[vwong]

Cross-posting from the Maintenance section, http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ighlight=p1417. Thought I post here too. This section seems to have more traffic.

My car developed a problem. It's a 2009 E92 335i, N54, 6MT, all stock, no aftermarket tune. Let me start with the events.

A little over a week ago, I was trying to pass a slower car. Downshifted to 2nd gear and got on the throttle a bit heavy. I heard a small pop, and immediately the CEL came on. I was still able to drive home with reduced power. When I got home, I used the PLX Device and the Rev app on the iPhone to check for codes (that's all I have, I don't have the BT scan tool). I got P0238 and P0113. I searched here and found that it could be a charge pipe that popped off or the boost pressure sensor disconnected. The pipes appear to be fine, but the connector that is supposed to plug into the boost pressure sensor was dangling. I try plugging it back in, but the locking mechanism is broken.

Anyway, I took it to the dealer and have them check it out in case there was more than just the sensor. Well, they confirmed it was the sensor. Since I'm out of warranty, I decided not to have the dealer to replace the sensor. I bought one from ECS Tuning (BMW p/n is 13627585493). The part number is different from the one on the broken sensor (p/n 13627551429), but according to ECS Tuning, the 493 superseded the broken one.

I installed it about an hour ago. After the installation, I cleared the old codes using the iPhone app. When I first started the engine, it ran very smoothly. I decided to take it out for a test drive. It ran fine for about half a block. I tried to get on the throttle a little harder, I immediately felt something wasn't right. The car threw the CEL again, and this time the throttle was non-responsive. The engine would still idle, but it fluctuates between 1000 to about 1500 rpm. Because of this fluctuation, I was able to limp home and checked codes. It now has the codes P1632 and P1417. Again, I searched here and found that P1632 means "Throttle Valve Adaptation; Adaptation Condition Not Met". Not sure what P1417 is since it's not listed. I'm wondering since the part number of the new boost pressure sensor is different from the broken one, does the ECU need to register it in order to function properly?

Anything else I should check? I'd appreciate any help anyone can offer. Thanks very much.

[corbs09]

I am assuming you didnt change the sensor with the ecu in "sleep mode"

Go outside and undo your battery for about 30 minutes... re attach battery crank car, and go for a short not spirited drive for a few minues and see if the problem goes away.

Or try this adaptation reset.

1. During this process, never touch the brake pedal & keep the key inserted the entire time
2. Insert the key and push the start Button (all idiot lights on)
3. Press and hold gas pedal for 5 seconds
4. Without releasing the gas pedal, push the start Button
5. Release gas pedal
6. Wait a full 2 minutes for the electronics to cycle
7. Start car normally

[vwong]

Originally Posted by corbs09

I am assuming you didnt change the sensor with the ecu in "sleep mode"

Go outside and undo your battery for about 30 minutes... re attach battery crank car, and go for a short not spirited drive for a few minues and see if the problem goes away.

Or try this adaptation reset.

1. During this process, never touch the brake pedal & keep the key inserted the entire time
2. Insert the key and push the start Button (all idiot lights on)
3. Press and hold gas pedal for 5 seconds
4. Without releasing the gas pedal, push the start Button
5. Release gas pedal
6. Wait a full 2 minutes for the electronics to cycle
7. Start car normally

Thanks for the procedures. As for the sensor, I didn't know the ECU has a "sleep mode". Since the locking mechanism on the sensor was broken, the connector had been dangling in the engine bay for a week. I just replaced the sensor when the engine cooled to a level that I could get my hands on the charge pipe.

I also found out this morning that the charge pipe that connects to the throttle body was broken at the TB end. Could this be the reason why the rpm was fluctuating between 1000 and 1500 rpm?

I'm getting a new charge pipe, but won't be here until tomorrow. Do you think I still need to go through with the adaptation reset after the new charge pipe has been put in?

[corbs09]

Yes, a boost leak will cause a fluctuation of RPM.. fix that first!