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[MenTul]

Looking for a set of forged rims (19s) for my e90. Prefer fewer spokes for easier cleaning and better brake cooling.

HREs seem pretty expensive.
Would like SSRs but can't find ones that fit.

Cast alternatives are not acceptable. Forged is stronger and lighter.

[CaliE90]

wrong section

[MenTul]

Forging is a manufacturing process not a brand.

[TSM330i]

Originally Posted by MenTul

Looking for a set of forged rims (19s) for my e90. Prefer fewer spokes for easier cleaning and better brake cooling.

HREs seem pretty expensive.
Would like SSRs but can't find ones that fit.

Cast alternatives are not acceptable. Forged is stronger and lighter.

SSR does make rims that fit. They have the Type C RS in 18".
I'm not sure why cast aren't acceptable. Many racing series use cast wheels. The BTCC uses cast wheels (both BBS and Advan supply wheels for this series). Forged wheels aren't necessarily lighter either. My Advan RS's are lighter than many forged wheels.
If you really want a high quality forged rim, then go with Volk. Yes, they are expensive, but they are really good wheels.

[MenTul]

Originally Posted by AW325xi

SSR does make rims that fit. They have the Type C RS in 18".
I'm not sure why cast aren't acceptable. Many racing series use cast wheels. The BTCC uses cast wheels (both BBS and Advan supply wheels for this series). Forged wheels aren't necessarily lighter either. My Advan RS's are lighter than many forged wheels.
If you really want a high quality forged rim, then go with Volk. Yes, they are expensive, but they are really good wheels.

SSR US master distributor is TireRack. Wanted 19" GT-03s, but not carried.

I want 19" rims.
265/30R19 is very low profile tire.
Forged rim needed for durability over thousands of miles.
Typical weight of 19" rim is 25lbs+, want <22lbs and non rfts (saving about 5lbs/tire)
Each lb saved is about 4% reduction in angular inertia yielding corresponding acceleration benefits without engine mods.

Use in Racing is irrelevant to real world except for weight. Racing wheels only need to last at most the duration of a race on smooth paved track often with wheel changes (tire + rim) in between. Real world has potholes, speed bumps and your neighbor's cat.

Cast has lower inherent strength than forged by weight.

Read here for forged vs. cast debate:

http://www.hrewheels.com/hre_in_acti...forged-wheels/
http://www.motegiracing.com/techzone...ame=wheeltech5

[spacedogg]

Yeah we know what the advantages of forged wheels are. We aren't N00bs.

I would prefer to stay with mono-block forged wheels (rather than 2 or 3 piece forged wheels).

Your best bet in 19" sizing at a realistic pricing? MORR Alloys VS7 or MORR Alloys VS8. 19" sizing at sub 19 to 20 lbs weight which is amazing for the size. I own the VS7s. I'm very happy with them. Concavity is amazing. Good stuff.
8000 lb forging process. High quality aluminum alloy. Powdercoated finish. Made by vendor on E90post with custom offset designed to fit our cars.

Next up...maybe Volk or Rays. Expensive and a bit of a wait from Japan. BBS (LM or the more exclusive LM-R comes to mind). These are also made by BBS Japan...so unless you can find a vendor which has them in stock...you are looking at a bit of a wait. Oh I should add that the LM and LM-R are two piece forged tho.

Then you can consider NEEZ...but they are bit pricey and there are not very many vendors in the US who carry them. Also out of Japan.

I know HRE has a monoblock forged line. Might be worth checking out. Maybe look at some less popular brands like Forgeline, etc.

I would stay away from iForged.

In ordering any of these wheels...expect them to wait anywhere from 2 months and up.

If you really want something light...stick with 18" or even 17". That's my recommendation. A well made cast 18" wheel will be lighter than most 19" forged wheels. Something to chew on. And a forged 18" or 17" will be worlds lighter than any 19" wheel.

[Nic320si]

Originally Posted by MenTul

SSR US master distributor is TireRack. Wanted 19" GT-03s, but not carried.

I want 19" rims.
265/30R19 is very low profile tire.
Forged rim needed for durability over thousands of miles.
Typical weight of 19" rim is 25lbs+, want <22lbs and non rfts (saving about 5lbs/tire)
Each lb saved is about 4% reduction in angular inertia yielding corresponding acceleration benefits without engine mods.

Use in Racing is irrelevant to real world except for weight. Racing wheels only need to last at most the duration of a race on smooth paved track often with wheel changes (tire + rim) in between. Real world has potholes, speed bumps and your neighbor's cat.

Cast has lower inherent strength than forged by weight.

Read here for forged vs. cast debate:

http://www.hrewheels.com/hre_in_acti...forged-wheels/
http://www.motegiracing.com/techzone...ame=wheeltech5

Well what you say about racing isnt really true. dont you have touringcar races and GT-racing in the States? Wheels in Danish Touring Championship and World Touring Car Championship get used over and over again. Refitted with tires for the next race and send back out in action...

And The Nürburgring is anything but smooth... Even on regular tracks the wheels takes a beating just coming off the curbes!

This one has seen plenty of action and is ready for the next race as soon as a new tire is fitted:

[MenTul]

Originally Posted by spacedogg

Yeah we know what the advantages of forged wheels are. We aren't N00bs.

Read response from AW325xi above. Perhaps you mean, all of us aren't N00bs.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check out the MORRs. I agree with you about the smaller rims = lighter weight. I just want the big rim look w/o the big rim performance hit.

Originally Posted by Nic320si

Well what you say about racing isnt really true.

At the end of a race, wheels are inspected and ones without damage are remounted and reused. Some can be reused, some get discarded. Race wheels only need to last the race at most, not a whole season. Yep, its really true.

In the real world, no one inspects their rims every 500 miles.

[spacedogg]

Originally Posted by MenTul

Read response from AW325xi above. Perhaps you mean, all of us aren't N00bs.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check out the MORRs. I agree with you about the smaller rims = lighter weight. I just want the big rim look w/o the big rim performance hit.

Keep in mind MORR Alloys are multi-spoked. I personally think 5 spoke or less wheels (while easier to clean) look horrible.

Owning forged wheels myself...the reduction of unsprung weight and the corresponding increase in performance (while noticeable on the butt dyno) is not dramatic.

If you have owned forged wheels before, you'll know what I'm talking about. If this will be your first time purchasing forged wheels, I'm just saying this so you don't have unreasonable expectations of forged wheels.

Forged wheels are good...but for most people...well made cast wheels are a good alternative as long as they designed and constructed well. The Aluflegen 19" 162 replicas and CSL replicas come to mind. As do the classic BBS CH. You likely won't have problems with cracks or bent rims if they are used within reason.

[Nic320si]

Well , I think that youre wrong but apparently wont listen so sorry I posted...

[aut0sh0cker]

If you really want a light/strong wheel, get a set of Dymags (forged/carbon construction) but be ready to spend $10k

[MenTul]

Originally Posted by spacedogg

If you have owned forged wheels before, you'll know what I'm talking about. If this will be your first time purchasing forged wheels, I'm just saying this so you don't have unreasonable expectations of forged wheels.

Good info. The goal is to improve the looks of the car - to my questionable standards - and get away from RFTs, while not hurting performance. The idea of spending a couple or more thousand on new wheels to end up with a slower car pains me, even if its only a few ticks on the butt dyno. And, saving a few bucks is always good.

20 years ago I got my first bent rim over a missing manhole cover! In the rain. Stuck to forged as my aftermarket choice ever since. Bit once, twice shy.

I plan on wrapping them in BFG KDW2s.

[TSM330i]

Originally Posted by MenTul

Read response from AW325xi above. Perhaps you mean, all of us aren't N00bs.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check out the MORRs. I agree with you about the smaller rims = lighter weight. I just want the big rim look w/o the big rim performance hit.



At the end of a race, wheels are inspected and ones without damage are remounted and reused. Some can be reused, some get discarded. Race wheels only need to last the race at most, not a whole season. Yep, its really true.

In the real world, no one inspects their rims every 500 miles.

Yes, I know the advantages of forged wheels. I was mearly trying to give you an alternative that you may not have thought of. If you're serious about getting 19" forged wheels then go with Volk. For the money (not as much as HRE), they are a fantastic light weight forged rim.
Also, racing puts more stress on rims than you'll ever see on the street. Higher horsepower, specially tuned suspensions and slick tires will put way more load on the rim than any street car will (well over 1g load in turns). As for being smooth - have you ever watched Sebring? When the Corvette team first went racing in the GT2 (now GT1 category) the BBS wheels they used originally had deflected under load. They switched to OZ and found the chassis was easier to set up due to less deflection. The rims are also reused over and over again. The vast majority of race teams can't afford to purchase new rims after every race. I work on a race team that uses the stock rims (a 335) and they can't afford to purchase new rims over and over again during the season. They've been lucky to not get into trouble and have issues with the rims. So, their cast rims are working fine.
Chances are, if you had a forged rim and hit a missing manhole cover - you would have bent it too. They're very strong, but not indestructible (as you pointed out in your post racing inspection above).

[MenTul]

Originally Posted by AW325xi

Yes, I know the advantages of forged wheels. I was mearly trying to give you an alternative that you may not have thought of. If you're serious about getting 19" forged wheels then go with Volk. For the money (not as much as HRE), they are a fantastic light weight forged rim.
Also, racing puts more stress on rims than you'll ever see on the street. Higher horsepower, specially tuned suspensions and slick tires will put way more load on the rim than any street car will (well over 1g load in turns). As for being smooth - have you ever watched Sebring? When the Corvette team first went racing in the GT2 (now GT1 category) the BBS wheels they used originally had deflected under load. They switched to OZ and found the chassis was easier to set up due to less deflection. The rims are also reused over and over again. The vast majority of race teams can't afford to purchase new rims after every race. I work on a race team that uses the stock rims (a 335) and they can't afford to purchase new rims over and over again during the season. They've been lucky to not get into trouble and have issues with the rims. So, their cast rims are working fine.
Chances are, if you had a forged rim and hit a missing manhole cover - you would have bent it too. They're very strong, but not indestructible (as you pointed out in your post racing inspection above).

Well thanks for the suggestion of alternatives. I'll stick to forged and check out the Volks.

Yes, I agree that a missing manhole cover would probably ruin a forged wheel, but the lesson I learned is to consider the strength of the wheel when upgrading rather than just going by looks. Remember, the OP was looking for strong, light and easy to clean 19". So far, all the praise for cast has been that cast should be good enough for street, not that its better. Given a choice where price premium of forged is light, I'll pick forged every time.

Again, I'll also stick to my guns that criteria for racing wheels are not universally applicable on the street. As a GT1 expert you will know that 2009 SCCA rules specify the maximum diameter for GT1 racing is 16". And in GT2, you want to run 15x7 to take advantage of th 50lb weight reduction allowance. The OP specified 19" rims. Sidewall profiles in racing are greater than those specified for 19" wheels on an e90.

Tires protect rims from road damage. Shorter sidewalls (low profiles) protect rims less than larger sidewalls. Consequently, I'll maintain that a 19" rim used on the street with 30 profile non-RFT tires will be subject to greater impact stress over the life of the wheel than an 16" wheel running higher profile racing tires.

And to your racing experience, which is more important , that the wheel not fail during the race, or that you are able to get a season out of the wheel?

I will agree with you that racing wheels are subject to greater thermal stresses. But this not a consideration on a street vehicle.

PS. Some of us have racing experience too.