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03-14-2018, 08:42 PM | #1 |
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Camber Out - Too Much Positive
I installed the 135 springs and Koni Sport shocks in my 08 128 back in November. At the same time I had the winter tires mounted, and had Brakes Plus align the car.
The driver's side camber was out of spec 1/10th of a degree positive. I track the car a few times a year, and the left front gets the most wear at High Plains Raceway. The Hunter machine instructed the tech to knock out the alignment pin on the top mount in order to move the strut inward. after he took few whacks we agreed to leave it out of spec the 1/10th. Spring is in the air, and I will get another alignment soon. Short of taking everything apart (thought of compressing springs ) and installing camber plates, is there a way to add some negative camber from below? Car hasn't been hit, so I am assuming it left the factory out of spec. I read the posts about the Dinan fixed plates. It is a daily driver that does a 100 mile round trip highway run regularly, and I am not sure I want a lot of negative camber for the street tires. Thanks
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Last edited by Tommm; 03-14-2018 at 09:10 PM.. |
03-15-2018, 03:37 PM | #3 | |
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Now that i drove it a few thousand, and i track it occasionally, i want to get a little more negative. If I remove the struts and pop out the alignment tab, how much neg camber can i get? Is it worth doing that without adding the dinan plates, or installing adjustable plates?
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03-15-2018, 03:54 PM | #4 |
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Even if it is within factory spec, it is woefully inadequate for any kind of track use, hell, it is not even good for street use. I would seriously consider getting the Dinan plates. About the same amount of work as dropping the front struts to cut off the alignment pin.
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03-15-2018, 04:03 PM | #5 | |
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03-15-2018, 04:05 PM | #6 | |
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Looks like about 0.5 deg. |
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03-15-2018, 04:08 PM | #7 |
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You don't need to drop the struts to remove the alignment dowel. Take a chisel, or flathead screwdriver and a hammer and whack the pin from the side and it'll pop out.
Removing the pins and using the factory adjustment with get you to -0.3* to -0.4* max up front.
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03-15-2018, 04:26 PM | #8 |
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So if i whack the pin i will get .3 to .5, if i install the dinan i will get max .7? that means the dinan adds max .4 min .2 deg?
Is the only adjustment from the top? Also, thanks!
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03-15-2018, 04:37 PM | #9 | |
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I think with just the alignment pins removed I was at around -1.2-1.3*. Dinan fixed plates are supposed to be good for -.7*. If you have an alignment problem then fixed plates will not do anything for you to correct the imbalance. You would need adjustable plates in order to get the side to side camber even (which is more important than having more negative camber). Ideally you would fix whatever is bent. 1/10 of a degree positive camber might seem ok because it's still in the green, but it is not normal and chances are the other wheel is at close to -.5* like it should be. That creates a pull when camber is off from side to side... |
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03-15-2018, 05:18 PM | #10 | |
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the alignment was done about 8 miles after I installed the Konis and new bushings.
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03-16-2018, 09:32 AM | #13 | |
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Is this a Honda/VW forum now? |
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03-16-2018, 10:58 AM | #14 |
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Track is maybe a half dozen days a year and I may use the 944S for a few of them. Its also the other 15k a year i have to deal with.
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03-16-2018, 11:02 AM | #15 |
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I run about -2.0 in the front for my daily driver. Tire wear is not an issue and it handles a hell of a lot better. I have the Dinan plates and M3 front arms.
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03-16-2018, 11:22 AM | #16 | |
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I think i had -2.0 on my E36 M3 with PSS9s. Any difference between the Turnor and Dinan plates besides $18? Now i have to figure out what to do with the rear. I have Koni Sports, and will add the whiteline inserts when the weather gets better. I put the 16" winter tires on the day i installed the Konis.
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03-16-2018, 11:28 AM | #17 | |
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03-16-2018, 11:35 AM | #18 |
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ill find it. swear i saw it yesterday, Just checked my browsers history. I got a link, but i didnt check to see it fits our car. my bad. You are correct. I got a coupon for 8% eBay bucks. used that and saved twelve bucks on the Dinan plates. Cant wait to pull the struts again!
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03-16-2018, 05:49 PM | #19 | |
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I find what this dude says to be interesting while discussing slotting strut towers... -ajsalida By "street based" here I meant dedicated track-only cars in racing classes that are required to be based on street cars. Like Improved Touring classes in SCCA. These are full-on race cars with full cages, gutted interiors, etc. that started life as street cars. It's been a while but back when I knew this stuff IT cars could do minor suspension (coilovers + sway bars) and external engine mods (headers etc.), welded diffs, but were supposed to be "affordable" racing. Point is the shit got beat out of these cars on race tracks day in day out and none broke due to slotting strut towers, which was SCCA legal. Now would I do this to my 335i xDrive coupe? No, as I don't need any more camber (yet) and if I wanted a track car it sure wouldn't be this one. Too heavy, too luxo, too sedate. This car is my mid-life snowboarder guy mountain car. But it is a legit and well understood mod for people who want low-budget camber for whatever reason. |
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03-20-2018, 09:43 AM | #20 |
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^Oh I get it, same way people use "crash bolts" and such. I'm just a fan of spending the extra $$$ and doing it properly.
Like when I built my Miata track car, every bolt that came off the 20+ year old suspension was all replaced with new, new bushings in all 8 control arms, new eccentrics, etc. |
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03-20-2018, 10:11 AM | #21 | |
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03-20-2018, 12:16 PM | #22 | |
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