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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > My new e92!! And a few MT questions.



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      06-15-2011, 10:30 PM   #1
jetblackcoupe
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My new e92!! And a few MT questions.

I just got a 2008 CPO 335i on Friday, and I love it! It's jet black on black leather... Here are a few pics:











Plans for the car:

-black kidneys
-black reflectors
-black window trim
-lux h8
-20% tints
-Avant Garde M310 gunmetal

Love the way it drives, although I could use a few tips for manual transmission (this is my first MT car).

1) Getting into first: I take a while to get into first, REALLY slowly easing off the clutch while giving a good amount of gas. Is this how it's supposed to be or is this bad for the clutch? Will I get quicker with time?

2) First to second: This was a jerky shift for me in the beginning... now there are only two ways I can get it to be (relatively) smooth. Either I shift at 2000-2500 rpm really slowly while rev matching as I engage the clutch, or I shift at 3500-4500 rpm quickly and catch 2nd gear at the right rpm. Which should I be doing, if any?

3) For other shifts like 3 to 4 or 4 to 5, if I shift slowly, I see the synchros doing work to get the rpm's up to where they should be. It feels smooth, but should I be the one rev matching on these upshifts to avoid synchro wear or should I shift quicker?

Thanks!!!!
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      06-15-2011, 10:38 PM   #2
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Congrats on the new car!

You barely need any gas to get going from a start. I usually use between 1k and 1.5k rpm for a level surface and yes you will get much faster. I would avoid letting the clutch out with over 2k rpm.
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      06-15-2011, 11:13 PM   #3
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Congrats on the new car, but with all do respect, driving standard is day one of being a man. I don't know how to answer your questions, I just get in my car and be awesome.
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      06-16-2011, 12:39 AM   #4
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Congrats on your new ride! I almost have the same exact mods, except I'm waiting for MPT to come to socal to get the shadowline trim and my M310's are Matte Black. You should also look into blacking out the lower grills, there's a guide in the DIY section that is cheap and easy
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      06-16-2011, 12:43 AM   #5
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congrats and car looks good. Ive never seen a coupe with that wheels though! its same as my sedan (07 335i) and ive only seen sedans have it. its the best wheel on BMW in my opinion... i just love that wheel. i wonder how it got on coupe. most delicious looking wheels, no matter what year or model. once again, congrats!
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      06-16-2011, 02:12 AM   #6
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I can't answer your questions, but I did want to come in and say that is a beautiful car.

Enjoy her. She will bring you lots of happiness
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      06-16-2011, 02:15 AM   #7
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congrats on the car and manual is great. ill never drive an auto again for as long as i can for-see at this moment.
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      06-16-2011, 10:31 AM   #8
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Thanks everyone! Yeah, the M310's in gunmetal should be unique. I'm also planning on getting the OEM aero lip and replica m3 side skirts. I'll look up the DIY black lower grilles.

bump for my questions
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      06-16-2011, 10:51 AM   #9
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The 1-2 shift is notoriously notchy. It seems to work well to go to about 3-3.5k and then shift quickly, also moving the shift knob in a backwards K pattern. At least that works for me to have a smooth shift. Also quickness is a factor. It is always better to catch the right RPM as they drop, instead of having to rev match using the gas all the time.

When shifting in other gears, do you feel that surge/lurch when you miss the right rpm? Eventually you will get used to just catching it at the right time and it will get smoother. Driving with the AC on alters it a bit as RPMs drop much faster so be careful with that.

Depending on your shoe size, heel toeing can be difficult. I use the ball of my foot on the brake pedal, and the other side/pinky toe side to dip onto the gas but that is all dependent how hard/deep i go on the brakes.
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      06-16-2011, 11:12 AM   #10
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Our cars have this stupid CDV valve which many remove. Congrats on the car but no sport package? You're missing out on the superior sport seats.
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      06-16-2011, 11:14 AM   #11
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buy and install a clutch stop. makes a world of difference even without the cdv delete.
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      06-16-2011, 11:28 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpride335i View Post
congrats and car looks good. Ive never seen a coupe with that wheels though! its same as my sedan (07 335i) and ive only seen sedans have it. its the best wheel on BMW in my opinion... i just love that wheel. i wonder how it got on coupe. most delicious looking wheels, no matter what year or model. once again, congrats!
If they are 17" wheels, I believe they came stock on the non-sport coupes in 07-08.
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      06-16-2011, 11:32 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T Rex84 View Post
I can't answer your questions, but I did want to come in and say that is a beautiful car.

Enjoy her. She will bring you lots of happiness
x2
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      06-16-2011, 11:34 AM   #14
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+1 for bump stop and CDV delete.

Makes a huge difference in terms of clutch feel/engagement.
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      06-16-2011, 11:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetblackcoupe View Post
1) Getting into first: I take a while to get into first, REALLY slowly easing off the clutch while giving a good amount of gas. Is this how it's supposed to be or is this bad for the clutch? Will I get quicker with time?

2) First to second: This was a jerky shift for me in the beginning... now there are only two ways I can get it to be (relatively) smooth. Either I shift at 2000-2500 rpm really slowly while rev matching as I engage the clutch, or I shift at 3500-4500 rpm quickly and catch 2nd gear at the right rpm. Which should I be doing, if any?

3) For other shifts like 3 to 4 or 4 to 5, if I shift slowly, I see the synchros doing work to get the rpm's up to where they should be. It feels smooth, but should I be the one rev matching on these upshifts to avoid synchro wear or should I shift quicker?
The car looks great. Somewhere around here, there is a "how to drive MT" thread that is several pages long. You may want to read it, but here are some quick answers.

1 - Getting into first: You will get better with time. Basically, you always ease into gears, especially first gear and reverse, but you can ease into them fast or slow. When you do it slow, you're riding the clutch, which does wear it, but it's normal for people to do that when learning so don't worry too much. You'll get better at feeling the engagement point.

When you shift quick, you do exactly the same thing as you're doing right now, you just do it all a lot faster so that eventually you aren't really riding the clutch at all.

And BTW, everyone just rides the clutch a bit when reversing, because you're usually only going a few feet.

2 - First to second: The 1-2 shift on all E9x is a little clunky. Don't worry about it. I find it smoother at higher RPMs for 1-2, but bottom line is don't worry about it.

3 - Other shifts (3-4, 4-5): You shouldn't "see" the synchros do anything. When you see the revs increase to the right RPM, that's the clutch speeding up the engine, not the synchros. You may be able to "feel" the synchros working through the gearshift, but that's another story. As far as 4-5, 5-6 or whatever, if your revs are too low when you release the clutch, then you're shifting too slow. You'll get better. IMO don't rev-match upshifts, just shift quicker. Once you're good at shifting, do rev-match (blip) your downshifts, though.

As an aside, you don't "need to do" CDV delete. A lot of people do it, but IMO it's an overblown issue. The BMW MT is good as it was made and the CDV won't screw things up for anyone doing normal driving. You'll notice the CDV if you drag race, though.
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      06-16-2011, 11:38 AM   #16
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Congrats on the new car! Here's my thoughts on your shifting issues:

1. Shifting into first. There is really not much reason to shift into first unless you are already at a stop, then it should be easy. Shifting while you're still rolling should be a gentle endeavor.

2. Shifting first to second. Gently allow the gear lever to move into second and try letting out the clutch slower ? I can shift at pretty much any RPM without it being jerky, just with varying rate of clutch release. If you are accelerating hard, you should be able to shift very quickly with quick clutch release.

You should not need to rev match to have smooth shifting. If you're having that much trouble have a mechanic take a look at it.

Good plan for cosmetic mods, be aware though that with your auto dimming mirrors and 20% tint, your side and rear visibility at night will be shit. I have 30% and I can't see crap out of my mirrors at night.
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      06-16-2011, 11:44 AM   #17
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nice ride..

and mated to the 6MT is the only way to go.

getting into 1st: should not require much gas at all. you should be getting a rolling start or parking lot speed in this gear without RPMs higher than 1.5-3K

1st -> 2nd: this is notchy (somebody will harp on me for that term). I'm coming from an Integra and that was buttery smooth shifting gears. BUT.... you easily get used to it and it's really not a big deal after a couple weeks.

she seems to have a lot of dead space pressing the clutch - some ppl have had good luck w/ the Clutch Stop one poster mentioned earlier. i've not tried that but I just keep in mind that i don't need to press teh clutch down to the floor, instead.

higher gears: she wants to be driven! don't worry about slow shifting...

enjoy!
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      06-16-2011, 12:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdub679 View Post
+1 for bump stop and CDV delete.

Makes a huge difference in terms of clutch feel/engagement.
This. It made it interesting to drive even after driving manuals for 10 years. I can imagine it would be a real pain when first learning. Either way lots of practice will help. The hill assist should help you a bit too.
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      06-16-2011, 11:41 PM   #19
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Congrats man, and nice pickup. 6MT

Not much I can add to what has already been said.

Getting into first: after a week or two, your foot will automatically come up to the grab point and you will get a lot faster at getting into gear. I usually throw 1.5k RPM and then ease on the clutch, the revs will fall but not too much and ... you're off.

1-2, 2-3 - I don't shift before 3500RPM. Seems like the car likes to shift above 3000 RPM in almost all gears except for 5/6; I usually shift into those between 2.5-3k RPM
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      06-16-2011, 11:42 PM   #20
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congrats, did the car come with the basketball haha
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      06-17-2011, 12:55 AM   #21
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just to clarify the 1-2 shift is always "sticky" sometimes i feel like i have to really put it into gear. I noticed tho that if i shift from 3-4 and back to 3 and then to 2 (drop into two) its a lot smoother. Is that wierd?
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      06-17-2011, 02:06 AM   #22
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1) Getting into first: I take a while to get into first, REALLY slowly easing off the clutch while giving a good amount of gas. Is this how it's supposed to be or is this bad for the clutch? Will I get quicker with time?

No. This is the worse advice people told me when I was learning to drive my first MT. It's not how slow you let off the clutch. The key is to find the engagement point right where the clutch starts to grab. You can let out the clutch as fast as you want, but when you get right to that engagement point, you need to PAUSE and give a blip of throttle and then ease off the rest of the way. If you release the clutch in one slow linear fashion, you'll never be smooth.

To find the engagement point on the clutch, try to get your car started without using the throttle. Ease off the clutch slowly until the car starts to lurch and revs begin to drop. That's the engagement point. When that happens, PAUSE... then ease up very slowly until you fully release the clutch. Do that a few times and you will know where the engagement point on the clutch is.

Then, just release the clutch briskly and PAUSE at the engagement point and ease off the rest of the way as you give it blip of throttle.


2) First to second: This was a jerky shift for me in the beginning... now there are only two ways I can get it to be (relatively) smooth. Either I shift at 2000-2500 rpm really slowly while rev matching as I engage the clutch, or I shift at 3500-4500 rpm quickly and catch 2nd gear at the right rpm. Which should I be doing, if any?

Jerky shift = you're letting the clutch out without slightly pausing at the engagement point again. Just as in 1st gear, once you've identified the engagement point, when you shift into 2nd, let the clutch out quickly, but PAUSE at the engagement point, then ease off the rest of the way while giving a bit of gas. It will be smoother.

3) For other shifts like 3 to 4 or 4 to 5, if I shift slowly, I see the synchros doing work to get the rpm's up to where they should be. It feels smooth, but should I be the one rev matching on these upshifts to avoid synchro wear or should I shift quicker?

No need to rev match on upshifts. As you shift into higher gears, the RPMs will automatically drop a bit when you let off the gas and it will put you close enough to the right RPM that you'll be fine.

When you downshift, that's when you want to rev match and that is part of what makes driving a M/T car fun. Executing perfectly rev matched shifts at first, then doing it while heel-toeing.

Good luck and keep practicing.
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