[QRoll90]

So I've got a 2008 BMW 328i has 150k miles....we're trying to figure out if its worth keeping anymore. Have been making non stop repairs on it.

Recently we used the car, went to sleep and the next morning got in and when I started it up every light started flashing (headlights + tail lights included), wiper blades started going on their own and then it finally killed it self.

Replaced the battery, registered it and did a quick scan to find a bunch of codes that are attached in the photos. Car was able to drive but kept saying "Increased discharge", checked the battery and the new one was at 8%???

Wondering if this is going to be a few hundred dollar fix to get it to normal or is this going to cost a few thousand. I bought it for $3,000 as a beater and at this point have put in another $4,000-$5,000 in less than a year of ownership.

Keep in mind the car has had some severe water damage due to a tear in the sunroof seal. This has caused water to flood the interior after a drive in the rain. Did not find out about this until the weather started picking up a bit (bought it in the summer.)

Car also has the infamous lifter tick, transmission issues and a few suspension items that I know definitely need to be fixed.

I can do general maintenance items myself and am open to fixing it if possible. But if its not worth fixing at this point I'm ready to let it go.

[RayLivingston]

Sounds like my experience with a '07 335i. Got to the point where we could not trust it, and I spent waaaaaay too much time fixing it. Finally, last Oct, went to Carmax, traded it for a very low miles, perfect condition, 2019 Hyundai Ioniq Hybrid, which is an amazing car! We now get 55MPG, and I don't expect to have to do any actual repairs for many years. Not as much fun to drive, but dead reliable. The E90 was, by a MILE, the LEAST reliable car we've ever owned. Even my beloved '01 325i, which I owned since new, and had 245K miles on it, was FAR better built, and FAR more reliable. We will not be buying another BMW.

[drymite]

Get a scanner that lets you do a OEM enhanced scan which is a "dme" scan. Most of those codes will be gone after your battery or alternator is changed. You will get many codes with a low battery.. if your saying you put a new battery and registered it and its dying, i would check the alternator which is a couple hundred brand new and its a easy diy...
Idk how severe the water damage is but if jt was running properly in the summer.. its most likely your alternator not charging the battery triggering most of these codes.

The n52 is the most reliable bmw engine that i ever owned.. rarely gave me issues and will live forever with a bit of tlc. Only down side of 328i you have is the GM 6l45

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by RayLivingston

Sounds like my experience with a '07 335i. Got to the point where we could not trust it, and I spent waaaaaay too much time fixing it. Finally, last Oct, went to Carmax, traded it for a very low miles, perfect condition, 2019 Hyundai Ioniq Hybrid, which is an amazing car! We now get 55MPG, and I don't expect to have to do any actual repairs for many years. Not as much fun to drive, but dead reliable. The E90 was, by a MILE, the LEAST reliable car we've ever owned. Even my beloved '01 325i, which I owned since new, and had 245K miles on it, was FAR better built, and FAR more reliable. We will not be buying another BMW.

Yeah, sadly, you literally bought the most troublesome model that bmw has made in, oh, maybe ever? If you’d have gone 325/328 I think you’d have had a vastly different experience.

Also, great to hear about your ‘01 325i. I just purchased an ‘02 330i and love the car.

[ctuna]

Did you actually measure the battery voltage with a Voltmeter same
for Alternator voltage.
Do you know if those are stored codes? or error present codes.
Because your scanner could be reading error memory.

[mainbearing]

+1 on the alternator. If you have a new battery and still get the under voltage code that would be what to check first. With 150K miles and if you still have the original alternator, then the brush could have worn down to nothing.

Under voltage can cause all kinds of codes. I would solve the voltage issue than chase after those right now. The DIY below is for a Bosch alternator.

[mainbearing]

That GM 6L45 is a real shame no doubt!

The N52 leaks like a sieve otherwise I agree mechanically it is not too bad.

I think Audi makes better engines across the board than BMW. Audi/VW is just a bigger company with more engineering resources. Their 3.0T kicks BMW's ass all the way to B58, IMO.

Originally Posted by drymite

The n52 is the most reliable bmw engine that i ever owned.. rarely gave me issues and will live forever with a bit of tlc. Only down side of 328i you have is the GM 6l45

[hassmaschine]

sounds like a dead battery or bad alternator. not a huge deal. When the voltage drops below a certain value, you'll get all kinds of codes because the modules don't have enough power to run properly.

Man, I still don't know how some people spend so much on these cars, lol. I've had my E90 for 8 years now - I don't think I have spent significantly more than $100 a year, much less $100 a month. Mechanical hypochondriacs....

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

+1 on the alternator. If you have a new battery and still get the under voltage code that would be what to check first. With 150K miles and if you still have the original alternator, then the brush could have worn down to nothing.

Under voltage can cause all kinds of codes. I would solve the voltage issue than chase after those right now. The DIY below is for a Bosch alternator.

Just did this voltage regulator swap and it was less than $50.00 and I did the swap in about an hour and a half. No brainer.

[Fiasco]

What did you spend that 4,000 - 5,000 on? It's always tough to see the stories where people find out theres no such thing as a cheap BMW but they happen to the best of us and all we can do is learn from them.

If you like the car, I suggest selling it and then taking that money, adding some more to it and buying a cleaner newer example of one. Make sure to get a PPI done.

[Serf27]

The alternators cause a lot of electrical issues when they go bad.
I would start there.

The lifter tick could is something you just need to live with or try to quiet it down with oil flushes and oil treatments.

You could also service the trans fluid/filter, but if it’s going to take more than a fluid service, then probably draw the line there.

Suspension wouldn’t be the worst thing, if it’s only a few pieces.

[QRoll90]

Originally Posted by RayLivingston

Sounds like my experience with a '07 335i. Got to the point where we could not trust it, and I spent waaaaaay too much time fixing it. Finally, last Oct, went to Carmax, traded it for a very low miles, perfect condition, 2019 Hyundai Ioniq Hybrid, which is an amazing car! We now get 55MPG, and I don't expect to have to do any actual repairs for many years. Not as much fun to drive, but dead reliable. The E90 was, by a MILE, the LEAST reliable car we've ever owned. Even my beloved '01 325i, which I owned since new, and had 245K miles on it, was FAR better built, and FAR more reliable. We will not be buying another BMW.

Yikes...I've considered a 335i a few times but the reliability claims on them has been the only thing that's stopped me. Granite I had an F-Type previously which was okay on reliability but I've heard the 335i's are just hit or miss. Love to see them fully built. But I think ill love them from a distance lol....

[QRoll90]

Originally Posted by Fiasco

What did you spend that 4,000 - 5,000 on? It's always tough to see the stories where people find out theres no such thing as a cheap BMW but they happen to the best of us and all we can do is learn from them.

If you like the car, I suggest selling it and then taking that money, adding some more to it and buying a cleaner newer example of one. Make sure to get a PPI done.

It was a list of things... I took it to a Euroshop and firestone to fix so the price was definitely higher than the DIY option. I don't think BMW's are to expensive to fix and I don't have an issue getting repairs done but it's at the point where I'm doing something just about every month it feels like. I'll give the recommendations a shot and replace the alternator and volt regulator. Hopefully that will fix it.

[QRoll90]

Originally Posted by Serf27

The alternators cause a lot of electrical issues when they go bad.
I would start there.

The lifter tick could is something you just need to live with or try to quiet it down with oil flushes and oil treatments.

You could also service the trans fluid/filter, but if it’s going to take more than a fluid service, then probably draw the line there.

Suspension wouldn’t be the worst thing, if it’s only a few pieces.

I've given up on the lifter tick lol. It's going to take some voodoo magic at this point to fix that.

[RaZCaL]

I feel your pain. I have a 07 335xi with only 67,000 miles that is starting to have problems. Recently had a coolant leak and replaced a new battery. Now I have issues with transmission errors, not being able to shift gears that I am still trying to figure out. In the past, I’ve replaced the infamous Fuel pump issue, injectors, and gasket leak already.

Definitely selling my car after I fix this. Not worth the impending headache and money.