[335iNavyGuy]

Ok, So its been a couple of months since a real update. Sorry about that.

Between life, and a few ECU issues there may have been some brakes..

So after my last main update, I had the car running. Very very shortly after that it stopped starting, would just crank over. So i stopped trying to start it and went into DME replacement mode.

Turns out the main problem was water in the lines, in the tank, and a fuel pump that died on me.

Found a fuel pump for 50$, disconnected some lines, pumped out the water until i had clean fuel coming out and boom! Fired back up again.

Took a few starts and revs to get all of the water out of the Exhaust, I am now confident ALL of the water is out of the car now.


Next set of issues:
Stereo INOP (Purchased)
LCD INOP (Purchased)
Amplifier INOP (Need to purchase)
Gear Selector Switch INOP (Purchased)
Climate Control Board INOP (Purchased)


If anyone has a good line on a Logc 7 AMP for a 2016 ish let me know!



Thanks for checking out my project.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njLV...ature=youtu.be

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by 335iNavyGuy

Next set of issues:
Stereo INOP (Purchased)
LCD INOP (Purchased)
Amplifier INOP (Need to purchase)
Gear Selector Switch INOP (Purchased)
Climate Control Board INOP (Purchased)

It seems a little ironic that almost all of your modules hanging off the multi-media harness (BMW calls it the "audio" harness) in your F10 are not working....so when you say the above units don't work, do you mean they ALL have +12VDC and their functionality are compromised? This would allow you to run ISTA and determine if they are really failed due to water, and see if a firmware write (not coding...) would recover the units, else maybe you have a ground corrosion issue on the harness...just saying...

BTW, the "Main" harness routed in your vehicle is a separate harness from the "audio" harness....

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

It seems a little ironic that almost all of your modules hanging off the multi-media harness (BMW calls it the "audio" harness) in your F10 are not working....so when you say the above units don't work, do you mean they ALL have +12VDC and their functionality are compromised? This would allow you to run ISTA and determine if they are really failed due to water, and see if a firmware write (not coding...) would recover the units, else maybe you have a ground corrosion issue on the harness...just saying...

BTW, the "Main" harness routed in your vehicle is a separate harness from the "audio" harness....

Good thought, I was going to check power to them a bit later today.

So far None of the radio related components have any power shown

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

It seems a little ironic that almost all of your modules hanging off the multi-media harness (BMW calls it the "audio" harness) in your F10 are not working....so when you say the above units don't work, do you mean they ALL have +12VDC and their functionality are compromised? This would allow you to run ISTA and determine if they are really failed due to water, and see if a firmware write (not coding...) would recover the units, else maybe you have a ground corrosion issue on the harness...just saying...

BTW, the "Main" harness routed in your vehicle is a separate harness from the "audio" harness....

Also so far, none of the grounds or wires ive found have any corrosion on them

[M_Bimmer]

Hmm...if you need some help I can provide fuse locations to the primary "audio" harness...

The Power (+12DC) are all run along the left side of the trunk (looking into the trunk), and run underneath the rear trunk plastic trim over to the fuse box on the right rear side of the trunk....


BTW....

A95 = HVAC Controller Center Dash = Fuse F11 7.5A @ Z1 location
A236 = Hi-Fi Amplifier = Fuse F120 5A @ Z2 location AND Fuse 509 50A @ Z3 location
A233 = Active Sound = Fuse F119 15A @ Z2 location
A42 = Head Unit = F119 15A @ Z2 location
S45 = Gear Shift Module (GWS) = Fuse F64 7.5A @ Z1 location

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Hmm...if you need some help I can provide fuse locations to the primary "audio" harness...

The Power (+12DC) are all run along the left side of the trunk (looking into the trunk), and run underneath the rear trunk plastic trim over to the fuse box on the right rear side of the trunk....


BTW....

A95 = HVAC Controller Center Dash = Fuse F11 7.5A @ Z1 location
A236 = Hi-Fi Amplifier = Fuse F120 5A @ Z2 location AND Fuse 509 50A @ Z3 location
A233 = Active Sound = Fuse F119 15A @ Z2 location
A42 = Head Unit = F119 15A @ Z2 location
S45 = Gear Shift Module (GWS) = Fuse F64 7.5A @ Z1 location

I dont quite understand the locations of Z1 / Z2, guessing those are the fuse box notations?

[M_Bimmer]

Here you go....

A95 = HVAC Controller Center Dash = Fuse F11 7.5A @ Z1*13B
A236 = Hi-Fi Amplifier = Fuse F120 5A @ Z2*10B Pin 9 location AND Fuse 509 50A @ Z3*5B Pin 1 location
A233 = Active Sound = Fuse F119 15A @ Z2*10B Pin 8 location
A42 = Head Unit = F119 15A @ Z2*10B Pin 8 location
S45 = Gear Shift Module (GWS) = Fuse F64 7.5A @ Z1*8B location

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Here you go....

A95 = HVAC Controller Center Dash = Fuse F11 7.5A @ Z1*13B
A236 = Hi-Fi Amplifier = Fuse F120 5A @ Z2*10B Pin 9 location AND Fuse 509 50A @ Z3*5B Pin 1 location
A233 = Active Sound = Fuse F119 15A @ Z2*10B Pin 8 location
A42 = Head Unit = F119 15A @ Z2*10B Pin 8 location
S45 = Gear Shift Module (GWS) = Fuse F64 7.5A @ Z1*8B location

Oh man super helpful, thanks for taking the time to literally draw it out!

[M_Bimmer]

The wiring to (or from) the fuse panels, are easily removable from the rear of the fuse panels (both Z1 and Z2)....so it'll be rather easy to disconnect and check for continuity...looks like you should focus on Z2*10B connector...

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

The wiring to (or from) the fuse panels, are easily removable from the rear of the fuse panels (both Z1 and Z2)....so it'll be rather easy to disconnect and check for continuity...looks like you should focus on Z2*10B connector...

Yeah im aware on that one, One of my first steps was to replace both fuse panels entirely just to avoid corrosion issues later on

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

The wiring to (or from) the fuse panels, are easily removable from the rear of the fuse panels (both Z1 and Z2)....so it'll be rather easy to disconnect and check for continuity...looks like you should focus on Z2*10B connector...

Wiring is fine overall, had some blown fuses replaced them and nothing Came on, but the Amp itsself gave off a rather distinct bad electronics smell.

I did take apart all 3 of the units in the back left a couple months ago and cleaned them all with Alcohol and a tooth brush to remove all the corrosion.

Didnt seem to save them

[M_Bimmer]

Keep us posted.....

If you were still local, I'd lend a hand....and help repair those electronics....

You could try and bake them at 100F-125F for an hour...that temp will not hurt the components, but will bake out the water trapped under the IC's....you have nothing to loose anyways....

The right way would to have the circuit cards ultrasonically cleaned, then baked out.....Circuit cards are washed as apart of the process in the industry...

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Keep us posted.....

If you were still local, I'd lend a hand....and help repair those electronics....

You could try and bake them at 100F-125F for an hour...that temp will not hurt the components, but will bake out the water trapped under the IC's....you have nothing to loose anyways....

The right way would to have the circuit cards ultrasonically cleaned, then baked out.....Circuit cards are washed as apart of the process in the industry...

I completely disassembled every unit back there and hand cleaned them and sun dried. 100% dry guaranteed, I was an Aviation electrician in the Navy and went to college for aerospace specified in electronics so dealing with electronics is definitely something im good at. But the programming and finding the schematics is where im struggling on this car for sure. But getting there.

[Jamesmick]

Originally Posted by 335iNavyGuy

If anyone has a good line on a Logc 7 AMP for a 2016 ish let me know!

I replaced the amp in my 2012 535i. I'm not sure what kind of amp it is, but I still have the stock amp in the garage. I have no idea if it is the same or if it will work for you, but if it will, please let me know as I would rather it go to a good home than continue to sit in my garage.

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by Jamesmick

I replaced the amp in my 2012 535i. I'm not sure what kind of amp it is, but I still have the stock amp in the garage. I have no idea if it is the same or if it will work for you, but if it will, please let me know as I would rather it go to a good home than continue to sit in my garage.

Hey, can you take some pictures of it? That would be super helpful

[Jamesmick]

Originally Posted by 335iNavyGuy

Hey, can you take some pictures of it? That would be super helpful

Sure, hopefully I'll be home early enough tonight to snap a few. I'll upload them when I am home long enough to do so. Cheers.