[lemansblue90]

Alright fellas, got a bit of a weird issue here.

Just changed out the spark plugs on my girlfriend’a 2018 Honda Accord (1.5T Sport), and I started it twice, once to check that the car was fine and once more to move it under a car port, and then her dad removed the negative terminal to reset the misfiring cylinder code. No big deal right?

Well now is where the issues begin: the car will crank but will not start. Battery is fine, starter is fine, checked all fuses inside and out. Can’t find a single thing wrong with it. Any ideas on what it might be?

My two best guesses are either fuel isn’t reaching the combustion chamber or the starter relay or some related component has gone bad.

For the fuel issue, they’d definitely have to take it to a shop and I’m really trying to avoid that, but if it’s the issue it’s the issue. My second guess is either the starter relay or some other relay that turns the engine over. I checked all relays outside the car and they are all good, but haven’t checked the inside relays. Of which, there are three and only three, one of which is the starter relay and the other two I have no clue what their function is. They are all the same exact relay too.

If any of you mechanically inclined friends out there have any ideas about this your input would be greatly and utterly appreciated. Feel free to ask questions and I’ll answer to the best of my ability 👍

P.S. I know for a fact it wasn’t me changing the plugs because like I said, I started the car twice and it worked fine both times, but the second her dad reconnected the battery something went wrong (which makes me think it’s a relay of some kind).

[lowrydr310]

Hey! That's not an E90... but you're a legit bimmerpost contributor with a solid post history so it's all good.

Crank no start is common behavior for a Honda that has a physical key trying to start it but not recognizing the immobilizer chip in the key. When you're trying to start or you insert the key do you see a flashing key light on the dash? Have you tried starting with another key?

[Serf27]

It wouldn’t be the starter really since it’s turning over.
Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to acc mode?

[lemansblue90]

Originally Posted by lemansblue90

Alright fellas, got a bit of a weird issue here.

Just changed out the spark plugs on my girlfriend’a 2018 Honda Accord (1.5T Sport), and I started it twice, once to check that the car was fine and once more to move it under a car port, and then her dad removed the negative terminal to reset the misfiring cylinder code. No big deal right?

Well now is where the issues begin: the car will crank but will not start. Battery is fine, starter is fine, checked all fuses inside and out. Can’t find a single thing wrong with it. Any ideas on what it might be?

My two best guesses are either fuel isn’t reaching the combustion chamber or the starter relay or some related component has gone bad.

For the fuel issue, they’d definitely have to take it to a shop and I’m really trying to avoid that, but if it’s the issue it’s the issue. My second guess is either the starter relay or some other relay that turns the engine over. I checked all relays outside the car and they are all good, but haven’t checked the inside relays. Of which, there are three and only three, one of which is the starter relay and the other two I have no clue what their function is. They are all the same exact relay too.

If any of you mechanically inclined friends out there have any ideas about this your input would be greatly and utterly appreciated. Feel free to ask questions and I’ll answer to the best of my ability 👍

P.S. I know for a fact it wasn’t me changing the plugs because like I said, I started the car twice and it worked fine both times, but the second her dad reconnected the battery something [...]

Alright so update, turns out the ECM got blown somehow by disconnecting the battery so the local Honda dealership is taking care of that, thanks to both of you for your help (and I’ll try to keep to E90 related topics from this point forward &#128513

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by lemansblue90

Alright so update, turns out the ECM got blown somehow by disconnecting the battery so the local Honda dealership is taking care of that, thanks to both of you for your help (and I’ll try to keep to E90 related topics from this point forward ��)

What's that going to cost her, or is it under warranty?

[lemansblue90]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

What's that going to cost her, or is it under warranty?

They say it’ll be $500 to replace the part then reprogram keys, which is much better than the $1300 they estimated to replace the fuel injectors which they thought initially was the problem.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by lemansblue90

They say it’ll be $500 to replace the part then reprogram keys, which is much better than the $1300 they estimated to replace the fuel injectors which they thought initially was the problem.

Ha, yeah, a dealer is like Costco: any time you can get out of there without spending $1,000 you're ahead of things!

[krhodes1]

Originally Posted by lemansblue90

Alright so update, turns out the ECM got blown somehow by disconnecting the battery so the local Honda dealership is taking care of that, thanks to both of you for your help (and I’ll try to keep to E90 related topics from this point forward &#128513

Very odd, though kind of like how disconnecting and reconnecting the battery can blow FTMs in BMWs.

Does Honda have a procedure for battery disconnection? For my P2 Volvo V70, Volvo VERY strongly recommended having the headlights switched on to prevent serious issues. Whatever works...