Oil Drain Plug spinning

[Evo13]

I'm going to try to make this as short as possible, also because I've never had this happen to me when doing oil changes on other cars, and due to the fact that I was stressing out for a day hoping oil isnt all over my driveway.

First time doing the oil change on my M3, after draining the oil and gave it sometime to drain. I went back to reinstall the oil drain plugs with the new copper washers. I ensured I didn't cross thread them as I started to hand tighten the drain plugs. But, when I started to torque them down, both drain plugs would always spin and never seem to tighten up. I tried to remove them and they just spun, re-tighten and nothing.

My buddy was with me and suggested I put some oil into the engine and see if there is any leaks. After putting all 9 quarts and repeatedly checking for leaks, it looked like they were holding up. Started the car to see if oil pressure would make them loosen up, and still all good. Went to Advanced Auto to dispose of the old oil, and took it easy on the drive over, car felt fine nothing out of the ordinary. Drove around more and a little harder on the car, parked put some cardboard underneath checked after work the next day, still holding up.

After looking around the internet, it seems that the oil drain plug or the oil pan could be stripped. I saw suggestions for a new pan, which I know is gonna be expensive. Or to time sert the oil pan and possibly never worry about stripping aluminum drain plug and or pan which seems like the better option but I've never done something like that.

I still made a long thread, but my question(s) is:

1) What is the best way to remove the potentially stripped oil drain plugs without doing more damage?
2) Time sert, anyone have experience with using it, if so how has it held up afterwards?

[Powashiftin]

Originally Posted by Evo13

1) What is the best way to remove the potentially stripped oil drain plugs without doing more damage?
2) Time sert, anyone have experience with using it, if so how has it held up afterwards?

1) Damage is done. Consider taking to a reputable shop for repair. They will do a time sert. I bought mine on amazon and did a DIY. See number 2.
2) yes but mine leaked after repair. I ended up doing rod bearings and a new oil pain

[Grip Addict]

I will be that guy no one wants to be.

I will confirm your oil pan plug threads are stripped on your oil pan.

To not beat yourself up, the pan is aluminium, any uga-tuga will F-it up or like if you are like me, you inherited someone else's F-up on the used market.

You have two options:
1. Expensive and time consuming, you can replace the oil pan.
2. Do something that I would only recommend if you are experienced with car maintenance/work and drill a new thread in your oil pan while it is on the car.

[roastbeef]

100% stripped.

[Evo13]

Originally Posted by Powashiftin

1) Damage is done. Consider taking to a reputable shop for repair. They will do a time sert. I bought mine on amazon and did a DIY. See number 2.
2) yes but mine leaked after repair. I ended up doing rod bearings and a new oil pain

Yeah I was considering doing rb in a month or so, so figured since the oil pan will be dropped I can either get a new one or like you said have them time sert it.

Originally Posted by Grip Addict

I will be that guy no one wants to be.

I will confirm your oil pan plug threads are stripped on your oil pan.

To not beat yourself up, the pan is aluminium, any uga-tuga will F-it up or like if you are like me, you inherited someone else's F-up on the used market.

You have two options:
1. Expensive and time consuming, you can replace the oil pan.
2. Do something that I would only recommend if you are experienced with car maintenance/work and drill a new thread in your oil pan while it is on the car.

Worst part is the previous owner only took it to the dealership, frustrating to know they could be the ones that messed it up.

I did just watch some videos on time sert and it honestly doesnt seem to be to complicated, just gotta be careful otherwise if I mess it up then I would have to get a new oil pan.

Originally Posted by roastbeef

100% stripped.

Also, is it safe to assume that it will hold and continue to drive normally but obviously monitor the oil and check for leaks?

[roastbeef]

No. If you're driving on the freeway and it gives up you could easily cause an accident and/or seize your engine.

[GORDON.M3]

Never. EVER. Drive with a loose drain plug screw. NEVER.

Do yourself and everyone around you a favor, just tow the car anywhere if you need to get it somewhere to fix.

[drrust]

I was in your position. I installed the drain plug with numerous wraps of Teflon tape (with a Hail Mary for every wrap &#128521 It held for a week or so until I took it to a shop to put a timesert in. The installation wasn't perfectly square so additional torque was needed to prevent drips. Ended up replacing the pan.

In your case, it's a question of what risk your willing to take. It may hold for a full oil cycle, no one on the internet can tell. Deansbimmer does sell remanufactured units with timeserts that have been prepped on a milling machine, to ensure proper installation.

If you're going to have a timesert installed I would look for a shop that specializes in thread repair. There was one near me, that I decided not to use, and regret it to this day. Apparently there is enough demand from stripped spark plug holes on aluminum threads for people to specialize in thread repair.

[lowkey_domm]

Have this same issue. I just did the first oil change myself last week and the rear oil drain bolt kept spinning I was so pissed off. I instantly knew I just inheritated someone elses fuck up. Personally it feels to be about 14-15 foot pounds of pressure no leaking at checked for leaks nothing. But will have to have this addressed most likely sooner rather than later...

[Evo13]

Originally Posted by lowkey_domm

Have this same issue. I just did the first oil change myself last week and the rear oil drain bolt kept spinning I was so pissed off. I instantly knew I just inheritated someone elses fuck up. Personally it feels to be about 14-15 foot pounds of pressure no leaking at checked for leaks nothing. But will have to have this addressed most likely sooner rather than later...

Keep an eye out for it, I was paranoid it might come out. I didnt have a leak but it did look wet near the drain bolts and I ultimately decided to just get a new pan and have my rod bearings done as well.

[lowkey_domm]

Originally Posted by Evo13

Keep an eye out for it, I was paranoid it might come out. I didnt have a leak but it did look wet near the drain bolts and I ultimately decided to just get a new pan and have my rod bearings done as well.

actually mine does look wet where the bolt is as well but I wrote it off thinking I just did the oil change and wiped around before putting the bolt back in.. by chance how much they charge for the oil pan replacement job?

[Evo13]

Originally Posted by lowkey_domm

actually mine does look wet where the bolt is as well but I wrote it off thinking I just did the oil change and wiped around before putting the bolt back in.. by chance how much they charge for the oil pan replacement job?

I put a large piece of cardboard underneath and checked few days after just to make sure there was no leaks and had none. Also, the oil pan replacement cost me $1,501.50.

[Mdriv3r]

Originally Posted by lowkey_domm

Have this same issue. I just did the first oil change myself last week and the rear oil drain bolt kept spinning I was so pissed off. I instantly knew I just inheritated someone elses fuck up. Personally it feels to be about 14-15 foot pounds of pressure no leaking at checked for leaks nothing. But will have to have this addressed most likely sooner rather than later...

Originally Posted by lowkey_domm

Have this same issue. I just did the first oil change myself last week and the rear oil drain bolt kept spinning I was so pissed off. I instantly knew I just inheritated someone elses fuck up. Personally it feels to be about 14-15 foot pounds of pressure no leaking at checked for leaks nothing. But will have to have this addressed most likely sooner rather than later...

You can buy a time sert kit. Google it for e92 m3 (e60 m5 will have this discussed also) and you will find the thread pitch. Make sure you get a tap wrench, cutting oil, red or blue thread locker, and the seat cutter. Also ise some petroleum jelly when cutting out the threads. That will catch the threads. You can also run a hose into the sump drain after and let it flow out, this can help get any shavings. The oil filter will catch the rest. So it it advisable to change oil early on a post time sert oil change.

The kit is available on amazon. I have one and used it some 5 or 6 years ago. It has held well. No leaks and no issues. I am also super charged now for almost 1.5 years. I did rod bearings awhile back. Everything looked fine. I still have the time sert kit in lol.

[Mdriv3r]

This is the exact kit I bought. Here is an amazon link


TIME-SERT Metric Kit M12 x 1.5 Part # 1215 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JK44D4..._wMMfFbPAV0SH0

[lowkey_domm]

Originally Posted by premo

This is the exact kit I bought. Here is an amazon link


TIME-SERT Metric Kit M12 x 1.5 Part # 1215 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JK44D4..._wMMfFbPAV0SH0

essentially in order to fix the stripped threads you're tapping out the old and replacing them which would change the size of the bolt right you would be inserting into the oil pan?

[Evo13]

Originally Posted by lowkey_domm

essentially in order to fix the stripped threads you're tapping out the old and replacing them which would change the size of the bolt right you would be inserting into the oil pan?

Also, inserting a steel sleeve into tapped and re-threaded bore (not sure if I am using the correct terminology). That way it will prevent the aluminum drain bolts from cross-threading or stripping out in the oil pan and hopefully prevent any issues in the future.

I have my original oil pan from when ACM replaced it and considering to time-sert it as well. Either keep it as a backup or sell, but once I get around to doing it I will figure it out.

[Mdriv3r]

Originally Posted by lowkey_domm

essentially in order to fix the stripped threads you're tapping out the old and replacing them which would change the size of the bolt right you would be inserting into the oil pan?

You will cut out the old threads and put the insert in. The outer threads will go into the area you cut out (there is a thread tapper you run after cutting it out). The inner part of the insert will be the same diameter and thread pitch as before. So you can now use the same stock oil plugs. The insert is stell and much stronger than the stock aluminum threads. So original mechanical strength will be returned and actually increased.

[Mdriv3r]

That kit also comes with multiple inserts, so you could do both, but I only did the rear one on the pan. My front sump drain is still fine, so I didnt mess with it. I suggest this, if you have a stripped thread. Dropping the oil pan is alot of work man. If you do that, get rod bearings done also and have them put on a new pan, since the pan comes off anyway to do that service.

[Mdriv3r]

Link to how to do it for Wurth (makers of
The time sert). Make sure you do a time sert and dont attempt a heli coil or anything like
that etc...

Watch this a couple times. I watched this before doing the time sert myself. Use petroleum jelly when drilling out the threads and especially with the tap wrench part. It will catch the shavings well. You can do this under the car with jack stands. FYI, dont use harbor freight jack stands they have a massive recall currently.

Just be confident and you'll get it done. I had minimal experience back then and did it without error. It led me on a great path too. I ended up super charging and doing a self install on my ESS kit. I have a thread for that, just look up my user. Good luck! Feel free to pm if you have detail questions oe just discuss them here.

[lowkey_domm]

Originally Posted by premo

Link to how to do it for Wurth (makers of
The time sert). Make sure you do a time sert and dont attempt a heli coil or anything like
that etc...

Watch this a couple times. I watched this before doing the time sert myself. Use petroleum jelly when drilling out the threads and especially with the tap wrench part. It will catch the shavings well. You can do this under the car with jack stands. FYI, dont use harbor freight jack stands they have a massive recall currently.

Just be confident and you'll get it done. I had minimal experience back then and did it without error. It led me on a great path too. I ended up super charging and doing a self install on my ESS kit. I have a thread for that, just look up my user. Good luck! Feel free to pm if you have detail questions oe just discuss them here.

haha this helped so much better explain it out, I've seen done this before but its been too long this helps!