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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Need help, installing DP's on 335i Xdrive



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      06-06-2014, 09:28 PM   #1
tampaturbom3
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Urgent, need help..installing DP\'s on 335i Xdrive

I watched the AR 34 minute YouTube video several times and got all the way to remove the V-band bolts and break the V-bands loose..... Only to realize my car has a brace that the video doesn't have and it's not just bolted on,,,, it's part of the subframe just in front of where the mid pipe connects at the back end of the DP's. How in the heck can the stock ones come out? I think if there weren't a front axle, I could probably pull them down and out frontwards,,, but there's no way with that axle.... Anyone know the answer?
Thank you
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      06-06-2014, 09:31 PM   #2
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You drop the subframe. The install is pretty hard so I just had it done by a local member that has done these. Cost me $200 and took him two hours on a lift.
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      06-06-2014, 09:42 PM   #3
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Will that change the alignment or anything? I have it on Rhino ramps and jack stands so I'm not sure if it would be able to be dropped like that or not.....ugh
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      06-06-2014, 10:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tampaturbom3 View Post
Will that change the alignment or anything? I have it on Rhino ramps and jack stands so I'm not sure if it would be able to be dropped like that or not.....ugh
You need to support the motor. To remove the K frame. Put the jack stands on the lift points on the rockers then use an engine lift or support bar to hold the motor in place. You can then drop the K-frame down to give enough clearance. You will need to remove 6 bolts between the frame and the K-frame. You also need to remove two bolts on each engine mount. All bolts are reverse torx(star sockets).
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      06-06-2014, 10:56 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Ingeniator View Post
You need to support the motor. To remove the K frame. Put the jack stands on the lift points on the rockers then use an engine lift or support bar to hold the motor in place. You can then drop the K-frame down to give enough clearance. You will need to remove 6 bolts between the frame and the K-frame. You also need to remove two bolts on each engine mount. All bolts are reverse torx(star sockets).
What he said.
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      06-06-2014, 10:58 PM   #6
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Can I either block the motor from the bottom with a stack of wood,,,, or do I need to use my jack? If it needs the jack,,,,I only have 1 jack, but lots to block the motor with. But if the motor has to be raised or wiggled (or something) then blocking it wouldn't work. Do you know if it would normally need moving/wiggling? And since the subframe seems to be still connected to the suspension, would it need any support? It seems that it could just lower as the bolts are loosened. But if blocking the motor is OK, then I could use the jack to support the subframe while removing the bolts. Please advise.
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      06-06-2014, 11:00 PM   #7
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I have stands in back and I have stands in front for redundancy -along with the rhino ramps (I'm paranoid when under a car), but do I need to remove the rhino ramps for the subframe to lower?
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      06-06-2014, 11:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tampaturbom3 View Post
I have stands in back and I have stands in front for redundancy -along with the rhino ramps (I'm paranoid when under a car), but do I need to remove the rhino ramps for the subframe to lower?
Yeah You'll need to pull the wheels. Should only need to drop the subframe a couple inches. Also I found lowering the motor slightly helped with lining everything up. Though Both times I've done this I pulled all suspension and pulled the whole k frame. Once on the XI the other on my 135i.
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      06-08-2014, 01:40 AM   #9
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Whew, finally all back together with my new DP's....I definitely don't recommend doing this on jack stands....... Every time when under the car, it seems a different tool is needed and when the engine is on the floor jack while lowering the subframe, it's very cramped. On the other hand, with the subframe lowered, pulling out the stock and putting in the new DP's is a breeze.
My main hassle was that it appeared that I had clearance around the pipes so I tightened everything up and one last look, the 2 pipes were touching in the upward bend. My hands are ripped up from trying wiggle and turn the pipes after loosening the bolts for the V-bands and exhaust flanges... once those V-bands take a bite,,,they do not want to let go again... what a pain...
when I looked in the window while the car was on jacks (off and no key around the car), I noticed the
shift indicator was lit in Park (the one LED at the shifter). Then after i drove around the block and parked the car, I notice that one LED light stays on. I've never noticed this before.... is it normal? or what causes it? I guess I should start a new thread for that issue. (after I do a search).
Thank you
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      06-08-2014, 05:49 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tampaturbom3
Whew, finally all back together with my new DP's....I definitely don't recommend doing this on jack stands....... Every time when under the car, it seems a different tool is needed and when the engine is on the floor jack while lowering the subframe, it's very cramped. On the other hand, with the subframe lowered, pulling out the stock and putting in the new DP's is a breeze.
My main hassle was that it appeared that I had clearance around the pipes so I tightened everything up and one last look, the 2 pipes were touching in the upward bend. My hands are ripped up from trying wiggle and turn the pipes after loosening the bolts for the V-bands and exhaust flanges... once those V-bands take a bite,,,they do not want to let go again... what a pain...
when I looked in the window while the car was on jacks (off and no key around the car), I noticed the
shift indicator was lit in Park (the one LED at the shifter). Then after i drove around the block and parked the car, I notice that one LED light stays on. I've never noticed this before.... is it normal? or what causes it? I guess I should start a new thread for that issue. (after I do a search).
Thank you
Congrats on getting it done. I didn't even bother knowing that the subframe had to be dropped. Paid a local member.

That led will always be lit... You're good.

What tune did you go with?
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      06-08-2014, 11:44 AM   #11
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OP, FYI there is a DIY on XI DP install, in the....XI section. Worth searching there and in the DIY before any major jobs, lot of good general info and may save many headaches later.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=drop+subframe
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      06-08-2014, 01:43 PM   #12
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Yup pain in the ass!!! Took me and my buddy 6 hours first time trying and of course trying to be extra careful and took a lunch break and a few other pissed off and walk around breaks haha well worth the time and hassle if you ask me
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      06-09-2014, 08:11 AM   #13
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Right now I'm on the Procede Open Flash Tablet running stage 1. I usually put in a 60/40 mix of 93 and e85.
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      06-09-2014, 08:18 AM   #14
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My plan was to do the DP's Friday night after work and then put in my Flex Fuel kit with pump on Saturday/Sunday.... but when I figured out the youtube video didn't match my car,,,, I was stuck.... so Saturday was spent finishing getting the DPs out and putting the new ones in. Then on Sunday I was too cut up (cuts on hands) and worn out to fool with the Flex Fuel kit.
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      06-09-2014, 11:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tampaturbom3 View Post
My plan was to do the DP's Friday night after work and then put in my Flex Fuel kit with pump on Saturday/Sunday.... but when I figured out the youtube video didn't match my car,,,, I was stuck.... so Saturday was spent finishing getting the DPs out and putting the new ones in. Then on Sunday I was too cut up (cuts on hands) and worn out to fool with the Flex Fuel kit.
Yup my plan was to go to a meet after my ins didn't happen spent the next day sore as hell and in bed haha
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