[AviatorBimmer]

As of late, I am getting a slight steering wheel shake/vibration as soon as I start applying moderate brake pressure. I've checked suspension components and they are all good. Thrust arm bushings were replaced not too long ago on both left and right.

Both pads and front rotors were replaced 30K miles ago and the pads still look great. The rotors are StopTech slotted/drilled rotors from Turner Motorsports.

Rotors look great visually and have never been resurfaced/cut, so this would be the first time.

Do you guys think the rotors need to be resurfaced/cut?

[CJ421]

It could be a rotor issue; it could also be a wheel issue.

Take the car up to highway speeds (or greater if permissible) and see if you feel any vibration; that'd indicate your wheel(s) either need balancing or are slightly bent. If not that, then it's likely the rotors.

I generally replace rotors as opposed to having them resurfaced for economic reasons (rotors will only last so long). I use the OEM ones from BMW and have yet to have an issue. I think I paid a little less than $300 for both fronts last time. Good luck.

[AviatorBimmer]

Originally Posted by CJ421

It could be a rotor issue; it could also be a wheel issue.

Take the car up to highway speeds (or greater if permissible) and see if you feel any vibration; that'd indicate your wheel(s) either need balancing or are slightly bent. If not that, then it's likely the rotors.

I generally replace rotors as opposed to having them resurfaced for economic reasons (rotors will only last so long). I use the OEM ones from BMW and have yet to have an issue. I think I paid a little less than $300 for both fronts last time. Good luck.

Thanks for the response!

Yes, it has been conformed, today as a matter of fact, that the rotors are warped. I will just wait a bit longer and put OEM rotors and pads in, next time around.

Thanks!

[CJ421]

Originally Posted by AviatorBimmer

Thanks for the response!

Yes, it has been conformed, today as a matter of fact, that the rotors are warped. I will just wait a bit longer and put OEM rotors and pads in, next time around.

Thanks!

Glad to hear. Also thanks for updating your post as a lot of these go without a real answer and help no one who's experiencing the same issues!

[SLOWER]

I just went through this as well. I believe they were original brakes, so they were replaced under maintenance at 44k miles. It would shake violently when you hit the brakes from 60-70mph, but otherwise tracked straight and had no vibrations.

[AviatorBimmer]

Originally Posted by CJ421

Glad to hear. Also thanks for updating your post as a lot of these go without a real answer and help no one who's experiencing the same issues!

For sure!

Originally Posted by SLOWER

I just went through this as well. I believe they were original brakes, so they were replaced under maintenance at 44k miles. It would shake violently when you hit the brakes from 60-70mph, but otherwise tracked straight and had no vibrations.

Yea, exactly what I feel. Mine are 30K miles old, but are aftermarket (StopTech). I'm definitely going OEM next time.

[spencers]

In the past I've seen it be rotors or tires

How old are the tires?

[Glowin]

Originally Posted by AviatorBimmer

Yes, it has been conformed, today as a matter of fact, that the rotors are warped.

How? You had a shop check the runout on the rotors?

I understood rotors rarely get warped and vibrations are almost always from uneven pad deposits?

Have you done a bed-in again? It solved most of my shaking issues.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

Funny enough, you started your thread about your Stoptech rotors just a day before mine, but I had missed yours when I posted about my issues. Mine are only 9 months old though, and have just 3000 miles on them:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=966742

[AviatorBimmer]

Originally Posted by Glowin

How? You had a shop check the runout on the rotors?

I understood rotors rarely get warped and vibrations are almost always from uneven pad deposits?

Have you done a bed-in again? It solved most of my shaking issues.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

Funny enough, you started your thread about your Stoptech rotors just a day before mine, but I had missed yours when I posted about my issues. Mine are only 9 months old though, and have just 3000 miles on them:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=966742

Hey bud,

Indy shop took a look and they determined it was a warped rotor. This is only by test driving the car because they never took the rotor off. Interesting the possibility that it could be uneven pad deposits.

I will look at that link closely and give it a shot. I have nothing to lose I guess.

Thanks!

[Agentphish]

My car is in the dealership right now (CPO) and I am having them check a front end vibration when driving.

I initially replaced pads and rotors and thats when I started to feel the vibrations. Even after 2 bedding/run-in attempts following Zimmerman rotor directions. Put the BMW OEM front rotors back on because they weren't really that bad, and I still felt the vibration.

So the dealer is checking out for me. Thankfully I have full trust in my SA and Tech who will be working on my car. Both of them are confident, pleasant to deal with, and have not done me wrong. They're also BMW enthusiasts like many of us. Really great guys.

[grzes]

Rotors will bend and can bend under heavy breaking conditions as they are exposed to great heat, heat and sudden temperature change (lets say due to going over the puddle of water) I had that happen to me many times. Also you can not exclude wheels out of balance or bend rims but that can be tested by driving at highway speeds unless the off balance is very minimal. Anyway, most of the time it is rotors if you only experience the vibrations during light breaking.

[Lotus99]

Except if it is really the rotors, doing a set or two of brake bed-ins should make no difference to the vibrations, which points to the "rotor warping myth" link posted by Glowin above.

Here's another thing it could be:

Originally Posted by Lotus99

Except if it is really the rotors, doing a set or two of brake bed-ins should make no difference to the vibrations, which in my case, diminished quite a bit, which points to the "rotor warping myth" link I posted.

Here's another thing it could be:

Well, depending how aggressive the pads are, they could potentially scrub the rotor of any built up material. That ends up being quite a bit of time/money to try out though when you could just replace the rotors and go with a decent sent of pads from the get fo.

In fact, I'd venture to say that the stock pads might be aggressive enough to not allow the deposits to develop to begin with...this is the only car where I haven't had to prematurely replace the rotors due to runout issues (which wasn't a result of nornal wear). For that reason, there's no way I'd stray from OEM once the stock setup wears out...

[Glowin]

Not sure if you're suggesting that the two bed-in sets I did were enough to almost fix a warped rotor, due to the aggressive nature of the pads?

I'm just going to be shocked if my Stoptech slotted rotors have warped after only 3000 miles... I'll be going in for a brake fluid flush and SS brake lines in a month, and will have them check the rotors.

[prepster]

My cross drilled/sloted rotors with hawk pads also do this. It vibrates alot when stoping suddenly on freeway speeds of 70mph...during city driving not so much but it does make a annoying grinding noise when coming to a stop (read something on here that it could be because they are crossdrilled)...but defitnitely thinking of going non-sloted/drilled rotors the next time

Originally Posted by Glowin

Not sure if you're suggesting that the two bed-in sets I did were enough to almost fix a warped rotor, due to the aggressive nature of the pads?

I'm just going to be shocked if my Stoptech slotted rotors have warped after only 3000 miles... I'll be going in for a brake fluid flush and SS brake lines in a month, and will have them check the rotors.

YOUR ROTOR IS NOT "WARPING." Reread the exact link you posted for a better understanding of why this is happening...I'd venture to guess it's the pad material itself.