after a 5-minute drive to the gas station but DID start after my 10-minute drive to work after my 6-hour shift so its kinda is at random but 90% percent of the time it does not start. Now with the crank, if I turn off the car after any drive the car cranks for maybe a second but then does not start, and after sitting for any time, it just makes a click (the starter not getting enough power I am assuming and its a brand new starter so it is not that)
My guess is what is wrong is that I got a different battery that was not the same as the one I had before in the car, and because of that, it got overcharged from the alternator, I would like your advice on what to do next, should I just get a working used battery from a part out which is the same as the one that came with my car, if so, what is the exact specifications of the battery that came with a 2008 328i base model sedan.
Thank you,
Patrick

ctuna · 08-11-2020, 06:01 PM

did you measure the alternator voltage with the car running.
What is it.
Do you know what kind of battery was in it before you replaced
it .
There cars can be programmed for either AGM or lead acid battery's

Put a long slow charge on the battery usually takes 5 hrs plus.
Start monitoring the battery voltage overnight . Measure the battery
after charging and how much it drops over night.
There should be some kind of warranty on the battery.

ctuna · 08-11-2020, 06:04 PM

did you measure the alternator voltage with the car running.
What is it.
Do you know what kind of battery was in it before you replaced
it .
There cars can be programmed for either AGM or lead acid battery's

Put a long slow charge on the battery usually takes 5 hrs plus.
Start monitoring the battery voltage overnight . Measure the battery
after charging and how much it drops over night.
There should be some kind of warranty on the battery.

You can read what kind of battery it was programmed for with the
proper software.

marvinstockman · 08-11-2020, 06:46 PM

12 volts is low for a fully charged battery. If you have another vehicle, check voltage after sitting overnight, and compare to yours after sitting overnight. Do this to check accuracy of meter.

Also, check for loose cable connections, but if you're reading 14 volts with engine running, at the battery, you should be charging.

Check all your cable connections.

Be aware, you could be dealing with a starter with very worn brushes. When it won't start, whack the starter with a heavy broon, or shovel, handle.

slattrick · 08-11-2020, 06:54 PM

the starter is brand new, installed it last month.

slattrick · 08-11-2020, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

did you measure the alternator voltage with the car running.
What is it.
Do you know what kind of battery was in it before you replaced
it .
There cars can be programmed for either AGM or lead acid battery's

Put a long slow charge on the battery usually takes 5 hrs plus.
Start monitoring the battery voltage overnight . Measure the battery
after charging and how much it drops over night.
There should be some kind of warranty on the battery.

You can read what kind of battery it was programmed for with the
proper software.

1) when the car was running the voltage was at 14 something
2) it was the OEM BWM brand battery, so what every battery comes with a 2008 328i, which is a 70ah Flood Acid I believe but I am not sure
3) I know that and I did not recode it, it is expensive to bring to a dealership and I do not have the equipment or program

4) I drove the car for an hour and a half so it was getting charged by the alternator and after it sat overnight the voltage was at 6

5) I do not know or have the software

08-03-2020, 01:34 PM	#1
slattrick New Member 2 Rep 16 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 328i Sedan Join Date: Jun 2020 Location: Wilmington Delaware iTrader: (0)	Battery Registration And Bad Battery A month or two ago I replaced my 2008 328i starter and battery, the battery did not need to be replaced but I was wishing it was the easy way out if my car didn't need a new starter (which it did). I did not register the battery and now my car won't cold start unless I get it jumped. This has been happening for about 2 days now. I don't know what to do, do yall think I could just register the battery now and if so, how do I do that without bringing it to a bmw mechanic to charge me 150$.
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08-03-2020, 03:14 PM	#2
gbalthrop Brigadier General 2717 Rep 4,048 Posts Drives: 2007 328xi E91 Join Date: May 2017 Location: Fairfax Co, VA iTrader: (0)	Failure to "Register" a battery will NOT cause a "No-Crank" condition in a month or two after Replacement Battery installation. "Battery Registration" is one of the most MISUNDERSTOOD technical terms in the BMW Mythology. The ACTUAL FACTS related to "Battery Registration" are discussed below, but FIRST, some suggestions on what you should do to determine WHY your car won't start NOW. Questions/Tests: 1) WHAT is the type of the Replacement Battery you installed (FLA vs. AGM)? 2) What is the Capacity Rating of the new battery in Ah, or in RC (Reserve Capacity)? 3) What size is the case of the new battery: H7, H8, etc.? If you don't know how to tell, just take a photo or two of the new battery. 4) What Type, Capacity & Size was the OLD battery you removed & replaced? 5) Do you have a DMM (Digital Multimeter)? If so, what is the battery Voltage measured at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood? Any questions about any of these terms, just ask: It's NOT rocket science (or expensive), just some basic concepts. https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter 6) Start the engine, even if you have to Jumpstart it (after measuring & recording battery voltage), and measure the Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals AGAIN, this time with engine running and Alternator hopefully charging, and record System Voltage with engine running. 7) Shut down engine, and measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals ~ 15 minutes AFTER shutdown, and record Voltage reading. 8) Four (4) to Eight (8) hours later, measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals, and record reading, along with Hours elapsed. 9) Report back with data and we can suggest next steps. 10) When you say: "my car won't cold start unless I get it jumped" do you mean the Starter will NOT crank the engine at all if the car has sat for 4-6-8 hours? 11) Do you mean if you try to start engine within an hour or two after shutdown the Starter WILL crank the engine? 12) If the Starter does NOT crank the engine when START button is pressed with foot on Brake/Clutch, what sounds are heard and WHERE do they come from? Is there a "Ratchet-like click" of ~ 5 clicks per second, such as the Starter Solenoid makes when battery voltage is too low? 13) HOW Long does the car have to sit with engine off before the Starter just clicks? If my understanding of your description, as reflected by questions 10 & 11, is correct, then you PROBABLY have "parasitic draw" or an electrical consumer drawing excessive current (Amps) after the car should have entered "Sleep Mode" which should occur 15 to 30 minutes after you turn Ignition OFF and exit the vehicle. The Voltage measurement tests suggested above will aid in determining "Next Steps" in diagnosing the issue. If my interpretation of your situation is NOT correct, then please provide Detailed Facts describing the situation. Battery Registration & Changing Battery Type/Capacity "Code/Option": "Batterietausch Registrieren" as the German words appear in INPA (Factory-Level BMW Diagnostic Software) is NOTHING more than pushing a button and causing the Odometer Reading existing at the moment the button is pushed to be entered in a text field in the "NON-Volatile" Memory of the DME. That type of memory retains information even if the battery is disconnected. It's SOLE purpose is to inform a future Tech servicing the vehicle of the battery replacement history, mileage/km at which the button was pushed, up to 4 prior battery replacements (or pushes of the button by someone experimenting with INPA ;-). https://translate.google.com/#view=h...20Registrieren What IS important for maximum battery life is selecting the proper "Code" or "Option" for (1) the Replacement Battery TYPE (FLA vs. AGM) and (2) Battery Capacity, expressed in Ah (Amp hours). That requires a different tool than INPA. The "Tool" in BMW Standard Tools that is used to "Code" the DME, or select a different Battery Capacity OPTION, is NCS. IF you replace a battery, for which the Correct Code/Option had been previously selected, with one of the SAME Type & Capacity, then NOTHING/ NADA/ ZILCH is needed for proper charging and performance of the new battery. So if you replaced a "Standard" FLA (Flooded Lead Acid) battery with 90 Ah capacity with ANOTHER FLA-type battery with 90 Ah Capacity, NO "Registration", "Coding", or anything else is needed. Just make sure you reconnected everything associated with the battery and IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) correctly, and you should have NO issues. George
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08-11-2020, 06:01 PM	#4
ctuna Lieutenant General 1917 Rep 13,110 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	did you measure the alternator voltage with the car running. What is it. Do you know what kind of battery was in it before you replaced it . There cars can be programmed for either AGM or lead acid battery's Put a long slow charge on the battery usually takes 5 hrs plus. Start monitoring the battery voltage overnight . Measure the battery after charging and how much it drops over night. There should be some kind of warranty on the battery.
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08-11-2020, 06:04 PM	#5
ctuna Lieutenant General 1917 Rep 13,110 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	did you measure the alternator voltage with the car running. What is it. Do you know what kind of battery was in it before you replaced it . There cars can be programmed for either AGM or lead acid battery's Put a long slow charge on the battery usually takes 5 hrs plus. Start monitoring the battery voltage overnight . Measure the battery after charging and how much it drops over night. There should be some kind of warranty on the battery. You can read what kind of battery it was programmed for with the proper software.
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08-11-2020, 06:46 PM	#6
marvinstockman Major 399 Rep 1,080 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 328i Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Rockville, MD iTrader: (0)	12 volts is low for a fully charged battery. If you have another vehicle, check voltage after sitting overnight, and compare to yours after sitting overnight. Do this to check accuracy of meter. Also, check for loose cable connections, but if you're reading 14 volts with engine running, at the battery, you should be charging. Check all your cable connections. Be aware, you could be dealing with a starter with very worn brushes. When it won't start, whack the starter with a heavy broon, or shovel, handle.
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08-11-2020, 06:54 PM	#7
slattrick New Member 2 Rep 16 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 328i Sedan Join Date: Jun 2020 Location: Wilmington Delaware iTrader: (0)	the starter is brand new, installed it last month.
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