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12-28-2009, 04:24 AM | #1 |
Apex Everything!
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Drives: 2007 Honda S2000, 2017 GT350
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Cleaning your engine bay area?
The engine bay of my previous cars have always looked almost brand new even after 4 years. My 135i is not even a year old and it's covered in dust. My car is parked in underground parking 95% of the time so I'm not sure why it's so dirty under the hood. I could spend hours wiping every piece with a damp cloth, but I figured I'd ask in case anyone knew a better way?
I've heard of engine cleaning services, but aren't those generally for old greasy engines? All I have is dust everywhere. Just wondering what someone with experience would recommend. Thanks.
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12-28-2009, 04:39 AM | #2 |
AristoCat
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BMW sells a special product for that. I ordered it and will give it a try soon.
some guys in this forum advise using zaino products or other sealants to keep the engine and engine bay shiny!
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12-28-2009, 08:55 AM | #3 |
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In short using a light degreaser like the P21S Total Auto Wash to help clean the non-mechanical pieces. I also wipe down the non-mechanical vinyl, plastic, rubber, etc. with the 303 Aerospace Protectant.
For a complete write up check out our detailing guide. Let me know if you have any other questions. Greg @ DI |
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12-29-2009, 12:40 PM | #4 |
aka 1013MM
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damp cloth then 303 Aerospace Protectant is all i need for every 4 months or so...
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12-29-2009, 02:02 PM | #5 | |
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12-29-2009, 05:44 PM | #6 |
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I have used Greg's advise (as above) and my engine looks great! Check out the link to his website for directions. I got the P21S and a detailing brush from his site and it was a good purchase.
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12-30-2009, 12:38 AM | #7 |
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We had a dust storm a few months back and my engine bay has a blanket of yellow dust on it.
I would normally wipe with damp cloth as above once in a while but with this amount of dust in there it will take hours to get right. My question: is it safe to hose your engine bay down with a high pressure hose? |
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12-30-2009, 01:32 AM | #8 |
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Yeap. Done it many times. Depending on the pressure strength, just maintain 1 - 1.5 metres from any surface. That way you are just using the pressure blast and a bit of water mist to clean. The main cleaning action should be via your cleaning product and soft brush.
I always blow dry (via leaf blower) once I'm done, and then run the car for 5 mins whilst using a cloth to mop up any remaining water.
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02-04-2010, 02:19 AM | #11 | |
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02-08-2010, 11:56 AM | #13 |
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Protection of Electrical Components
The most important electrical components are sealed ‘water resistant’, that is to say against low pressure, water splashing encountered in the course of daily driving conditions. As long as you avoid directing a strong stream of water (or a pressure washer at close range) directly into these components, you will be fine. You need to cover various parts prior to using any cleaning products, sprays (water deterrent, formula 40(WD-40)) or water. • Alternator • Alarm Housing • Intercooler • Battery terminals (if not covered already) • Induction kit cone (if you have one) • Coil packs • Electronic control units (ECU) • On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) port • Air intake systems (exposed air filters) can be covered with plastic wrap and a rubber band Notes: 1. This is not an exhaustive list, nor is it marquee specific, if in doubt use a water repellent (WD-40) and exercise common sense 2. Tin foil is a better alternative to using cling-film for the alternator, alarm housing etc as it is easier to mould and has greater protection properties. I suggest you use a plastic bag for the induction kit and just wrap it tight over the end to stop any water ingress. 3. For the intercooler the best way to cover is to get a flat sheet of cardboard and just cut it to size so it fits and covers the fins. Cardboard will normally protect the fins for the duration of the washing. It will get soaked so discard after the wash. |
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