Can Dinan Camber plates reach -3 degrees in the front on this build?

[BMW135pls]

I am in the final stages of working out my suspension build and trying to get the best I can with what I am spending. Normally I only buy top end stuff, (that's just the way I am. Buy once, buy right type of thing) but the way I see it is if the Dinan fixed camber plates can reach -3 in the front, then I guess it's technically as good as a top end plate that costs 3x more. I already have the M rear subframe bushings installed, and am running 225F/255R Michelin PSS tires at 36F/39R, thanks to advice I've gained from reading the forum. Thanks so much already for the support I've been given, it's been spot on.

Build:
-M3 Front/Rear Control Arms (might remove the strut tower pin, might not if I don't need to)
-Koni Yellow Shocks
-Swift Spec-R Springs
-Vorshlag camber plates, or Dinan if they will be able to reach -3 in the front comfortably to save some money.

Feel free to add ideas or make suggestions on things that will go with this build or things that I've missed as I am still a noob and this car is my learning platform. I have two camber specs in mind, both of which I got from the forum. I will either go with -2.5F/-2.0R or -3.0F/-2.4R. I will likely try both, I may even try the less extreme one first, but I'd like the build to be capable of both without additional part swapping to be future-proof in case I decide the more extreme alignment is right for my car. The Dinan being a "fixed" plate, will it be able to achieve both alignments?

Additional bonus question - the toe and caster settings. I'm pretty confident about the toe settings being +.10F/+.15R. Will I regret it if I tell the shop to dial as much positive caster as possible? I know it makes steering input harder as a downside, but will the upsides outweigh this for a daily driver?

Thanks so much.

[Ginger_Extract]

Unless you feel comfortable slotting your strut towers (not recommended for a street car), the Dinan units won't hit -3. If you want to buy right, buy once, buy Vorshlag.

[Pyrat 2]

I'm running Dinan plates without M3 control arms. I'm at -1.5 with this configuration. I under stand that the M3 arms are good for about 1.5 degrees. I don't know if the combination will get you to 3. 2.5 shouldn't be an issue though

[Solo_M_Tech]

-3.0 is hard to get without slotting your strut towers. I have the KW clubsport camber plates, with the M3 control arm kit, and Im at -3.0. But I had to leave the two inner torx bolts alittle loose, because once you get the camber set, you can't get to those two bolts. It hasn't been an issue yet, and I've done alot of track and hard street driving, pot holes and speed bumps and they haven't moved.

[DietTab]

I got 2.7 without and 3.2 with slotting. Takes 5 minutes per side,super easy

[slonik]

But I had to leave the two inner torx bolts alittle loose, because once you get the camber set, you can't get to those two bolts.

i've tied all this bolts in max setting when strut was removed from the car)

[BMW135pls]

Originally Posted by ApexResistance

-3.0 is hard to get without slotting your strut towers. I have the KW clubsport camber plates, with the M3 control arm kit, and Im at -3.0. But I had to leave the two inner torx bolts alittle loose, because once you get the camber set, you can't get to those two bolts. It hasn't been an issue yet, and I've done alot of track and hard street driving, pot holes and speed bumps and they haven't moved.

Very interesting. So even with a top camber plate like the Vorshlag and modified lowering shocks/springs, I still won't be able to reach -3 in a natural way, without "slotting" or whatever that entails. It sounds like slotting can be a potentially dangerous thing if not done correctly, so if I can't reach -3 naturally, I think I'll be satisfied with -2.5 up front.

Does anyone have any input on caster angle? Maybe a recommended setting, or whether or not I should do something silly like maxing it positive.

[Solo_M_Tech]

With vorschlag camber plates there is no need to notch the strut towers. You could easily get -3 with them and ///M control arms. As far as caster goes, the general consensus is max it out.

[Bimmer-Bob]

Originally Posted by HeelToe

I'm running Dinan plates without M3 control arms. I'm at -1.5 with this configuration. I under stand that the M3 arms are good for about 1.5 degrees. I don't know if the combination will get you to 3. 2.5 shouldn't be an issue though

M3 control arms net more like -0.75 degrees. I don't think you will get to -3 with Dinan plates. I used to have them and never could, anyway.

[_Ryan_]

Originally Posted by ApexResistance

With vorschlag camber plates there is no need to notch the strut towers. You could easily get -3 with them and ///M control arms. As far as caster goes, the general consensus is max it out.

Really? I barely get -2.4

[Solo_M_Tech]

Originally Posted by _Ryan_

Really? I barely get -2.4

It shouldn't be hard. I could be wrong. I had -2.5 with vorschlag plates and stock control arms.

[_Ryan_]

Originally Posted by ApexResistance

It shouldn't be hard. I could be wrong. I had -2.5 with vorschlag plates and stock control arms.

Mods in my garage- I'm running on the low side, M3 arms, v.lag plates and only get that.

HPA did say it's weird.

[135TX]

i have m3 front arms, swift spec r, bilstien b8, and dinan camber plates and I'm maxed out up front at -2.2 with my camber pins pulled.

[135TX]

I bought some vorshlag camber plates from ApexResistance, so that will be my next option to get 2.5 or more

[chris82]

I use Ground Control race plates, im at - 2.3 and they don't even look close to maxed out. I don't have the M3 control arms either.

[Solo_M_Tech]

Originally Posted by 135TX

I bought some vorshlag camber plates from ApexResistance, so that will be my next option to get 2.5 or more

Enjoy them! Should be very easy to get -3.0 with them and the M3 control arms.

[Nugget]

I max out around -2.5 with M3 control arms and Dinan Camber plates.

[dtla1]

Bilstein B8 with Eibach pro-kit springs, Dinan Fixed camber plates and M3 front arms, alignment pin cut off, I maxed out at -3.0* on both sides according to my alignment shop. Ultimately dialed it down to -2.4* 0 toe front, and -2.2* 3/32 toe rear. Sounds like my car is the outlier. I have heard people have different results with camber plates etc as is demonstrated ^^^ so your results may vary.

[dbronnik]

AFAIK your ride height will change your max camber specs, this is probably why so many people have "varying" results. I was able to dial in -3.x deg camber when my front was slammed, but ended up with -2.3 deg max after I had the car properly corner balanced.

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by dbronnik

AFAIK your ride height will change your max camber specs, this is probably why so many people have "varying" results. I was able to dial in -3.x deg camber when my front was slammed, but ended up with -2.3 deg max after I had the car properly corner balanced.

You are right, my front wheels tuck a bit with my eibach springs. I added the fixed camber plates to raise the height a bit and to get some more camber dialed in.

[Ski Killset]

I have M3 arms, COBB springs (-1.2"), Dinan camber plates

I'm running -2.7 front camber

[BMW135pls]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Bilstein B8 with Eibach pro-kit springs, Dinan Fixed camber plates and M3 front arms, alignment pin cut off, I maxed out at -3.0* on both sides according to my alignment shop. Ultimately dialed it down to -2.4* 0 toe front, and -2.2* 3/32 toe rear. Sounds like my car is the outlier. I have heard people have different results with camber plates etc as is demonstrated ^^^ so your results may vary.

Thanks for sharing. Did you pull the front camber back in because you didn't like how it felt at -3?