[acuratech]

so i was driving my car like a normal person honestly and when i went to pass someone on the highway i noticed my car is suddenly alot slower then (jb2 and intake) when i got off the highway i had the half check engine light thing.
theres no codes but my car feels like i am driving a TSXn 4 cly this thing is slow without boost, i took the jb2 and intake off and cleared the ecu and disconnected the battery, didnt change a thing i guess im taking it to the dealer but wanted to know if anyone had this problem before

[rollyn2night]

Yeah, I think what you are referring to is called a limp mode. It happens sometimes when you have a tune installed. However when you took off the jb2, and restarted the car, it should have gone and started normal. I know some of the newer tunes(jb3 1.3) are less prone to having a limp mode.

[GR8DEL]

As stated, you got a 'limp mode' Basically your car experienced some situation which caused the car to go into 'self preservation mode' and run at like 100 hp so as to not damage the engine. If you shut off the car and restart it the limp mode should go away so long as the fault is no longer present. If you get a limp mode and are running a tune, I would HIGHLY recommend BT scanning your car before taking it in for service to ensure the fault you threw wasn't related to the tune. Then take it to the dealer and have them fix whatever went wrong. Could be anything from HPFP to cam shaft carrier damage resulting in oil pressure loss....


Oh and I would also suggest doing some homework on your damn car before modifying it.... having baseline knowledge about your vehicle will save you and everyone else a little time and headache.

[acuratech]

jb2 was installed for 7k miles no problems yesterday runs like poo and even with it removed runs like poo definatly not jb2 related

[335i4u2nv]

funny thing i have the same problem. i had jb2hhr, took it all out and took my car into service. Got HPFP and i guess the update. Reinstalled intake and jb2hhr. Got half engine and proceeded to remove the R and then a H and an H and finally jb2 and still got half engine whenever i got to 4-5k rpm and under boost. So now all i have is the intake and today the same thing happened. What i did notice is my diverter valve is much louder then ever before. idk what the problem is but i order BTool and JB3.

[Terrance28]

Originally Posted by rollyn2night

Yeah, I think what you are referring to is called a limp mode. It happens sometimes when you have a tune installed. However when you took off the jb2, and restarted the car, it should have gone and started normal. I know some of the newer tunes(jb3 1.3) are less prone to having a limp mode.

Please stop giving out bad information. You can get a limp mode while you are stock as well, you don't have to have a tune and it won't necessarily go away because you take the tune off. Sometimes you can stop the car and restart it and the limp mode goes away. OP what code did you find when you scanned the car?

[lauer87]

Sounds like a fuel pump to me

[Dubbedoutbimmer]

Originally Posted by acuratech

jb2 was installed for 7k miles no problems yesterday runs like poo and even with it removed runs like poo definatly not jb2 related

I have a direct answer and easy fix but then I read your username..........that is like against some law isnt lol maybe the JB2 just isnt meant for the Acura LMFAO

[acuratech]

Originally Posted by Dubbedoutbimmer

I have a direct answer and easy fix but then I read your username..........that is like against some law isnt lol maybe the JB2 just isnt meant for the Acura LMFAO

hehehe i drive a bmw 335 but i work at acura there easy to fix

[acuratech]

Originally Posted by Terrance28

Please stop giving out bad information. You can get a limp mode while you are stock as well, you don't have to have a tune and it won't necessarily go away because you take the tune off. Sometimes you can stop the car and restart it and the limp mode goes away. OP what code did you find when you scanned the car?

i got no codes when scanned stock now and when i still get on it limp mode comes on and to feels slow and sluggish and feels like no boost i ordered the bt scanner looks like im clearing codes and sending it in ill drive my honda in the mean time its faster and less agravating

[335e92tx]

Check the vacuum lines to the wg solenoids

[GR8DEL]

To my knowledge it is impossible to have a limp mode and have no codes thrown. What scanner you using? I'd suggest the BT tool

[acuratech]

Originally Posted by GR8DEL

To my knowledge it is impossible to have a limp mode and have no codes thrown. What scanner you using? I'd suggest the BT tool

as of right now its a generic snap on scanner i ordered the bt scanner to clear the tuner codes anyway maybe my snap on scanner is not good enough for my bmw

[iheartsole]

does the procede have limp mode problems when installed?

[acuratech]

ok got my bt scanner yesterday and this tool is awesome i had codes 2A17,
2F80, and 30FF now where are those hidden tuner codes the shadow codes look like a pending code they use for all other manufactures

[acuratech]

car went in on tuesday morning they called me today and told me i have 2 blown turbos and there replacing my hpfp for my long cranks i been getting, thats my 2nd pump in 9 months and turbos blown at 7100 miles, something sound strange with my car or is that one of the perks of driving a 50k car

[Psyrick]

Originally Posted by 335i4u2nv

What i did notice is my diverter valve is much louder then ever before. idk what the problem is but i order BTool and JB3.

Sounds to me like waste actuators came out of adjustment. Look up "N54 wastegate rattle" and you'll find it's a pretty common problem and comes from mechanical wear on the actuator linkage. The diverter valve in the N54 is actually so quiet you'll likely never hear it, but the wastegate's actuators can become loose and sloppy. In which case the gate flap can be heard clapping about the opening as you come off the gas. This means that the gate is not closing all the way, thus robbing your turbo of potential boost.

Another possibility is that the vacuum line that operates the wastegate actuators has ruptured leaving the gate locked in the open position. For me, this is not the problem as I checked my vacuum lines and found them still holding vacuum half an hour after the car has been shut-down.

I never tuned mine, but the previous owner recommended I get a JB4 while pitching the sale to me, so I think he had one in there. The car has had the rattles since I got it and just recently have I been measuring boost and find it just barely pops over the zero line during accelerations below 3500RPM and only momentarily spikes over 5psi during acceleration over 4000RPM.

The rear turbo's actuator rod can be adjusted from under the hood and all that is needed is 2 small open-end wrenches: a 10mm and a 4mm. On the other hand, the front turbo's actuator rod is hidden snugly between the engine block and turbo charger. Reaching in, I couldn't even touch it to feel for looseness, so you'll have to go so far as to pull the front turbo right off the engine to make a the adjustment. In a few weeks I'll be doing this job to mine and I'll post results.

[CoralRed335XI]

Originally Posted by Psyrick

Sounds to me like waste actuators came out of adjustment. Look up "N54 wastegate rattle" and you'll find it's a pretty common problem and comes from mechanical wear on the actuator linkage. The diverter valve in the N54 is actually so quiet you'll likely never hear it, but the wastegate's actuators can become loose and sloppy. In which case the gate flap can be heard clapping about the opening as you come off the gas. This means that the gate is not closing all the way, thus robbing your turbo of potential boost.

Another possibility is that the vacuum line that operates the wastegate actuators has ruptured leaving the gate locked in the open position. For me, this is not the problem as I checked my vacuum lines and found them still holding vacuum half an hour after the car has been shut-down.

I never tuned mine, but the previous owner recommended I get a JB4 while pitching the sale to me, so I think he had one in there. The car has had the rattles since I got it and just recently have I been measuring boost and find it just barely pops over the zero line during accelerations below 3500RPM and only momentarily spikes over 5psi during acceleration over 4000RPM.

The rear turbo's actuator rod can be adjusted from under the hood and all that is needed is 2 small open-end wrenches: a 10mm and a 4mm. On the other hand, the front turbo's actuator rod is hidden snugly between the engine block and turbo charger. Reaching in, I couldn't even touch it to feel for looseness, so you'll have to go so far as to pull the front turbo right off the engine to make a the adjustment. In a few weeks I'll be doing this job to mine and I'll post results.

I hope he fixed this problem 6 years ago.

[msjt]

Originally Posted by CoralRed335XI

I hope he fixed this problem 6 years ago.

Obviously OP has been waiting on his post lol His car has been sitting ever since.

[acuratech]

Lol yeah dealer fixed it I went through 2 sets of turbos and 5 fuel pumps I think in. 3 years I traded that mess in about 5 years ago

[Crimson335iVert]

Originally Posted by acuratech

ok got my bt scanner yesterday and this tool is awesome i had codes 2A17,
2F80, and 30FF now where are those hidden tuner codes the shadow codes look like a pending code they use for all other manufactures

So, what was the 2A17 fault??