[GrumpyBimmerFan]

Gents,

Lots of knowledge here in the land of bimmerpost, and n54 is so well known, but i do have a few quick questions.

My brother-in-law just bought a 335, manual (the holly grail), no accidents, seems like a clean car, but it does have a few issues to sort.

The car has intakes and charge pipes, and used to have an MHD tune (stg1). The previous owner was having a lot of CEL's, so he decided to flash the car back to stock. The shop that did the work, told him it could be an issue with DME. When we bought it, and putted around town it threw a whole bunch of other check engine lights/missfires/stalling/turbos not working/etc. After gently driving home on the highway (cooling off the car), and resetting CEL, the car ran perfect. It very much seems like the HPFP is acting out (got too hot, misfires, sent ECU in limp mode/turbo's shut off), so we are replacing it today. I'm hoping that it just didn't get diagnosed right, so that's why it was throwing all those codes and that DME is fine, and tune should have been fine. I've asked MHD for the tune (via our VIN), but they pretty much told me to fuck off and buy a new tune. So now I'm thinking of COBB AP, just to put a fresh tune into it. Or should we do JB4? I've always had my cars tuned, so im a bit confused on JB4/bypass, and why is everyone going after it...

Also, the car has a blow-off valve. In my old days (with STI's), blow off valve was a no go, unless u specifically tuned for it. Currently, the car sits without a tune/stock tune, so should we consider putting stock bypass valve/upgraded valve(any recommendations) or is this blow off valve fine? It could be causing some of our CEL codes...maybe?

Another question is on ABS module. So the car is throwing a bunch of codes for that, and the previous owner said he had it diagnosed and was told the ABS module is caput. My understanding is that this is a fairly common failure (due to heat). New one is $3k, so we are looking on the auction site that sells used stuff (rhimes with we bay). On realoem it lists two part numbers for it 34502460423 and 34506777160, but it seems like the names for the parts are all over the place, and I've seen other part numbers for it. Are these interchangeable with other models? Would any of the 2 parts work? What are the common names for this module (DSC module/ABS module?) Any recommendations in this department?

We know this was a bit of a project, but we got a good price on it, and it seems like the bones of the car are very solid (once codes are cleared, engine runs/sounds very healthy), plus its a manual... and within 300 miles of Miami, this was the only manual e92 335 at any price point plus all hail n54. All the other n54's (auto's) we saw, were beaten to the pulp. This one just seems to need a few items and should be a very very solid car. Has a burnt orange interior too (or brownish)

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by GrumpyBimmerFan

Gents,

It very much seems like the HPFP is acting out (got too hot, misfires, sent ECU in limp mode/turbo's shut off), so we are replacing it today.

29f3 is FUEL LOW PRESSURE SENSOR. Conceivably, that alone could explain your issues.


So now I'm thinking of COBB AP, just to put a fresh tune into it. Or should we do JB4? I've always had my cars tuned, so im a bit confused on JB4/bypass, and why is everyone going after it...

COBB is ridiculously overpriced, especially since is it not in active development for the N54, and JB4 is only competitive as a tuning device if coupled with a flash for which you'll need MHD anyway. Stick with MHD. It's pretty short money for the industry standard - a very well designed package that is extremely well supported. Get the logging option as well - it is an essential diagnostic tool and I think you're going to need it.


Also, the car has a blow-off valve. In my old days (with STI's), blow off valve was a no go, unless u specifically tuned for it.

Don't worry about it. It would have no impact on tuning and frankly I don't believe it would be any different for an STI or any other turbocharged vehicle. I do find them annoying but I suppose if you like calling attention to yourself there are some merits. FWIW I've been running the stock plastic charge pipe with stock diverter valve at 20psi for the last 45K miles. No problems.

Another question is on ABS module. So the car is throwing a bunch of codes for that, and the previous owner said he had it diagnosed and was told the ABS module is caput.

None of the codes you list involve the ABS

Good looking car!

[GrumpyBimmerFan]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Good looking car!

thank you for a response. So just spoke to the shop, he says the car is running well now, and the only code they are getting is the 29f3. He also says that it could be causing all these issues (puts the HPFP into full on mode, which then can overheat and cause issues). hmm... this one is tricky. My understanding is that HPFP can be on/off, i.e. we have reset the car, now the pump is working, but it might not work tomorrow? Is it in the same general area to replace as the low fuel pressure sensor? I was quoted 3hours to replace the HPFP, and if the low fuel pressure sensor is in the vicinity, maybe should replace both? Just don't want to replace the low pressure fuel sensor, pay 3 hours of labor, and then 2 days later the HPFP throws a code, and we have to go back into it again. Whats ur recommendation? We already ordered the low pressure sensor.

My brother in-law is in the army, just finished BootCamp, and this is his first car, and he has to drive it from Miami to Kentucky. Id like to get it all squared away before he leaves.

The ABS module errors are coming up on the dashboard: traction control error/ABS error/Brake error, says drive carefully. Unable to reset. The previous owner says he got it diagnosed to be ABS module. Again, not certain on what part I need to get.

[ky0u]

Agreed with comment regarding tunes. Don't bother with Cobb.

JB4 is not garbage or anything, but as a standalone, it's a bit dated and takes a bit of work to get properly set up to go. That being said, it has some really nice safeties built in

MHD will likely be the best bang for your buck on this. Their licensing set up is a little bit DLC-ish. But they do offer a super license that enables pretty much full use of all their features + unlimited use for $250 (at least when i bought it, thats how much it was).
This includes flashing maps (this is a thing because you can get custom maps created from third parties and use the MHD app to flash them onto your computer), scanning/diagnostics (must have on this car), and a full range of OTS maps and accompanying features you can play around with.
Also, you can do a hybrid set up with MHD/JB4 to take advantage of the safeties of the latter

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by GrumpyBimmerFan

thank you for a response. So just spoke to the shop, he says the car is running well now, and the only code they are getting is the 29f3. He also says that it could be causing all these issues (puts the HPFP into full on mode, which then can overheat and cause issues). hmm... this one is tricky. My understanding is that HPFP can be on/off, i.e. we have reset the car, now the pump is working, but it might not work tomorrow? Is it in the same general area to replace as the low fuel pressure sensor? I was quoted 3hours to replace the HPFP, and if the low fuel pressure sensor is in the vicinity, maybe should replace both? Just don't want to replace the low pressure fuel sensor, pay 3 hours of labor, and then 2 days later the HPFP throws a code, and we have to go back into it again. Whats ur recommendation? We already ordered the low pressure sensor.

My brother in-law is in the army, just finished BootCamp, and this is his first car, and he has to drive it from Miami to Kentucky. Id like to get it all squared away before he leaves.

The ABS module errors are coming up on the dashboard: traction control error/ABS error/Brake error, says drive carefully. Unable to reset. The previous owner says he got it diagnosed to be ABS module. Again, not certain on what part I need to get.

Replacing the low pressure sensor is about as easy a job as you're ever gonna get. I recommend giving it a try yourself. If you have to take this vehicle to a shop everytime something like this happens you will not feel you've gotten a good deal on the car for long.

That said, yes, it's in the vicinity of the HPFP and whoever does the HPFP
should be able to change the sensor for very little extra cost. The real question is whether you needed an HPFP at all. Not a trivial expense - at least $500 for the part unless you go used (not recommended).

Finally, if there are no stored ABS codes, there is likely some other explanation for your dashboard warnings about errors. Could be speed sensor, could be a lot of things. You'll go broke fast throwing parts at this thing.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by ky0u

Agreed with comment regarding tunes. Don't bother with Cobb.

JB4 is not garbage or anything, but as a standalone, it's a bit dated and takes a bit of work to get properly set up to go. That being said, it has some really nice safeties built in

MHD will likely be the best bang for your buck on this. Their licensing set up is a little bit DLC-ish. But they do offer a super license that enables pretty much full use of all their features + unlimited use for $250 (at least when i bought it, thats how much it was).
This includes flashing maps (this is a thing because you can get custom maps created from third parties and use the MHD app to flash them onto your computer), scanning/diagnostics (must have on this car), and a full range of OTS maps and accompanying features you can play around with.
Also, you can do a hybrid set up with MHD/JB4 to take advantage of the safeties of the latter

Absolutely right. JB4 does offer some neat features and safeties. I used one when I was injecting methanol.

[GrumpyBimmerFan]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Replacing the low pressure sensor is about as easy a job as you're ever gonna get. I recommend giving it a try yourself. If you have to take this vehicle to a shop everytime something like this happens you will not feel you've gotten a good deal on the car for long.

That said, yes, it's in the vicinity of the HPFP and whoever does the HPFP
should be able to change the sensor for very little extra cost. The real question is whether you needed an HPFP at all. Not a trivial expense - at least $500 for the part unless you go used (not recommended).

Finally, if there are no stored ABS codes, there is likely some other explanation for your dashboard warnings about errors. Could be speed sensor, could be a lot of things. You'll go broke fast throwing parts at this thing.

100% agree, but we do have about $3k in the budget to make it run right before my brother in-law has to drive to Kentucky (from Miami). He just came out of boot camp and needed a car, and really wanted this. I don't have a garage to work in On base he will have a hobby shop where he can mess around with it, but for now we want to address the immediate needs. He will have to drive over 1k miles or so.
We keep getting codes 2aaf and 29f3 and 2a17, which according to TSB is low pressure sensor. We currently are not getting error codes for the HPFP, so maybe it was causing the other codes i was getting earlier on the high pressure system, or maybe the hpfp wasn't working, and now is, but won't work again tomorrow. Our plan now is, to replace the low-pressure sensor, which is right next to the HPFP, and do a visual inspection of the pump i.e. was it recently replaced/is it chinese). If any of those, then replace it as preventative maintenance, the shop owner told me he won't charge us extra to replace it (since he will be in there anyway), so its the fuel pump cost.

The ABS module codes are: 005E59, 005DF0, 005DF, 00D360, 00D35B

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by GrumpyBimmerFan

100% agree, but we do have about $3k in the budget to make it run right before my brother in-law has to drive to Kentucky (from Miami). He just came out of boot camp and needed a car, and really wanted this. I don't have a garage to work in On base he will have a hobby shop where he can mess around with it, but for now we want to address the immediate needs. He will have to drive over 1k miles or so.
We keep getting codes 2aaf and 29f3 and 2a17, which according to TSB is low pressure sensor. We currently are not getting error codes for the HPFP, so maybe it was causing the other codes i was getting earlier on the high pressure system, or maybe the hpfp wasn't working, and now is, but won't work again tomorrow. Our plan now is, to replace the low-pressure sensor, which is right next to the HPFP, and do a visual inspection of the pump i.e. was it recently replaced/is it chinese). If any of those, then replace it as preventative maintenance, the shop owner told me he won't charge us extra to replace it (since he will be in there anyway), so its the fuel pump cost.

The ABS module codes are: 005E59, 005DF0, 005DF, 00D360, 00D35B

Visual inspection of the HPFP will not give you anything. You cannot diagnose that way. The proper way to diagnose is 1) replace the low pressure sensor which has an obvious fault. Then you can use BMW standard tools (INPA) or the dealer level tools (ISTA-D) to read the fuel pressure low and fuel pressure high. That will tell you what needs to be replaced, if anything.

FWIW, 2AAF is a fuel pump code but according to BMW should be ignored in the absence of other fuel codes. Doesn't have a specific meaning in any case. You do have another fuel code, 29F3, which of course is the sensor. 2A17 is the DTML pump (evap - part of emission control), which I suppose is a sort of fuel code too but not of immediate concern until you need to pass inspection.

Here's a great place to look up codes - https://bmwfault.codes/

Assuming you have the dsc_87 variant installed (a reasonable guess) the ABS codes


05df - mistyped?
5e59 - control module recode
5Df0 - DSC hydraulic pump motor
D360 - CAN bus fault DSC/LDM
D35B - CAN bus fault DSC/KOMBI

These codes could reflect a bad module but they could just as easily reflect some corrosion on the connector contacts. I'd start by pulling the connectors and spraying a good quality contact cleaner - best I know of is called DeOx-it. Try that before throwing a part.

[E93Dude]

Originally Posted by GrumpyBimmerFan

Another question is on ABS module. So the car is throwing a bunch of codes for that, and the previous owner said he had it diagnosed and was told the ABS module is caput. My understanding is that this is a fairly common failure (due to heat). New one is $3k, so we are looking on the auction site that sells used stuff (rhimes with we bay). On realoem it lists two part numbers for it 34502460423 and 34506777160, but it seems like the names for the parts are all over the place, and I've seen other part numbers for it. Are these interchangeable with other models? Would any of the 2 parts work? What are the common names for this module (DSC module/ABS module?) Any recommendations in this department?

Before you blow $3000 or whatever on a new or reman ABS pump, call/look up Module Masters - they are in Idaho, and specialize in fixing a well known fault in BMW ABS pumps, whereby the brushes in the motor wear prematurely. ABS pumps have to basically be broken into to effect what is actually a relatively simple fix - its not something the home mechanic can realistically do. I had mine repaired 3-4 years ago for about $250 incl. shipping and 5 year warranty. They worked quick and it was barely a week turnaround time with FedEx. No problems since.

[GrumpyBimmerFan]

thanks guys for all the good advice.

On ABS pump, per previous owner, he had the dealership do diagnostics, which confirmed a bad pump. My shop confirmed the same. I have contacted a rebuilding company, they said it is is either the brush motors, or the electronics part. Would have to send in the part to get diagnosed, which is 2 week turnaround, and depending on what it is, could be 250-350 to repair. We got lucky and found a pump at the local junk yard (that specializes in E9x's, had like 6 of them there), they pulled one out of 60k mile car (looks new), and cost $250. Getting all that installed tomorrow.

On hpfp, the shop did the fuel flow measurement, and all was well, until car heated up, then the flow rate jumped up. Long story short, it matched the symptoms for the low pressure sensor. The shop said the HPFP is likely fine, but, if it looks old (like it hasn't been replaced, is what i meant by visual inspection), i think we will do it as preventive maintenance since labor to remove the sensor and the pump is the same. My understanding is that HPFP is a certain failure part, but maybe I'm wrong? is it exaggerated? When i had a C6Z06, there was the dreaded valve guide issue, which was overblown by the forum, only very few actually had the issue... On the other hand, S85's have the bearing issue, which seems to be a real issue.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by GrumpyBimmerFan

thanks guys for all the good advice.

On ABS pump, per previous owner, he had the dealership do diagnostics, which confirmed a bad pump. My shop confirmed the same. I have contacted a rebuilding company, they said it is is either the brush motors, or the electronics part. Would have to send in the part to get diagnosed, which is 2 week turnaround, and depending on what it is, could be 250-350 to repair. We got lucky and found a pump at the local junk yard (that specializes in E9x's, had like 6 of them there), they pulled one out of 60k mile car (looks new), and cost $250. Getting all that installed tomorrow.

On hpfp, the shop did the fuel flow measurement, and all was well, until car heated up, then the flow rate jumped up. Long story short, it matched the symptoms for the low pressure sensor. The shop said the HPFP is likely fine, but, if it looks old (like it hasn't been replaced, is what i meant by visual inspection), i think we will do it as preventive maintenance since labor to remove the sensor and the pump is the same. My understanding is that HPFP is a certain failure part, but maybe I'm wrong? is it exaggerated? When i had a C6Z06, there was the dreaded valve guide issue, which was overblown by the forum, only very few actually had the issue... On the other hand, S85's have the bearing issue, which seems to be a real issue.

The pump motor replacement sounds like a good strategy - plus no coding required.

Regarding preventative HPFP replacement, I have ~100K miles on the original HPFP (2009), most of that tuned, a good portion of that with E30-40 mix. So, while the HPFP has been troublesome for a number of owners, it is not a problem for everyone. It's all about your comfort zone. I personally do not replace $600 parts without a good reason but being able to sleep peacefully without worry - who can put a price on that?

I can also speak to the S65/S85 bearing issue - I'm an S65 owner and I did the replacement preventatively. It is pretty clear that only a small fraction of owners actually suffered from this design flaw. But the stakes are much higher for this than for an N54 HPFP - if you lose a rod bearing in an S65, you lose $20K+. If your HPFP dies, and there is generally plenty of warning about it, you don't lose your engine.

[GrumpyBimmerFan]

Originally Posted by dpaul

The pump motor replacement sounds like a good strategy - plus no coding required.

Regarding preventative HPFP replacement, I have ~100K miles on the original HPFP (2009), most of that tuned, a good portion of that with E30-40 mix. So, while the HPFP has been troublesome for a number of owners, it is not a problem for everyone. It's all about your comfort zone. I personally do not replace $600 parts without a good reason but being able to sleep peacefully without worry - who can put a price on that?

I can also speak to the S65/S85 bearing issue - I'm an S65 owner and I did the replacement preventatively. It is pretty clear that only a small fraction of owners actually suffered from this design flaw. But the stakes are much higher for this than for an N54 HPFP - if you lose a rod bearing in an S65, you lose $20K+. If your HPFP dies, and there is generally plenty of warning about it, you don't lose your engine.

for sure. It just that with this car we already had a bunch of codes, some were for the low pressure, some were for the high pressure. The shop got to the pump, it looks original/has some surface rust (106k miles). We are replacing it for a peace of mind

[TyroneShoelaces]

DSC pumps/modules are interchangable if you get one close to your year as long as it's a rwd and car is rwd, or awd and car is awd. It looks like your headlights are pre lci but maybe an LCI hood so hard to tell your year. There were some early changes on the cars from 06 through late 07, then LCI 09+ There are a bunch of part out places in Miami area, I'm sure one of them has a DSC pump. I also have one from my 07 rwd sedan I would sell that I don't need.

It might be worth if your bro is going to wrench himself to get acquainted with Inpa or ISTA. But if time is essential buy Bimmergeeks protools for $150. You can swap modules and do diagnosis with it. I use it ALL the time.

I thought all newly enlisted guys went straight out and bought chargers and Challenger scat packs, BMW 335 is an odd choice, for better or worse.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by TyroneShoelaces

.

I thought all newly enlisted guys went straight out and bought chargers and Challenger scat packs, BMW 335 is an odd choice, for better or worse.

lol!

[GrumpyBimmerFan]

Well, he got me, I've done quite a bit of time, so I made sure he was getting the right toy. Plus, he is 25 and has masters degree in engineering, but he just immigrated, so only the army would take him with his green card. He'll commission in the air force as soon as he can

The low pressure sensor is installed, the HPFP is installed (the old one looked original/old). Getting the ABS pump installed. We also picked up a set of downpipes at the junk yard, so we will instal those as well and will inspect the turbo's while they are off. Already purchased MHD super licence (per ya'lls advice), so hopefully tonight we'll be rolling

On MHD, he has intakes/charge pipes, and we are putting the downpipes on, but the OTS map for stage two only calls for DP's. I assume it should be fine with the intakes?

p.s. are there any heat shields for the intakes? They are currently def not CAI lol, they sit right there by the engine, so i think it needs some kind of partition.

[TyroneShoelaces]

Originally Posted by GrumpyBimmerFan

Well, he got me, I've done quite a bit of time, so I made sure he was getting the right toy. Plus, he is 25 and has masters degree in engineering, but he just immigrated, so only the army would take him with his green card. He'll commission in the air force as soon as he can


p.s. are there any heat shields for the intakes? They are currently def not CAI lol, they sit right there by the engine, so i think it needs some kind of partition.

Outstanding, hopefully his degree from wherever he's from will translate and he can be recognized for his achievements.

Not If the intakes mount in the traditional location, there isn't much for heat shields.

[GrumpyBimmerFan]

bad news guys the module is only partially ok... The ABS part is fine, but the DSC has an error for a longitudinal-acceleration sensor (005E34). The junk yard has another module, but it has 160k miles. We will see if they can separate just the DSC part and replace it. If not, we will send it out to be rebuilt ... and all was going so well...

update: now its a yellow brake light that is on, tc light is off. i guess maybe not the module, maybe something else. From what I've been reading, many people are getting this error, which may be due to a newer DSC not being compatible with older speed sensor. So we need newer speed sensors. or maybe yaw control unit?

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by GrumpyBimmerFan

bad news guys the module is only partially ok... The ABS part is fine, but the DSC has an error for a longitudinal-acceleration sensor (005E34). The junk yard has another module, but it has 160k miles. We will see if they can separate just the DSC part and replace it. If not, we will send it out to be rebuilt ... and all was going so well...

It's tricky to match the whole module - there are many variants.

It's not clear to me what you actually did. If you simply swapped out the whole ABS pump and module assembly, then you should try installing your old module (the black part with the connector) on the new ABS pump assembly (the part with the motor and the square aluminum block). That will probably work since your original fault was 5DF) - bad motor.

You could also try to update the program (WinKFP) and code (NCSExpert) the new module. I'd do that before I concluded there was a hardware fault.

What model and year is your car (preferably provide last 7 characters of the VIN and what model/year is the replacement from?

[GrumpyBimmerFan]

Originally Posted by dpaul

It's tricky to match the whole module - there are many variants.

It's not clear to me what you actually did. If you simply swapped out the whole ABS pump and module assembly, then you should try installing your old module (the black part with the connector) on the new ABS pump assembly (the part with the motor and the square aluminum block). That will probably work since your original fault was 5DF) - bad motor.

You could also try to update the program (WinKFP) and code (NCSExpert) the new module. I'd do that before I concluded there was a hardware fault.

What model and year is your car (preferably provide last 7 characters of the VIN and what model/year is the replacement from?

We had these codes:

5df
5e59 - control module recode
5Df0 - DSC hydraulic pump motor
D360 - CAN bus fault DSC/LDM
D35B - CAN bus fault DSC/KOMBI

The shop told me its the whole module, include the DSC piece. I've looked up this latest code, and found a whole bunch of threads with people having exactly the same issue (replacing the module and getting exactly the same errors). In some threads they say to replace the yaw sensor (under the seat), and another post they say that if the module is significantly newer, then the older wheel speed sensors may not work with the newer module and may give this error. They recommend getting the sensors from the newer car (with the wiring). Since the module is from 2008, i don't think its that much newer, so I'm leaning towards yaw sensor. Funny enough, when i scan with my tool (blue driver) it says 5E34 (wheel speed sensor rear left: air gap too large), and I don't have other codes for the DSC module.

In other bad news, we got CEL again and two other codes: P1449 (leakage tank), which is no big deal, and the code 30FF which is worrisome. The car gives an error "reduced engine power", and it feels like turbo's are not blowing. When you turn off the car, this message and CEL goes away, and car goes into boost/pulls like it should, until you get into high rpm in 1/2 gear (5k) or 4k rpm in 3/4 gear. If u keep it below those RPM's, it doesn't give the CEL and pulls properly. So I assume once you give the engine a certain load, it boost leaks and goes into limp mode. So boost lines, boost solenoid or wastegate? I feel like it should be simple, since prior to putting too high of a load, it feels proper, like everything is working as it should (engine sounds super healthy, no rattles or anything). boost lines should be easy to check, but what about solenoids?

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by GrumpyBimmerFan

We had these codes:

5df
5e59 - control module recode
5Df0 - DSC hydraulic pump motor
D360 - CAN bus fault DSC/LDM
D35B - CAN bus fault DSC/KOMBI

The shop told me its the whole module, include the DSC piece. I've looked up this latest code, and found a whole bunch of threads with people having exactly the same issue (replacing the module and getting exactly the same errors). In some threads they say to replace the yaw sensor (under the seat), and another post they say that if the module is significantly newer, then the older wheel speed sensors may not work with the newer module and may give this error. They recommend getting the sensors from the newer car (with the wiring). Since the module is from 2008, i don't think its that much newer, so I'm leaning towards yaw sensor. Funny enough, when i scan with my tool (blue driver) it says 5E34 (wheel speed sensor rear left: air gap too large), and I don't have other codes for the DSC module.

In other bad news, we got CEL again and two other codes: P1449 (leakage tank), which is no big deal, and the code 30FF which is worrisome. The car gives an error "reduced engine power", and it feels like turbo's are not blowing. When you turn off the car, this message and CEL goes away, and car goes into boost/pulls like it should, until you get into high rpm in 1/2 gear (5k) or 4k rpm in 3/4 gear. If u keep it below those RPM's, it doesn't give the CEL and pulls properly. So I assume once you give the engine a certain load, it boost leaks and goes into limp mode. So boost lines, boost solenoid or wastegate? I feel like it should be simple, since prior to putting too high of a load, it feels proper, like everything is working as it should (engine sounds super healthy, no rattles or anything). boost lines should be easy to check, but what about solenoids?

There's a lot to unpack here

1) 5df is not a code. You mistyped whatever it was and I copied that into the list with the question "mistyped?"

2) 5E34 is a wheel speed sensor code BUT FOR A DSC VARIANT THAT I DO NOT BELIEVE IS INSTALLED IN YOUR CAR. If you had INPA, you could easily find out what is installed but your scanner does not have that capability. For the variant (DSC_87) I think you have, 5e34 is DSC:LONGITUDINAL ACCELERATION SENSOR (LDM).

3) I believe at least part of your problem is module compatibility issues - as I said, it is tricky. That's why I suggested you put your OLD module on the NEW pump.

4) There isn't a "DSC" piece and an "ABS" piece; there's a mechanical piece and an electronic piece.

5) 30FF just means that the DME has turned off the boost because some data it is expecting to receive is out of bounds or missing. A dozen possible explanations but the fact that there are no other relevant codes is helpful. You most likely just have a leak somewhere between the turbo output and the throttle body and the DME turns off the system because it can tell you're not meeting load requests.

Sometimes you can find a leak just by listening for it. Otherwise, the classic diagnostic is a smoke test.

[dpaul]

There is one point that might not have been clarified: have you at any point cleared the codes? You might be looking at faults that were set at some time in the past but are not currently present. The freeze frame data tells you that although I don't know if your scanner is capable of that or capable of that for all modules.

If you don't know what freeze frame data is or how to get it, just clear all the codes. Not just DME codes but ALL the modules.

Clear all the codes, then run the car and see which ones come back - those are the ones to be concerned with.

[GrumpyBimmerFan]

Originally Posted by dpaul

There's a lot to unpack here

1) 5df is not a code. You mistyped whatever it was and I copied that into the list with the question "mistyped?"

2) 5E34 is a wheel speed sensor code BUT FOR A DSC VARIANT THAT I DO NOT BELIEVE IS INSTALLED IN YOUR CAR. If you had INPA, you could easily find out what is installed but your scanner does not have that capability. For the variant (DSC_87) I think you have, 5e34 is DSC:LONGITUDINAL ACCELERATION SENSOR (LDM).

3) I believe at least part of your problem is module compatibility issues - as I said, it is tricky. That's why I suggested you put your OLD module on the NEW pump.

4) There isn't a "DSC" piece and an "ABS" piece; there's a mechanical piece and an electronic piece.

5) 30FF just means that the DME has turned off the boost because some data it is expecting to receive is out of bounds or missing. A dozen possible explanations but the fact that there are no other relevant codes is helpful. You most likely just have a leak somewhere between the turbo output and the throttle body and the DME turns off the system because it can tell you're not meeting load requests.

Sometimes you can find a leak just by listening for it. Otherwise, the classic diagnostic is a smoke test.

Thank you for your response. Sorry, it was 5df1 for the other code.


So if replacing the elctronic part on the module doesnt work, i read somewhere that you either A. Replace the yaw sensor or B. Replace the wheel speed sensors to newer. We might be able to get both from the donor car.

Glad to hear that boost leak is likely not a big issues. We will have the dp’s off tomorrow and will try the smoke test.