135i Strange starting behavior

[jamespaoli]

Hey guys,

Car: 2009 bmw 135i

I know there are many threads on starting issues but it seems everyones situation is a bit different and has had different resolutions, please see my issues and help provide any info, thanks!

Car had accessories left on and wouldnt start, battery measured at 11.6volts, jumped it and it started

Drove the car 30 minutes or so, 2 days later car wouldnt start, tested battery again 11.6 to 11.7, jumped it, it started

Go outside the next day, car has a long crank but starts, tested battery while running 14v
Next day car doesnt start, battery measures at 12.8v, car hardly cranked on first attempt than anything after that no cranking noise, will upload video

Is there any way to test all the points of failure here before going to dealer/shop?
Alternator, starter and any wiring inbetween?

PS. I checked for IBS but i dont believe i have one

Link to video:

[Happy Jose]

The first thing you should do when you have electrical issues is do a load test on the battery. You can instantly determine the condition of the battery. That means you'll either replace it or eliminate it as a culprit in your problems.

Too much time is wasted pointing fingers at the battery when in most cases it is something completely unrelated.

[chris_flies]

Find the under-the-counter positive jump point, and trace it/it's cable to a small junction. Pop the cover off of that junction and make sure that the starter/alternator cable isn't frayed/snapped. It's a common issue that causes poor battery charging and iffy starting. It's a roughly $50 part and two hours to replace, if it is bad.

[jamespaoli]

Ok ill try to test the CCA thank you

[jamespaoli]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Find the under-the-counter positive jump point, and trace it/it's cable to a small junction. Pop the cover off of that junction and make sure that the starter/alternator cable isn't frayed/snapped. It's a common issue that causes poor battery charging and iffy starting. It's a roughly $50 part and two hours to replace, if it is bad.

Do you have any photos or location? I will absolutely test/check im just unaware of which component

Thanks

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by jamespaoli

Do you have any photos or location? I will absolutely test/check im just unaware of which component

Thanks

This is the junction; simply pull the black plastic cover off, and take a good look at the cable running out of the top and then across the engine.

[Dackelone]

Have your battery load tested. I bet your battery is the original unit. IF you have to replace the battery... don't forget to have it coded to your car and the IBS reset - so that your alternator charges it correctly. Yes, BMW's since 2007 have IBS.

Dack

[jamespaoli]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

This is the junction; simply pull the black plastic cover off, and take a good look at the cable running out of the top and then across the engine.

Cable looks perfect thank you!

[jamespaoli]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Have your battery load tested. I bet your battery is the original unit. IF you have to replace the battery... don't forget to have it coded to your car and the IBS reset - so that your alternator charges it correctly. Yes, BMW's since 2007 have IBS.

Dack

Thanks Dack, i posted a photo of my battery to my knowledge the IBS should be on the negative terminal correct? I was going to disconnect it and try to start but i dont see the IBS at all..

Few other questions, going to have it load tested today. I do have carly adapter and app if need be(my friend has it)
Anything i should check with carly or do?

Also if i end up replacing the battery any reccomendations to type/brand?

Thanks everyone

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by jamespaoli

Thanks Dack, i posted a photo of my battery to my knowledge the IBS should be on the negative terminal correct? I was going to disconnect it and try to start but i dont see the IBS at all..

Few other questions, going to have it load tested today. I do have carly adapter and app if need be(my friend has it)
Anything i should check with carly or do?

Also if i end up replacing the battery any reccomendations to type/brand?

Thanks everyone

That's correct that the IBS is located on the negative post.

IF you have access to Carly... sure check for any codes. You never know! Also check with your dealer for the battery cable(junction box) recall... that is has been done.

Has your battery been replaced before? Maybe this is your problem ?

[jamespaoli]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

That's correct that the IBS is located on the negative post.

IF you have access to Carly... sure check for any codes. You never know! Also check with your dealer for the battery cable(junction box) recall... that is has been done.

Has your battery been replaced before? Maybe this is your problem ?

Hey Dack,
Thanks for posting and helping me so much... Just one question, i posted a photo of my battery and my negative terminal doesnt have the IBS on it... My vehicle is a 2009 135i, is there any other location this may be for my car?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by jamespaoli

Hey Dack,
Thanks for posting and helping me so much... Just one question, i posted a photo of my battery and my negative terminal doesnt have the IBS on it... My vehicle is a 2009 135i, is there any other location this may be for my car?

No, not that I know of. I don't think your car has an IBS.






Not IBS but might also help...

[wantmymoneyincash]

Originally Posted by jamespaoli

Hey Dack,
Thanks for posting and helping me so much... Just one question, i posted a photo of my battery and my negative terminal doesnt have the IBS on it... My vehicle is a 2009 135i, is there any other location this may be for my car?

you ever get this figured out? I gotta '13 135is and have the same brown negative wire you do. The car has no problem starting but the battery voltages are low. OEM battery. Car is throwing:
0038A4 (advanced communication intelligent battery sensor: malfunction)
0038B4 (BSD, communication; intelligent battery sensor; missing) .
003887 (vehicle power supply voltage operating range, voltage too low) .

Bought the car like this so not sure if it was replaced. RealOEM.com tells me there two conflicting part numbers for IBS. One is the straight brown lead, and the other says the lead w/ IBS and the adapter. The one in the picture shows the one with the IBS so I ordered the OE Hella one and adapter off FCP so I will test it out with a new battery sometime this week.

[rivr]

Originally Posted by wantmymoneyincash

you ever get this figured out? I gotta '13 135is and have the same brown negative wire you do. The car has no problem starting but the battery voltages are low. OEM battery. Car is throwing:
0038A4 (advanced communication intelligent battery sensor: malfunction)
0038B4 (BSD, communication; intelligent battery sensor; missing) .
003887 (vehicle power supply voltage operating range, voltage too low) .

Bought the car like this so not sure if it was replaced. RealOEM.com tells me there two conflicting part numbers for IBS. One is the straight brown lead, and the other says the lead w/ IBS and the adapter. The one in the picture shows the one with the IBS so I ordered the OE Hella one and adapter off FCP so I will test it out with a new battery sometime this week.

Did you ever figure it out, I have the exact same problem.

[wantmymoneyincash]

Originally Posted by rivr

Did you ever figure it out, I have the exact same problem.

I did get a new battery which helped voltage levels but the car was still throwing those 2 IBS codes. I tried both configs (one with the brown and one with the IBS) and it still was throwing those codes. So...I left it.

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by wantmymoneyincash

I did get a new battery which helped voltage levels but the car was still throwing those 2 IBS codes. I tried both configs (one with the brown and one with the IBS) and it still was throwing those codes. So...I left it.

Did you code/program the car to the new battery?

[wantmymoneyincash]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Did you code/program the car to the new battery?

Yup. My car actually came with the brown wire, no IBS, and was throwing the code so I was like strange but let me just get an IBS, still threw the codes. I haven't noticed anything negative with or without it besides those codes (no CEL or I would have a fit lol). I've had the IBS sensor on for about 20k miles now so...who knows.

[rivr]

Originally Posted by wantmymoneyincash

Yup. My car actually came with the brown wire, no IBS, and was throwing the code so I was like strange but let me just get an IBS, still threw the codes. I haven't noticed anything negative with or without it besides those codes (no CEL or I would have a fit lol). I've had the IBS sensor on for about 20k miles now so...who knows.

Not sure if you can help but I plan on changing the battery and I can't seem to find a dealer that sells AGM batteries near me so I was going to just get a lead-acid battery. I've been having trouble figuring out what exactly I need to do. Some people say it needs to be recoded but there's also some info saying you just need to register it if you have a brown cable (I do).

Also, what did you use to register it? I'm planning on getting a K+DCAN cable to use for diagnosing other issues but it seems that e82 isn't under the models.

Thanks.

[dtla1]

I've gotten new batteries at Pepboys was AGM, third party stores sell batteries that work for our cares too, not just dealers.

[wantmymoneyincash]

Originally Posted by rivr

Not sure if you can help but I plan on changing the battery and I can't seem to find a dealer that sells AGM batteries near me so I was going to just get a lead-acid battery. I've been having trouble figuring out what exactly I need to do. Some people say it needs to be recoded but there's also some info saying you just need to register it if you have a brown cable (I do).

Also, what did you use to register it? I'm planning on getting a K+DCAN cable to use for diagnosing other issues but it seems that e82 isn't under the models.

Thanks.

Ya just head to your local autozone or parts store, even walmart has some decent batteries these days. I used Protools to code the battery, it was super simple. I believe you can use Carly? someone may have to confirm that.

You only need to code the battery if it is a different CCA and/or size (H7 vs H5 etc). If you get the exact same size and CCA as the OEM battery, you do not need to code it.

[lemansblau135is]

Protools can do it

If its like for like, just register it

If its different, code and register

[Lester]

"You only need to code the battery if it is a different CCA and/or size (H7 vs H5 etc). If you get the exact same size and CCA as the OEM battery, you do not need to code it."

I have read that even it is the same battery, because it's new, it needs to be registered. The computer will treat an older battery differently than a new one. Not registering it may shorten the life of the new battery.