[UPDATE: No longer recommended] Black gauge faces by Venoxy installed

[ashmostro]

I hated the low contrast grey dials that comes standard on this chassis, so I bought some black gauge faces from a brand called Venoxy, I think they might be in Poland.

Pretty good quality and result. Meets my requirements!

Happy to answer any questions.

[RugbyBro]

I love the grey for nostalgia, however, black does look sharp!

[NSX2M4]

I wish you could code the meter panels to be in classic amber when on at night. I know you can mod that in there, but I wouldn't go that far. I use the HUD more than anything on the car.

[hC1001]

Looks good. Throwback to older BMW instrument clusters.

Im jealous of your leather dash.

[ashmostro]

Update: once i drove my car the tach needle was way off, and I realized that you have to be very careful when removing the needles not to turn them, or when you reinsert them the zero point will be off.

After some trial and error, I found the most reliable way to get a perfect zero point on all of the dials (I am retentive) is to plug in the cluster with the cover screen off and the needles removed, turn on the ignition but do not start the motor or put it into drive-ready state, and then insert the needles with their tips held carefully at their respective zero points.

The reason this works is that when the ignition is turned on, the potentiometers all return to their zero points if they were moved previously while the cluster was removed.

Hopefully this helps someone in the future.

[Theruleslawyer]

How bad was the install? The video makes it look like you really have to strip down the cluster.

Fwiw if you email them the supposedly will do all sorts of crazy custom prints.

[ashmostro]

Kinda depends on your comfort level. The instructions are great, and yes you do need to strip down the cluster.

But to me, that's not the hard part - it's the whole being simultaneously delicate and forceful when removing the needles and the retaining rings on the gauge faces. Since I knew I was not going to ever go back to the grey dials I was not too concerned with scuffing them up. But if you intend to keep your originals for future reinstall you should know that it's pretty fiddly to not mar them up.

[ck_M3]

How did you keep the needles from making contact with the gauges? My tach makes contact and drags around 4k to 6k. Ordered a different set from Mashimarho because of this contact.

Doesn’t seem like anyway to avoid contact

[Danlnyc88]

Originally Posted by Theruleslawyer

How bad was the install? The video makes it look like you really have to strip down the cluster.

Fwiw if you email them the supposedly will do all sorts of crazy custom prints.

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Kinda depends on your comfort level. The instructions are great, and yes you do need to strip down the cluster.

But to me, that's not the hard part - it's the whole being simultaneously delicate and forceful when removing the needles and the retaining rings on the gauge faces. Since I knew I was not going to ever go back to the grey dials I was not too concerned with scuffing them up. But if you intend to keep your originals for future reinstall you should know that it's pretty fiddly to not mar them up.

Wanted to chime in as someone who has done this and swapped out with white needles as well:
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1974817

Tearing the cluster down is easy. The hack is to use two SPOONS to pop the needles out.

The hardest part for me was getting all the speed and rpm gauges aligned. Like OP said, the best way is to have the cluster attached without the shield and just press the start button. It will reset them back to 0. I cant even tell you the amount of times I took this in and out of the car cause I didn't like the way I had them aligned. Even 1mm is too much.

[Danlnyc88]

Originally Posted by ck_M3

How did you keep the needles from making contact with the gauges? My tach makes contact and drags around 4k to 6k. Ordered a different set from Mashimarho because of this contact.

Doesn’t seem like anyway to avoid contact

Does this on mine too. I complained with my first set and Venoxy owner swore it was the first time he's ever heard of this lol. Now I know it's not just me. I had him send me a 2nd set and it did the same thing. I ended up just pushing in the needle less than I normally would and it solved the problem. Cant even tell.

I think he's mad about it lol.

[ashmostro]

Those white needles look awesome! I'm going to look into that now...

As for the binding, I will keep an eye out for it. One thing that can help is pushing the central trim ring (the one around the needle, not the outer gauge trim ring) in deeper than the instructions recommend. This bows the gauges in a bit and keeps the needle from binding in the center, which is where I think the issue lies.

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by Danlnyc88

Wanted to chime in as someone who has done this and swapped out with white needles as well:
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1974817

what's the process for transferring the needles into the F80 housings? Are those four black dots plastic welds that need melting or trimming?

I'm very interested in doing this! Thanks!

[Danlnyc88]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

what's the process for transferring the needles into the F80 housings? Are those four black dots plastic welds that need melting or trimming?

I'm very interested in doing this! Thanks!

The needle is held in place by a small pin. Just gotta pop them off and push them back in. To change the colors, is a whole nother process though. Remember to use two spoons to pop them out! its so much easier than using a trim tool or whatever else you have.

Not sure what 4 black dots you're referring to but nothing on the cluster requires melting or trimming of any kind. Everything is either screwed on or held by tabs which all could be removed carefully.

[ck_M3]

Originally Posted by Danlnyc88

Does this on mine too. I complained with my first set and Venoxy owner swore it was the first time he's ever heard of this lol. Now I know it's not just me. I had him send me a 2nd set and it did the same thing. I ended up just pushing in the needle less than I normally would and it solved the problem. Cant even tell.

I think he's mad about it lol.

Man, happy to hear someone else had the same issues, but also sucky to know it happened to you too. I sent an email to them and have yet to hear back. Just doesn’t add up when you compare how OEM is built to these. I even though about trimming some of the gauge off to make it sit flat.

Also, I’m paranoid about the needle coming off if I hit a bump hard enough. Let’s see how Mashimarho’s kit will play out.

Appreciate you responding!

[ashmostro]

Welp, count me in as part of the club...

I sent the pic and an email to the store. Let's see how they respond.

Too bad. I really prefer the black. I'll probably go back to OEM if this can't be resolved (and I'm not feeling confident given the issues you folks have also had).

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by ck_M3

How did you keep the needles from making contact with the gauges? My tach makes contact and drags around 4k to 6k. Ordered a different set from Mashimarho because of this contact.

Doesn’t seem like anyway to avoid contact

Did the Mashimarho gauges solve this problem? On the face (haha) they look to be a very similar if not the same design (ie thick) as the Venoxy gauges.

Appreciate your feedback.

[ck_M3]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Did the Mashimarho gauges solve this problem? On the face (haha) they look to be a very similar if not the same design (ie thick) as the Venoxy gauges.

Appreciate your feedback.

I put in a custom order, so it may take a few weeks. It’s all black, except the tach which will be white with a red stripe.

Mashimarho claims it wouldn’t touch when I DM’d them on IG. Will report back once I get them

[ashmostro]

Ok I have some updated analysis on the Venoxy gauges and the issue with the tach binding at 4k+.

The problem is that the Venoxy gauges do not have a relief channel for the variable redline lights in the cluster. The OEM gauge faces are not flat on the backside like the Venoxy's are, and this is the root cause of the problem - it's a design flaw.


Until and unless Venoxy remedies this design issue, I cannot recommend this product... or any gauge face that has a flat rear profile design.

See pics for reference.

[ck_M3]

Here’s the response I got from them via email.

Note: the included instructions don’t state this anywhere. Also, I’ve already tried fiddling with how pressed on the needles should be

[ck_M3]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Ok I have some updated analysis on the Venoxy gauges and the issue with the tach binding at 4k+.

The problem is that the Venoxy gauges do not have a relief channel for the variable redline lights in the cluster. The OEM gauge faces are not flat on the backside like the Venoxy's are, and this is the root cause of the problem - it's a design flaw.


Until and unless Venoxy remedies this design issue, I cannot recommend this product... or any gauge face that has a flat rear profile design.

See pics for reference.

Came the same conclusion mate. With the design, there’s just no way to prevent the needles from making contact.

Could you include “Venoxy” in the title of this thread so it’s clearer for everyone else?

[ashmostro]

Good suggestion - done!

[DeezBluBallz]

Have had mine over 2 years, didn’t have any issues installing. 🤷🏽‍♂️