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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > 3er N52 Engine Dev 2004-2007



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      10-31-2020, 06:35 PM   #1
Prala
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3er N52 Engine Dev 2004-2007

Hi, i have a problem and i hope you can help me with this. Cant find any Information about that here. I need Information about Piston and Conrod change on 09/2006 for my N52B30A.
Piston part number - 09/2006 11257536373
and since 09/2006 the part number is 11257558528 same on conrod.

According to Leebmann in Germany the weight has changed from both, Piston is now less and the conrod is heavier. Up to here is no Problem. You can order the old and new partnumber, but if you order the Mahle OE Piston you get the same no matter which Piston and rod is installed on your system. I already requested the information on Mahle Aftermarket how that can be possible, but they are on home office. It is possible to install 11257558528 with "old" partnumbers? Can anyone tell me what i need to know?
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      11-01-2020, 01:06 AM   #2
E92William
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What are you trying to do? As per realoem the piston and rods actually change in 06/2006 instead of 09 meaning your car would have the updated part number internals.

As you can see there the pistons do have a minuscule difference in weight about 0.02 kg which doesn't seem like much but being balanced to the rod means it won't be a balanced assembly if you put updated pistons which are that much heavier and happen to have the earlier rods. Also you're right at 09/2006 car which happens to be the time they started using the newer part number rods for this engine which I guess means you can't be fully certain of which rods you have unless you open the engine and check the part number on them. N52 piston/rod assemblies are cheap enough to not even need to bother and just buy both together

Maybe the weight difference isn't big enough for mahle to make a specific heavier pisron
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      11-01-2020, 10:30 AM   #3
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thanks for your post. on weekend i will disassemble my engine. the background is a broken DISA shaft, this was sucked in on 6. cylinder and damaged the piston head. I wanted to have all the parts there before the disassemble the whole engine. now i have a new Mahle piston (OE) and two genuine BMW before 09/2006, w/ piston rings w/o bolt all weight the same (330g). Cant find any changes... at weekend i can say more about the installed one.

Dmg'ed Piston attached.
Intake valve captured shaft attached.


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      11-01-2020, 11:41 AM   #4
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Wow that's very bad. What are the last 3 numbers of your disas part number? Is that a metal or plastic pin? This is why when I rebuilt the ones in my car I basically plastic welded the shaft to the flap so there's no chance it can get in a runner.

You will likely not be able to see a difference in weight yourself as in the website it says 0.02 kg which is barely anything and the website could be wrong too. I would pull out the piston and check it's part number and just replace with the same unit since you have the two options, keep an eye out you might need valves and guides too, good time to put updated hydraulic lifters in the head, also check the bearings because my neighbor had VW CC out of time he was working on and it had dropped a valve and it crushed it against the head but this caused it to crush the rod bearing and cause it to spin too.
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      11-01-2020, 01:05 PM   #5
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Disa Metal Pin
Partnumber 7522929
If you are rebuilt your system think about vanosbmw, they have a disa kit. its very nice. russian people.




on bmwfans the pistons have a 100g differnce in weight. on realoem and leebman 0.02kg
checked one piston from bmw, bought on ebay, cant find any part numbers... its not easy , but as you said i will pull it out and check the numbers on it. maybe i drive to our bmw dealer and order this piston. i will check the whole engine, i already ordered 2 new adjustment units for in and outlet camshaft. i think about renew timing chain, but never heared about problems with that on a n52. bad story about vw cc. keep your eyes open.
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      11-03-2020, 10:16 PM   #6
E92William
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A 929 revision valve is usually the large first model valve. Weakest disa design as the shaft on the top is hollow plastic so it can crumble against the bearing surface on top of the valve way easier as it wears and it's also shorter so it has less contact area with the surface. When I get valves from used manifolds if there is one broken it's always the early valves like that. Shame yours took a crap. Here's a comparison between a 928 small valve shaft and a 538, same design just for the smaller valves. I have no idea why your 929 has a metal top pin unless it's a Chinese valve of some sort as only 537 and some 114 come with metal pins.

I don't think you need to deal with the timing chain at all as the n52 rarely has issues with it but If you want to do it preventively it's fine, this is not a VAG product where the timing chains last less than timing belts lol. Take it apart and order the exact same piston and a bearing set too while you're there
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      11-07-2020, 11:21 AM   #7
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Thanks for your Disa Info Post.
I talked to Mahle last week, they confirm that you can use OE Piston for both part numbers.

Now i have a big update on my engine.
youre right the 929 disa comes with a plastic shaft, i removed it from the valve.
my new disa has number 537.



as you can see the shaft flattened from valve. nothing happened to valve according to leak test and cylinder...its only oilcoal on the endoscope img above, feel lucky. now i work on cylinderhead and engine cleaning.

img's after cylinderhead removal (3 broken cylinderhead bolts and 1 broken valve cover bolt)



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      11-07-2020, 06:00 PM   #8
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The benefit of the plastic one is that it won't bend the valve. Why did you take off the head then? That shaft snapped pretty bad. Check if you can see a wear spot on the part where it snapped. I guess while you have everything apart it's a good time to fit the new updated hydraulic lifters to your engine while you're there so you won't have ticking in the future. The early n52s have rep for snapping outer head bolts

537 is split metal top rod that goes to half the valve and plastic bottom. It should last quite a long time, if you can, put some grease on the top of the shaft so that there's some lubrication there for longevity. Is it a Chinese one or what brand?
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      11-07-2020, 11:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92William View Post
The benefit of the plastic one is that it won't bend the valve. Why did you take off the head then? That shaft snapped pretty bad. Check if you can see a wear spot on the part where it snapped. I guess while you have everything apart it's a good time to fit the new updated hydraulic lifters to your engine while you're there so you won't have ticking in the future. The early n52s have rep for snapping outer head bolts

537 is split metal top rod that goes to half the valve and plastic bottom. It should last quite a long time, if you can, put some grease on the top of the shaft so that there's some lubrication there for longevity. Is it a Chinese one or what brand?
What's the difference between the 537 and the latest 114? My car has the 537 buy I have a spare 114 that came with a spare manifold that I bought.
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      11-07-2020, 11:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowrydr310 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by E92William View Post
The benefit of the plastic one is that it won't bend the valve. Why did you take off the head then? That shaft snapped pretty bad. Check if you can see a wear spot on the part where it snapped. I guess while you have everything apart it's a good time to fit the new updated hydraulic lifters to your engine while you're there so you won't have ticking in the future. The early n52s have rep for snapping outer head bolts

537 is split metal top rod that goes to half the valve and plastic bottom. It should last quite a long time, if you can, put some grease on the top of the shaft so that there's some lubrication there for longevity. Is it a Chinese one or what brand?
What's the difference between the 537 and the latest 114? My car has the 537 buy I have a spare 114 that came with a spare manifold that I bought.
The 114 is a full plastic shaft just like the 929 but it isn't hollow at the point where it contacts the top of the valve so it's stronger but it can still wear since it's plastic and have a bit of visible play. Check it though because it's not the first time I've seen a 114 with a 537 shaft design lol. It's more about avoiding early revision valves and having something that has no play and actuates perfectly in my book.
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      11-11-2020, 11:46 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92William View Post
The benefit of the plastic one is that it won't bend the valve. Why did you take off the head then? That shaft snapped pretty bad. Check if you can see a wear spot on the part where it snapped. I guess while you have everything apart it's a good time to fit the new updated hydraulic lifters to your engine while you're there so you won't have ticking in the future. The early n52s have rep for snapping outer head bolts

537 is split metal top rod that goes to half the valve and plastic bottom. It should last quite a long time, if you can, put some grease on the top of the shaft so that there's some lubrication there for longevity. Is it a Chinese one or what brand?
my new disa is a original bmw brand.

new updated hydraulic lifters? cant find updated version.
the compensating element on camshaft inlet are from 2004 - 2019.
do you talk about outlet camshaft lifters? from 2009? https://www.realoem.com/bmw/de/part?...&q=11337605330
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      11-11-2020, 12:22 PM   #12
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Yes, the lifters notorious for tapping are the exhaust "outlet" cam lifters. If you're in there and you feel the tapping would bother you, and you have the money, it may not be a bad idea to replace them, but on the other hand, I'm at 107k on my 06' 330i with the original lifters, without any persistent tapping. Every few months it'll have a bit of an episode, but it always goes away after a drive.

I've heard that in some cases they can actually collapse due to the spring inside breaking, which may make replacing them a good idea, but I'm not completely sure on that.

Last edited by JonOhh; 11-11-2020 at 12:27 PM..
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      11-11-2020, 12:40 PM   #13
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No problems with lifters at this time, but i will renew at a draught.
now i search for a option to getoff the retainer springs w/o special tools like this on img. do u have any idea?
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      11-12-2020, 03:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92William View Post
The 114 is a full plastic shaft just like the 929 but it isn't hollow at the point where it contacts the top of the valve so it's stronger but it can still wear since it's plastic and have a bit of visible play. Check it though because it's not the first time I've seen a 114 with a 537 shaft design lol. It's more about avoiding early revision valves and having something that has no play and actuates perfectly in my book.
I may pull the valve and replace it with my spare. I've seen many valves from several manifolds that I obtained and most of them had broken shafts or torn gaskets. There's a date of manufacture code on these valves. The ones on my car were made in 2005, the spares I have were made in 2011 and the gaskets look new.
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      11-12-2020, 03:30 PM   #15
E92William
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowrydr310 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by E92William View Post
The 114 is a full plastic shaft just like the 929 but it isn't hollow at the point where it contacts the top of the valve so it's stronger but it can still wear since it's plastic and have a bit of visible play. Check it though because it's not the first time I've seen a 114 with a 537 shaft design lol. It's more about avoiding early revision valves and having something that has no play and actuates perfectly in my book.
I may pull the valve and replace it with my spare. I've seen many valves from several manifolds that I obtained and most of them had broken shafts or torn gaskets. There's a date of manufacture code on these valves. The ones on my car were made in 2005, the spares I have were made in 2011 and the gaskets look new.
Where is the date of manufacturing located on yours? I have seen them on mines but some of them don't have them at all
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      11-14-2020, 05:10 AM   #16
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Unfortunately, the valve seat has been damaged, now I'm giving the head to be repaired.
ordered the tool above few days earlier, it doesnt work w/o it.
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      11-14-2020, 05:29 AM   #17
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