best Auto X class for me?

[txz4]

So im curious what the best class is in auto x to be competitive? Im doing it for fun but im too competitive to not compare.

Mod list: rpi scoop/drop in filter, RPI axle back, euro headers. Thats it for important mods.

Right now im running BSP, im getting owned by modded s2000s and BS is even worse, nothing but s2000cr's on Hoosiers.

Im new to the sport and am having a hard time understanding the classes.

[BaldTyres]

With headers installed, your only choice is really BSP. I would suggest upgrading your suspension and tires/wheels. Look for some coilovers and sway bars. And also some wider, lighter wheels with some good, sticky tires - something like Star Specs or Hankook RS3s.

And, yes, the S2000s are killin' BSP this year.

[Trev]

For SCCA as you've found out those mods put you in BSP. If you want to be competitive there you'll need shocks & tires.

If you we're to take the car back to stock you'll be in AS. Can't tell you you'll be better off there either. Boxsters & Caymans are ruling it this year.

IMO it's no fun taking your hard earned kit off, so try your local SCCA club's reg's for a Street Tire class.

Either way your best bet is to put a thick skin on & learn from the quick guys. Ask for ride alongs & take whatever instruction you can get. Lastly check out the evolution ax school.

[txz4]

Originally Posted by Trev

For SCCA as you've found out those mods put you in BSP. If you want to be competitive there you'll need shocks & tires.

If you we're to take the car back to stock you'll be in AS. Can't tell you you'll be better off there either. Boxsters & Caymans are ruling it this year.

IMO it's no fun taking your hard earned kit off, so try your local SCCA club's reg's for a Street Tire class.

Either way your best bet is to put a thick skin on & learn from the quick guys. Ask for ride alongs & take whatever instruction you can get. Lastly check out the evolution ax school.

Thats basically what im going to do for the time being i think, im not ready to spend all that money on suspension and tire bits (just bought new PSS tires) at this time so i guess its just gonna be LEARN FAST for me

[kklin]

Originally Posted by txz4

So im curious what the best class is in auto x to be competitive? Im doing it for fun but im too competitive to not compare.

Mod list: rpi scoop/drop in filter, RPI axle back, euro headers. Thats it for important mods.

Right now im running BSP, im getting owned by modded s2000s and BS is even worse, nothing but s2000cr's on Hoosiers.

Im new to the sport and am having a hard time understanding the classes.

First thing to do is to read the rules. Like all sports, autocross has rules and ignorance is not an excuse. You might not understand them (I always confer with national drivers), but it is very important to read them - http://www.scca.com/downloads/#solo.

"That's it for important mods" - All mods are important. If it isn't stated as being allowed in your class, you can't legally belong to the class even if you think it offers no advantage. For instance, CDV delete is something many on this forum mentions as a "must". I have not checked what class permits that modification (let me know the section if anyone researches this). At your regional level, other drivers might not mind whatever mods you have, but it's probably best to be open and ask if your mod is okay with them.

As Trev said, see if your region has a local (non-national) street/road tire class for BSP. That is what I am running in the SCCA Philadelphia region.

Have fun!

[txz4]

Originally Posted by kklin

First thing to do is to read the rules. Like all sports, autocross has rules and ignorance is not an excuse. You might not understand them (I always confer with national drivers), but it is very important to read them - http://www.scca.com/downloads/#solo.

"That's it for important mods" - All mods are important. If it isn't stated as being allowed in your class, you can't legally belong to the class even if you think it offers no advantage. For instance, CDV delete is something many on this forum mentions as a "must". I have not checked what class permits that modification (let me know the section if anyone researches this). At your regional level, other drivers might not mind whatever mods you have, but it's probably best to be open and ask if your mod is okay with them.

As Trev said, see if your region has a local (non-national) street/road tire class for BSP. That is what I am running in the SCCA Philadelphia region.

Have fun!

I have read the rules, i was checking to see if there was perhaps something of use that i have missed, hence the "mods of importance" though i understand what your saying about the CDV, ive heard much on the topic as of late. Perhaps ill clarify next race with the higher ups. I just found out last race, we do have a street tire class, a little better for me i would hope.

Question for my fellow Auto Xers, what sort of camber are you running on the stock suspension, that is assuming at least one of you runs a stock suspension...

Thanks for the responses people! keep em coming!

[Kgolf31]

If you're in BSP, take advantage and get camber plates. Sadly only our cars can qualify for AS or BSP...no street tire classes (Although SCCA is introducing RTR Street Tire Rear) that might be nice to get into a PAX that takes advantage of street tires.

I'm still running on stock camber...haven't had a change to play around with it yet.

[Trev]

Sadly only our cars can qualify for AS or BSP...no street tire classes (Although SCCA is introducing RTR Street Tire Rear)

That's not quite what i've been told running with the Pac NW SCCA.
Both AS & BSP can run as Street Tire class, its a PAX'd class so everyone's times get amortized to bring them to parity. The trick to Street Tire is it s local region opt in.

For details see section D.1 of these regional supplemental http://www.oregonscca.com/media-libr...solo/supps.pdf

As you say the National tour & National championships this year have started a RTA (All) RTR (Rear) RTF (Front) class. I didn't realize untill last weekends San Diego tour event that this is also a PAX'd class. So we might actually be competitive in AS.
http://www.scca.com/events/news.cfm?eid=3893&cid=50923


In response to the stock camber, i've pulled the pins, which you can legally do as they are just there for ease of manufacturing. Running at just north of -2degrees front, -1.5degrees rear.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by Trev

That's not quite what i've been told running with the Pac NW SCCA.
Both AS & BSP can run as Street Tire class, its a PAX'd class so everyone's times get amortized to bring them to parity. The trick to Street Tire is it s local region opt in.

For details see section D.1 of these regional supplemental http://www.oregonscca.com/media-libr...solo/supps.pdf

As you say the National tour & National championships this year have started a RTA (All) RTR (Rear) RTF (Front) class. I didn't realize untill last weekends San Diego tour event that this is also a PAX'd class. So we might actually be competitive in AS.
http://www.scca.com/events/news.cfm?eid=3893&cid=50923


In response to the stock camber, i've pulled the pins, which you can legally do as they are just there for ease of manufacturing. Running at just north of -2degrees front, -1.5degrees rear.

I've been pushing for my region to get a Street Tire PAX. Other areas in Ohio have it, just not mine. You're still running AS or BSP...but you're not in a DEFINED ST_ class, such as STU (Like the E46 M3).

I guess I should of made myself clearer. The region should have it sometime this year. It'll be interesting how I settle in with others once it does happen.

[txz4]

Originally Posted by Trev

That's not quite what i've been told running with the Pac NW SCCA.
Both AS & BSP can run as Street Tire class, its a PAX'd class so everyone's times get amortized to bring them to parity. The trick to Street Tire is it s local region opt in.

For details see section D.1 of these regional supplemental http://www.oregonscca.com/media-libr...solo/supps.pdf

As you say the National tour & National championships this year have started a RTA (All) RTR (Rear) RTF (Front) class. I didn't realize untill last weekends San Diego tour event that this is also a PAX'd class. So we might actually be competitive in AS.
http://www.scca.com/events/news.cfm?eid=3893&cid=50923


In response to the stock camber, i've pulled the pins, which you can legally do as they are just there for ease of manufacturing. Running at just north of -2degrees front, -1.5degrees rear.

How is this setup on the street for normal driving? this is my "drive anytime i get a chance car", so i dont want to have a car i cant drive on the street just to be better on the track. I need a good compromise.

[Trev]

How is this setup on the street for normal driving?

I hate to say this but it depends on what you classify as normal driving. IMHO -2 on front isn't really needed for street. Somewhere in the -1.1 to -1.6 range dependent on how hard you like to push it in the turns.

For Front toe, running zero toe makes for a slightly nervous ride, figure it'll follow ruts & camber changes. I don't mind it because I like a quick change of direction without being as extreme as a little toe out.
Again IMHO for less sensitive front go with between 1/8th to 1/4 total toe in.

Someone else can chime in but i suspect i've just described the oem recommended settings from BMW.

[txz4]

after some research i think im going to run:

front: -1.5 camber - Toe in.02
Rear: -1.9 Camber - toe in .2

Got the setup from finnigen.