[Tyc0]

Hello ! Mentioned I would be doing RB two install myself and everyone said they would like a write up.


Day 1: Today I spent six hours dropping the subframe and oil pan gasket. I used the ECS tuning video on YouTube and followed step by step, so far no problems. A few things I ran into that I was not expecting had to do with the oil pan. I was unaware that you have to remove a pulley (vacuum pump? Not sure) it was only two bolts on the driver side of the pan so not a big deal. Another thing I was unaware of was that the bell housing has multiple through bolts into the pan, also not a big deal, just didn't know. The only actual problem I have so far has to do with the ride height sensor. While dropping the subframe the plug for the sensor was caught and ripped out, one of the pins were bent and the connector itself was damaged. I tried to bend the pins back but I was unable to get the connector to reseat. I'd appreciate input on what this will do to the car if I don't manage to fix it. That's about it for day one, so far the job is fairly easy just tedious and time consuming. I'll update with my progress for day 2 tomorrow!

Day 2: this job is very hard, got my ass kicked today. Worked for 7 hours straight and was able to get rod bearings done along with putting the pan back in. The bearings were okay, but I'm glad I did them for sure(I forgot to take a picture of the bearings but I'll get one tomorrow), the lowers were all perfect while all the uppers were starting to show color. If you do this job yourself, be VERY careful with the oil splash tray bolts, the spec is 7.5 ft lbs and my torque wrench barely even clicks on such a low setting. The turbos are both currently only connected by the oil in line, turns out it's IMPOSSIBLE to get out. I had a very hard time getting any of the coolant/ oil lines out of the turbos, they are very tight and do not wanna move. If you do this yourself WD-40 is your best friend. Other than that I had no problems today, plan on getting the turbos and inlets in tomorrow and start wrapping things up.

Day 3: Today I got the new turbos all the way in, new o rings on every seal, and got the inlets in place. Honestly not very much to talk about today, very straight forward work, just tedious with all those studs. It was another 7 hour day and I have about 2 hours of buttoning the sub frame up and then I'm done !

Day 4: Today my starting point was the turbos in and all the lines installed, by the end of today I was able to get the subframe back in with all the arms connected. I had a few very irritating things happen. First, with the engine no longer being held in the perfect position(because it's on a support bar, probably 2-3 inches lower) the outlet to FMIC hose was completely impossible to lineup. Second, the front turbo outlet clamp is also very difficult to get on, it took me three hours. I tried from the top and bottom, and eventually made my two friends give it a go, and was finally able to get it on. It is just so tight up there because of the outlet, they do pre dent the pipe to create clearance, but it is not much. Lastly, while I was stretching open the rear turbo down pipe clamp, I snapped it in half. Now I don't think the motion I made was excessive, but obviously it was too much, I was able to weld it back together.

Conclusion: I have a few things left to do but they aren't really related to the job, so here's what I have to say about this. It is VERY difficult, you cannot do it alone (at least the subframe parts). If I were going into this job I would set aside at least 5 days if your in my shoes and have never gone this far into a car before. I would not discourage someone from doing this, but I could see how someone who wasn't very motivated and who doesn't have excess time would easily bite off more than they can chew. The job itself is fairly straightforward, but tedious and like I said time consuming. To be honest if I were to do this again I would 100% drop the engine and save my hands from the dozens of cuts and loss of cuticles.

If anyone has any questions I'm happy to help !

ps..I'm 18, if I can do it you can, go get dirty!

[Glene]

I replaced rod bearings couple of weeks ago. Also using standard King bearings. After you torque the end caps, plus 140 degrees but do 70 degrees each time. Since you have the subframe dropped, best time to check engine mounts and water pump, if they old, replace them. Also, your headlamp leveling system won't work right if the suspension height sensor busted. it may trigger a message idrive.

[BSM n54iS]

Will be following, I'm looking to do the same upgrades soon(ish)

[Rickygst]

I'm in the process of finishing up my turbo install and oil pan gasket change. Not sure how many miles is on your engine but I would check the oil pump bolts. I had one that was broken off. Had I not put a wrench on them to check that they was still tight I would have missed it. Since you are changing the rod bearing you will have to remove the pump anyway. It will require new bolts since they are one time use. Good luck

[mweisdorfer]

How long do you plan to run the new oil with the assembly lube in it, from the rod bearings?

I'm thinking maybe 1500 miles myself but IDK. I'm just sort of considering it a break in oil once the assembly lube is on there.

[Tyc0]

One question, what the hell is this white crystal stuff in my coolant passage ? I only run BMW coolant with water 50/50.

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

One question, what the hell is this white crystal stuff in my coolant passage ? I only run BMW coolant with water 50/50.

Looks like dried out coolant

[Tyc0]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

How long do you plan to run the new oil with the assembly lube in it, from the rod bearings?

I'm thinking maybe 1500 miles myself but IDK. I'm just sort of considering it a break in oil once the assembly lube is on there.

To be honest I really don't think the small amount of assembly lube will do anything to almost 8 quarts of oil, but if you know something I don't please tell me !

[BSM n54iS]

Curious how those RB inlets fit up, in particular the front one. It was pointed out to me his inlets are the only ones that have the small double 45* on the front inlet to avoid the pulley's and no zip tie necessary..

[Tyc0]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

Curious how those RB inlets fit up, in particular the front one. It was pointed out to me his inlets are the only ones that have the small double 45* on the front inlet to avoid the pulley's and no zip tie necessary..

I noticed that ! At first I was looking in there wondering how the hell it was gonna stay away from the pulleys. But low and behold it fits PERFECT.

[Tyc0]

Update: I messed something up doing the bearings, I now have rod knock. Maybe I should've left that part to someone who knows what their doing.

[iqraceworks]

Unfortunately.....there is probably a much greater chance of making a mistake replacing the rod bearings, than having issues with the OEM bearings. Rod bearing issues in N54's isn't very common.

That's never good news after putting in all of that work.....

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

How long do you plan to run the new oil with the assembly lube in it, from the rod bearings?

I'm thinking maybe 1500 miles myself but IDK. I'm just sort of considering it a break in oil once the assembly lube is on there.

Vehicular said he was gonna change right after first startup to get rid of all the assembly lube in his video, I'd do the same.

[Ozzie335i]

"Rod bearing issues in N54's isn't very common."

Apparently you are new here. There have been many failures after guys have had leaky injector problems thinning out the oil. There also was one case of a guy going with the King bearings, where he was unable to turn the crank after swapping one bearing. It turned out the size was tighter than indicated on the box. Going to this extreme I sincerely hope that Tyc0 did a measurement on all of the bearings during the installation so as to not have this happen. If not, that may be the cause.

[Tyc0]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

"Rod bearing issues in N54's isn't very common."

Apparently you are new here. There have been many failures after guys have had leaky injector problems thinning out the oil. There also was one case of a guy going with the King bearings, where he was unable to turn the crank after swapping one bearing. It turned out the size was tighter than indicated on the box. Going to this extreme I sincerely hope that Tyc0 did a measurement on all of the bearings during the installation so as to not have this happen. If not, that may be the cause.

I don't believe he's new..but that's exactly why I did them, it happens sometimes and the 150 in insurance to know it won't was my motive...but then I paid 150 to blow them myself

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

"Rod bearing issues in N54's isn't very common."

Apparently you are new here. There have been many failures after guys have had leaky injector problems thinning out the oil. There also was one case of a guy going with the King bearings, where he was unable to turn the crank after swapping one bearing. It turned out the size was tighter than indicated on the box. Going to this extreme I sincerely hope that Tyc0 did a measurement on all of the bearings during the installation so as to not have this happen. If not, that may be the cause.

So you are saying that when people have rod bearing issues.....it's after they change them out for aftermarket bearings that might have tolerance issues?? Or when people don't maintain their cars properly and run them for long periods with leaky injectors??

Yeah....like I said....OEM rod bearing issues in N54's are not very common......and long as you don't swap them out with out of tolerance aftermarket bearings, and/or maintain the motors properly.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

So you are saying that when people have rod bearing issues.....it's after they change them out for aftermarket bearings that might have tolerance issues?? Or when people don't maintain their cars properly and run them for long periods with leaky injectors??

Yeah....like I said....OEM rod bearing issues in N54's are not very common......and long as you don't swap them out with out of tolerance aftermarket bearings, and/or maintain the motors properly.

Like you said? Where do you come up with all of this? I would really like to know.

[Foghorn]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Yeah....like I said....OEM rod bearing issues in N54's are not very common..

It’s far more common than you think...

[El Cheapo Loco]

18 yo doing this job by yourself are you kidding me rn? You've got my respect kiddo. Kudos to you.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Foghorn

It’s far more common than you think...

Correction: more common than he knows!

[Tyc0]

Originally Posted by El Cheapo Loco

18 yo doing this job by yourself are you kidding me rn? You've got my respect kiddo. Kudos to you.

I wanted to go fast 🤷