[drummr8]

So I just did the walnut blast on my valves on my 2012 x5 35i (N55). At the same time, I replaced the valve cover since I developed the squeal from the seals, indicating the PCV valve was done for. Starter was also replaced while IM was off.

The negative battery cable managed to un-wedge itself and reconnect to the battery at some point and I didn't realize it, meaning the DME got disconnected while the battery was still hooked up. The battery got deeply discharged and I replaced it with a new Duracell Platinum AGM.

After finishing the work and reconnecting everything, the car will crank but not start. It sounds like it's trying to but can't.

FUEL - rail is pressurized at .5MPa, and fuel can be seen/smelled on spark plugs
SPARK - I pulled a coil and used an old plug, grounded to the chassis and cranked the car. There IS spark, but it looked a little yellow (inefficient/weak?)
AIR - I can't think of any reason I wouldn't have air...

There are no codes from the DME and I'm able to flash the DME no problem with MHD.

Please help.

[bmw335ie90]

Originally Posted by drummr8

So I just did the walnut blast on my valves on my 2012 x5 35i (N55). The negative battery cable managed to unwedge itself and reconnect to the battery at some point and I didn't realize it. When I try to power the car on, it just comes up with the "Park" message in the kombi and nothing else other than the headlights powers on. No idrive, no hud, no kombi. Key system is not responding, I can't even open the hatch.

Where should I start? I'm guessing there's probably a fuse blown somewhere, but I'm not sure where I should check first.

Here's my readout and codes from MHD:
DME active codes -
3BC7 - No message (terminal status, 0x130), DME receiver, CAS transmitter.
3BC8 - Message (TERMINAL STATUS, 0x130) checksum error, receiver DME/DDE, transmitter CAS.
3BCD - Message (status KOMBI, 0x1B4) not up to date, receiver DME, transmitter KOMBI.
3BCE - No message (status KOMBI, 0x1B4), receiver DME, transmitter KOMBI.
CD86 - No message (terminal status, 0x130), DME receiver, CAS transmitter.

- Misc. information -
MHD build: version 2.25
Voltage 11.87V
Last flashed file : v1.60 stg 2 plus 93_98
VIN: 5UXZV4C55CL760370
CAS VIN: 5UXZV4C55CL760370
HW: 98G0B
Factory software: 7637850
Current software: 8624882
ECU status: Normal operation

- Readiness -
Misfire: Complete.
Fuel System: Complete.
Components: Complete.
Catalyst: Not avail.
Heated Catalyst: Not avail.
Evaporative System: INCOMPLETE.
Secondary Air System: Not avail.
A/C Refrigerant: Not avail.
Oxygen Sensor: INCOMPLETE.
Oxygen Sensor Heater: INCOMPLETE.
EGR System: INCOMPLETE
Edit/Delete Message Reply With Quote Multi-Quote This Message Quick reply to this message

Check that the three large electrical connectors under the intake manifold are correctly seating all the way down. It's very common to have one of them not fully plug in when putting it back together and it causes all sorts of faults.

[drummr8]

Originally Posted by bmw335ie90

Check that the three large electrical connectors under the intake manifold are correctly seating all the way down. It's very common to have one of them not fully plug in when putting it back together and it causes all sorts of faults.

Yeah that was my first thought as well. I checked and reseated them and they're good. I even double checked that they're in the correct order because someone mentioned two of them are able to be swapped. Is there a fuse specific to the DME that I should be checking?

[drummr8]

Could having the battery hooked up while disconnecting all that stuff around the IM cause the battery to fail/die? Now I have a rapid flashing hazard light and I can hear a relay from the rear fuse box clicking rapidly. The key is stuck in the ignition.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by drummr8

Could having the battery hooked up while disconnecting all that stuff around the IM cause the battery to fail/die? Now I have a rapid flashing hazard light and I can hear a relay from the rear fuse box clicking rapidly. The key is stuck in the ignition.

Well first things first. You mentioned maybe a blown fuse but didn't check them, I'd do that. Actually might be it since re-connecting over and over or something maybe blew a fuse. Make sure you don't stop at the first fuse either to make sure.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by drummr8

Could having the battery hooked up while disconnecting all that stuff around the IM cause the battery to fail/die? Now I have a rapid flashing hazard light and I can hear a relay from the rear fuse box clicking rapidly. The key is stuck in the ignition.

I'm thinking hypothetically maybe a module maybe fried part of the ordeal. But it's a bit early to tell, if all your fuses check out and the battery had good voltage/fully charged and for example you scan with ISTA and some modules are red that could indicate that.

[drummr8]

I did check all fuses and none are blown. The battery was reading only 7 volts so I put my trickle charger (battery tender) on it. If the battery recovers from this trickle charge then I'll see if I can get ista to communicate. I was having trouble with my cable but got it working again. I also thought a fried module but it seems more like a power issue since so many things are 'down'

The battery is 4 years old at this point so I'll probably just replace it anyway just to be sure I'm dealing with a good battery.

[drummr8]

Bump - I've updated my original post with new information. The car will crank no problem but will not start. There are no codes related to the engine, just something related to the steering angle (probably due to the battery dying).

[xeautosport]

Originally Posted by drummr8

I did check all fuses and none are blown. The battery was reading only 7 volts so I put my trickle charger (battery tender) on it. If the battery recovers from this trickle charge then I'll see if I can get ista to communicate. I was having trouble with my cable but got it working again. I also thought a fried module but it seems more like a power issue since so many things are 'down'

The battery is 4 years old at this point so I'll probably just replace it anyway just to be sure I'm dealing with a good battery.

Did you check the fuse on the left side of engine bay? I didn't know there were fuses in that until I looked it up.

[drummr8]

Originally Posted by xeautosport

Did you check the fuse on the left side of engine bay? I didn't know there were fuses in that until I looked it up.

I don't think I have fuses there, not that I can find at least. This is an X5 though, not E90.

[drummr8]

bump

[dgausa]

drummr8 currently going through the same issue with my 2012 E71, firs symptom the engine floods, have dried and clean the spark plugs blow air into the cylinder and that disconnected the fuel pump and I get where it wants to start, but as soon as I plug the fuel pump back it floods again, let me know if you find a aolution.

[Tawz123]

Originally Posted by dgausa

drummr8 currently going through the same issue with my 2012 E71, firs symptom the engine floods, have dried and clean the spark plugs blow air into the cylinder and that disconnected the fuel pump and I get where it wants to start, but as soon as I plug the fuel pump back it floods again, let me know if you find a aolution.

Yes I got the same issue on my E93 n43b20a replaced the chain and removed the intake manifold to lock the crank. It's cranks well but doesn't start just floods immediately checked compression which is good got spark. But the hpfp only reading at 6230 hpa which is far too low for a direct injection system. Only clues guys???

[drummr8]

Originally Posted by dgausa

drummr8 currently going through the same issue with my 2012 E71, firs symptom the engine floods, have dried and clean the spark plugs blow air into the cylinder and that disconnected the fuel pump and I get where it wants to start, but as soon as I plug the fuel pump back it floods again, let me know if you find a aolution.

Unfortunately I haven't had more time to mess around with it and we've been back in the E91 as our family car for the time being. I may just end up taking the E70 to a shop... hopefully it doesn't cost a gazillion labor hours.

[F31B48]

Originally Posted by drummr8

So I just did the walnut blast on my valves on my 2012 x5 35i (N55). At the same time, I replaced the valve cover since I developed the squeal from the seals, indicating the PCV valve was done for. Starter was also replaced while IM was off.

The negative battery cable managed to un-wedge itself and reconnect to the battery at some point and I didn't realize it, meaning the DME got disconnected while the battery was still hooked up. The battery got deeply discharged and I replaced it with a new Duracell Platinum AGM.

After finishing the work and reconnecting everything, the car will crank but not start. It sounds like it's trying to but can't.

FUEL - rail is pressurized at .5MPa, and fuel can be seen/smelled on spark plugs
SPARK - I pulled a coil and used an old plug, grounded to the chassis and cranked the car. There IS spark, but it looked a little yellow (inefficient/weak?)
AIR - I can't think of any reason I wouldn't have air...

There are no codes from the DME and I'm able to flash the DME no problem with MHD.

Please help.

If you have just done a walnut blast i would almost guarantee that there is a few bits of walnut stuck under the valves and they are creating low compression in the cylinders, hence the no start.

Can you post a video of it cranking over?

[drummr8]

See video here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zj9fj2iQCME3AsBr8

[F31B48]

Originally Posted by drummr8

See video here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zj9fj2iQCME3AsBr8

It sounds flooded to me. I would try removing the spark plugs, then unplugging all injectors and cranking the engine over for about 5 seconds to clear all the fuel in the cylinders.

How old are the spark plugs? Maybe put a new set in if they are old or shitty.

[drummr8]

The plugs are fairly new, less than 10k miles. They are pretty fouled up now after this fiasco. I pulled two plugs at the time of making this video and put my scope down in the cylinder and there is not a bunch of fuel sitting there, so I don't think it's flooded.

[F31B48]

Originally Posted by drummr8

The plugs are fairly new, less than 10k miles. They are pretty fouled up now after this fiasco. I pulled two plugs at the time of making this video and put my scope down in the cylinder and there is not a bunch of fuel sitting there, so I don't think it's flooded.

If the plugs are fouled up then it's not going to start and that would suggest it is floooded, so why not put a new set in and give what i suggested a try? Your only other option at this point is towing it to the shop and paying them.

If they see the plugs are all fouled and wet i guarantee they will want to replace them.

[drummr8]

Originally Posted by EvaBmw

If the plugs are fouled up then it's not going to start and that would suggest it is floooded, so why not put a new set in and give what i suggested a try? Your only other option at this point is towing it to the shop and paying them.

If they see the plugs are all fouled and wet i guarantee they will want to replace them.

Sorry but I don't see how this would really help anything... When this started, it acted the same as it does now... replacing the plugs and clearing any fuel just would put me back to where I was at the beginning. The root cause is not due to flooding or fouled plugs is my point.

[F31B48]

Fair enough. Guess you better tow it to a shop then since nobody else has any suggestions.

[Traxk888]

I’ve had the same problem recently. Taking manifold off and disconnected dme while the battery was still fully connected. Put everything back together and tried to turn it on but long cranks, starts but shakes violently and throws every code for the car. 2011 bmw 335i N55 e90