[KwlAznKid]

this is for my own curiosity and research purposes, my shop says i need new front control arms (or well bushings but i will be replacing the whole arm).

i did some research on my own and it seems that there are 2 on each side (upper and lower) some people said that one of them tends to go out around 70-80K miles while the other lasts quite a lot longer, i'm curious which one my shop is referring to (yes I could ask them but i figure this could be useful information for everyone)

are there anyways to test which control arm/bushing is busted?

thanks

[rowingone]

fluid filled so if there are leaking there are bad . . .

[iturbo_bmw]

i would just upgrade to the m3 arms by trw or twr.. i forgot which one lol

[KwlAznKid]

Originally Posted by rowingone

fluid filled so if there are leaking there are bad . . .

black fluid right? do you know if the uppers or lowers are more prone to being worn out though? thanks

[KwlAznKid]

just climbed under my car to check, there are no obvious leaks when i look but when i take the pics i guess the flash brought up some black residue, is this the leak?


i don't know which one is considered UPPER and which lower, can anyone tell from just looking at the pics?
one of them(looks like it may be leaking)


other one (looks ok to me)

[StealYourFace]

Same issue here, I was just about to post.

I did mine at 80k miles, upper/lowers with M3 parts. I have a driver side front clunk and shimmy when I brake. Car now has 142k.
I don't want to do bother upper and lower again if I don't have to. Is it the upper (curvy looking part aka tension rod) or lower that causes these symptons, wears out quicker.

Thanks friends.

[kentgbr]

Originally Posted by KwlAznKid

just climbed under my car to check, there are no obvious leaks when i look but when i take the pics i guess the flash brought up some black residue, is this the leak?


i don't know which one is considered UPPER and which lower, can anyone tell from just looking at the pics?
one of them(looks like it may be leaking)


other one (looks ok to me)

The first pic is the upper control arm, AKA tension strut. Second pic is the lower
control arm, AKA wishbone. The tension struts have the fluid filled bushings that
are prone to leakage and can cause steering wheel shake as they wear out.

[KwlAznKid]

Originally Posted by kentgbr

The first pic is the upper control arm, AKA tension strut. Second pic is the lower
control arm, AKA wishbone. The tension struts have the fluid filled bushings that
are prone to leakage and can cause steering wheel shake as they wear out.

thanks so much for the answer!

[TNradcon]

If this has been covered elsewhere, I am sorry. I am as newbie as a Newby could be. I'm on beauty number two. First was a 328i ten years ago. I have graduated to turbo with a 335i. I need to replace my front control arms. There is no doubt about going to the M3 parts. I searched the forum (not for hours) and couldn't find any mention of the BMW parts vs TRW parts. Obviously, going to the manufacturers parts would be wise. With that said, I'm curious if someone has gone with the TRW, and what their experience has been. Thanks

[feuer]

Originally Posted by KwlAznKid

some people said that one of them tends to go out around 70-80K miles while the other lasts quite a lot longer
are there anyways to test which control arm/bushing is busted?

From what I have seen in the shop the lower control arm goes first and not because of it design but the way how is mounted and how bumps affect to ball joint.
The best way to check is to have the car up on the lift with the suspension unload. We use pry bars and/or huge chanel lock pliers

Originally Posted by rowingone

fluid filled so if there are leaking there are bad . . .

Although most often that is an accurate tell tell sign often it is not, as it might not be any leaks but the bushing went bye bye

Originally Posted by TNradcon

I searched the forum (not for hours) and couldn't find any mention of the BMW parts vs TRW parts. I'm curious if someone has gone with the TRW, and what their experience has been. Thanks

Seriously? More like you searched for less than a minute. TRW is THE manufacturer of the M3 control arms meaning they are identical minus the grind off M logo on the parts sold under the TRW name.

[PhaseP]

Although most often that is an accurate tell tell sign often it is not, as it might not be any leaks but the bushing went bye bye

Also it might have leaked but washed off, especially if undercarriage wash is used often.

[TNradcon]

Originally Posted by feuer

From what I have seen in the shop the lower control arm goes first and not because of it design but the way how is mounted and how bumps affect to ball joint.
The best way to check is to have the car up on the lift with the suspension unload. We use pry bars and/or huge chanel lock pliers


Although most often that is an accurate tell tell sign often it is not, as it might not be any leaks but the bushing went bye bye


Seriously? More like you searched for less than a minute. TRW is THE manufacturer of the M3 control arms meaning they are identical minus the grind off M logo on the parts sold under the TRW name.

1000 apologies

[Johnny Boost]

Originally Posted by TNradcon

1000 apologies

I had the TRW M3 control arms and tension struts installed last week along with an alignment. It is a night and day difference in steering feel and handling. I can't imagine what the car would feel like with rear control arms upgraded as well.

[CALWATERBOY]

Here's an illustration, from [here]:





You should replace in left/right pairs, and replacement of all 4 with M3 arms is very highly recommended, with M3 front sway....