Out of the loop : Whats the verdict on TA replacement gears?

[anom3]

So I'm a bit out of the loop, still loving my E92 M3 though

Over the last 3 months I started getting the dreaded TA error codes. Of course, as the months progressed they started to pop up frequently. Now I'm getting them pretty much every time, WHILE driving. Until a week or so ago, they would only pop up on start up.

So, bank 2 TA needs to be delt with.

We all know the cost, 800 or something USD for a new one.

Then there are the replacement gears.

I see quite a few posts on various forums that folks who replaced the gears were still greated with the TA error code. At that point, finger gets pointed at the PCB housing all the eletronics inside the TA.

So, any verdict regarding the replacement gears?

Anyone have any positive or negative results?

Thanks!

[drrust]

There is no clear consensus, replacing gears maybe more of a PM fix. Replace before you throw a code. After codes are thrown, it seems to be hit or miss.

There is also a lower cost replacement available in the classifieds. It involves taking an M5 actuator and switching out the lever arm.

[pbonsalb]

Buy the new non BMW dealer M5 ones from the guy selling them for less. I changed the gears in one of mine and it still did not work and it was a pain to remove and test and swap repeatedly.

[KFN]

Rebuilt my TAs with the Odometer Gears kit, which turned out to be a temporary fix. Two months later the codes are back, and I'll be outright replacing them. Giant PITA, and I wish I had just gone with new parts while I had everything apart.

[Iyzmi]

I'm amazed anyone who does any research even still bothers with the gear replacement. The results are so mixed that it doesn't seem worth the time and hassle to me. Just replace them.

[Rajmun340]

My understanding is that when the OEM plastic gear start failing it forces the electronic board to operate with intermittently stuck gears which damages the output devices. To fix it right get a new board then switch the plastic gear with brass. If you switch the gear in a board that already gave error codes the electronic is already on its way to fail..

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

I'm amazed anyone who does any research even still bothers with the gear replacement. The results are so mixed that it doesn't seem worth the time and hassle to me. Just replace them.

this

[BrewRifle]

So if the electronic components are fine (I.E., your TA's are functioning without errors) and you swap the gears out for brass ones you should be good to go until the electronic components fail?

[Rat3d ///M]

Originally Posted by BrewRifle

So if the electronic components are fine (I.E., your TA's are functioning without errors) and you swap the gears out for brass ones you should be good to go until the electronic components fail?

Maybe..or just avoid the headache and put the money toward a new TA when yours fails They aren't THAT expensive

[pbonsalb]

Replacing the gears as preventative maintenance on actuators that have thrown no codes could be worth doing. The gears do wear. However, if they are sufficiently worn, it is likely the board damage is already done so even replacement when no codes have been thrown could be too late and maybe just buy some time.

If the effort is worth it to you, go for it. When they were $800 each, maybe. Not that they are $550 each, probably not.

I would wait until one fails, and then buy a new one at $550. When the other fails, buy another new one.

I had codes on one side. Bought gears, did both actuators. Still got codes. Swapped them left to right and the codes followed. Bought two used actuators, supposedly good. Put gears in them as well. Swapped one in, still got codes. Moved it to the other side, the code followed. Took it out, swapped the other used one it. That worked. What a colossal pain in the rear. I spend almost as much as a new actuator. The only good news is that 2 years later, I am still fine.

But now that prices are lower for the secondary source m5 actuators, my recommendation is that people skip the gears and just buy the actuators. Do one at a time if money is tighter than your time.

[doogee]

It's also a good idea to keep the shafts that run along the throttle bodies well lubricated.

If you turn your ignition on, and do not start the car, press the gas pedal a few times. If you can hear the throttle bodies squeaking, it's a good time to go in and lubricate all the moving components.

I noticed a massive difference in the amount of force needed to open the throttle bodies by hand after doing this.

Should take a lot of load off the throttle actuators.

I'm still on my originals at 100,000 miles.

[BrewRifle]

Originally Posted by doogee

It's also a good idea to keep the shafts that run along the throttle bodies well lubricated.

If you turn your ignition on, and do not start the car, press the gas pedal a few times. If you can hear the throttle bodies squeaking, it's a good time to go in and lubricate all the moving components.

I noticed a massive difference in the amount of force needed to open the throttle bodies by hand after doing this.

Should take a lot of load off the throttle actuators.

I'm still on my originals at 100,000 miles.

Is it possible to get to the throttle body shafts without taking the plenum off? I'd like to give that a shot as I'm still on my original TA's.

[doogee]

Originally Posted by BrewRifle

Is it possible to get to the throttle body shafts without taking the plenum off? I'd like to give that a shot as I'm still on my original TA's.

Unfortunately it has to come off

Super easy though if you've never done it.

[JonM]

If you have never thrown a code, are mechanically handy and have a drill press, it's worth upgrading the gears. Clean everything under the plenum while you are at it.

If you throw a code, buy complete TA assemblies. Don't expect new gears to save you. Get the OEM ones for less than the OE ones from dealers.

[Iyzmi]

FWIW I had one of my actuators replaced last year and the new one lasted less than 6k miles. I opened it up and, as expected, both the gears and the circuit board looked brand new. I replaced it with another brand new actuator and the codes were gone. I see no point in changing the gears, even as a preventative measure.

[BrewRifle]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

FWIW I had one of my actuators replaced last year and the new one lasted less than 6k miles. I opened it up and, as expected, both the gears and the circuit board looked brand new. I replaced it with another brand new actuator and the codes were gone. I see no point in changing the gears, even as a preventative measure.

That leads me to want to get this done at a dealership where you get a two year warranty , but have to spend an arm and a leg to do so.

[Rajmun340]

Originally Posted by doogee

It's also a good idea to keep the shafts that run along the throttle bodies well lubricated.

If you turn your ignition on, and do not start the car, press the gas pedal a few times. If you can hear the throttle bodies squeaking, it's a good time to go in and lubricate all the moving components.

I noticed a massive difference in the amount of force needed to open the throttle bodies by hand after doing this.

Should take a lot of load off the throttle actuators.

I'm still on my originals at 100,000 miles.

THIS ! I just remember a German fellow said the exact same thing. This is what everyone with an M3 needs to do as a preventive maintenance and your TA's should stay good forever. The plastic gears are the weak link but what really causes them to fail is the load when the long rod grease gets sucked away over time. Only i don't know what kind of grease/lubricant should be used ?????

[burnrbr]

I upgraded my gears with derlin and brass from alpina527 from UK cutters site. I did before any codes were thrown as a preventative measure. Time will tell if that was a good choice.

[BanjoPaterson]

Originally Posted by burnrbr

I upgraded my gears with derlin and brass from alpina527 from UK cutters site. I did before any codes were thrown as a preventative measure. Time will tell if that was a good choice.

I did the same August 2015 and so far all good after 15,000km. Likewise, I bought my reduction gears from alpina527.

After replacing the reduction gears I saw my OEM reduction gears and they didn't seem worn -- which is apparently what stresses the electronics causing them to overheat -- so hopefully these will last. Like burnrbr, time will tell if it's a good choice or not.

[kscarrol]

Originally Posted by BrewRifle

That leads me to want to get this done at a dealership where you get a two year warranty , but have to spend an arm and a leg to do so.

Won't necessarily be a lot cheaper but I had mine done at my indy shop. They buy the BMW part so the two year warranty is still honored. I know because I am now on my third pair of TA's!

[doogee]

Originally Posted by JoeM3SSII

THIS ! I just remember a German fellow said the exact same thing. This is what everyone with an M3 needs to do as a preventive maintenance and your TA's should stay good forever. The plastic gears are the weak link but what really causes them to fail is the load when the long rod grease gets sucked away over time. Only i don't know what kind of grease/lubricant should be used ?????

I just use a simple Dry Lube. Just try to use something that wont collect dirt.

3 in 1 or Liquid Wrench Dry Lube should be just fine.

[burnrbr]

The resistance in the throttle mechanism is largely from the return springs. The friction at the arm connections is minor at best. Just manually move the arms with the car off, you'll feel what the gears are pushing against which leads to wear on the factory gears.