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      09-30-2017, 09:12 PM   #1
monterey
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help, anyone install dinan sway bar?

Today i swapped out my oem links with the dinan links and now i have a constant clunking noise over bumps. i looked around but can't seem to find what it can be. at full drop of the wheels, the brake lines do hit the link but thats at full drop which the car normally would not do in the road. any suggestions? btw what holes on the bar did you use?
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      09-30-2017, 10:52 PM   #2
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I also am interested in a response to Monterey's question.
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      09-30-2017, 11:45 PM   #3
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I put in the front bar and endlinks earlier this year. I have zero odd noise.

Be sure the bolts that attach to the struts and bar have sufficient range of motion in case of suspension compression or droop. That's the only thing I can think of or pre-load. Ensure you didn't attach the links with one side of the suspension compressed and the other uncompressed for example. This may cause issues when both wheels are compressed at the same time.

Also ensure you provided the tie rods with sufficient clearance in case of suspension movement that may cause the bar to come in contact with the rods.

I went with the mid-hole which made a significant improvement in body roll and I don't notice increased understeer but I also run 275 width tires up front.
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      10-01-2017, 12:17 AM   #4
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do you remember how much threads you left on the bolts? i barely have any threads showing. there's really not much adjustments i can do.
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      10-01-2017, 06:56 AM   #5
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Usually, noise occurring after this mod is due to hardware not being tightened down adequately. If your parts are not colliding with each other then that's where I would start.
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      10-01-2017, 10:37 AM   #6
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Adjust the end links to the absolute shortest possible setting and the noise will go away. The sway bar is hitting your lower control arm.
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      10-01-2017, 12:08 PM   #7
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can i do this at the wheel well? i had a shop do it. so not sure what to expect if i unbolt it. will it be hard to put it back on once i shorten it. only one side will be done at a time or do i have to unload both sides?
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      10-01-2017, 12:18 PM   #8
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do i just loosen the locking nuts and rotate the bar to shorten while its on the car?
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      10-01-2017, 01:10 PM   #9
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i just looked and the links are already at the shortest.
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      10-01-2017, 04:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monterey View Post
i just looked and the links are already at the shortest.
Then they are lose at the end points. Make sure the 17mm nuts are as tight as humanly possible. Also check the lower control arms for scrape marks.
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      10-05-2017, 06:20 PM   #11
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Attached are pics to give you an idea of what mine looks like. I followed the instructions pretty close and had to adjust the length of the endlinks when I installed a coilover conversion kit.

Sorry I tried to rotate the pics to make them easier to look at but it doesn't work when I upload. These are taken from bottom up.

Hope this helps you get your setup sorted out!
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      10-06-2017, 12:43 AM   #12
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IMHO, you owe it to yourself, and any potential passengers in your car to have the shop remove the front wheels and see if there are any bolts or nuts loose from the install. If there are any loose, they will steadily attempt to un thread and subsequently fall off, leaving you in a potentially bad situation.
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      10-08-2017, 01:18 PM   #13
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Look at your front tension arms for rub marks and the subframe. Im betting the sway bar is hitting there. The gap between the end of the sway bar and LCA seems to be alot wider than any of the 10 Dinan sway bars I've installed. Something is definitely wrong with the install.
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      10-08-2017, 02:21 PM   #14
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Check out where the end link attaches to the strut. It must be seated correctly in the hole. Look at that part carefully. I messed with my end links one time and did t seat it correctly which caused a clunking sound even though it was torqued.

Also if endlinks are adjustable make sure they at least line up in length with the oem endlinks. I hate clunks. I hope I helped some how!
Tim

Last edited by Ram3n; 10-08-2017 at 02:43 PM..
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      10-09-2017, 01:29 PM   #15
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I gave up and put the oem links back on. No more clunk. The top link that attaches to the strut tower is conical and can not be misaligned. I took it apart and put it back on 4 times, I can't solve this one. The only thing is the dinan links are longer even at it's shortest setting. This is the only thing I can think of. I don't see any shiney marks where rubbing has occurred. The only thing I notice is the boots rub like crazy at full lock and full drop but when I checked when the car is on the ground, it has tons of clearance. This install was cursed from the get go when they included the wrong parts...
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      10-10-2017, 02:02 AM   #16
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Right on. I'd rather be clunk free with oem links than clunking with aftermarket ones! Glad it's not clunking any more
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