04-21-2019, 08:46 PM | #1 |
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What should I do? Too much understeer?
Attached is a pic of my front tires. Is this from too much understeer or is my alignment jacked? I corded the inside of my tires.
Running Ohlins with -2.5 all the way around. Rear wheels look fine. Not sure what I should do to fix this from happening again. Chris |
04-22-2019, 11:35 AM | #2 |
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I had that happen too on my last set of tires. I too run -2.5 and it happened on both my street tires and track tires.
Weird thing was it happened on both front and rear passenger tires and not just both fronts. Did not happen on either driver side tire. |
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04-22-2019, 01:13 PM | #4 |
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Funny, that you post this at exactly the same time I am experiencing the same issue. Looks like you were also on NT01s.
I thought I had maybe 2 - 3 more dry days on my tires until I noticed cording of my front left (after mostly a right turn course, which makes sense). The other three tires are still good. I didn't even initially notice, as I usually look at the outside edge for wear. Anyways, I'm running 3.2 neg camber and a little toe out. I think this has to do more with the toe out. But also appreciate any thoughts from folks on the forum. Last edited by dvas; 04-22-2019 at 01:24 PM.. |
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04-22-2019, 01:47 PM | #5 |
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Toe eats tires much more than camber. I’d adjust it first. A good compromised setup for street and track is -2.5 Front, -1.7 Rear camber with neutral to barely toe out up front and barely toe in for the rear.
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04-22-2019, 04:23 PM | #6 |
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+1
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04-22-2019, 08:33 PM | #7 |
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I'll post pics of my NT01 running -3 to -3.5 camber with now abnormal wear at all. They are now spent.. Hot pressure is 33-34 and I'm using the entire tread.
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04-23-2019, 05:53 AM | #8 |
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That seems pretty odd as your camber is not even high. Are you sure the tire isn't rubbing the spring perch? Also a good rule of thumb is to run 1/32 toe out for every degree of camber to reduce scrub. I never really had inside tire wear issue on any car until I started running camber above 4 degrees.
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04-24-2019, 02:37 AM | #10 |
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Isn't it pretty hard to knock these cars out of alignment.?? I think you would have to hit a pretty deep hole to knock out of whack. These cars are built pretty tough to take it
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04-24-2019, 09:02 AM | #11 |
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04-24-2019, 12:05 PM | #12 | |
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Chris |
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04-24-2019, 03:56 PM | #13 |
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04-24-2019, 10:30 PM | #14 | |
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04-25-2019, 09:34 AM | #15 | |
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Hope it clears up your issue. I've got an appointment in a few weeks to install new tires on my track wheels and check my alignment with a race shop. I haven't looked at it since I had the car corner balanced last spring. Going to try RE71s this year vs. NT01s. Maybe my toe is out of whack driving in NYC. |
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04-25-2019, 02:33 PM | #16 | |
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Also, what’s your basis your selecting that new shop? Do they work on M4 GT4 or aftermarket converted m4 club racer? What are the lap times of cars they setup and how does it compare in their class. And do they have experience working with your suspension? Hope that you get it resolved and hope these questions are helpful |
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04-25-2019, 10:08 PM | #17 | ||
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Attached is a pic of my ride so you can judge the ride height for yourself. |
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04-26-2019, 12:41 PM | #18 | |
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Thanks for the pic, I have no basis for commenting. My f80 was stock and I just changed alignment. As for my current track car, i worked with a shop to use their class record holding spec Miata setup, and have a reference lap from a pro in my data logger that I’m using to bring myself down to the target time for my car. Im not allowed to change the setup until I can hit the target time. That would be my suggestion, so you don’t waste time chasing setup. It’s a bit harder with your car since it isn’t a “spec” car |
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04-27-2019, 04:37 AM | #19 | |
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04-27-2019, 08:39 AM | #20 | ||||
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