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      07-25-2011, 08:56 PM   #1
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For those who have done brake upgrades...

Were the pads a fairly straight-forward swap? Any challenges along the way?

Same for fluid - the standard bleeding method work just fine?

And finally, when shopping for pads, if the vendor doesn't have the 1M on the books, are they identical to M3 pads?
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      07-25-2011, 09:03 PM   #2
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Pads install is just the same as others. Remove retaining clip and 2 7mm allen bolts and caliper comes off. Re-installing the front retaining clip took both hands and my foot. Maybe there's an easier way to get that clip back on.

Fluid - standard bleeding method.

Pads are the same as M3. For reference, Fronts are FMSI 918 and Rears FMSI 919.
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      07-25-2011, 09:37 PM   #3
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Good stuff - thanks, Franklin. Looking to swap out the OEM pads before I go to the Glen in September.

Let the shopping commence
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      07-26-2011, 12:59 AM   #4
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And when you bleed the system to change the fluid, throw the cdv out! Just had it done on mine and shifting is much more straight forward than with this delay bs!
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      07-26-2011, 01:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EmmDrei View Post
And when you bleed the system to change the fluid, throw the cdv out! Just had it done on mine and shifting is much more straight forward than with this delay bs!
When you remove the CDV does the line into the valve plug straight into the line at the other end of the valve? Or does another line have to be put in place of the CDV?
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      07-26-2011, 04:04 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazz View Post
When you remove the CDV does the line into the valve plug straight into the line at the other end of the valve? Or does another line have to be put in place of the CDV?
The guys in the shop just had my cdv precision drilled. To my best knowledge, the line ends will not connect without something in the middle and since the cdv was there anyhow, they used that.

Edit: The cdv was actually cut (on a CNC cutting machine), not drilled.
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Last edited by EmmDrei; 07-26-2011 at 04:05 AM.. Reason: Just being more precise.
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      07-26-2011, 08:41 AM   #7
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If it's like the CDV on the 135 you can just punch out the restrictor with a screwdriver. The whole metal plate will pop out.
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      07-27-2011, 04:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franklin Joseph View Post
Pads are the same as M3. For reference, Fronts are FMSI 918 and Rears FMSI 919.
The lovely folks at Raceshopper are telling me that PFC-01's aren't available for the 1M - just the 06's.

He's clearly insane. Is there a typo in the numbers above? Anyone have a part number?
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      07-27-2011, 05:38 PM   #9
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PFC 0918.01.19.44 is the front pads. Rears i'm not sure the sequence, i didnt get rear pads.
I got mine from Bimmerworld.
Supposedly only the 01 is available.
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      07-27-2011, 06:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazz View Post
When you remove the CDV does the line into the valve plug straight into the line at the other end of the valve? Or does another line have to be put in place of the CDV?

The 1M CDV looks like the same setup as the 135i has. You can just remove the CDV and plug the two (old)lines together. Or... you can remove the restrictor jet from inside the CDV with a small screw driver or 3mm punch like I did.
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      07-28-2011, 01:35 AM   #11
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Thanks but a bit too late as I've ordered a modified CDV from Zeckhausen Racing. I can keep the stocker in case there is an issue and I need to change back.
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      08-02-2011, 04:11 PM   #12
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Would the Performance Friction users think I'd be uncomfortable (AKA stupid!) to drive the 400km from Toronto to The Glen and back with PFC-01's on the car? In the potentially cool September air?

I'm only used to Ferodo DS2500's, which are happy on the street in any weather. Just trying to decide if I should stick with something like the 2500's or an HP Plus, or go big with PFC-01's or Hawk DTC-70. Thoughts?
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      08-02-2011, 05:30 PM   #13
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you will be fine. I wouldnt tailgate anyone on the highway though.
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      08-02-2011, 06:23 PM   #14
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FYI there is no need to buy a modified CDV. All you have to do is remove it and plug the old lines into each other.
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      08-02-2011, 06:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blotto649 View Post
Would the Performance Friction users think I'd be uncomfortable (AKA stupid!) to drive the 400km from Toronto to The Glen and back with PFC-01's on the car? In the potentially cool September air?

I'm only used to Ferodo DS2500's, which are happy on the street in any weather. Just trying to decide if I should stick with something like the 2500's or an HP Plus, or go big with PFC-01's or Hawk DTC-70. Thoughts?

I've had race pads on my track for several years. I hate swapping. The pads will be less effective in cool temps, but as long as you have a decent pad level, it's not like the car won't stop at all... I agree with Franklin.. leave a little extra distance.. perhaps drag the brakes to warm then up before you get to the first stop sign/light and then go from there.

I have driven a car with Ferodo 2500s... not bad .. the 3000s WERE my favorite pad for awhiile until I got a set of the PFC-01s. A little more initial bite than the Ferodos and serious torque through the pedal...
great stopping ability... No massive initial bite like Hawk pads..... (sorry Hawk fans.. if you like Hawk.. then just keep buying hawk pads)....but instead they are much more linear. Highly recommended.
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      08-02-2011, 07:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blotto649 View Post
Would the Performance Friction users think I'd be uncomfortable (AKA stupid!) to drive the 400km from Toronto to The Glen and back with PFC-01's on the car? In the potentially cool September air?

I'm only used to Ferodo DS2500's, which are happy on the street in any weather. Just trying to decide if I should stick with something like the 2500's or an HP Plus, or go big with PFC-01's or Hawk DTC-70. Thoughts?
the 01 and dtc70 need very, very little warm up. they would defo brake much better than the 2500 for your trip. i routinely drive up to kuala lumpur (trackdays at sepang) from singapore and back on 01 and dtc70, for about 800km. they beat the ferodos hands down for these 800km trips. obviously expect rotor wear to be much higher though if you use them for street- unlike the 2500, they would kill your rotors...
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      08-31-2011, 01:29 PM   #17
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I'm looking at upgrading the pads and wouldn't mind some advice?

Having read up on brakes here:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=396763

I would say I'm looking for a daily driver / fast road pad, something which retains a good cold bite but with a higher temp threshold for fast road use and occasional track forays.

Anyone with similar needs able to recommend a pad? I remember talk of a track specific pad being available from BMW, anyone used them, what are their characteristics?

Thanks.
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      08-31-2011, 02:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Adjuster View Post
I've had race pads on my track for several years. I hate swapping. The pads will be less effective in cool temps, but as long as you have a decent pad level, it's not like the car won't stop at all... I agree with Franklin.. leave a little extra distance.. perhaps drag the brakes to warm then up before you get to the first stop sign/light and then go from there.

I have driven a car with Ferodo 2500s... not bad .. the 3000s WERE my favorite pad for awhiile until I got a set of the PFC-01s. A little more initial bite than the Ferodos and serious torque through the pedal...
great stopping ability... No massive initial bite like Hawk pads..... (sorry Hawk fans.. if you like Hawk.. then just keep buying hawk pads)....but instead they are much more linear. Highly recommended.
I drove to VIR and back (4 hours each way) with PFC01 pads on the car last weekend!

Neil
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      08-31-2011, 02:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnorbitz View Post
I'm looking at upgrading the pads and wouldn't mind some advice?

Having read up on brakes here:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=396763

I would say I'm looking for a daily driver / fast road pad, something which retains a good cold bite but with a higher temp threshold for fast road use and occasional track forays.

Anyone with similar needs able to recommend a pad? I remember talk of a track specific pad being available from BMW, anyone used them, what are their characteristics?

Thanks.

a good fast road pad (not race pads) would be something like the Hawk HPS or HP+ and its equivalent with other brands.
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      08-31-2011, 03:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franklin Joseph View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnorbitz View Post
I'm looking at upgrading the pads and wouldn't mind some advice?

Having read up on brakes here:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=396763

I would say I'm looking for a daily driver / fast road pad, something which retains a good cold bite but with a higher temp threshold for fast road use and occasional track forays.

Anyone with similar needs able to recommend a pad? I remember talk of a track specific pad being available from BMW, anyone used them, what are their characteristics?

Thanks.

a good fast road pad (not race pads) would be something like the Hawk HPS or HP and its equivalent with other brands.
Thanks Franklin, I'll look into those.
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      08-31-2011, 05:50 PM   #21
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Take the pfc 06 endurance pad. Little easier on the discs and very low wear rate.

I have them on order for my 1M.
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      08-31-2011, 05:57 PM   #22
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where did u order the pfc06?
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