H&R supersport install - spring removal issues

[durpflip]

hi all,

i'm installing H&R supersport lowering springs and i'm having issues with the passenger side rear spring. i cannot, for the life of me, get the torx bolts out... one of them is stripped & seized beyond belief (my go-to solution of cutting a notch in the bolt and using a flathead doesn't work either). i've also tried prying the strut out of the rubber gasket by unscrewing the big center nut underneath the lower control arm and yanking with a crowbar but without success.

is there any way to bypass those two torx bolts or get the strut out without destroying the rubber "gasket" it sits in?

edit 05/03/2018 - i fitted them in! had a friend jiggle the spring for me and we got it out and went on with our business. still needs an alignment, but it's a milestone all the same. here's the result.



- i'm aware the rear strut is settled quite a lot. it's leaky, and i'm going to replace it, but funds don't allow that right now. college students can't exactly afford everything

[1and1]

Well, I wouldn't bother with the torx bolts just for dropping the control arm to install springs.

Shock is held in place with just the single nut under the control arm. You do, of course, need to pull the bolt that holds the control arm to the hub, and have a jack under the arm to control lowering the arm against the spring pressure.

If needed you can mark the alignment washer/control arm, then loosen that inner bolt also. I was able to swap springs without needing to, but Florida car, so yours is probably in worse shape.

When you can I'd encourage replacing the lower shock mount and torx bolts, both sides, even if it means pulling the control arms so you can have em on a bench to service them.

[durpflip]

Originally Posted by 1and1

Well, I wouldn't bother with the torx bolts just for dropping the control arm to install springs.

Shock is held in place with just the single nut under the control arm. You do, of course, need to pull the bolt that holds the control arm to the hub, and have a jack under the arm to control lowering the arm against the spring pressure.

If needed you can mark the alignment washer/control arm, then loosen that inner bolt also. I was able to swap springs without needing to, but Florida car, so yours is probably in worse shape.

When you can I'd encourage replacing the lower shock mount and torx bolts, both sides, even if it means pulling the control arms so you can have em on a bench to service them.

thanks for the advice.

i've tried removing the center nut for the shock. it's just dropping the control arm about 1-2 centimeters; not enough to remove compression from the spring and prying it hasn't budged it at all

i'll try to remove the inner bolt and see what happens. i'll post pictures once i get out of school.

[1and1]

IIRC, the steps for spring swap should be (if doing inner bolt too)

-remove lower shock mount nut
-place jack under control arm by hub to take up spring pressure
-remove bolt attaching control arm to hub
-lower jack carefully letting spring pressure separate arm from hub
-if needed, use magic marker to index alignment tab to control arm, then
-loosen inner bolt allowing free movement of control arm

Remember when reinstalling use jack to overcome spring pressure, insert hub bolt, then raise jack enough to /just/ start to lift car from jackstand at that corner- simulating the suspension at ride height- then tighten the control arm bolts. Otherwise you'll be prestressing the bushings which is a very bad thing...

After removing hub to control arm bolt the shock may well extend to match control arm as it lowers, but you should be able to just push the shock body up by hand if needed. If the shock body is seized to the lower mount some love with a pry bar should pop it loose.

Note that the lower spring perch rubber is "keyed"- there is an inner and an outer that need to line up when inserting into the control arm.

This video may help- rear starts at the 3 minute mark

[low135]

I just unbolted the shock and the two bolts holding the spring "bucket" in. Rears we're pretty in and out aside from the drivers side rear bolt as it goes up against the exhaust.

Here's mine right after install

[1and1]

Yeah, I was lucky and didn't even have to touch the inner bolt, just remove the hub bolt and was able to pull the control arm down enough to get the spring free of the upper perch easy-peasy

[durpflip]

Originally Posted by 1and1

Yeah, I was lucky and didn't even have to touch the inner bolt, just remove the hub bolt and was able to pull the control arm down enough to get the spring free of the upper perch easy-peasy

the driver's side was exactly as you described, albeit i unmounted the shock from the two torx bolts to get it completely out with no pressure (i'm working alone most of the time).

however the inner bolt removal seems promising, although a bit scary. i spotted an offset washer inside the inner bolt hole like you said so i put a line w/ sharpie across it and got it out. i need about two inches or so of clearance to get it out so i'll wait for a buddy to come by and steal my bee-- work on that control arm.

thanks for the help guys

[1and1]

Worth noting I did the whole suspension- dampers & springs both, so I had the shocks out already when I attacked the springs.

That said, if I was doing just springs I'd remove the lower shock mount nut to allow pulling the control arm down, not the two torx bolts.

Either way, however you approach the process, be sure to use a jack to compensate for spring pressure! Be safe!