Pictures of your radar detector setup

[TridenTBoy]

I'm interested in where you all put your radar detectors and how you wire them in. I'm getting the Uniden R3 in the mail tomorrow and I need to start thinking about where to place it!

I might mount it near the mirror and do a mirror/lights hardwire even though that supplies constant power even when the car is off. From what I hear, the Uniden will shut off after 5 minutes if it detects no movement. Good enough for me!

Does the convertible top interfere with rear detection? I was just thinking about picking up rear laser and what not. I drive about 90% of the time with the top down but I would like to know from other owners!

[tock172]

The best wiring solution for the 1-series is to do a fuse panel tap and run the wiring up along the passenger side A-pillar to the overhead console, and then down towards the mirror.

In all of my previous BMWs, I tapped into a wire in the overhead console, but this didn't work on my previous 135i as the best available power source in the area was interrupted when the sunroof was operated.

[1and1]

I wired mine to switched power up by the sunroof and it's been working perfect for months. On & off with the key, no problems or intermittent behavior from the radar detector, the lights or the sunroof.

Was easy to do and no need to pull wire all the way down the A pillar to the fuse box.

This would be my strongly encouraged method of hardwiring if you want your radar detector to live high center on the windshield by the mirror.

DIY How-to: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209491

My tint is ceramic, so it doesn't interfere with the rd operation like metallic tint does...

[tock172]

1and1 I followed that exact DIY on my 2011 135i and every time I operated the sunroof, power to my Valentine 1 was interrupted. I'm guessing it may have something to do with either the radar detector or a change made some time during production, as both your car and the one featured in the DIY are earlier than either my 1-series by a few years.

I also have mine set up in almost the exact same place as yours. The fuse panel tap did not limit me in where I could mount my V1 in any way.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211933

[1and1]

Well, year over year changes are certainly possible, and experience is what it is, can't hardly argue with that!

Without any details like current draw & such I'd suspect that the Valentine's current draw is a bit more than my simple little Beltronics unit. I've read about others having some issues which is why I mentioned the lack of intermittent issues specifically in my post above.

Would be easy enough to put a meter on the green/white wire and be sure it's a simple switched power feed, and that it's available current doesn't drop below what's needed when the sunroof is activated.

Still, I'd tap the sunroof first due to ease of access, then go to the fuse box if needed
That same DIY thread I linked also has instructions for the A pillar to the fuse box method

[PA135i]

I used the link in the above posts to install my V1. I don't leave it on typically. Meaning, it is not constantly powered when the car is off. But I still turn it off when I leave the car because I don't need it for routine trips.

Have had mine installed for 2 years with no power issues.

[tock172]

Originally Posted by 1and1

Well, year over year changes are certainly possible, and experience is what it is, can't hardly argue with that!

Without any details like current draw & such I'd suspect that the Valentine's current draw is a bit more than my simple little Beltronics unit. I've read about others having some issues which is why I mentioned the lack of intermittent issues specifically in my post above.

Would be easy enough to put a meter on the green/white wire and be sure it's a simple switched power feed, and that it's available current doesn't drop below what's needed when the sunroof is activated.

Still, I'd tap the sunroof first due to ease of access, then go to the fuse box if needed
That same DIY thread I linked also has instructions for the A pillar to the fuse box method

That's my thinking as well. I should have put one of my meters on the wire I used but it didn't cross my mind. The other thing I like about the fuse tap is that it's 100% reversible. No electrical tape or shrink tubing left behind where I tapped before. I suppose I've actually gotten in the habit of doing it this way after my B6 S4 and Honda Civic both required I draw power from the fuse block. I almost did it that way on my E36 M3, as the wiring up in the overhead console was so damn thin I couldn't maintain a good connection.

Here's my setup:

[doublevanosrc]

Originally Posted by tock172

That's my thinking as well. I should have put one of my meters on the wire I used but it didn't cross my mind. The other thing I like about the fuse tap is that it's 100% reversible. No electrical tape or shrink tubing left behind where I tapped before. I suppose I've actually gotten in the habit of doing it this way after my B6 S4 and Honda Civic both required I draw power from the fuse block. I almost did it that way on my E36 M3, as the wiring up in the overhead console was so damn thin I couldn't maintain a good connection.

Here's my setup:

Got mine set up the same way, easy reach for adjusting the volume or mute button.