BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      12-08-2007, 01:50 AM   #1
Zonian22
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Are the rear wheels "Deeper" than the Front wheels?

Or am I just seeing things? Can anyone who has actually seen the car in person confirm this?
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      12-08-2007, 02:02 AM   #2
Robert
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Deeper as in wider?
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      12-08-2007, 05:19 AM   #3
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I'm assuming you're talking about the 135i?

The 135i wheel/tire combo is:
Front - 18 x 7.5 with 215/40/18
Back - 18 x 8.5 with 245/35/18

I think what you mean is the actual "dish" of the spokes.
On the front the spokes are flush & straight, and the backs are set back a bit, with the spokes curving inward a little.

I have not seen them in person, but I've looked at a ton of pictures of the 135i wheels, and that's the way I see them .:smile:
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      12-08-2007, 05:43 AM   #4
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as seen in this pic... there is a very subtle diff of the rear wheels have a deeper lip...it may even be a shadow..but def. an aftermarket thou with the staggered fit it will look amazing

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      12-08-2007, 06:46 AM   #5
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gbent is correct. the rear wheels have more dish to them than the fronts, giving it a bit more of an aggressive look. They look pretty good in person. Here's a pic I took that shows the difference in dish. Both sets of spokes are concave, but the rears are moreso.
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      12-08-2007, 06:57 AM   #6
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Thanks!!!!! Just one more reason to get this car
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      12-08-2007, 07:58 AM   #7
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When i see that staggered setup, all i can think about is understeer. The car is not a dragger, after all.

Plus, if the tires are directional, you can't rotate them at all.
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      12-08-2007, 08:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R32 View Post
When i see that staggered setup, all i can think about is understeer. The car is not a dragger, after all.

Plus, if the tires are directional, you can't rotate them at all.
Think of those porsches that all have staggered setups, and no plowing. This think just needs a $300 set of swaybars, and your understeering issues are gone.

By the way, the Bridgestone RE-050A runflats on these cars are not directional, but do have an inside and outside. That means you can swap side to side, but not front to rear.
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      12-08-2007, 03:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
Think of those porsches that all have staggered setups, and no plowing. This think just needs a $300 set of swaybars, and your understeering issues are gone.
We'll see, but 911's have a rear-biased weight distribution that demands a stagger to keep the back from coming around. I anticipate rear sway plus a non-staggered setup to get neutral on the 1.
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      12-08-2007, 11:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R32 View Post
When i see that staggered setup, all i can think about is understeer. The car is not a dragger, after all.

Plus, if the tires are directional, you can't rotate them at all.
Not necessarily understeer. Almost all RWD cars will have a tendency to oversteer. The staggered set up is just a way to compensate for that natural tendency to oversteer, and bring the car as close as possible to neutral steering (neither oversteer or understeer).

Maybe, if you buy high grip tires for the 135i you can fit bigger tires up front. So instead of being 215/245 front to back, it could be 235/245, or even 245/245. The reason being that with more grip from the tires, it will be harder for the engine to break the rear loose. So you won't have much need for a staggered set up to compensate for oversteer, and you can increase you total traction by both improved compound and increased contact patch.

Also, I don't care about the fact that you can't rotate the tires at all. I am much more concerned about the performance of the car of the car than about the economy of it. If you're concerned about tire wear, fuel economy, and stuff like that buy the 128i.
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      12-09-2007, 08:29 AM   #11
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Pretty much every rwd car sold in America understeers significantly. This is because the auto makers see this as a safety feature. The 135i's out-of-the-box understeer has been discussed on this board a good bit already.

My concern about rotating tires is that you can get a lot more from track tires if you can swap them front to back, and some r-comps are bi-directional in dry conditions (toto ra-1, for example). The excellent falken rt615 is bidirectional too.

I just don't see that a staggered setup for a weight balanced car makes sense, except that it looks cool. Sure, there are ways to dial out the understeer without changing the wheels (more camber in front, mostly), but then you make even more of an issue of tire wear.
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      12-09-2007, 08:43 AM   #12
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Good point, R32. I was going to mention camber plates when I posted about the swaybars, but thought a lot of people wouldn't normally use them because of premature tire wear. Adjustable swaybars (like UUC) will likely easily dial out the understeer on the coupe, keeping the stock camber and tires, while not effecting wear.

You're also correct that this has been discussed quite a bit in other threads. That deep dish does look cool though, to get back on topic. :smile:
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      12-09-2007, 09:10 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zonian22 View Post
Thanks!!!!! Just one more reason to get this car
??? Most RWD cars do have wider rear wheels... you should have just assumed BMW would be no different ... especially with twin turbos
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      12-09-2007, 06:34 PM   #14
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You can really see the concave nature of the wheels in this picture:

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      12-09-2007, 06:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R32 View Post
When i see that staggered setup, all i can think about is understeer. The car is not a dragger, after all.

Plus, if the tires are directional, you can't rotate them at all.

It may not be like this .. I had 18x9s up front and 18x10s in the rear of my 04 cobra and I didn't really have any understeer with this setup .. actually it hooked really well in regards to being a dragger ..(if you mean straight line performance)..

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      12-10-2007, 09:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R32 View Post
When i see that staggered setup, all i can think about is understeer. The car is not a dragger, after all.

Plus, if the tires are directional, you can't rotate them at all.
My dealer tells me that BMW does not recommend tire rotation unless you do it every 3,000 miles or less because the tread sets. You screw up the set if you rotate say every oil change.
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      12-10-2007, 10:07 AM   #17
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I'd like to see if some of the euro guys that are taking delivery soon would test the 18x8.5 wheel/tire setup in the front and report back to the forum if it works without issues.
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      12-20-2007, 08:10 AM   #18
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I have
-Front 205 45 18 wheel 7,5 x 18
-Rear 225 40 18 wheel 8 x 18.

In future I'll buy in front 215 40 not Run on flat.

However I think that different tyre width between front and rear isn't a good setup.
I can subscrive this solution only in the 135i with 305 hp.
In other models this cause only under steering. In order to avoid it I adjusted the front camber to -2° 13'.
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      12-20-2007, 09:29 AM   #19
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Freno a mano, please tell us how you adjusted front camber? Did you install camber plates, or is there an easier and cheaper method?
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      12-20-2007, 09:47 AM   #20
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He explained it pretty well in this thread:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?p=45703

This is a technique that works for almost any car (at least any car that I have come across with this sort of front suspension). It should help address our theoretical understeer problems without resorting to the aftermarket.
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      12-20-2007, 10:04 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPower View Post
He explained it pretty well in this thread:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?p=45703

This is a technique that works for almost any car (at least any car that I have come across with this sort of front suspension). It should help address our theoretical understeer problems without resorting to the aftermarket.
it doesn't work in every car because some have bolt patterns that do not allow you to rotate them. I did it in my E46 M3 but the best way to do it in that car is swap left to right and rotate.
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      12-20-2007, 10:11 AM   #22
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In my previous car I had to rotate. In 1 series you have only to remove the centering pivot, lift the car, loosen up the dome nuts and adjust the camber as you want. It requires only 30 mins. After that you have to adjust also the toe.
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