[clambrou]

I just moved up from a 2008 328 to a 2011 335 (both amazing cars by the way). I also just switched from an automatic to a six speed, and I want to make sure I am doing it right. Here are my main concerns:

1. When I set off I use about 1500 rpm and let the clutch out slowly so it is nice and smooth, I am worried that I will burn out the clutch, is this the right RPM and should I let it out slowly?

2. When shifting from 1 to 2 I give a little gas as the clutch is engaging, again, to make it smoother. Is this ok?

3. Lastly, when I downshift (say coming to a stop or passing) I have to let the clutch out slowly or it'll jerk around, is this correct?

4. Ok this is the last question for sure! When I am accelerating hard the shifts are realllyyy "jolty" is that normal/how do I fix it?

Sorry for the long post I just want to make sure I am going to get the full life out of the clutch and I can keep the car running great for as long as possible. Thanks for the help!!

[chronos6]

Originally Posted by clambrou

I just moved up from a 2008 328 to a 2011 335 (both amazing cars by the way). I also just switched from an automatic to a six speed, and I want to make sure I am doing it right. Here are my main concerns:

1. When I set off I use about 1500 rpm and let the clutch out slowly so it is nice and smooth, I am worried that I will burn out the clutch, is this the right RPM and should I let it out slowly?

2. When shifting from 1 to 2 I give a little gas as the clutch is engaging, again, to make it smoother. Is this ok?

3. Lastly, when I downshift (say coming to a stop or passing) I have to let the clutch out slowly or it'll jerk around, is this correct?

4. Ok this is the last question for sure! When I am accelerating hard the shifts are realllyyy "jolty" is that normal/how do I fix it?

Sorry for the long post I just want to make sure I am going to get the full life out of the clutch and I can keep the car running great for as long as possible. Thanks for the help!!

The downshifting you will get used to when you catch the right rpm when letting the clutch go. Experiment a bit with it. some downshifts I get lucky and let go of the clutch fairly quickly and its smooth.

I dont add gas when going in between shifts. I get the car to a certain rpm then shift and I shift in such a timely manner that when the rpms drop im releasing thr clutch and by the time the clutch is totally disengaged the rpm is right where it should be so no jerking. You dont need to apply gas to every upshift at all.

2nd gear im still working on, but ive managed to get it smooth without applying gas as you mention.

Moving from a stand still/getting the car rolling that is exactly how you do it. Some people over rev then rev right where it catches and makes it smooth too. The clutch will always wear mostly thanks to 1-2 shifts.

[_Sinister_]

+1 ^
Sounds about right its kinda hard telling you rather than showing you. In all honesty you should check on YOUTUBE.

[Potty_Pants]

please research CDV...

clutch delay valve.

ppp

[evo335xi]

I'd try to release the clutch with 1000rpms or less. This car has been the easiest to get moving and shift out of every car I've owned. Adding the slightest pressure is all you need between shifts so you don't feel a jerk or bog.

[e90Mark]

1. 1500rpm from a standstill seems high to me.

[mnester]

I would recommend double clutching on the downshifts. Once you get good at it you will appreciate a proper downshift like that.

To get going I leave the car at idle and as soon as I feel the clutch catching, I gas it just a little while completely letting go of the clutch. For me that I think will wear out the clutch the least but it is difficult to make a smooth transition and not jerk the car sometimes. Over time you get good at it.

[calicolorado]

In addition to the above, I'd offer that you can simply let off the clutch without adding gas for a super gentle takeoff. It's not something you're going to do much in traffic but the clutch is a sweetheart and you can baby it if you want. The best thing I did was to remove the clutch delay valve (Cdv). It hobbles the car and generally makes clutch modulation artificial and difficult. To be safe you need to bleed the line afterwards, but that's a cinch with a helper. Enjoy that car!

[CJ421]

Originally Posted by clambrou

I just moved up from a 2008 328 to a 2011 335 (both amazing cars by the way). I also just switched from an automatic to a six speed, and I want to make sure I am doing it right. Here are my main concerns:

1. When I set off I use about 1500 rpm and let the clutch out slowly so it is nice and smooth, I am worried that I will burn out the clutch, is this the right RPM and should I let it out slowly?

2. When shifting from 1 to 2 I give a little gas as the clutch is engaging, again, to make it smoother. Is this ok?

3. Lastly, when I downshift (say coming to a stop or passing) I have to let the clutch out slowly or it'll jerk around, is this correct?

4. Ok this is the last question for sure! When I am accelerating hard the shifts are realllyyy "jolty" is that normal/how do I fix it?

Sorry for the long post I just want to make sure I am going to get the full life out of the clutch and I can keep the car running great for as long as possible. Thanks for the help!!

1. 1500RPM is a little high but OK when you're starting out (and expected). It takes time to learn the clutch. I launch my car at idle RPM which is about ~700RPM.
To better learn the clutch, go to an empty, level parking lot; take off your shoes and launch the car using the clutch pedal ONLY - it's a 'no gas' launch. Every manual car sold can do it. This will teach you the exact grab point. Practice this as often as you can.

2. Like the previous poster, I also don't use gas between upshifts; you're not shifting fast enough if you need to add gas. Rev higher in 1st gear (2500-3000RPM) - going to 2nd might be easier.

3. I rarely downshift in normal driving; I'd only go down a gear if my RPMs fall below ~1200 so I can stay in the power band. And when you do downshift at low RPMs like that, yeah, it's just letting the clutch out a little slower to avoid any jerkiness and gradually bring the motor up to the transmission's RPM.

4. You're not timing the shifts right. This will come in time; you will subconsciously adapt. Rule of thumb is: if you get pressed into your seat, you let the clutch out before the motor's RPMs dropped to the transmission's RPM for that gear; it's the opposite if you get jolted forward in your seat; the transmission requires a higher RPM for the gear you selected than the motor is at. The jolt in both scenarios is either the motor or the transmission being brought to the correct RPM so they are in sync.

Other tips:
--Keep your eyes on the road; don't look at the tachometer. Your timing will always be off if you rely on your eyes to tell you when to shift.
--Proper seating position. Use this video from Porsche:

--Stay in gear (do not coast in neutral).
--You're only allowed to slip the clutch continuously in reverse.

[clambrou]

I guess I am just trying to mimic what I remember from my auto with shift points and what not so I might be shifting to low or something like that. I appreciate all the help though, this is my first post and certainly not my last! I guess I will have to learn more about clutch techniques like double clutch and heel toe...

[MGT81]

I usually double clutch or at least match revs on downshifts. Makes things much smoother. 1500 rpms is a little much to get going. Try practicing using no gas and letting out the clutch slowly to get going. This should give you a better feel for how much throttle to use when starting off.

[MGT81]

Originally Posted by mnester

I would recommend double clutching on the downshifts. Once you get good at it you will appreciate a proper downshift like that.

To get going I leave the car at idle and as soon as I feel the clutch catching, I gas it just a little while completely letting go of the clutch. For me that I think will wear out the clutch the least but it is difficult to make a smooth transition and not jerk the car sometimes. Over time you get good at it.

Nice to see that I'm not the only who double clutches on downshifts. It's much easier on this car than it was on my WRX too.

[Gizm0]

I heel toe on downshifts every time. It makes a big difference (smooth downshifts) and should also lengthen the life of the clutch.

[paddy335]

Originally Posted by clambrou

I just moved up from a 2008 328 to a 2011 335 (both amazing cars by the way). I also just switched from an automatic to a six speed, and I want to make sure I am doing it right. Here are my main concerns:

1. When I set off I use about 1500 rpm and let the clutch out slowly so it is nice and smooth, I am worried that I will burn out the clutch, is this the right RPM and should I let it out slowly?

2. When shifting from 1 to 2 I give a little gas as the clutch is engaging, again, to make it smoother. Is this ok?

3. Lastly, when I downshift (say coming to a stop or passing) I have to let the clutch out slowly or it'll jerk around, is this correct?

4. Ok this is the last question for sure! When I am accelerating hard the shifts are realllyyy "jolty" is that normal/how do I fix it?

Sorry for the long post I just want to make sure I am going to get the full life out of the clutch and I can keep the car running great for as long as possible. Thanks for the help!!

First bit of advice, don't over-analyse it. When you get it right you'll know it and you can start repeating the same thing you did when you got it right, and then it will become subconscious.

Re your specific points:

1: 1500 is too high in the 335 (unless you are on a hill or trying to launch hard and fast). 1000 is more than enough. In fact like others have said here you can comfortably take off from idle revs in the 335.

2: I do that occasionally (the 1-2 extra accelerator) as it is the notchiest and most awkward of the shifts on the 335 for most people

3: Rather than being slow with the clutch, be quick and smooth. But don't dump the clutch - bad for clutch and very jerky

4: If you are accelerating hard you'll get joltier shifts regardless as the drivetrain is under it's highest level of stress. Again, concentrate on being quick and smooth and precise.

The other bit of advice I have - the 335i clutch has long travel, with a good chunk of dead travel at the bottom. An aftermarket clutch stop ($10 from BMS) removes a bit of that dead travel and means quicker and more precise clutch engagement.

[paddy335]

Originally Posted by Gizm0

I heel toe on downshifts every time. It makes a big difference (smooth downshifts) and should also lengthen the life of the clutch.

Yep for sure

[335BBS]

While double clutching may be fun there is no need or benefit from doing so.
OP, like others i would suggest 1500 is way too high and learning to release clutch pedal from idle is a great idea. If you need to blip the throttle on upshifts you are shifting too slowly. On downshifts you should ultimately learn to match the revs from the higher gear to the lower gear before releasing clutch pedal in lower. For instance, if you are in 4th at 3000 rpm the engine would probably be at about 4000 if you were in 3rd therefore you need to clutch, blip throttle to about 4000 rpm while shifting to 3rd then release clutch. This will take a while to figure out but its great fun and will save your clutch. Downshifting without matching revs will increase wear on your clutch. Heel and toe refers to braking with toe while blipping throttle with heel .

[MGT81]

Originally Posted by paddy335

The other bit of advice I have - the 335i clutch has long travel, with a good chunk of dead travel at the bottom. An aftermarket clutch stop ($10 from BMS) removes a bit of that dead travel and means quicker and more precise clutch engagement.

This. Installing a clutch stop (I went with the eBay one) makes a HUGE difference in ease of clutching and improving clutch feel. I paired mine with a ZHP shift knob and these two simple tweaks make shifting a joy.

[Gizm0]

That's why I love mt. So involving to drive...

[mnester]

Originally Posted by MGT81

Nice to see that I'm not the only who double clutches on downshifts. It's much easier on this car than it was on my WRX too.

Yea my only complaint is the drive by wire throttle in the 335i which gives a bit of delay. I'm coming out of an '04 WRX as well with a Streetlight flywheel and Stage 2+ clutch. I most definitely saw a huge benefit in double clutching in that car. I don't know if you would be able to downshift at all without it lol.

As far as getting it right and downshifting smoothly in the WRX, I probably had a 75-80% success rate. But I treated it like race car, so I didn't mind that much.

[mnester]

Originally Posted by 335BBS

While double clutching may be fun there is no need or benefit from doing so.
OP, like others i would suggest 1500 is way too high and learning to release clutch pedal from idle is a great idea. If you need to blip the throttle on upshifts you are shifting too slowly. On downshifts you should ultimately learn to match the revs from the higher gear to the lower gear before releasing clutch pedal in lower. For instance, if you are in 4th at 3000 rpm the engine would probably be at about 4000 if you were in 3rd therefore you need to clutch, blip throttle to about 4000 rpm while shifting to 3rd then release clutch. This will take a while to figure out but its great fun and will save your clutch. Downshifting without matching revs will increase wear on your clutch. Heel and toe refers to braking with toe while blipping throttle with heel .

While you don't "need" to double clutch, it will save your syncros and make your tranny last longer. Also, it will save the clutch from having to spin up the main input shaft which will put wear on it.

[335BBS]

Originally Posted by mnester

While you don't "need" to double clutch, it will save your syncros and make your tranny last longer. Also, it will save the clutch from having to spin up the main input shaft which will put wear on it.

Match revs exactly and you don't need synchros or clutch. I've driven race cars with no synchros just match revs. How much longer will tranny last if you dble clutch?

[paddy335]

Originally Posted by 335BBS

Match revs exactly and you don't need synchros or clutch. I've driven race cars with no synchros just match revs. How much longer will tranny last if you dble clutch?

I agree. Double-clutching is of no benefit. Rev-matching on the other hand ensures the smoothest possible integration of fast-spinning synchros.

The rest of your 335i will be disintegrating long before your transmission anyway