Replacing the Battery on a E90

Guam128i · 04-27-2010, 11:31 PM

I have had my 06 325i since new. It only has 18K miles. The warranty is over. The car gets parked for weeks with no starting issues. About 2 days ago I tried to start the car and it could barely crank but still got it started. After this noticng that the battery was weak I hooked up a 2A battery tender. After 3 days the car will not start. hooked it up to a 25A battery charger (while still in the car and connected) for about 8 hours and still would not start. Jump started the car and then drove it for about 20 miles keeping the revs up, while driving the radio would not have any volume to it and the brake light and ABS warning lights keep going on. When I got home I chyeck the brake fluid and the level is okay. Tried to start the car again and it is completely drained.

Called the BMW dealer on Guam and asked about this and they said the battery is dead. if i replaced the battery it would have to be the original one ($367) because the computer needs to know what battery it is and they also need to program the computer as to the charging rate it needs to be at. I can buy an replacement battery (Interstate) for $135.

I have an 04 Subaru STI with 16K miles on original battery a Mitsubishi Evolution with 46K miles just replaced the battery last year and never had this problems or things that needed to be done just to replace the battery.

I was also told that I should not disconnect the battery from the car or else I will need to take it to the dealer to reprogram, too late I already took it out to try and re-charge the battery.

I can see it coming I cannot compare a BMW to a Japanese car but why make this a complicated thing?

Any comments or suggestions? I think getting a $367 battery plus reprogramminng is crazy.

ENINTY · 04-28-2010, 07:48 AM

So you need a new battery plain and simple. The dealer is correct, the car needs to be reprogrammed. When you get the next one get a Battery Tender and keep the battery on storage charge when the car is not being driven. Or drive it more than 4K miles a year.

mike3000fl · 04-28-2010, 08:31 AM

myself and several others have just bought an old school wally world battery and threw it in without the recode registration, no issues.

$70 and a 3 year warranty even if it does fail. hard to beat that.

Chriztofor · 04-28-2010, 09:47 PM

^ +1 I plan on changing my battery with a Walmart battery too.

csupernova · 04-29-2010, 10:33 AM

I changed mine with autozone battery. Screw the dealership !!!!

matrix76 · 05-04-2010, 10:47 AM

Hi guys, newbie but an oldie. I could not resist responding to this thread as I am currently going through the same problem with my 09 323i.

I bought the car new last fall and seem to have had issues right away. The fuel injection system turns out needed and firmware and software update which fixed that problem.

Now I am experiencing a battery issue. I first notice that my personal setting were restoring themselves back to factory settings when I started the car. This happened frequently and I sent it in to get checked out. The car came back days later with a report of "no problem found". A week later the same thing happen. The only common denominator in all this that I could determine was the battery. I took out my multi-meter and tested the battery after the car had been running for an hour or so. To my surprise it was reading 11.92V. Well after few test starts I measured the voltage dropping to 11.81V which I know is too low. Also when it was running the voltage went over 15V and stayed there.

I video taped this process and put it up on You Tube and sent the link off to the service department. After explaining it to them they took my car back and were able to recreate the low voltage situation I described . They informed me that my battery was functioning at 70%. I explained to them that this battery issue is causing my personal setting to continue to go back to factory default settings, and they agreed.

The problem now is that BMW will only replace the battery, under warranty, when it goes below 50%. Wow, I am having functionality problems now at 70%, as the battery deteriorates to 50% I will be stranded numerous times. I am sure when it gets to 60% I will be having major problems.

Their recommendation to correct this problem is to install a new BMW battery in my car and bill me for it. Come on, "BMW", at 50% the car is dead by then.

This is an ongoing issue and my car is still there. They will be calling me after their managers meeting to let me know what they have decided to do.

You Tube video link is:

Chriztofor · 05-04-2010, 10:59 AM

^ Go to a different dealer! If not, take all their names and write a letter to BMW NA. Is there a lemon law in Canada? If so, tell your current BMW manager that you will start the process. This is unacceptable for a 2009 BMW.

m_thompson · 05-04-2010, 11:39 AM

The battery in our '08 328xi was replaced under warranty for the same symptoms.

AlanAZ · 05-04-2010, 10:37 PM

It was an E46, but I had a battery replaced when it was less than a year old under warranty. They did have to keep the car overnight, charging it, and since it wouldn't hold (the car wouldn't start), replaced it.

matrix76 · 05-07-2010, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matrix76

Hi guys, newbie but an oldie. I could not resist responding to this thread as I am currently going through the same problem with my 09 323i.

I bought the car new last fall and seem to have had issues right away. The fuel injection system turns out needed and firmware and software update which fixed that problem.

Now I am experiencing a battery issue. I first notice that my personal setting were restoring themselves back to factory settings when I started the car. This happened frequently and I sent it in to get checked out. The car came back days later with a report of "no problem found". A week later the same thing happen. The only common denominator in all this that I could determine was the battery. I took out my multi-meter and tested the battery after the car had been running for an hour or so. To my surprise it was reading 11.92V. Well after few test starts I measured the voltage dropping to 11.81V which I know is too low. Also when it was running the voltage went over 15V and stayed there.

I video taped this process and put it up on You Tube and sent the link off to the service department. After explaining it to them they took my car back and were able to recreate the low voltage situation I described . They informed me that my battery was functioning at 70%. I explained to them that this battery issue is causing my personal setting to continue to go back to factory default settings, and they agreed.

The problem now is that BMW will only replace the battery, under warranty, when it goes below 50%. Wow, I am having functionality problems now at 70%, as the battery deteriorates to 50% I will be stranded numerous times. I am sure when it gets to 60% I will be having major problems.

Their recommendation to correct this problem is to install a new BMW battery in my car and bill me for it. Come on, "BMW", at 50% the car is dead by then.

This is an ongoing issue and my car is still there. They will be calling me after their managers meeting to let me know what they have decided to do.

You Tube video link is:

UPDATE , , , After a week and a half of extensive testing, on their part, they finally were able to get the battery to fail to a point where they were now able to replace the battery under warranty. I received the car back yesterday and it now functions perfectly. I did a quick test and the voltage is normal at 12.68V. They did say that the video did clearly indicate the problem existed and I think it was because of that they kept persisting and final came to the obvious result. I can only imagine how this would have been handled, on their part, if I had not sent them the link. Would they every have agreed to the replacement. I can only wonder what some people have gone through with the same issue and were not able to get the same results.

, , , This is not the end of this unfortunately, yesterday morning coming into work a stone hit the windshield of the NEW 2010 328 loaner and cracked it. I will now have to deal with this today , , ,

koreez88 · 05-07-2010, 01:55 PM

I threw in a battery from Pep Boys, $90, no reprogramming whatsoever, works like a charm. For almost 6 months now.

rambalu80 · 05-07-2010, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matrix76

UPDATE , , , After a week and a half of extensive testing, on their part, they finally were able to get the battery to fail to a point where they were now able to replace the battery under warranty. I received the car back yesterday and it now functions perfectly. I did a quick test and the voltage is normal at 12.68V. They did say that the video did clearly indicate the problem existed and I think it was because of that they kept persisting and final came to the obvious result. I can only imagine how this would have been handled, on their part, if I had not sent them the link. Would they every have agreed to the replacement. I can only wonder what some people have gone through with the same issue and were not able to get the same results.

, , , This is not the end of this unfortunately, yesterday morning coming into work a stone hit the windshield of the NEW 2010 328 loaner and cracked it. I will now have to deal with this today , , ,

If it is a chip, see if you can get it fixed. If they tell you that you will need to replace the windshield, FWIW, my dealership replaced my windshield for $395.00. The new windshield is an OEM Pilkington and the all sensors work just as good as they should. I should mention that I can confirm it is OEM b/c less than 2 weeks later, I had a rock chip on the new one!

matrix76 · 05-07-2010, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rambalu80

If it is a chip, see if you can get it fixed.

No, actually it hit right by the edge of the glass and crack almost immediately. Just my luck , , ,

NaTuReB0Y · 05-12-2010, 10:27 PM

i think my battery is going bad too..........

the battery light came on.....and then my car started choking......

having driving the car in a week.....maybe i'll pick up an Autozone battery this weekend.....

what do i disconnect first? black or red?

matrix76 · 05-13-2010, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NaTuReB0Y

What do i disconnect first? black or red?

The BLACK is recommended but more importantly you have keep your car running during the switch as you may loose important factory settings otherwise. You'll will have to get someone to hold the cable clear from touching anything or protect the RED, positive, once disconnected from coming in contact with the ground of the vehicle. Fairly straight forward operation.

Chriztofor · 05-13-2010, 10:38 AM

Keep the car running during the switch? That doesn't sound right, you may risk blowing something. Never heard that done before. I personally wouldn't do that.

Me_Hi · 05-13-2010, 11:18 AM

+1.... the car running just on the alternator will damage it+ plus the danger of shorting something.... rather start from scratch with the car's settings than replace alternator.

ENINTY · 05-13-2010, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matrix76

The BLACK is recommended but more importantly you have keep your car running during the switch as you may loose important factory settings otherwise. You'll will have to get someone to hold the cable clear from touching anything or protect the RED, positive, once disconnected from coming in contact with the ground of the vehicle. Fairly straight forward operation.

The first warning message in the TIS battery replacement procedure says "DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING."

Disconnect the negative terminal first.

matrix76 · 05-13-2010, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ENINTY

The first warning message in the TIS battery replacement procedure says "DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING."

Disconnect the negative terminal first.

I do not have a TIS so I am not aware of that. I would like to know what the actual issue is as to why it can not be done. Most new vehicle have to be reprogrammed if power is lost to the main PU. Your idle voltage is no more than the actual voltage of the battery. And the risk of shorting something out is really not there if done properly, I have done several without incident over the years. Please enlighten me regarding the TIS specific issue, again, I would like to know.

NaTuReB0Y · 05-13-2010, 11:05 PM

OKAY.....Too many advices....I'll wait til' the weekend to switch out my battery.

Thanks...by the way.

ENINTY · 05-14-2010, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matrix76

I do not have a TIS so I am not aware of that. I would like to know what the actual issue is as to why it can not be done. Most new vehicle have to be reprogrammed if power is lost to the main PU. Your idle voltage is no more than the actual voltage of the battery. And the risk of shorting something out is really not there if done properly, I have done several without incident over the years. Please enlighten me regarding the TIS specific issue, again, I would like to know.

Not sure if you know what the TIS actually is. The TIS is BMW's technical information system that is used by BMW Techs and independent mechanics to repair BMWs. If the manuafacturer of the car tells you not to disconnect the battery while the engine is running, why would you think you know better than the engineers who design and build the car that it is safe to do otherwise. The battery is a load on the charging system. Taking the load off the charging system instantly changes the circuit and will cause a voltage spike in the system, thus damaging voltage sensitive components such as computers and control modules.

But it's your car, so do with it what you want.

Brad from the OC · 05-24-2010, 10:15 PM

I have a 2006 e90 purchased in Sept. 05. I just had a yellow battery symbol appear on my dash and checked my manual. It said the battery was bad, so I went to Autozone and purchased a Duralast 49DL for around $90. Prior to the purchase Autozone load tested my OEM battery and it said it was bad with 56% charge. The OEM battery was manufactured in June 2005 and lasted until late May 2010. I took the new battery home and installed it and the car wouldn't start. I took the battery out and returned it back to Autozone and they load tested the battery and they said it was bad with 34% charge. They looked at the date on the side of the battery and it said 8/08. It was almost 2 years old!

They got me a new battery and charged it up. While I was waiting, I removed my OEM battery and compared it to a Duralast 94R DLG. It cost about $50 more, but was an exact fit. The 49DL is about 1 1/2 in. longer and about 1/2 in. less in height, but still fits in the battery compartment without modification. So I just got the 94 R DLG and it worked fine and everthing fits perfectly including the vent hose and the hold down clamp.

I called the stealership today to get a price estimate on getting the new battery registered. They said $211. I said that I just wanted to get the computer reset and register the new battery not install a new one also. They said that the $211 was for the registration only and that the job takes 2 1/2 hours to do. I think that's a bunch of BS as I read that some else took it to get registered and it takes 1/2 hr. at a price of $55. I also heard that no one seems to have a problem with not registering a new battery. I would like to hear from someone who installed a new battery without registering it and how much of a battery life reduction they experienced. For $211, I can buy a new battery and still be $ ahead.

04-27-2010, 11:31 PM	#1
Guam128i Enlisted Member 3 Rep 36 Posts Drives: 08 328 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	Replacing the Battery on a E90 I have had my 06 325i since new. It only has 18K miles. The warranty is over. The car gets parked for weeks with no starting issues. About 2 days ago I tried to start the car and it could barely crank but still got it started. After this noticng that the battery was weak I hooked up a 2A battery tender. After 3 days the car will not start. hooked it up to a 25A battery charger (while still in the car and connected) for about 8 hours and still would not start. Jump started the car and then drove it for about 20 miles keeping the revs up, while driving the radio would not have any volume to it and the brake light and ABS warning lights keep going on. When I got home I chyeck the brake fluid and the level is okay. Tried to start the car again and it is completely drained. Called the BMW dealer on Guam and asked about this and they said the battery is dead. if i replaced the battery it would have to be the original one ($367) because the computer needs to know what battery it is and they also need to program the computer as to the charging rate it needs to be at. I can buy an replacement battery (Interstate) for $135. I have an 04 Subaru STI with 16K miles on original battery a Mitsubishi Evolution with 46K miles just replaced the battery last year and never had this problems or things that needed to be done just to replace the battery. I was also told that I should not disconnect the battery from the car or else I will need to take it to the dealer to reprogram, too late I already took it out to try and re-charge the battery. I can see it coming I cannot compare a BMW to a Japanese car but why make this a complicated thing? Any comments or suggestions? I think getting a $367 battery plus reprogramminng is crazy. Last edited by Guam128i; 04-28-2010 at 12:27 AM..
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04-28-2010, 07:48 AM	#2
ENINTY Banned 173 Rep 3,415 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Sport Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Virginia iTrader: (0)	So you need a new battery plain and simple. The dealer is correct, the car needs to be reprogrammed. When you get the next one get a Battery Tender and keep the battery on storage charge when the car is not being driven. Or drive it more than 4K miles a year.
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04-28-2010, 08:31 AM	#3
mike3000fl Banned 138 Rep 2,731 Posts Drives: 06 330i Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Tampa iTrader: (0)	myself and several others have just bought an old school wally world battery and threw it in without the recode registration, no issues. $70 and a 3 year warranty even if it does fail. hard to beat that.
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04-28-2010, 09:47 PM	#4
Chriztofor Colonel 103 Rep 2,783 Posts Drives: '06 325i and '13 X5 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chicago Burbs iTrader: (1)	^ +1 I plan on changing my battery with a Walmart battery too.
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04-29-2010, 10:33 AM	#5
csupernova Captain 32 Rep 606 Posts Drives: E90 330i Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NYC iTrader: (7)	I changed mine with autozone battery. Screw the dealership !!!!
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05-04-2010, 10:47 AM	#6
matrix76 Major 61 Rep 1,300 Posts Drives: 2020 Z4 M40i Black/Red Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Port Dover, Ontario iTrader: (1)	The bar is set too low! Hi guys, newbie but an oldie. I could not resist responding to this thread as I am currently going through the same problem with my 09 323i. I bought the car new last fall and seem to have had issues right away. The fuel injection system turns out needed and firmware and software update which fixed that problem. Now I am experiencing a battery issue. I first notice that my personal setting were restoring themselves back to factory settings when I started the car. This happened frequently and I sent it in to get checked out. The car came back days later with a report of "no problem found". A week later the same thing happen. The only common denominator in all this that I could determine was the battery. I took out my multi-meter and tested the battery after the car had been running for an hour or so. To my surprise it was reading 11.92V. Well after few test starts I measured the voltage dropping to 11.81V which I know is too low. Also when it was running the voltage went over 15V and stayed there. I video taped this process and put it up on You Tube and sent the link off to the service department. After explaining it to them they took my car back and were able to recreate the low voltage situation I described . They informed me that my battery was functioning at 70%. I explained to them that this battery issue is causing my personal setting to continue to go back to factory default settings, and they agreed. The problem now is that BMW will only replace the battery, under warranty, when it goes below 50%. Wow, I am having functionality problems now at 70%, as the battery deteriorates to 50% I will be stranded numerous times. I am sure when it gets to 60% I will be having major problems. Their recommendation to correct this problem is to install a new BMW battery in my car and bill me for it. Come on, "BMW", at 50% the car is dead by then. This is an ongoing issue and my car is still there. They will be calling me after their managers meeting to let me know what they have decided to do. You Tube video link is: __________________ Brian Black Sapphire, Black w/Burrwood Trim & Shifter, 162's, Mtec H8 AE's, DS1 HID 6000K Last edited by matrix76; 05-06-2010 at 10:36 AM..
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05-04-2010, 10:59 AM	#7
Chriztofor Colonel 103 Rep 2,783 Posts Drives: '06 325i and '13 X5 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chicago Burbs iTrader: (1)	^ Go to a different dealer! If not, take all their names and write a letter to BMW NA. Is there a lemon law in Canada? If so, tell your current BMW manager that you will start the process. This is unacceptable for a 2009 BMW.
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05-04-2010, 11:39 AM	#8
m_thompson Major 133 Rep 1,416 Posts Drives: M-Sport 128i, 328xi, 3.0CS Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: New England, USA iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 128i [0.00] 1972 3.0CS [10.00]	The battery in our '08 328xi was replaced under warranty for the same symptoms. __________________ '09 128i - Black Sapphire Metallic\Coral Red\Glacier Silver\N51 DISA\6MT\Navigation\Premium\M-Sport\Heated seats\Xenon\Headlights\iPod\Smartphone\Euro Delivery
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05-04-2010, 10:37 PM	#9
AlanAZ Captain 40 Rep 818 Posts Drives: E90 325i sport manual Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Scottsdale, AZ iTrader: (4)	It was an E46, but I had a battery replaced when it was less than a year old under warranty. They did have to keep the car overnight, charging it, and since it wouldn't hold (the car wouldn't start), replaced it.
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05-07-2010, 01:55 PM	#11
koreez88 Всем привет ;) 146 Rep 3,358 Posts Drives: Tesla Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: USA iTrader: (12)	I threw in a battery from Pep Boys, $90, no reprogramming whatsoever, works like a charm. For almost 6 months now.
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05-12-2010, 10:27 PM	#14
NaTuReB0Y Powered By 36DD 337 Rep 7,369 Posts Drives: 2006 E90 Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Inland Empire iTrader: (12)	i think my battery is going bad too.......... the battery light came on.....and then my car started choking...... having driving the car in a week.....maybe i'll pick up an Autozone battery this weekend..... what do i disconnect first? black or red? __________________ 2006 E90 330i Jet Black \| 20" WORK VS-XX \| FK452 \| H&R Sport on Koni Yellow \| REMUS QUAD
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05-13-2010, 10:38 AM	#16
Chriztofor Colonel 103 Rep 2,783 Posts Drives: '06 325i and '13 X5 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chicago Burbs iTrader: (1)	Keep the car running during the switch? That doesn't sound right, you may risk blowing something. Never heard that done before. I personally wouldn't do that.
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05-13-2010, 11:18 AM	#17
Me_Hi Major 34 Rep 1,488 Posts Drives: * Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: * iTrader: (13)	+1.... the car running just on the alternator will damage it+ plus the danger of shorting something.... rather start from scratch with the car's settings than replace alternator. __________________
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05-13-2010, 11:05 PM	#20
NaTuReB0Y Powered By 36DD 337 Rep 7,369 Posts Drives: 2006 E90 Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Inland Empire iTrader: (12)	OKAY.....Too many advices....I'll wait til' the weekend to switch out my battery. Thanks...by the way. __________________ 2006 E90 330i Jet Black \| 20" WORK VS-XX \| FK452 \| H&R Sport on Koni Yellow \| REMUS QUAD
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05-24-2010, 10:15 PM	#22
Brad from the OC Private First Class 15 Rep 153 Posts Drives: 325Ia Alpine White Join Date: May 2006 Location: Southern California iTrader: (0)	I have a 2006 e90 purchased in Sept. 05. I just had a yellow battery symbol appear on my dash and checked my manual. It said the battery was bad, so I went to Autozone and purchased a Duralast 49DL for around $90. Prior to the purchase Autozone load tested my OEM battery and it said it was bad with 56% charge. The OEM battery was manufactured in June 2005 and lasted until late May 2010. I took the new battery home and installed it and the car wouldn't start. I took the battery out and returned it back to Autozone and they load tested the battery and they said it was bad with 34% charge. They looked at the date on the side of the battery and it said 8/08. It was almost 2 years old! They got me a new battery and charged it up. While I was waiting, I removed my OEM battery and compared it to a Duralast 94R DLG. It cost about $50 more, but was an exact fit. The 49DL is about 1 1/2 in. longer and about 1/2 in. less in height, but still fits in the battery compartment without modification. So I just got the 94 R DLG and it worked fine and everthing fits perfectly including the vent hose and the hold down clamp. I called the stealership today to get a price estimate on getting the new battery registered. They said $211. I said that I just wanted to get the computer reset and register the new battery not install a new one also. They said that the $211 was for the registration only and that the job takes 2 1/2 hours to do. I think that's a bunch of BS as I read that some else took it to get registered and it takes 1/2 hr. at a price of $55. I also heard that no one seems to have a problem with not registering a new battery. I would like to hear from someone who installed a new battery without registering it and how much of a battery life reduction they experienced. For $211, I can buy a new battery and still be $ ahead.
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