[dwells]

Hey everyone, I'm at just shy of 70,000 miles and have been considering an extended warranty for a while. However, as of my most recent repair, I'm realizing I've already replaced a lot of the common failure points and am questioning whether $2,000 for a warranty is worth it. Here's what's been done:

• Three HPFPs by 50,000 miles
• Spark plugs around 50,000 miles
• Laggy engine software update at 50,000 miles
• VANOS solenoids at 64,000 miles
• Water pump and thermostat at 68,500 miles
• Full replacement of both turbos happening now (69,500 miles)

The warranty I'm looking at would cover everything the original BMW warranty covers, with the exception of interior parts, fluids, and iDrive and would be $2,000 for three years and zero deductible. Prior to the water pump it seemed like a no-brainer, but now I'm not sure.

What else can I expect to need to replace over the next three years/thirty six thousand miles? The car is a 2007 coupe with no oil cooler, but it's been well maintained and sees regular oil changes (recently switched to Motul oil and a 7,500 mile interval).

Thanks!

[924er]

Sounds like your car held up considering you got a 2007. I wouldn't worry about anymore hpfp issues plus u may still be covered under the 10yr/120k mile and if not I seen HPFPs for 300ish not bad.

As for other repairs it looks like u already replaced some common weak points such as the waterpump.

The software issue won't come back

And you are getting a new set if turbos how nice.

iDrives rarely fail even tho it's possible it's rare because they are not DVD based anymore they are satellite

If I were you I woudnt buy that warranty and I would keep driving the car. Keep that money aside for future repairs IF it ever needed but you got the expensive stuff repaired already. For now I would learn some DIYs like spark plugs and basic things and at the same time try to find a cheap Indy. These cars are only expensive to maintain when you are paying a dealer or expensive mechanic to fix it.

It's hard to say what's gonna fail next. I would say probably carbon build up or suspension bushings

[dwells]

Originally Posted by 924er

For now I would learn some DIYs like spark plugs and basic things and at the same time try to find a cheap Indy. These cars are only expensive to maintain when you are paying a dealer or expensive mechanic to fix it.

It's hard to say what's gonna fail next. I would say probably carbon build up or suspension bushings

I have an indie shop, but they're not exactly cheap - $110 an hour. They are cheaper than the dealership though, and they do a hell of a lot better work. Their primary business is M car track racer builds, but they do N54 stuff too. Good guys.

As for what's next, I know my control arms are going to need work soon, and the carbon buildup definitely needs to be addressed. I'm also thinking the serpentine belt should probably be done soon as a preventative thing. Other than that, my only other worry is the injectors, but looking at the DIY, that's something I can probably do on my own.

Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll skip the warranty and just put the money into new control arms, carbon cleaning, and serpentine belt ASAP.

[Jklad]

I'm thinking that by 106k, you'll start to have some oil leaks.

Oil filter housing is common, and so is valve cover.

Also, turbo oil lines (make sure they are replacing the oil line gaskets that plug into the turbos) , oil pan gasket, and rear main seal are a possibility. If this warranty was for an extra 50k or 4 years id. recommend it for sure, But for extra 36k it's hard to say.

[924er]

Originally Posted by dwells

I have an indie shop, but they're not exactly cheap - $110 an hour. They are cheaper than the dealership though, and they do a hell of a lot better work. Their primary business is M car track racer builds, but they do N54 stuff too. Good guys.

As for what's next, I know my control arms are going to need work soon, and the carbon buildup definitely needs to be addressed. I'm also thinking the serpentine belt should probably be done soon as a preventative thing. Other than that, my only other worry is the injectors, but looking at the DIY, that's something I can probably do on my own.

Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll skip the warranty and just put the money into new control arms, carbon cleaning, and serpentine belt ASAP.

110/hour?!! damn thats what makes a BMW expensive to work on. but they must be high quality. You gotta find someone that doesn't charge hourly by the book. look for someone on craigslist or the forums. i found myself a tech thru the forums and works at bmw that can does mechanic work on the side for super cheap.

your control arm bushings and/or sway bar end links are worn but those are cheap. idk about the serpentine belt should be too bad. injectors are easy diy but u gotta find a coder

HOw does the car run and do u have mods?

[dwells]

Originally Posted by 924er

110/hour?!! damn thats what makes a BMW expensive to work on. but they must be high quality. You gotta find someone that doesn't charge hourly by the book. look for someone on craigslist or the forums. i found myself a tech thru the forums and works at bmw that can does mechanic work on the side for super cheap.

your control arm bushings and/or sway bar end links are worn but those are cheap. idk about the serpentine belt should be too bad. injectors are easy diy but u gotta find a coder

HOw does the car run and do u have mods?

Unfortunately there's not a whole lot of options in my area for shops/mechanics. There's not a lot of enthusiasts around here, so the vast majority of owners are people who know nothing about their cars and let their dealerships screw them. Even my indie shop is an hour or so away.

As for coding, that's something I taught myself and am pretty comfortable in since I've set it up and done it all properly. Properly updated and installed INPA setup and all that, so I can code injectors and pull codes easily.

The car seems to run pretty well if a little hesitant and rough here and there. Part of that was likely due to my failing turbos, but I know I've got a lot of carbon buildup that is likely the cause of the roughness and hesitation as well.

No mods at the moment, but I'm thinking I pretty much have to now that I'm going to have brand new turbos. Plan is to pick a tune and get it going once the carbon buildup is cleaned. With clean intakes, new turbos, and the other replaced parts, I'm as close to a clean slate now as the engine will ever be.

[Miko226]

Yes.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Well the oil pan gasket is going to go soon that's close to a $1000. The oil filter housing gasket is also going to go soon. You also have other misc things that will fail in the near future including low pressure fuel sensor, coilpacks and possibly injectors and that's just naming a few. There is also the rear main seal and possibly transmission and rear end failures. (Depends what your extended warranty covers). There is also misc accessories like air conditioning, power steering and alternator. It depends on how long you plan on keeping the car though.

I'd personally not keep the car out of warranty but that's cause I know how quickly one job can add up.

I just utilized my extended warranty on my corvette and a simple trans leak was a $2000+ fix. Needless to say that extended warranty company is losing money LOL

Luckily you can find most parts on ebay if you do the work yourself

[007_e350]

I always get extended warranty for german cars, japanese can hold without them

[924er]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Well the oil pan gasket is going to go soon that's close to a $1000. The oil filter housing gasket is also going to go soon. You also have other misc things that will fail in the near future including low pressure fuel sensor, coilpacks and possibly injectors and that's just naming a few. There is also the rear main seal and possibly transmission and rear end failures. (Depends what your extended warranty covers). There is also misc accessories like air conditioning, power steering and alternator. It depends on how long you plan on keeping the car though.


Luckily you can find most parts on ebay if you do the work yourself

1000 bucks for an oil pan gasket job ??? is that dealer price? lol

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by 924er

1000 bucks for an oil pan gasket job ??? is that dealer price? lol

Close to $1000, yes dealer price.

[techwhiz]

FWIW -. My CPO ran out last month and I bought a 3 year 36K warranty for mine.
Covers all the major stuff.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by techwhiz

FWIW -. My CPO ran out last month and I bought a 3 year 36K warranty for mine.
Covers all the major stuff.

Who was it through?

[924er]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Close to $1000, yes dealer price.

oh ok thats pretty accurate lol

[dwells]

Originally Posted by techwhiz

FWIW -. My CPO ran out last month and I bought a 3 year 36K warranty for mine.
Covers all the major stuff.

I'm also looking at a 3 year/36k, from Rt. 66. Who are you looking at an dhow much?

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Well the oil pan gasket is going to go soon that's close to a $1000. The oil filter housing gasket is also going to go soon. You also have other misc things that will fail in the near future including low pressure fuel sensor, coilpacks and possibly injectors and that's just naming a few. There is also the rear main seal and possibly transmission and rear end failures. (Depends what your extended warranty covers). There is also misc accessories like air conditioning, power steering and alternator. It depends on how long you plan on keeping the car though.

I'd personally not keep the car out of warranty but that's cause I know how quickly one job can add up.

I just utilized my extended warranty on my corvette and a simple trans leak was a $2000+ fix. Needless to say that extended warranty company is losing money LOL

Luckily you can find most parts on ebay if you do the work yourself

I don't really have any DIY experience so I'm limited to simpler things like injectors. I do have a good indie shop that's cheaper than the dealer as well.

I'll research those issues you mentioned. I'm planning on keeping the car for another two or three years, it'll like be at around 100,000 miles or so when I get rid of it.

[westchester335i]

So how does Route 66 warranty work? Lets say you have issue X at X miles do you just take it into the dealership and they RT 66 covers it or what?

I have CPO for 2 more years, BMW told me I could extend the CPO for another year for $1700 but the 3/36k for 2k from RT 66 sure sound better.

[Miller335]

I heard through E90post that if your E9x is a 2007 everything will break and kill your dog, it being the first year and all.

OP, looks like your 2007 has had the same issues all 335's have so I would say your ride has be fairly predicable but extra coverage in case of a major failure is always a nice thing to have.

[dwells]

Originally Posted by westchester335i

So how does Route 66 warranty work? Lets say you have issue X at X miles do you just take it into the dealership and they RT 66 covers it or what?

I have CPO for 2 more years, BMW told me I could extend the CPO for another year for $1700 but the 3/36k for 2k from RT 66 sure sound better.

They cover everything the OEM warranty covers with the exceptions of iDrive, fluids, diagnostic time, and interior parts. They pay full dealer parts and labor rates and no deductible. So yeah, you can just take the car in to the dealer when something goes wrong and then the dealer bills them.

[chiaobaby]

If you don't like getting your hands dirty extended warranty is worth it. Its only worth it if you resell. BMW maintenance standard sucks who waits 12k for an oil change ? I change my oil at 6k and I change my oil filter every 3k . If you wait every 12k for oil change this can not be good for your engine its like changing a diaper once a week. The buildup of trapped particles slows down the flow and eventually from the resistance your engine oil just get bypassed flows thru without being filtered.

[dwells]

Bump - looking for more feedback from people with 100,000 or more miles. I'm looking to keep the car up until then, so I'd love to hear what people at that point have had to replace. Just trying to figure out if I should expect $2,000+ of repairs over the next three years (enough to justify the warranty).

[Big_CG]

So is the rear main seal really that common? Ive only read two posts in the last year of researching n54 issues. I think OP has the common ones covered. Aside from the common failure points it seems like these drivetrains are pretty stout

[ken1137]

Dont forget serpentine belt, pulley, engine mounts, and potential engine damage since you have an '07. Plus, everything Jeff noted.