Suggestions for brake rotors and an alignment question.

[feeshta]

Hello all. I need to replace the front rotors on my car pretty soon, and I thought I would ask for suggestions on replacements. The car came certified pre-owned in late March with whooped rotors. They are heavily scored, and they began to pulsate under braking less than 3K miles after purchase. I also suspect they may be the cause of a 70 mph vibration I am getting, as the vibration perfectly matches the pace of the brake vibration when I hit the brakes while it is occurring. It simply gets stronger in intensity when I hit the brakes, and maintains cadence without skipping a beat. I'm pissed at the dealership, as they refuse to replace them, stating they met spec, but I don't think there is anything to be done on that front. Note to self, don't pick up a new car in the rain again, even if you already saw it before and the dealership promised you that everything would be taken care of from a maintenance standpoint before it went out the door.

Anyway, I'm not a guy who tracks my car, and I'm generally pretty easy on brakes as I am more of a speed conservation style of driver. What would you fine fellows suggest as replacement options? I'm a little leary of the factory rotors, given how quickly these went bad. The car only has 47K miles and the rotors have been whooped since less than 42K, and I easily got over 95K out of the factory rotors on a previous car (VW GTI 337) which I routinely drove hard. So, suggestions?

My other question concerns my alignment. I recently installed the Ohlins R&T kit on my car. When I did so, I preset everything to the manufacturers recommendations on spring preload, etc. I was very happy with the ride quality when I first installed them, but obviously the car needed an alignment. I decided to go all out and spring for a race-prep style corner-balanced alignment as I had never had it done before and was curious about it. When I got the car back, it very obviously rode rougher. Unpleasantly so. I had to turn the shocks back three clicks to come close to the previous ride quality, and there is still a rather nasty edge to the ride that was not there before. I'm thinking about taking the car back and having them undo what they did, just rest everything to Ohlins preload specs. The car does not handle noticeably better than before the alignment, as we got surprisingly close just eyeballing it during the install. What do yous guys think?

[mechavore884]

wellllllllll regarding the rotors I've had some pretty good luck with the ECS ones (3 autoX events and its been a couple years) along with teh AXXIs/PBR ultimate pads...albeit I normally live and die by hawk or fedora blah blah blah... But also brembo blanks are pretty HOT
...just my .02

[feeshta]

Originally Posted by mechavore884

wellllllllll regarding the rotors I've had some pretty good luck with the ECS ones (3 autoX events and its been a couple years) along with teh AXXIs/PBR ultimate pads...albeit I normally live and die by hawk or fedora blah blah blah... But also brembo blanks are pretty HOT
...just my .02

Yes, the ECS rotors look pretty nice. Not really sure I should pay quite so high a price for my needs though, as I'm not sure the 4 pound weight advantage over stock would even be noticeable from behind the wheel, and that is realistically the only empirical advantage they are likely to have over other brands.

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by feeshta

Hello all. I need to replace the front rotors on my car pretty soon, and I thought I would ask for suggestions on replacements. The car came certified pre-owned in late March with whooped rotors. They are heavily scored, and they began to pulsate under braking less than 3K miles after purchase. I also suspect they may be the cause of a 70 mph vibration I am getting, as the vibration perfectly matches the pace of the brake vibration when I hit the brakes while it is occurring. It simply gets stronger in intensity when I hit the brakes, and maintains cadence without skipping a beat. I'm pissed at the dealership, as they refuse to replace them, stating they met spec, but I don't think there is anything to be done on that front. Note to self, don't pick up a new car in the rain again, even if you already saw it before and the dealership promised you that everything would be taken care of from a maintenance standpoint before it went out the door.

Anyway, I'm not a guy who tracks my car, and I'm generally pretty easy on brakes as I am more of a speed conservation style of driver. What would you fine fellows suggest as replacement options? I'm a little leary of the factory rotors, given how quickly these went bad. The car only has 47K miles and the rotors have been whooped since less than 42K, and I easily got over 95K out of the factory rotors on a previous car (VW GTI 337) which I routinely drove hard. So, suggestions?

My other question concerns my alignment. I recently installed the Ohlins R&T kit on my car. When I did so, I preset everything to the manufacturers recommendations on spring preload, etc. I was very happy with the ride quality when I first installed them, but obviously the car needed an alignment. I decided to go all out and spring for a race-prep style corner-balanced alignment as I had never had it done before and was curious about it. When I got the car back, it very obviously rode rougher. Unpleasantly so. I had to turn the shocks back three clicks to come close to the previous ride quality, and there is still a rather nasty edge to the ride that was not there before. I'm thinking about taking the car back and having them undo what they did, just rest everything to Ohlins preload specs. The car does not handle noticeably better than before the alignment, as we got surprisingly close just eyeballing it during the install. What do yous guys think?

Honestly, if you're not tracking the car you will do just fine with most good quality brands. You could look at Brembo or Zimmerman OEM type replacements, I've personally had good luck with the Centric Premium e-coated rotors (they pre-paint and treat the rotor hats so they don't rust, rotor surface is properly pre-ground to help pad bedding etc). They come as "blanks" or slotted or drilled, that part is up to you. Centric owns Stoptech, so they are a well known brand and pricing is pretty good overall. Just stay away from the cheap ones, the metal quality is sub par. 2-piece rotors are great if you plan to track, but not worth it for the street unless you want to pay for the looks.

Saving unsprung weight is always good (4lbs is significant) and it helps with ride quality also, but again comes down to price. Your ride issues are more to do with the setup of your coilovers, Ohlins are a great product but it takes someone who knows what they are doing to set them up properly.

[uberschnell]

Originally Posted by feeshta

Yes, the ECS rotors look pretty nice. Not really sure I should pay quite so high a price for my needs though, as I'm not sure the 4 pound weight advantage over stock would even be noticeable from behind the wheel, and that is realistically the only empirical advantage they are likely to have over other brands.

Not all rotors are alike. There is quality of the metal, design (cooling, warp prevention) and fitment that need to be considered. I 2nd the recommendation of ECS rotors. Well built and probably one of the best price to quality ratios you will find.

Being cheap on brakes generally does not yield good results.

[NorthernDancer]

Bav Auto in New Hampshire have rotors on sale with free shipping.

[E82MSport]

Originally Posted by asbrr

Honestly, if you're not tracking the car you will do just fine with most good quality brands. You could look at Brembo or Zimmerman OEM type replacements, I've personally had good luck with the Centric Premium e-coated rotors (they pre-paint and treat the rotor hats so they don't rust, rotor surface is properly pre-ground to help pad bedding etc). They come as "blanks" or slotted or drilled, that part is up to you. Centric owns Stoptech, so they are a well known brand and pricing is pretty good overall. Just stay away from the cheap ones, the metal quality is sub par. 2-piece rotors are great if you plan to track, but not worth it for the street unless you want to pay for the looks.

Saving unsprung weight is always good (4lbs is significant) and it helps with ride quality also, but again comes down to price. Your ride issues are more to do with the setup of your coilovers, Ohlins are a great product but it takes someone who knows what they are doing to set them up properly.

I agree with the recommendations of a good quality replacement like Centric or Zimmerman without drilled/slotted/dimpled. I would also replace the pads at the same time.

In regards to the Ohlins install (pre and post alignment), I'm not surprised you're not seeing a dramatic improvement in the handling with normal driving. If you installed the front dampers using the OEM top mounts and the alignment pin was still in place you probably didn't alter the alignment. And seeing as you set the lower spring perch to Ohlins recommendations it puts you within a ~10mm +/- 5mm of the factory ride height depending on your model, which usually doesn't effect alignment too much. The rear install and setup should yield the same as the front.

In terms of a 'race-prep style' alignment, the improvement you will see is on track or very aggressive street driving. I'm not surprised you've noticed an increase in stiffness and NVH because they probably set the front and rear dampers within a few clicks of full stiff. I suggest setting the front dampers to full firm (clockwise) and back off the stiffness (counter clockwise) within 10-15 clicks for best ride. On the rear I would do the same but only 8-10 clicks.

When you had the alignment done did they provide you with the alignment specs before and after? I would be curious to see how it's aligned and where they set ride height in comparison to what you previously had. If I was you, I would be concerned what they set front and rear toe at, as this will primarily effect tire wear seeing as you don't track this car. I assume you told them what you mainly use the car for right? If you told them it's for everyday driving with some weekend back-road carving, they should have gone fairly conservative with toe settings.

What tires are you running and have you checked pressures?

[feeshta]

Originally Posted by E82MSport

I agree with the recommendations of a good quality replacement like Centric or Zimmerman without drilled/slotted/dimpled. I would also replace the pads at the same time.

In regards to the Ohlins install (pre and post alignment), I'm not surprised you're not seeing a dramatic improvement in the handling with normal driving. If you installed the front dampers using the OEM top mounts and the alignment pin was still in place you probably didn't alter the alignment. And seeing as you set the lower spring perch to Ohlins recommendations it puts you within a ~10mm +/- 5mm of the factory ride height depending on your model, which usually doesn't effect alignment too much. The rear install and setup should yield the same as the front.

In terms of a 'race-prep style' alignment, the improvement you will see is on track or very aggressive street driving. I'm not surprised you've noticed an increase in stiffness and NVH because they probably set the front and rear dampers within a few clicks of full stiff. I suggest setting the front dampers to full firm (clockwise) and back off the stiffness (counter clockwise) within 10-15 clicks for best ride. On the rear I would do the same but only 8-10 clicks.

When you had the alignment done did they provide you with the alignment specs before and after? I would be curious to see how it's aligned and where they set ride height in comparison to what you previously had. If I was you, I would be concerned what they set front and rear toe at, as this will primarily effect tire wear seeing as you don't track this car. I assume you told them what you mainly use the car for right? If you told them it's for everyday driving with some weekend back-road carving, they should have gone fairly conservative with toe settings.

What tires are you running and have you checked pressures?

Unfortunately, they did not provide alignment specs, which surprised me. When I asked for the printout, they apologized and said they had forgotten to hit print before they took the car off the rack. I'm curious about the toe angles myself.

I did make it clear that I don't track the car, and that my primary concern was improving handling during spirited back road driving, including noting that those roads are often quite bumpy. I also made it clear that I was looking a avoid tire wear as much as possible, so hopefully they did not go too aggressive.

I do know that they did not touch the adjustments on the shocks. That was my initial thought about why they felt so much stiffer, but a check confirmed they were exactly where I had set them at 10 clicks off full stiff front and rear. They attributed the change to increased front spring preload which they added to try to balance the car, and I currently have it set at 13 clicks front, 10 rear. I originally set both front and rear to 13 after the change, but then I got a little bit of a chatter from the back end over washboard pavement, so I cranked it back up. Overall, the suspension feels better than when I got it back from the alignment, but still not as good as before the alignment was done.

As far as the Ohlins being close in ride height and not affecting the alignment much on install, that might hold water if you did not have to completely loosen all of the alignment hardware on the rear suspension. I didn't bother marking anything, as I was planning to take it for alignment the next day. That got delayed by about a week due to finding a problem with the front right shock mount and needing to order a replacement. The car also had Dinan camber plates installed at the same time, so the front end changed pretty significantly, but it did not seem to affect handling much. By contrast, when I installed the M3 control arms, the car was a complete mess from a handling perspective. I think we just got lucky this time. Who knows, it may have been tracking straight but would have eaten the tires in 1000 miles.

Edit: Oh, and the car is currently on the factory equipment RE050 Runflats. They are going to be replaced with winter tires in the fall, then a new set of wheels with Pilot Super Sports for summer use will go on in the spring, most likely Identical to the set you are running. The pressures are all right around 35 PSI. I checked that too, after getting my car back from an oil change once years ago with 47 PSI all around and nearly losing my fillings.

[dtla1]

Try going to one of those "free alignment check" places to get a print-out. I'm also curious to what your alignment is set at. 0 toe up front is typically what we would want as well as minimal toe in the rear. From there, somewhere between -2* to -2.5* camber in the front with the mods you have and slightly less in the rear. For comparison, I have 0 toe front, -2.4* camber front, 3/32 toe rear, -2.2* camber rear. Not on coilovers but eibach springs, dinan camber plates and M3 front control arms.

[feeshta]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Try going to one of those "free alignment check" places to get a print-out. I'm also curious to what your alignment is set at. 0 toe up front is typically what we would want as well as minimal toe in the rear. From there, somewhere between -2* to -2.5* camber in the front with the mods you have and slightly less in the rear. For comparison, I have 0 toe front, -2.4* camber front, 3/32 toe rear, -2.2* camber rear. Not on coilovers but eibach springs, dinan camber plates and M3 front control arms.

I do know the camber settings, they wrote that down on the receipt, just not the toe settings for some reason. Camber is -2.2° front, -2.0° rear.

[E82MSport]

Originally Posted by feeshta

Unfortunately, they did not provide alignment specs, which surprised me. When I asked for the printout, they apologized and said they had forgotten to hit print before they took the car off the rack. I'm curious about the toe angles myself.

I did make it clear that I don't track the car, and that my primary concern was improving handling during spirited back road driving, including noting that those roads are often quite bumpy. I also made it clear that I was looking a avoid tire wear as much as possible, so hopefully they did not go too aggressive.

I do know that they did not touch the adjustments on the shocks. That was my initial thought about why they felt so much stiffer, but a check confirmed they were exactly where I had set them at 10 clicks off full stiff front and rear. They attributed the change to increased front spring preload which they added to try to balance the car, and I currently have it set at 13 clicks front, 10 rear. I originally set both front and rear to 13 after the change, but then I got a little bit of a chatter from the back end over washboard pavement, so I cranked it back up. Overall, the suspension feels better than when I got it back from the alignment, but still not as good as before the alignment was done.

As far as the Ohlins being close in ride height and not affecting the alignment much on install, that might hold water if you did not have to completely loosen all of the alignment hardware on the rear suspension. I didn't bother marking anything, as I was planning to take it for alignment the next day. That got delayed by about a week due to finding a problem with the front right shock mount and needing to order a replacement. The car also had Dinan camber plates installed at the same time, so the front end changed pretty significantly, but it did not seem to affect handling much. By contrast, when I installed the M3 control arms, the car was a complete mess from a handling perspective. I think we just got lucky this time. Who knows, it may have been tracking straight but would have eaten the tires in 1000 miles.

Edit: Oh, and the car is currently on the factory equipment RE050 Runflats. They are going to be replaced with winter tires in the fall, then a new set of wheels with Pilot Super Sports for summer use will go on in the spring, most likely Identical to the set you are running. The pressures are all right around 35 PSI. I checked that too, after getting my car back from an oil change once years ago with 47 PSI all around and nearly losing my fillings.

You're absolutely right about the rear suspension and I failed to mention the effect on rear camber and toe when you loosen the lower control arm inner eccentric bolt. Valid info and good to point out.

I cheated mine slightly by marking and barely loosening that eccentric bolt in order to install the spring and damper. I must of did it fairly right because when I aligned the car it was equal toe side to side and camber was only .2 different overall.

That's a bummer they weren't able to provide you with the specs seeing as it was a very specific type of alignment that included corner balancing. I assume they set ride height and corner balanced before they did the alignment right? Ride height can change toe more so than camber.

I'm a little skeptical of the increase in preload effecting ride that much. I could see this if these coilovers had preload and height as separate adjustments but they are not. Ride height and preload are essentially one in the same for these. I'm not a suspension expert but if they had to add quite a bit of preload to balance out the car it might be visually noticeable in terms of ride height. I could be wrong on this, as I didn't corner balance my car during my last alignment. I did on the other hand have excessive front preload in order to get my ride height where it needed to be and it didn't seem to effect ride quality. On the other hand it would make sense by increasing preload you are essentially increasing spring rate at that given spring length due to the springs being linear in rate.

As you probably experienced, M3 arms really mess up toe when switching from stock due to the wishbone being longer. Unless you adjust the tie-rods when you do the swap you end up with excessive negative toe. As you probably know, the M3 advantage being additional negative camber by pushing the bottom of the tire out by ~.75 degrees and provides better turn-in along with the differences in the inner bushing/bearings from stock.

Other than a stiffer ride can you pin-point what you might be experiencing in terms of the car feeling better before the alignment? Does the car tramline on the road or are you feeling sluggish turn-in?

As dtla1 mentioned, it might be worth getting a quick alignment check to see where you stand. For reference, I'm running -2.5 front camber with 2mm total toe and -1.5 rear camber with 3mm total toe. My was done old school with sticks and strings .

[feeshta]

Originally Posted by E82MSport

You're absolutely right about the rear suspension and I failed to mention the effect on rear camber and toe when you loosen the lower control arm inner eccentric bolt. Valid info and good to point out.

I cheated mine slightly by marking and barely loosening that eccentric bolt in order to install the spring and damper. I must of did it fairly right because when I aligned the car it was equal toe side to side and camber was only .2 different overall.

That's a bummer they weren't able to provide you with the specs seeing as it was a very specific type of alignment that included corner balancing. I assume they set ride height and corner balanced before they did the alignment right? Ride height can change toe more so than camber.

I'm a little skeptical of the increase in preload effecting ride that much. I could see this if these coilovers had preload and height as separate adjustments but they are not. Ride height and preload are essentially one in the same for these. I'm not a suspension expert but if they had to add quite a bit of preload to balance out the car it might be visually noticeable in terms of ride height. I could be wrong on this, as I didn't corner balance my car during my last alignment. I did on the other hand have excessive front preload in order to get my ride height where it needed to be and it didn't seem to effect ride quality. On the other hand it would make sense by increasing preload you are essentially increasing spring rate at that given spring length due to the springs being linear in rate.

As you probably experienced, M3 arms really mess up toe when switching from stock due to the wishbone being longer. Unless you adjust the tie-rods when you do the swap you end up with excessive negative toe. As you probably know, the M3 advantage being additional negative camber by pushing the bottom of the tire out by ~.75 degrees and provides better turn-in along with the differences in the inner bushing/bearings from stock.

Other than a stiffer ride can you pin-point what you might be experiencing in terms of the car feeling better before the alignment? Does the car tramline on the road or are you feeling sluggish turn-in?

As dtla1 mentioned, it might be worth getting a quick alignment check to see where you stand. For reference, I'm running -2.5 front camber with 2mm total toe and -1.5 rear camber with 3mm total toe. My was done old school with sticks and strings .

Really the only difference from before to after is an increase in harshness when you encounter sharp edged bumps. I mean things like bridge transitions that are not perfectly aligned, sunken manhole covers, things like that. When the Ohlins were first installed, there was a huge improvement over stock in the way the car soaked up bumps like this. Post alignment, it's almost as bad as it was before, but not quite.

One thing I forgot to mention is that I went with a shortened spring from Swift Racing on the fronts. It has the same rate and usable stroke as the stock one, but is an inch shorter in order to help with wheel and tire clearance issues someone here on the forums had warned me about. Ride height stays the same because you simply bring the perches up to compensate. I want to go with the Apex ARc-08s and 245s up front in the future, so any little bit of clearance I could gain seemed well worth it to me.

The only truly odd thing about the install when I did it was the one side rode about .5" higher than the other in the rear, despite both spring perches being set identically. The alignment corrected this though.

[E82MSport]

Originally Posted by feeshta

Really the only difference from before to after is an increase in harshness when you encounter sharp edged bumps. I mean things like bridge transitions that are not perfectly aligned, sunken manhole covers, things like that. When the Ohlins were first installed, there was a huge improvement over stock in the way the car soaked up bumps like this. Post alignment, it's almost as bad as it was before, but not quite.

One thing I forgot to mention is that I went with a shortened spring from Swift Racing on the fronts. It has the same rate and usable stroke as the stock one, but is an inch shorter in order to help with wheel and tire clearance issues someone here on the forums had warned me about. Ride height stays the same because you simply bring the perches up to compensate. I want to go with the Apex ARc-08s and 245s up front in the future, so any little bit of clearance I could gain seemed well worth it to me.

The only truly odd thing about the install when I did it was the one side rode about .5" higher than the other in the rear, despite both spring perches being set identically. The alignment corrected this though.

Ok, this makes a little more sense now. I thought you were still running the Ohlins springs. Did you have the Swift springs installed pre-alignment? The difference in ride height could have been due to the Dinan plate stack-up height.

I did have an increase in harshness when I switched to Swift springs but I attributed it to the cambers plates I installed (Ground Control Street).

[E82MSport]

You could possibly use a spacer to keep your height and reduce front spring preload.

Images from fe1rx http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...=956039&page=5

[feeshta]

Originally Posted by E82MSport

Ok, this makes a little more sense now. I thought you were still running the Ohlins springs. Did you have the Swift springs installed pre-alignment? The difference in ride height could have been due to the Dinan plate stack-up height.

I did have an increase in harshness when I switched to Swift springs but I attributed it to the cambers plates I installed (Ground Control Street).

The car never had the factory front Ohlins on it, I purchased the Swift springs and installed them when the Ohlins first went on the car. The only change on the day of the allignment was the settings, no equipment was changed in any way.

The order was something like this, so that things are clear.

Installed M3 control arms front and rear, and M3 Rear Subframe bushings.
Next afternoon had the car aligned. Loved the handling improvement, and there was some improvement in ride quality, but it was still harsh on the factory shocks and springs.

Installed Ohlins kit with swift springs and Dinan camber plates. Found that one of the front shock mounts was damaged during the install, so I had to order a new pair. During the week when the car was running pre-alignment, I was in heaven on both ride and handling. I was looking forward to having the car aligned, thinking it would be yet a further improvement.

Replacement parts come in and are installed. Car drove exactly the same as before new shock mounts after this install.

2 days later, car is aligned. I notice the difference in ride quality within the first hundred yards of leaving the shop. I thought they must have changed shock settings or tire pressures, but checking them after arrival home revealed nothing had changed. I called them and they said it must be due to the change in front preload, but they said they would not have expected a major difference.

From there I have tried monkeying with shock settings. It helps a little, but the car still does not ride as well as before the alignment was performed.

[feeshta]

Originally Posted by E82MSport

You could possibly use a spacer to keep your height and reduce front spring preload.

Images from fe1rx http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...=956039&page=5

Wouldn't this basically defeat the purpose of going with the swift springs in the first place? I.E. it would take back the clearance that the swifts gained.

Edit: Also I'm not all that worried about ride heights. I'm not one of those guys who wants the car stanced or anything, I just want the best handling I can get without having issues with speed bumps and fender rub. Factory ride height was actually fine in my eyes.

[E82MSport]

Originally Posted by feeshta

Wouldn't this basically defeat the purpose of going with the swift springs in the first place? I.E. it would take back the clearance that the swifts gained.

Before I address the question above, maybe it would be worth going back to the original preload settings. Maybe this is your problem, it would be really interesting to know that info.

Concerning the spacer, it actually does the opposite of what you are saying. By adding the spacer to the bottom of the damper it raises the entire assembly by the added thickness of the spacer. In fe1rx's case that spacer is 10mm. By raising the entire assembly it also raises the ride height by 10mm and also gains you additional clearance (10mm) between the lower adjustment collar/spring perch and the tire. By doing this you now would lower the vehicle back down to the desired ride height, thus reducing spring preload as well as gaining spring travel due to the spring being longer.

[feeshta]

Originally Posted by E82MSport

Before I address the question above, maybe it would be worth going back to the original preload settings. Maybe this is your problem, it would be really interesting to know that info.

Concerning the spacer, it actually does the opposite of what you are saying. By adding the spacer to the bottom of the damper it raises the entire assembly by the added thickness of the spacer. In fe1rx's case that spacer is 10mm. By raising the entire assembly it also raises the ride height by 10mm and also gains you additional clearance (10mm) between the lower adjustment collar/spring perch and the tire. By doing this you now would lower the vehicle back down to the desired ride height, thus reducing spring preload as well as gaining spring travel due to the spring being longer.

Ahh, I see. I was looking at that the wrong way. Thanks for the clarification.

On the preload, I am strongly considering just resetting it to Ohlins recommendations and getting the car realigned to compensate. I don't think the corner balancing really helped handling. I really can't feel a difference in that respect, certainly not enough to justify the trade-off in ride quality.

I was really curious to hear if that is what others would do, or if they had some other solution in mind that I hadn't considered. The spacers are an interesting option, but I'm not sure I need to go there to achieve the result I want, since I basically already had it before the alignment.

[E82MSport]

I highly doubt you will need to realign in order to readjust the preload. They will most likely loosen the collars and set them equally. It would probably take them about 10 minutes a side and then you could take it out and test it. I would however have them measure the threads before so that in case it doesn't solve the issue you can have them put it back to where it was when it was corner balanced.

Let us know how it turns out.

[feeshta]

Originally Posted by E82MSport

I highly doubt you will need to realign in order to readjust the preload. They will most likely loosen the collars and set them equally. It would probably take them about 10 minutes a side and then you could take it out and test it. I would however have them measure the threads before so that in case it doesn't solve the issue you can have them put it back to where it was when it was corner balanced.

Let us know how it turns out.

I think I will talk to the shop that did the work and see if they can cut me a deal on returning it to the factory setting up front at least. They pretty much talked me into doing the corner balancing, and I'm not happy with the results. I could do the work and get it aligned at the Auto Craft Center on base for about $65, but I'd rather make them do it if they can come close on price.

I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

Also, there is a lot of good info in that thread you linked. Thanks for posting that.

[dtla1]

If you were in So-Cal I would tell you to call West End Alignment, but they might want you to come in to see what the issue is. Might still be worth it to call them and pick their brain. These guys are super knowledgeable and know how to do everything alignment related very well.

[feeshta]

Originally Posted by dtla1

If you were in So-Cal I would tell you to call West End Alignment, but they might want you to come in to see what the issue is. Might still be worth it to call them and pick their brain. These guys are super knowledgeable and know how to do everything alignment related very well.

those guys must really be good, considering I have actually heard of them all the way out here in Maryland. Hopefully I can get this solved without needed the guru of gurus involved though.