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? about JBD
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01-31-2012, 08:51 PM | #1 |
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? about JBD
For those of you with JBD is traction control kicking in when the car shifts from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration? If so, please state whether you have the sport package, RFTs, condition of your tires and what percent your running your JBD. Thanks.
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01-31-2012, 09:33 PM | #2 | |
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01-31-2012, 11:21 PM | #3 |
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got torque?? anyways yes its normal for the traction control to kick since the car wants to pull sideways, I even had it happened once shifting into 3rd in the rain. It happens on my 18 inch Bridgestone potenzas and even worse on my 18 inch blizzaks.
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02-01-2012, 11:42 AM | #5 | |
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02-01-2012, 01:16 PM | #6 |
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with sport pack and Michelin pilot sports usually spins most of 1st if tires are cold.
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02-01-2012, 09:03 PM | #7 |
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OK. Thanks for the replies guys. Most cars will spin tires when the road is wet. I'm interested in hearing from people that can or cannot spin their tires in 50+ degree weather and tires warmed up. State whether you have sport package and type and condition of tires.
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02-02-2012, 10:05 AM | #8 |
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pointless thread is pointless.
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02-02-2012, 02:29 PM | #10 |
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If you think you're not making the power you should dyno it.
Any stock d will trigger the TC from a stop or slow rolling start. my car stock with the 255/40/18 pilot sport ps2 it came with will trigger the TC anytime I hammer it from a stop. And that is a very grippy street tire. If the tires are really heated up they will still trigger TC but slip a lot less if tc is off.
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02-02-2012, 03:30 PM | #11 |
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Don't forget about the road surface and condition of the road.
If you're on asphalt you'll tend to have way more grip imop. Especially if its new. Just crank it up to 100%. I'm curious to know if it throws a code. |
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02-02-2012, 06:59 PM | #12 |
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OK. I guess I have been outed. Didn't want to go on record I was using one but probably just being paranoid.
I was running 90% and I wasn't sure it was working. Turned it up to 100% and it didn't feel any different. Car didn't throw any codes. I turned it down to 0 and drove a while. Car was slower but not a dramatic difference. I then turned it back up to 100% and I could feel it was faster but not the bat of of hell faster that everyone talks about. After turning it back up to 100% car went into reduced power mode twice. I had the can tool installed and it reset the codes. I then drove around for another half hour without any issues. Car didn't throw any more codes. I can't tell any difference between 90% and 100%. I can hammer the throttle from a stop in M1 with no traction control intervention. Same goes for shifting from M1 to M2. It's probably working just fine. My previous car was an '08 M3 so maybe I'm just used to different power. I bought it from Rakimb17 and his car was in a wreck so I was wondering if something might be wrong with it. Terry and Burger thinks its fine. I'll try to get the car on a dyno at some point or find someone in KC that has a chipped D to compare it to. Last edited by hammick; 02-02-2012 at 07:07 PM.. |
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02-02-2012, 07:41 PM | #13 |
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When turning up to 100% make sure you give the car time to adjust to it. (you'll throw codes) Meaning don't floor it at every chance you get. Ease into it. I've been 100% for 10,000 miles and no codes. (knocks on wood). Car rears slip in 1st to 2nd when pushed, dry or wet. I have new (8,000 miles) mich pilot sports 225 in front and 275 rears. Be safe.
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02-05-2012, 10:31 AM | #14 |
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Give it a few days without tinkering with it. I think the computer has to learn the new fuel tables for a little while. I drive 100 miles a day, so perhaps my car just learned the tune faster. But I do remember picking so significantly more power after a day or two.
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02-05-2012, 10:53 AM | #15 |
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I think it's working just fine. I have to assume the reason I can't spin the tires in warm temperatures is a testament to the suspension on our cars. Still not throwing any codes at 100%.
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02-05-2012, 12:36 PM | #16 |
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