Clicks, but doesn't crank (FIXED)

[aric3320]

Hello,

I have a 2010 135i with 70k that wont start. I can hear and feel the starter solenoid clicking, but it wont crank over. My battery is good and all the connections I can see look clean and tight. This happened suddenly, I drove the car about 45 min before this problem started. I had a 330Ci that had a bad starter, but that took months before I finally had to replace it.

What I've done so far:
-Charged the battery over night
-Tested the battery voltage - 12.5vdc
-Tried starting it with the charges set to 200amps
-"Beat" on the starter motor with an extension
- Pop starting the car down a hill, there is a chance I had the push button start in the wrong position when I did this, no luck
-Verified the BST is good (Battery Safety Terminal)
-Tried to test the IBS (intelligent battery sensor, but it is missing. Just a brown cable that runs to ground.

My nest step is to remove the intake manifold for better inspection of the starter motor. I'm guessing if the starter solenoid is clicking the motor must be bad.
My car also has a JB4, intake, charge pipe and exhaust system. I doubt the JB4 is causing the problem. It is currently it disabled.

Any thoughts?

[olds350]

I have 2 thoughts here... When I first considered my 128, I was told by my trusted mechanic that the starters on these cars are too small and prone to an early failure. I'm actually buying a starter for my wife's e91, it's always been slow to start.

Test the battery under load. You'll need a 2nd person. Put a multi-meter on the battery and set it appropriately for 12vdc. Have someone start the car. The voltage should drop to about ~10.5 volts. If it reads lower than 10.5 or in the 9v range, it's the battery. If the voltage reads good, then it's likely the starter has seen better days...

[MightyMouseTech]

Also, check the battery cables near the charging point under the hood. They are known to fail there.

[olds350]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Also, check the battery cables near the charging point under the hood. They are known to fail there.

Can you be a little more specific about this location? What exactly am I looking for? Are you referring to the battery terminal jump point for the positive cable? How do they fail?

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by olds350

Can you be a little more specific about this location? What exactly am I looking for? Are you referring to the battery terminal jump point for the positive cable? How do they fail?

Yes, where all the cables come together at the junction point. The terminals will separate from the cable. Have seen it mentioned several times here.

See here:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...=battery+cable

[olds350]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Yes, where all the cables come together at the junction point. The terminals will separate from the cable. Have seen it mentioned several times here.

See here:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...=battery+cable

That sir is great information. My wife has an '11 328 that has basically the same configuration as the 128 and has always had a "slow" starter. Have to change the oil in it this weekend. Looks like I'm going over every connection point on the car to chase down the slow start issue. Much cheaper than buying a new starter... Thanks for the info!!

[Craig in Alabam]

Hi Folks,

Aric, you said your battery after charging showed 12.5vdc. A fully charged battery should show 12.8 - 13 vdc. At 12.5 volts it's only about 70% charged, so you may still have a weak battery. Just thought I'd mention it.

Cheers!
Craig

[aric3320]

I did test the battery under load trying to start the car. It only dropped a few tenths of a volt. So I knew the starter wasn't drawing any current or the drop would have been greater. I ended up pulling the starter out. The problem was the solenoid not making a the connection internally. The motor turned over on the bench, but not when I did it with voltage through the solenoid.

FYI...You don't need to pull the intake manifold off. I had this tool from the last time I did a starter on my e46

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With this ratchet tool, you can get to it. I also tied a piece of string to it and then around my wrist in case I dropped it, which I did. I bent the ratchet in the vise to give it a slight jog so it clears the firewall. When in install the bolt I bend it in the opposite direction.

Well its fixed now. thanks for the responses.