[Philipangoo]

I was attempting to remove my suspension late last night, and had to call it quits because I was lacking some parts and knowledge on the removal.

First for the fronts, what size Torque socket do I need to remove this ? It looks like a specialty tool shape. Can anyone who removed their suspension themselves tell me what size it is or what tool they used ?

Secondly for the rear do you need to remove the carpeting in the trunk ? I have seen some posts stating that yes you need to, and a few posts saying that it is unnecessary. So do I just remove those 3 bolts pictured of the rear and pull it down ? How do you reach the top to adjust then? If it needs to be cut can someone take a picture inside their trunk of how or where they cut the carpet.

This is my first time to attempt a DIY suspension install. I kind of like tackling things myself but damn this car is a pain in the ass to take apart but I suppose that's a good thing. Thanks guys!

[Philipangoo]

Oops I forgot to write, what size torque socket is the rear also ? Just want to make sure I get everything on my trip to Autozone before I try again tonight and have to make another run lol.

[therealm3]

I am in for more info too. Might be doing DIY of M Performance suspension shortly after taking delivery of my F30.

on previous 3 series rear installs trunk lining had to come out. Don't even get me started on what pain in the ass it is on an E91. :-D Hoping its easier this time around.

Thanks!

[apexit]

The specialty socket is an e torx. I don't have an f30 but in my S4 to remove the rear suspension you would just remove that mount that you see. I would assume that removing the 3 bolts will allow it to come out.

[x.shell]

You can use a regular 14mm socket for the front e-torx bolt (I believe it's a 14mm). I've changed my suspension about 10 times now, and I've never had to use the e-torx sockets, although I would recommend getting a set for piece of mind. As for the rears, you do not need to go through the trunk. Those three e-torx bolts you see under the fender are the ones you have to remove to free the top hat. After you take out the strut, you can access the top of the top hat by pulling off the plastic protector/cover. Good luck.

[x.shell]

Also, if you're on OEM suspension right now, rent some spring compressors from Auto Zone for the front. Please.

[_bdiddyb_]

Those torx bolts were the least of my concerns. The gotchas for me were 1) Front Suspension, the nut that secures the top hat to the strut. A through socket and an allen wrench is needed. Good idea to also remove the disc rotor for easy access. Remember to tape the wheel fender to prevent scratch. 2)Rear Suspension, jacking up the spring "plate" enough to release stress so you can pull the bolt out from the joint easily. RealOEM calls this plate item#4 "Roll-over strut with rubber mount". Installing was the same pain in the azz. Do not force the bolt out. I needed a secondary jack to do this.

[Dippydo]

Geez what is that spaghetti wiring mess in the picture??

[Philipangoo]

JB4

[Philipangoo]

It's usually hidden and tucked under the plastic shroud that covers the tower and bar.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by _bdiddyb_

Those torx bolts were the least of my concerns. The gotchas for me were 1) Front Suspension, the nut that secures the top hat to the strut. A through socket and an allen wrench is needed. Good idea to also remove the disc rotor for easy access. Remember to tape the wheel fender to prevent scratch. 2)Rear Suspension, jacking up the spring "plate" enough to release stress so you can pull the bolt out from the joint easily. RealOEM calls this plate item#4 "Roll-over strut with rubber mount". Installing was the same pain in the azz. Do not force the bolt out. I needed a secondary jack to do this.

Agreed. the e-trox bolts were not an issue at all and also the least of my concerns. The nut that secures the top hats (both front and rear) require that special through socket and allen wrench combo. Or you could just do what I did and use an impact gun.

Also agree on rear control arm bolt being the PITA. A spare jack is essential. And when you're ready to put the bolt back in, a spare person and rubber mallet might be useful too.

Regarding the rotor, I've never had to remove the disc rotor.

OP, just look up the DIYs for E90s. Everything is essentially the same minus the rear top hat access point. Good luck.

[R12ax7]

Just installed mine last night and agree with some of the points mentioned above. A couple of additions:

1. It was challenging getting the front strut out of the clamp. I recommend having a second person to help here, one person using a crow bar or similar to pry the split of the clamp open and the other person pulling up with one foot on the brake caliper/hub.

2. For the fronts, turning the front wheel towards the side you are working on helps give you extra clearance with some of the wires.

Speaking of wires...i had trouble reconnecting one of the sensors as I just posted here: http://www.f30post.com/forums/showth...7#post15904137

Would love to hear if anyone has any thoughts on that.

[328if30ri]

how do you guys know how much to torque everything back too?

[ctodor]

Originally Posted by 328if30ri

how do you guys know how much to torque everything back too?

There is a sticky at the top of this forum with all the suspension torque specs.