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Wheel torque settings
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03-24-2011, 09:01 AM | #3 |
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03-24-2011, 09:13 AM | #4 |
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Did I read somewhere that locking bolts should be slightly less, or I imagining that?
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03-27-2011, 04:31 PM | #10 |
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03-28-2011, 02:54 AM | #12 |
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Its the seat friction that keeps to bolts tight, and torque settings are based on them not being greased unless stated other wise.
If its fully greased then the same torque will be result in the bolt being much tighter, maybe damaged. If greased, they'll also vibrate loose much more easily. |
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03-28-2011, 03:01 AM | #13 |
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Adding lube to the thread, would necessitate a reduction in torque values.
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03-28-2011, 03:42 AM | #14 | |
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(Just being pedantic )
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03-28-2011, 03:45 AM | #15 |
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03-28-2011, 03:51 AM | #16 | |
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No grease on thread No grease on seats No grease on wheel face / hub And IMO its not the threads that bind anyway as they are like metals (steel / steel), its the seat where the most friction will be IMO and that's where steel meets soft alloy. Also the bolt seat is tapered for a reason - to really lock up tight - that's the whole point. Last edited by doughboy; 03-28-2011 at 03:57 AM.. |
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03-28-2011, 08:17 AM | #17 | |
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03-28-2011, 08:24 AM | #18 | |
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03-28-2011, 09:10 AM | #19 |
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Sorry, threads do bind of course, but on our type of car wheel bolts the main friction areas is the tapered seat that is designed to really bind tight and hold the bolts in. If it was a flat seat then we'd need vibration washers or nylock threads or similar anti-loosening parts.
So what we're saying then is NEVER oil or grease any part of the wheel studs / bolts or seats? Last edited by doughboy; 03-28-2011 at 09:18 AM.. |
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03-28-2011, 09:16 AM | #20 | |
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03-28-2011, 09:22 AM | #21 | |
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It gets all over the place when you take wheels off, and even dry they come out easy enough with a bloody great 17mm socket and wrench anyway. That squeak you get from a dry wheel bolt in the last 1/8 turn means it's properly tight and isn't going anywhere. |
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