New to BMWs and looking at E92 M3's but have some questions.

[Z06Mike]

Hey there,

It's my first time posting here after a long stint on the Corvetteforum and owning Corvettes I think it's time to move on and try something different.

I've owned many Corvettes and well I just always end up selling them due to lack of satisfaction and not driving them. I've owned numerous C5 Z06s and a couple C6 Z06s. I've determined after owning them that a car that I pay $XXX to sit in the garage isn't for me, I would like something that can be my daily driver but also take out to the occasional track day.

This weekend I went to a local dealer with intentions of test driving a 2012 CTS-V coupe with a six speed. After looking around I noticed they had a beautiful 2011 mineral white E92 M3. I looked in the interior and immediately dismissed it because it had the DCT. The salesman asked if I had ever driven one and I said no....about five minutes later I was screaming down the street running that 4.0 V8 out to 8000RPM (sounds very nice). Lol Needless to say I was VERY impressed with the DCT and the M3 as a whole. I think the car would be a great DD for myself and something I could take out to Laguna Seca or Thunderhill every once in awhile.

But I know NOTHING about BMW's. So I need some help.

Reliability and maintenance is obviously a concern but from everything I've read the E92 and the DCT are extremely reliable. Is this true? I would consider a third party warranty.

Except for the engine bearings I've read the cost is about $2-3K is there any specific mileage that this usually happens? Also is it just as simple as replacing the bearings? Or does machine work need accomplished as well? Any tell tale signs of this happening? One of the reasons why I'm leaving GM is because the massive and widespread failures of the LS7 engines in C6 Z06.

What has BMW done to fix the bearing issue? If anything. I know GM just pretty much said screw you with all the LS7 issues and won't even do a good will repair when it's a known issue.

What year should I get? I read that the 2011 received DCT upgrades as well as iDrive updates. Can I upgrade lets say a 2009 with the software if I buy one of those? What about the "M" button?

I was originally thinking of a 2011+ but those are around 40K where I can get a 2009 for about $30K.

Although I really want mineral white which is a a 2011 color. The car I test drove was a 2011 with prem. pack, tech pack, cold weather, comfort access and competition pack. (I think that's it)

Can someone school me on all the packages and options available?

The car I test drove is the exact one I would buy but I found evidence of paintwork which is a deal breaker for me especially considering the mileage and price. 49K miles asking $43K.

Any other advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

[Amirsm3]

If you do a search, you'll notice there's a plethora of answers just waiting out there for you to pluck them

Otherwise, there's really no "best" year to buy. It's all relative to your budget and what you're willing to do to "refresh" an older E9x (or pre LCI) should you choose to purchase one.

Maintenance is pretty straightforward like any other performance car (oil, diff oil, brakes etc) there's really nothing M specific you have to worry about. A small handful of cars experienced rod bearing issues (we're talking less than 1% so far of cars that have been recorded).

Again, search and you'll find all the answers you need. Good luck with your hunt!

[Helmsman]

Hi Mike, to fill in on Amirs input I'd suggest you should be particularly careful with the service history. The S65 is a performance engine and as such you want it to be looked after. If it is it's proven to be extremely reliable and last for a long time, assuming fluids are changed (better more often than BMW recommendation..) and car taken care of.

Good luck!

[InterJon]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Hi Mike, to fill in on Amirs input I'd suggest you should be particularly careful with the service history. The S65 is a performance engine and as such you want it to be looked after. If it is it's proven to be extremely reliable and last for a long time, assuming fluids are changed (better more often than BMW recommendation..) and car taken care of.

Good luck!

Ditto. If you are buying from a non-BMW dealership (not that a BMW dealership signifies any level of quality), I recommend you have a BMW dealer perform an inspection (called "PPI") and request it print a copy of the service history.

Feel free to PM with any specific questions.

[M3Bimmer77]

I have had numerous discussions about Vette guys vs bimmer guys. Those two vehicles are completely different. Vette guys normally are more into faster cars than performing, although Vettes perform very good. To tell you the truth the design, interior and exterior are much more suttle and elegant on the German cars than on American cars (to my taste). It all comes down to you. Now on the engine, suspension, transmission and brakes it all comes down to maybe a fraction of a second on the track. Are you going to track the car? Or is it a street car?
When I was shopping around for mine I started with an 09. Ended up with a 2011.75 (3rd upgrade in same year). This E90 is the last generation with the V8 na. Up to there they all were called M3 including sedan, coupe and convertible. Then comes the M3 and M4. That all the generation on twin turbos. That could be the most recent change on these cars. The other big change is if you want a pre or post LCI (meaning a new design on the front of the car and other stuff) and happened around 08 and 09 (double check). Every year there has been small changes on accessories and upgrades mainly on the electronics and I drive (nav screen info). The rod bearing issue is more of a weakness on some cars, some models and to my beleive on the driving. Even though this cars are tough and very well built, they are far from being race cars. People have complain a lot about this issue but it's more of a paranoia than any other thing. Can it happen to any car? Yes it can. I think it will happen more often to engines than are pushed more to the limit. I know a guy that has a 2011 with 86k miles, did the oil analysis and came within the limits.
Older cars could be more expensive due to more repairs. That's all on your luck.
Bottom line M3 are really nice cars, well design and the performance is really good. Best of all it can easily be a DD without any uncomfortabilities of other sport cars. Read the threads on the forum. There is no way to summarize everything you asked and give you a precise answer. I it's all on what you want and need from the car. Are you good to drive an 80k mi,e car? Do you want the last version on the drive? Are you ok with a non premium sound system? My biggest concern is that if you are really ready to let go the Corvette history. I think bimmer guys are a complete different car enthusiast culture than Corvettes guys, but the rush for a sport car is the same. I still beleive that you should get the best car that you can buy. I set a limit and of course I went over it. Todd thing is that it wasn't by much.
One last thing.....get the last 6 digits of the car vin that you saw. Go to BMWarchive and you will see the specs of that car. Also call a BMW dealer and ask if they can CPO a car from a GM dealer. Good luck on search. Beleive me, it's not easy.

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by M3Bimmer77

The other big change is if you want a pre or post LCI (meaning a new design on the front of the car and other stuff) and happened around 08 and 09 (double check). Every year there has been small changes on accessories and upgrades mainly on the electronics and I drive (nav screen info).

This is not quite accurate. LCI updates on the M3 were very minor and did not include any changes to the front end. The biggest things are the addition of the competition package option (wheels and a minor drop) and new taillights. These changes were in 2011. The iDrive update came in 2009 and provides much better graphics and a new iDrive controller. The later 2011 models got things like streaming bluetooth audio and BMW Apps so you can do stuff like check your twitter and facebook (). For me personally, I wanted the 09+ iDrive but didn't care about any of the other changes that occurred during the E92's life cycle. Bluetooth audio streaming is cool but can be added for about $70 to any model year M3.

Originally Posted by M3Bimmer77

Older cars could be more expensive due to more repairs. That's all on your luck.

How would a 2008-2010 M3 cost any more or less to maintain than a 2011-2013 M3 with the same mileage?

I think it's hard to justify spending an extra 10-15k to get the exact same car a couple model years newer when there were really no significant changes at all. If you care about the LCI updates I mentioned, they can all be completed on your own for a lot less than the cost of a newer model year. Even if you get an 08, you can retrofit the 09+ iDrive in if you want, but the price difference between 08 and 09 is insignificant so if you want the newer iDrive you might as well try to find an 09+.

Originally Posted by Z06Mike

Reliability and maintenance is obviously a concern but from everything I've read the E92 and the DCT are extremely reliable. Is this true? I would consider a third party warranty.

They are indeed known to be very reliable, however I would strongly advice you to consider adding a warranty. When things go wrong on these cars, it can get extremely expensive. My car was just in the shop for a VANOS replacement, which is practically unheard of as far as I know on E92 M3s, and the warranty ended up saving me around $9k.

Also, I know DCT vs manual is a touchy subject on this forum but I would recommend driving both before deciding which you want. You won't be disappointed with either, but I am firmly in the "6spd is more fun for a DD" camp. YMMV.

[Bushum]

Originally Posted by Z06Mike

Hey there,

One of the reasons why I'm leaving GM is because the massive and widespread failures of the LS7 engines in C6 Z06.

Didn't want to drop an exhaust valve huh? I sold my C6 Z06 for the M3 also. GM's "response" is absolutely deplorable. From what I have read the bearing issue is no where near as prevalent as the valve guide issue. I guess I have bad luck picking cars with catastrophic engine failure concerns! I did get a 3 year exclusionary warranty for my 2008 M3 for $3000 from a reputable company. If you are worried about bearings I would do that and drag it out until slightly before it expires and then change out bearings if you want. That's my plan at the moment. If you are anything like me I suggest finding one fully loaded. I hate knowing my car is missing something even if it seems trivial. Remember you are only paying a percentage for a used car and that is reflected in packages too. The prices aren't that much different between loaded and strippers. Nothing like it is in a new car. Look for tech package, premium package, cold weather, and individual audio.

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by Bushum

Didn't want to drop an exhaust valve huh? I sold my C6 Z06 for the M3 also. GM's "response" is absolutely deplorable. From what I have read the bearing issue is no where near as prevalent as the valve guide issue. I guess I have bad luck picking cars with catastrophic engine failure concerns! I did get a 3 year exclusionary warranty for my 2008 M3 for $3000 from a reputable company. If you are worried about bearings I would do that and drag it out until slightly before it expires and then change out bearings if you want. That's my plan at the moment. If you are anything like me I suggest finding one fully loaded. I hate knowing my car is missing something even if it seems trivial. Remember you are only paying a percentage for a used car and that is reflected in packages too. The prices aren't that much different between loaded and strippers. Nothing like it is in a new car. Look for tech package, premium package, cold weather, and individual audio.

I totally agree, nothing like knowing you own the best car BMW ever made with all the options they ever offered . Plus I think the interior looks ugly and flat without the iDrive bump, although a lot of people think the opposite. Also don't forget about extended leather! It's not a must-have option but it definitely makes the interior feel noticeably more premium.

[burtonsbs5114]

Originally Posted by Bushum

I did get a 3 year exclusionary warranty for my 2008 M3 for $3000 from a reputable company. .

Off topic, who is your warranty through and where did you get it?

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by burtonsbs5114

Off topic, who is your warranty through and where did you get it?

Not who you were quoting, but I paid $2k for 4yrs/50k miles of coverage with a $250 deductible through my credit union. It's also exclusionary (meaning it covers everything unless it specifically says something is not covered in the contract). The policy is through "The Warranty Group."

[M3Bimmer77]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

This is not quite accurate. LCI updates on the M3 were very minor and did not include any changes to the front end. The biggest things are the addition of the competition package option (wheels and a minor drop) and new taillights. These changes were in 2011. The iDrive update came in 2009 and provides much better graphics and a new iDrive controller. The later 2011 models got things like streaming bluetooth audio and BMW Apps so you can do stuff like check your twitter and facebook (). For me personally, I wanted the 09+ iDrive but didn't care about any of the other changes that occurred during the E92's life cycle. Bluetooth audio streaming is cool but can be added for about $70 to any model year M3.


How would a 2008-2010 M3 cost any more or less to maintain than a 2011-2013 M3 with the same mileage?

I think it's hard to justify spending an extra 10-15k to get the exact same car a couple model years newer when there were really no significant changes at all. If you care about the LCI updates I mentioned, they can all be completed on your own for a lot less than the cost of a newer model year. Even if you get an 08, you can retrofit the 09+ iDrive in if you want, but the price difference between 08 and 09 is insignificant so if you want the newer iDrive you might as well try to find an 09+.



They are indeed known to be very reliable, however I would strongly advice you to consider adding a warranty. When things go wrong on these cars, it can get extremely expensive. My car was just in the shop for a VANOS replacement, which is practically unheard of as far as I know on E92 M3s, and the warranty ended up saving me around $9k.

Also, I know DCT vs manual is a touchy subject on this forum but I would recommend driving both before deciding which you want. You won't be disappointed with either, but I am firmly in the "6spd is more fun for a DD" camp. YMMV.

First I never said that cars had same mileage. Really tough to get an 08 below 30k miles. If you find it they will charge you a lot for the low mileage. Then you will be looking at the 09 and 10s. Finally go shopping for the warranty that you suggested... A good one can be between 2-5k depending on the coverage.
Who quoted you $9k for vanos? A dealership? I have done it myself on earlier models, is ours that tough? I was there and stRted at the same point, looking at 08. Between the different options I ended up withe a 10 that basically they wanted 5k less than the 11.75 CPO. For me was a no brainier. But it's your way of thinking and making deals. Free country!!!!! Hurray!!!!!

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by M3Bimmer77

First I never said that cars had same mileage.

You said "older," not higher mileage. Older implies age/year. There are plenty of 08s with 30-50k miles, just like there are plenty of 11s and 12s with that mileage.

Originally Posted by M3Bimmer77

Finally go shopping for the warranty that you suggested... A good one can be between 2-5k depending on the coverage.

Umm, what? I did, and I bought it. Not sure what you're saying.

Originally Posted by M3Bimmer77

Who quoted you $9k for vanos? A dealership? I have done it myself on earlier models, is ours that tough? I was there and stRted at the same point, looking at 08. Between the different options I ended up withe a 10 that basically they wanted 5k less than the 11.75 CPO. For me was a no brainier. But it's your way of thinking and making deals. Free country!!!!! Hurray!!!!!

The VANOS itself was $6k including labor. Each VANOS gear is about $1k (there are 4 of them) and it's about 13 hours of labor. Then they had to pull the oil pan to clean out plastic shavings from the VANOS failure which was causing the oil level sensor to act weird. That brought the total up to somewhere between $8-9k.

[StealthnShadow]

I am in the same boat myself and trying to decide between if I-drive is worth it or not. I am looking at 09+ models but not ruling out a nicely maintained 08. I am in the camp of leaning towards thinking the inclusion of I drive is not exactly necessary especially now that it is possible to get MDM on non I drive cars. But to the OP it really depends on your budget and preferences or even how far you are willing to travel to get your "perfect" M3 in your eyes. Also beyond getting the service history make sure you when you get the PPI you find out what potentially the car might need so you can negotiate that into the pricing as well.

[M3Bimmer77]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

You said "older," not higher mileage. Older implies age/year. There are plenty of 08s with 30-50k miles, just like there are plenty of 11s and 12s with that mileage.


Umm, what? I did, and I bought it. Not sure what you're saying.


The VANOS itself was $6k including labor. Each VANOS gear is about $1k (there are 4 of them) and it's about 13 hours of labor. Then they had to pull the oil pan to clean out plastic shavings from the VANOS failure which was causing the oil level sensor to act weird. That brought the total up to somewhere between $8-9k.

It's pretty simple. Buy an 08 for 30 -35k with 40k miles, more or less and that's if you can find one in good shape. Add a warranty and add all the upgrades to be comparable to an 11. You will be close to the price of buying a 2010 instead of an 08 and with 2-3k more you will buy a 2011. I don't see the deal. Sorry.

I never thought it would be that much. For the vanos. I just called by buddy at his shop. He told me that a fix like that could be around 4k and they can do it in 8-10 hrs. A dealer could charge 6k. And then he will charge 500 for two oil change. This includes cleaning of pan. That can add up to 9k on the dealer or 5k with a reputable shop. Is the warranty worth it? I'm not still sure. Bottom line I'm against these extended warranties. In your case you might have been lucky and used it, but most of the times it's a waste of money. Read online the statistics on extended warranties and you will see what I mean. I worked 9 years on insurance and 2+ years on extended warranties.

[Bushum]

Originally Posted by burtonsbs5114

Off topic, who is your warranty through and where did you get it?

Mine is from Carchex / Assurant. I was originally quoted I think $4800 so
I got a quote from another less reliable company even though I had no intention of using them. Carchex does price match as long as the contract terms are the same.

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by M3Bimmer77

It's pretty simple. Buy an 08 for 30 -35k with 40k miles, more or less and that's if you can find one in good shape. Add a warranty and add all the upgrades to be comparable to an 11. You will be close to the price of buying a 2010 instead of an 08 and with 2-3k more you will buy a 2011. I don't see the deal. Sorry.

I never thought it would be that much. For the vanos. I just called by buddy at his shop. He told me that a fix like that could be around 4k and they can do it in 8-10 hrs. A dealer could charge 6k. And then he will charge 500 for two oil change. This includes cleaning of pan. That can add up to 9k on the dealer or 5k with a reputable shop. Is the warranty worth it? I'm not still sure. Bottom line I'm against these extended warranties. In your case you might have been lucky and used it, but most of the times it's a waste of money. Read online the statistics on extended warranties and you will see what I mean. I worked 9 years on insurance and 2+ years on extended warranties.

I bought an 09 with under 40k miles for $33.5k and paid $2k for a 4yr warranty. $35.5k does not buy you a 2011, not even close. Not to mention a 2011 is also out of warranty, so if that's something you care about then you still have to tack warranty expense on regardless of year. The deal is you can save $5-7k for what is basically the same exact car. What upgrades are you referring to that would cost $7k to implement? I dont see how you're missing this. Sorry.

Yes, my repair was done at a dealer. Quite frankly I would not trust any of my local indy shops with this job. There is no way this could be done for $4k even if you were doing it yourself. The VANOS gears alone cost more than that, look it up for yourself on one of the countless BMW part sites. The driver side valve cover and timing chain cover also needed to be replaced so tack on another grand while you're at it. 2 oil changes? LOL, when all was said and done there were 4 oil changes (incorrectly diagnosed bad oil level sensor initially)! Do you realize cleaning the oil pan means dropping the sub frame? The time into the oil pan alone is over $1k worth of work. Honestly your friend is clueless and probably didn't bother looking up actual numbers for a job like this. You don't know the actual extent of the repair, so you should probably stop guessing and comparing to your buddy's shop to prove whatever your point is. Even if it was only $6k (which it was before the oil pan), that would mean the warranty paid for itself 3-fold!

Obviously in my case the warranty paid out big. But are you honestly saying you don't think a $2k warranty wouldn't pay for itself within 4yrs/50k miles on a car where just about anything that can go wrong costs over $1k? You think between 40-90k miles an M3 owner can expect to pay less than $2k in repairs?

The statistics you speak of are based predominantly on cars where the warranty really ISN'T worth it. You can't just say that since they are a rip off on a Camry with 40k mi that this applies to all cars. It's well worth having a warranty if you can get one for the right price on a car like the M3.

[M3Bimmer77]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

I bought an 09 with under 40k miles for $33.5k and paid $2k for a 4yr warranty. $35.5k does not buy you a 2011, not even close. Not to mention a 2011 is also out of warranty, so if that's something you care about then you still have to tack warranty expense on regardless of year. The deal is you can save $5-7k for what is basically the same exact car. What upgrades are you referring to that would cost $7k to implement? I dont see how you're missing this. Sorry.

Yes, my repair was done at a dealer. Quite frankly I would not trust any of my local indy shops with this job. There is no way this could be done for $4k even if you were doing it yourself. The VANOS gears alone cost more than that, look it up for yourself on one of the countless BMW part sites. The driver side valve cover and timing chain cover also needed to be replaced so tack on another grand while you're at it. 2 oil changes? LOL, when all was said and done there were 4 oil changes (incorrectly diagnosed bad oil level sensor initially)! Do you realize cleaning the oil pan means dropping the sub frame? The time into the oil pan alone is over $1k worth of work. Honestly your friend is clueless and probably didn't bother looking up actual numbers for a job like this. You don't know the actual extent of the repair, so you should probably stop guessing and comparing to your buddy's shop to prove whatever your point is. Even if it was only $6k (which it was before the oil pan), that would mean the warranty paid for itself 3-fold!

Obviously in my case the warranty paid out big. But are you honestly saying you don't think a $2k warranty wouldn't pay for itself within 4yrs/50k miles on a car where just about anything that can go wrong costs over $1k? You think between 40-90k miles an M3 owner can expect to pay less than $2k in repairs?

The statistics you speak of are based predominantly on cars where the warranty really ISN'T worth it. You can't just say that since they are a rip off on a Camry with 40k mi that this applies to all cars. It's well worth having a warranty if you can get one for the right price on a car like the M3.

I'm not really going into details of what you bought for what because all cars are different. Some people have bought 09 and have had vanos problems, I'm just saying. I prefer to spend 7-8k more on a newer model which is CPO and has 20k less miles. I'm not saying a 40k car is old but I prefer the less mileage.

An extended warranty is like an insurance. Chances are you will not use it. Going back to you, chances were that you used it and it turned out good. Most of the warranties are not used. That's were insurance companies make their money.
On the repair....probably my buddy is wrong, and your right, I do not know the extent of this repair. That's why I asked you for it and that's why I called by buddy., but if you did it at the dealer, that is the stealer price.
I hope you don't have more issues to have to use your warranty.

Good luck

OP, there you have two very different points of view. You decide what's best for you and what you want out of the car.

[Newb17]

I just bought an alpine white 2009 e92 M3 with 37K miles. I'm picky about no paintwork as well. Didn't see any on the one I bought. What did you find on the 2011 that lead you to believe it's been refinished? Just wondering...

FWIW, I had an '07 z06 and '13 ZL1 prior to the M3.

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

but I am firmly in the "6spd is more fun for a DD" camp. YMMV.

I agree.

[Disturbed]

Originally Posted by Z06Mike

Hey there,

It's my first time posting here after a long stint on the Corvetteforum and owning Corvettes I think it's time to move on and try something different.

I've owned many Corvettes and well I just always end up selling them due to lack of satisfaction and not driving them. I've owned numerous C5 Z06s and a couple C6 Z06s. I've determined after owning them that a car that I pay $XXX to sit in the garage isn't for me, I would like something that can be my daily driver but also take out to the occasional track day.

This weekend I went to a local dealer with intentions of test driving a 2012 CTS-V coupe with a six speed. After looking around I noticed they had a beautiful 2011 mineral white E92 M3. I looked in the interior and immediately dismissed it because it had the DCT. The salesman asked if I had ever driven one and I said no....about five minutes later I was screaming down the street running that 4.0 V8 out to 8000RPM (sounds very nice). Lol Needless to say I was VERY impressed with the DCT and the M3 as a whole. I think the car would be a great DD for myself and something I could take out to Laguna Seca or Thunderhill every once in awhile.

But I know NOTHING about BMW's. So I need some help.

Reliability and maintenance is obviously a concern but from everything I've read the E92 and the DCT are extremely reliable. Is this true? I would consider a third party warranty.

Except for the engine bearings I've read the cost is about $2-3K is there any specific mileage that this usually happens? Also is it just as simple as replacing the bearings? Or does machine work need accomplished as well? Any tell tale signs of this happening? One of the reasons why I'm leaving GM is because the massive and widespread failures of the LS7 engines in C6 Z06.

What has BMW done to fix the bearing issue? If anything. I know GM just pretty much said screw you with all the LS7 issues and won't even do a good will repair when it's a known issue.

What year should I get? I read that the 2011 received DCT upgrades as well as iDrive updates. Can I upgrade lets say a 2009 with the software if I buy one of those? What about the "M" button?

I was originally thinking of a 2011+ but those are around 40K where I can get a 2009 for about $30K.

Although I really want mineral white which is a a 2011 color. The car I test drove was a 2011 with prem. pack, tech pack, cold weather, comfort access and competition pack. (I think that's it)

Can someone school me on all the packages and options available?

The car I test drove is the exact one I would buy but I found evidence of paintwork which is a deal breaker for me especially considering the mileage and price. 49K miles asking $43K.

Any other advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

I'm putting mine up forsale soon 2009 62kmi DCT, EDC, Nav ect. Has warranty until 150,000 asking $35k. It's been adult owned and garaged its entire life. Car needs nothing but a new owner. Selling because I am going to pick up an Audi A7 TDI.

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by M3Bimmer77

I'm not really going into details of what you bought for what because all cars are different. Some people have bought 09 and have had vanos problems, I'm just saying. I prefer to spend 7-8k more on a newer model which is CPO and has 20k less miles. I'm not saying a 40k car is old but I prefer the less mileage.

$40-41k will not get you a CPO 2011+ M3 with 20k miles on it. It'll maybe buy you a non-CPO car with 30-40k miles on it though. CPO with that mileage is like $45-47k. Again, hardly enough difference between model years to justify spending that much IMO but to each their own. Taillights and wheels don't equate to anywhere close to that much money.

Originally Posted by M3Bimmer77

An extended warranty is like an insurance. Chances are you will not use it. Going back to you, chances were that you used it and it turned out good. Most of the warranties are not used. That's were insurance companies make their money.
On the repair....probably my buddy is wrong, and your right, I do not know the extent of this repair. That's why I asked you for it and that's why I called by buddy., but if you did it at the dealer, that is the stealer price.
I hope you don't have more issues to have to use your warranty.

Good luck

OP, there you have two very different points of view. You decide what's best for you and what you want out of the car.

I think we can certainly agree to disagree at this point . I agree that I paid (warranty paid) the dealer premium however the bulk of the cost was parts. Labor here is $140/hr and the indy shop in my area charges $130 (which is stupid high). There's another less reputable shop that charges $75, which is average for an indy shop. I would not have saved much at the end of the day and even if I did, I prefer to have this sort of high level repair completed by BMW rather than by some random guy at a random shop. If anything went/goes wrong, I want BMW service records available rather than Joe Schmo LLC records.

I'm well aware of how insurance/warranty make their money but sometimes you can make a pretty safe bet with them. I'm sure most people will not have VANOS issues (again, practically unheard of) but things like throttle actuators are known to act up and that repair alone would be half of the warranty cost. Basically one other thing going wrong on top of that and you've made your money back. I think $2k is a very low price to pay for the peace of mind in this case and the odds of getting your money's worth are actually tilted in the buyers favor. For people who are financing, that's an extra $30 a month. This may not be the case for people who drop $4-5k on a warranty obviously.

I know somebody who spent $2k on a 2yr/24k mile on a 2008 Chevy Aveo with 77k miles. The car itself was only $5k. That right there is what we call paying the stupid tax. A prime example of a ripoff on a warranty. It's silly to lump all extended warranties into that category though, you need to evaluate them on a case by case basis as with any high dollar purchase. Sometimes it's a safe bet, sometime's it's a stupid bet.

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by Disturbed

I'm putting mine up forsale soon 2009 62kmi DCT, EDC, Nav ect. Has warranty until 150,000 asking $35k. It's been adult owned and garaged its entire life. Car needs nothing but a new owner. Selling because I am going to pick up an Audi A7 TDI.

That's a great price for the mileage and coverage, should sell quick. GLWS!

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by Disturbed

I'm putting mine up forsale soon 2009 62kmi DCT, EDC, Nav ect. Has warranty until 150,000 asking $35k. It's been adult owned and garaged its entire life. Car needs nothing but a new owner. Selling because I am going to pick up an Audi A7 TDI.

A diesel hey? I always wondered about your name bro..😉